June 22, 1895. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
679 
Oncidium insculptum. —This may bedescribed 
as one of the tall climbiDg Orchids, bearing numer¬ 
ous short lateral branches of flowers. The upper 
sepal is orbicular, but the other segments are oval, 
and all are wavy and of a rich brown with a yellow 
margin. Botanical Certificate. W. C. Walker, 
Esq. 
Sarcanthus Williamsoni. —The leaves of this 
species are terete, about 3 in. long, and coiled or 
recurved like a ram’s horn. The small and pretty 
flowers have white sepals and petals with a purple 
line along the centre. The three-lobed lip is purple, 
Botanical Certificate. Messrs. W. L. Lewis & Co., 
Southgate. 
Bifrenaria vitellina. —The flowers of this species 
are like those of a miniature Dendrobium, and borne 
in short racemes of three or four blooms. The 
sepals and petals are deep golden yellow with an 
orange-brown band along the back of the former. 
The side lobes of the lip are striped with brown lines, 
and there is a maroon blotch in the centre. Botanical 
Certificate. Messrs. W. L. Lewis & Co. 
Habenaria dilatata.—The stems of this 
terrestrial species are about 12 in. to 18 in. high, and 
bear each a long raceme of pure white flowers of 
moderate size. It is a native of North America, and 
most likely is hardy. Botanical Certificate. Mr T. 
S. Ware, Hale Farm Nursery, Tottenham. 
Masdevallia campyloglossa.— The flowers of 
this species are somewhat triangular in outline, and 
white with purplish nerves ; the sepals are gradually 
drawn out to slender points, but are scarcely tailed 
in the truer sense of the term. Botanical Certificate. 
R. I. Measures, Esq. (gardener, Mr. H. Chapman), 
Cambridge Lodge, Camberwell. 
Masdevallia gemmata. —The lateral sepals are 
united in somewhat boat-shaped form are deep 
brownish-purple ending in yellow tails § in. long. 
The upper sepal is ovate, but similar in colour to the 
rest. Botanical Certificate. R. I. Measures, Esq. 
Masdevallia Wageneriana. —The flowers of 
this neat and pretty little species are triangular in 
form, and pale, clear yellow with reflexed tails about 
2 in. long. Botanical Certificate. R. I. Measures, 
Esq. 
Masdevallia demissa. —The short tube of this 
species is bronzy-yellow. The lateral sepals are 
reflexed, and all are fuscous or dusky yellow ending 
in tails J in. to 1 in. long. Botanical Certificate. R. 
I. Measures, Esq. 
— - - 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove. 
As most of the plants should now be in vigorous 
growth, and will accordingly have filled their allotted 
space with roots, such subjects as it is not desirable 
to pot on must be given a little material stimulant. 
Recourse may therefore be had to the manure tub, in 
which a supply of cow manure should always be soak¬ 
ing. Carefully free this from all sediment, and put 
sufficient of the strained solution into each can of 
water to colour it nicely. Although cow manure is 
perhaps one of the mildest stimulants, and hence 
one of the safest that can be obtained, there is also 
a medium of strength beyond which it is not advis¬ 
able to go in giving it to plants. For climbers 
planted out in borders a good method of applying 
manure is to give a light dusting of Clay's Fertiliser 
or of Standen’s, forking this lightly in with a small 
hand-fork, and giving a good watering immediately 
after. 
Gymnogrammas. — These lovely stove Ferns, 
although they always excite our admiration when¬ 
ever we see them growing in anything like condition, 
do not usually meet with so much favour amongst 
the gardening fraternity as their beauty entitles 
them to. This is doubtless due to their somewhat 
touchy constitutions, a little too much attention with 
the watering-can often being responsible for the loss 
of many fine plants. During the winter and early 
spring months particularly they must be kept rather 
drier at the root than the majority of Ferns usually 
are, although this must not be taken to mean that 
they are to be allowed to suffer from lack of the 
necessary water. During the summer months, given 
fairly vigorous root action, it is often astonishing to 
see the quantity of water that some Gymnogrammas 
will take. In all cases, if they are accommodated 
in the stove amongst a general collection of plants, 
they must be given a corner to themselves, and due 
care must be taken that they are out of the way of 
the syringe ; for water dropping upon the foliage is 
very injurious, robbing as it does the plants of a 
great part of their beauty. At this season of the 
year snowy fly is usually more or less of a pest, and 
a sharp look-out must therefore be kept for its ap¬ 
pearance, for it is always a most troublesome insect 
to get rid of once it gets a hold. The best method 
of dealing with it, however, is to apply to the affected 
fronds a sponge damped with a solution of Lemon 
oil. To this the insects will adhere, and if proper 
caution is exercised not to rub the fronds no injury 
to the plants will follow. 
Selaginellas. —Numbers of these are very suit¬ 
able from their dwarfness as edging plants for the 
stages. The two most commonly met with are S. 
Kraussiana and its variety S K. aurea. Others 
which are also very useful for a like purpose are S. 
uncinata, S. Emileana, S. apus, and S. molliceps. 
These are all propagated very readily by cuttings, 
which, if taken now and inserted in shallow well- 
drained pans filled with light sandy soil, will root 
very quickly, and soon make nice plants. A stock 
of this kind of material never comes amiss. 
Pits and Frames. 
The bright sun will have kept things busy in this 
department, at least with regard to the giving of 
water, especially as it has been accompanied with such 
drying winds. Airing and shading, where required, 
also need strict attention, and thus it often happens 
that the gardener is apt to grumble and say that he 
has no time for anything else, and that his work is 
getting behindhand. 
Chrysanthemums. —These will necessarily be one 
of the chief considerations now, as it is quite time 
that they were in their floweriog pots. Where large 
numbers have to be potted, and the operation thus 
a lengthy one, a start is usually made by the begin¬ 
ning of June. For cultivators, however, who have 
only a comparatively few plants to operate on, the 
middle of the month is quite soon enough, starting 
with the strongest individuals first, and leaving the 
weakest ones until last. All plants which are ex¬ 
pected to come in before Christmas must be in their 
flowering pots by the end of June at the latest. 
Where potting is in full swing now a few remarks 
may be of service. The compost, of course, will 
have been carefully mixed. This should consist of 
two parts of good turfy loam to one of dried cow or 
horse manure, with the addition of a sprinkling of 
crushed bones, a little soot, and a goodly quantity of 
river sand. A bright look-out must be kept for 
wireworms, which are often present in the loam in 
greater or less numbers. Firm potting is an essential, 
as conducing to short-jointed growth. It is like¬ 
wise important that the pots are not filled too full of 
soil, a mistake that young gardeners often make. 
The level of the compost must be at least an inch 
and a half below the top of the pot. Some growers 
allow two inches, thus leaving room for a more 
liberal top-dressing bye and bye than would other¬ 
wise be possible. 
Newly Potted Chrysanthemums. — It may 
safely be said that one of the most critical stages in 
the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum is that re¬ 
presented by the two or three weeks immediately 
subsequent to potting. The plants should be stood 
outside under the shade of a wall or hedge. Morning 
and evening a light dewing over with the syringe 
must be given, whilst watering at the root must be 
conducted with the greatest caution, for if the soil is 
allowed to become sour a nd sodden good-bye to all 
hopes of real good blooms presently. Should the 
points of any of the shoots become attacked with 
green fly give a dusting of Fowler's Tobacco Powder, 
taking care, however, to wash this well out within 
an hour of its first application, for if allowed to re¬ 
main the young leaves are almost sure to be injured 
in some degree. 
Herbaceous Calceolarias. —Although seed may 
be sown at any time from the middle of May to the 
end of July, the present is quite the best time to 
do so, for while but little is gained by sowing too 
soon it is not wise to defer the operation for too 
long if good strong plants are required that shall 
have reached a good size by the time winter sets in. 
Drain some shallow pans thoroughly, having about 
a couple oi inches of fine light soil upon the surface, 
and filling the pan up to within an inch of the top. 
Carefully level the soil, pressing it down with any flat 
surface, and on this sprinkle the seed, which will 
need very careful handling, as it is very minute. A 
little fine sand may then be thinly shaken upon the 
seed to keep it in its place, a sheet of glass placed 
over it, and the pan stood in an unheated frame, 
keeping the latter close, and shading whenever the 
sun is bright. 
Double Primulas.— If these were earthed up or 
packed around with sphagnum and sand, as advised 
a few weeks previously, they should now have made 
roots sufficient to warrant their being divided. The 
separation must, however, be conducted judiciously, 
for the newly formed roots are very tender and ex¬ 
tremely liable to injury if roughly handled. The 
young plants, after being severed from each other, 
must be potted off singly according to their size. 
As a rule forty-eights will be found a handy pot to 
use. The compost should consist of equal parts of 
good fibrous loam, from which much of the dust has 
been shaken, and leaf soil, which must likewise be 
examined before using to see that it is free from 
fungoid growths. To this may be added cow manure, 
dried and rubbed through a sieve, and a goodly 
quantity of sharp sand. After potting the plants 
may be kept rather close, and, indeed, they never 
take kindly to too much exposure, as they like rather 
warmer treatment than do the single-flowered 
Chinese Primulas.— A. S. G. 
* 
East Indian House. —The principal work in this 
division is keeping up a nice, genial, growing at¬ 
mosphere, by frequently damping the walls and 
stages, and by pouring water on the paths, &c.; and 
during the hottest part of the day of such dry times 
as we are now getting it will be advisable to damp 
the paths outside the houses, also the blinds. This 
helps to keep the temperature down inside. When 
going round for the last time at night, sprinkle the 
walls and floors with manure water, such as is made 
from drainings from the cow sheds or stable. The 
ammonia given off during the night will much benefit 
the plants without leaving any unpleasant smell in 
the morning, besides helping to keep down insects. 
This may be done in all divisions. 
Cattleya House.—Now that the Cattleya 
Mendelii, Laelias, &c., are over we shall keep this 
house somewhat close and moist, so as to induce the 
plants to break away freely, and thereby lay the 
foundation for another season. Some, as I men¬ 
tioned in the last calendar, will require re-potting, 
whilst others will go round again if simply top- 
dressed. Allow the plants a little time to plump 
up after being hard flowered before disturbing 
them ; a good sponging will help them to do this. 
Laelia grandis tenebrosa.— This promises to 
be a most useful free-flowering Orchid, and of easy 
cultuite—in all imported plants (if they have any old 
leaves) making flowering growths the first season. 
There is not a great variety seemingly amongst them, 
but when you do get a good one it is grand. 
Treatment the same as L. purpurata suits it well. 
Cool House : Disas.— The spikes of this lovely 
cool house Orchid are well advanced, and should be 
helped by weak doses of manure-water. Guano is 
good for them, but where procurable I would rather 
use weak cow manure, it is so much cooler, and 
seems to be just what they require. Thrips' and 
green fly are rather troublesome if allowed to get a 
hold, and will soon weaken the plants. A little 
tobacco powder dusted into the heart of the growths 
will keep them in check if taken in time. 
Epidendrum vitellinum majus.— This pretty 
little Mexican Epidendrum when well grown and 
well flowered is an object which catches the eye at 
once, on account of its colour. Whilst it enjoys the 
shade and moisture of the Odontoglossum house, it 
seems to require the extra heat and air of the inter¬ 
mediate house, so that perhaps the best place is a 
shady end of the Mexican house. Peat and sphagnum 
in equal parts we use, with plenty of drainage, as 
it will take a lot of moisture at the roots when 
growing. 
The night temperature should range in the warm 
house from 70° at night to 808 by day ; Cattleya 
house, 65° at night, with a rise of io° or 15 0 during 
the day ; cool house, 50 s1 at night.—C. 
The National Chrysanthemum Society’s Year Book 
for 1895 —Edited by Mr. Harman Payne F.R.H.S. Price, is. 
post free, is. i^d. from the Publisher of the Gardening 
World, i, Clement’s Inc, Strand, W.C. 
