July 13, 1895. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
727 
amateurs, is to take out a trench as if for Celery, in 
any position somewhat shaded from the sun, filling 
in the same firmly with horse droppings (which have 
been prepared by fermenting) to within two inches 
of the level. Then insert pieces of spawn, two 
inches deep and nine inches apart, and cover with 
the soil taken from the trench. In about six or seven 
weeks the Mushrooms should appear. It will be as 
well to cover over with straw to prevent the soil 
becoming too dry. Beds of this description may be 
depended on to give a good return during the autumn 
months. 
Peas. —The long period of dry weather is now con¬ 
siderably affecting the Pea crop. Where time can be 
spared it will give much aid to the filling of the pods 
and prevention of thrips to syringe the rows over 
every evening. Continue the sowing of seed, draw¬ 
ing lines 4 in. deep, well watering the rows before 
proceeding. Duke of Albany may still be sown ; but 
for any later batches an earlier variety should be 
used, of which Wm. Hurst or Cannell’s English 
Wonder are very good. 
Carrots. —This will be found an excellent time to 
sow a large breadth of Carrots of the Horn type. 
The value of the crop resulting from the sowing 
cannot well be over-estimated, as the Carrots will be 
fit and sweet at a time when the greater part of Peas, 
Beans, etc., will be over ; a southern position and 
where they can be covered with litter or leaves will 
suit them best in the event of frost. Where the Carrot 
fly is troublesome and the main crop damaged by 
the ravages of this pest, it will be well to sow an extra 
width to make good the loss, as after this period 
young roots are rarely damaged. Sutton's Early 
Gem is one of the best to sow at this date. 
Runner Beans. —The latest sowing may now be 
made, and if the autumn proves favourable they will 
be valuable, as with the great heat the earlier sowings 
will be over somewhat earlier than usual. The 
climbing French Bean, Sutton’s Tender and Trueis a 
variety that has much to recommend it, being 
extremely tender and very prolific .—James Gibson, 
Devonhurst, Chiswick. 
-- 
VINES. 
Early houses from which the fruit has been cut 
may be thrown wide open and left so day and night, 
so as to allow a free passage of air about the foliage. 
A good syringing occasionally will do no harm, as it 
will serve to cleanse the leaves from any dust or dirt 
that may have settled upon them, as well as to keep 
down red spider which often makes its appearance 
at this stage. It will be very necessary to see that 
all the borders are kept well supplied with water, 
and although manurial stimulants must not be given 
anything like so frequently as when the canes were 
carrying crops of fruit, an occasional application will 
do good. Should the laterals evince a tendency to 
elongate, they may be suffered to do so to a moderate 
extent as this serves to prevent too early maturation 
cf the wood. Some cultivators make the mistake of 
imagining that once the fruit has been cut the Vines 
may be allowed to take care of themselves, and that 
no further trouble is necessary. The canes are as a 
consequence allowed to mature their wood very 
much sooner than they ought to, the buds as a 
natural result lack the strength and the plumpness 
thatshould characterise those borne by healthy Vines 
and thus harm is done. 
Shanking. —Very few indeed are the Vineries in 
which this does not take place to a greater or less 
extent. In some cases only a few berries will be 
affected, in others whole bunches w ill be completely 
spoiled. The term is employed by gardeners to 
indicate the drying off or withering of the footstalk 
of the berries. The connection being thus inter¬ 
rupted the berries themselves acquire an exceedingly 
acid taste and neither ripen nor colour properly. So 
perplexing is this disease that it is often very hard to 
trace it to its true source, and much discussion as to 
the special conditions that cause its development has 
taken place at different times. Perhaps one of the 
most fruitful causes of shanking is the unsatisfactory 
condition of the rcots ; for in many instances Vines 
which have been badly given to this habit have been 
found upon examination to have a portion of their 
roots in cold, wet and uncongenial subsoils, a state 
of things which when remedied by the renovation 
of the border has effectually put a stop to the 
progress of the malady. Other conditions, however, 
which will often account for the presence of this 
perplexing disease are undue strain upon the Vines, 
arising perhaps from systematic overcropping, 
sudden changes in the temperature, fluctuations 
in the water supply or the removal of too large a 
quantity of foliage at one and the same time ; in fact 
any course of treatment or rather mis-treatment 
which allows of the plants receiving violent checks. 
During the growing season it is manifest that the 
border cannot be meddled with, and hence for 
shanking caused by the presence of the roots in 
unsuitable earth strata there can be no immediate 
remedy, but care can be taken to prevent the 
development of the complaint by reason of any other 
of the conditions previously stated. Where berries 
are observed to be thus aftected there is nothing for 
it but to cut them out, for no matter how long they 
are left once the footstalk has gone wrong they will 
never ripen. 
Peaches. —As the mid-season crops of these ripen 
off the same attention to prevent their being spoiled 
by falling must be paid them as was recommended 
in the case of the early ones. Air such houses well 
and freely, and where leaves are observed to be 
shading the fruit push them on one side; for the 
Peach needs the full benefit of the sun’s rays to 
develop properly its delicious flavour. Any mal¬ 
formed or undersized fruits that are not fit to appear 
upon the dessert table may be utilised for culinary 
purposes, where they will serve the same purpose as 
the better shaped ones, and those of larger size. 
For houses that have been stripped of their fruit a 
similar course of treatment advocated for Vines in a 
like condition will be necessary, with the exception 
that the syringings instead of being intermittent and 
occasional must be regularly conducted. The same 
free buoyant atmosphere and nicely moist borders 
are however essential.—. S. G. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
In this department the small fruit season is now in 
full swing. At this time of the year a careful 
watch has to be kept upon the doings of the feathered 
denizens of the woods and lanes, which seem to 
congregate around our gardens from all parts in 
countless numbers in search for spoil. The netting 
of Cherries, Currants, and Gooseberries must, 
therefore, be seen to if it is desired that the gardener 
shall reap the fruit of his labours, otherwise the 
birds will soon do the fruit picking for him. In 
gathering fruit of any kind for preserving it is very 
necessary that both trees and fruit should be as dry 
as possible, otherwise the preserves made from it 
will not keep for any length of time. 
Strawberries.— In most establishments of any 
size it is usual to force a number of plants to afford 
fruit during the spring months, and where this is the 
case no time must be lost in getting the runners 
layered, if, indeed, this has not already been done. 
The earlier the runners are pegged down the better, 
for along season of growth is thus afforded them 
wherein to make good, strong crowns that shall 
produce an abundance of good fruit by and bye. 
Small sixty pots are the handiest size to use. These 
may be filled with any ordinary soil, making it fairly 
firm. A supply of strong pegs some 3 in. in length 
must also be on hand, and the layerer’s stock in 
trade is complete. The best and strongest runners 
alone should be selected, taking a few from each 
plant, for these will soon root and grow very quickly 
into excellent material. The operation is simplicity 
itself, and may be performed by any ordinary garden 
labourer as easily as by an expert. A small hole 
should be made in the soil in the pot with the 
fingers to receive the base of the plant, which must 
then, by means of one of the pegs before referred 
to, be fastened securely in its place, neatly levelling 
the soil again. The pots should be stood quite 
level, and if possible should be placed together in 
batches, for by this means the task of watering is 
rendered very much easier. During the bright 
weather frequent attentions with the watering-can 
will be necessary, the best plan being to wait until 
evening and then to give them a good overhead 
watering by means of a rose can. Not only are 
these plants useful for forcing purposes, but they 
also constitute the very best material for replenish¬ 
ing old plantations out-of-doors or for making new 
ones. It is in this way that very many good 
growers obtain their plants for so doing, being of 
opinion that the increased strength and vigour of 
the material thus obtained more than compensates 
for any little extra trouble there maybe in procuring 
it. Where, however, the gardener is short-handed 
and time a correspondingly valuable consideration, 
enough of plants for making outside plantations may 
be procured by allowing the runners to root them¬ 
selves, lifting them and planting them out on a pre¬ 
pared border or vacant plot of ground as soon as 
they have made a sufficiency of roots to warrant so 
doing. 
Seldom indeed is it that the gardener is called upon 
to pass through a more trying period than the last 
three months or so has been. During that time we 
have had little or no rain to speak of, at least in 
districts in and around London. In other parts of 
the country they have been visited by heavy thunder¬ 
storms, accompanied by copious falls of rain. Here, 
however, the little that we have had has been a 
veritable drop in a bucket and does not seem to have 
made any impression on the parched and thirsty soil. 
Not only is the grass completely scorched up but 
many of the deciduous trees are commencing to shed 
their leaves as if it were autumn instead of the 
middle of summer. Where a good supply of water 
is to be had the heaviest work therefore will consist 
in giving things that are suffering from the drought 
as good a soaking as time will permit. Not only 
must the flower beds and herbaceous border be 
looked after in this respect, but the closest attention 
will be necessary in the case of trees or shrubs 
which were shifted or planted during last autumn or 
spring ; for the lack of rainfall cannot fail to be most 
injurious to them. For larger trees that need water 
it is the best plan to let a steady stream of water 
from the hose run upon them all night. For water¬ 
ing any turf such as that upon tennis courts or 
bowling greeDs, nothing is better than to affix a long 
piece of iron tubing perforated along its entire length 
with small holes to the hose. A gentle shower bath 
is the result and this, if continued for a few hours, 
cannot fail to be of great service to the parched-up 
turf. 
Roses.—T he gales of wind that we have ex¬ 
perienced during the past two weeks have occasioned 
a good deal of damage amongst the standard Roses, 
particularly where those with heavy heads have not 
been securely fastened to stout stakes they have 
been blown about terribly. Fastenings which have 
become untied or broken must be seen to without 
delay, as well as additional stakes given to those 
requiring it. 
Budding Roses. —Once more has the season for 
budding come upon us, and Rose growers will be all 
agog getting their buds in. As soon as the bark will 
lift readily operations may commence. This year 
owing to the drought the bark is somewhat tardy in 
getting fit. It is a good plan to give Briers a good 
soaking of water at the root two or three days before 
budding is commenced, as this will assist them 
greatly, the bark lifting much more easily where this 
precaution has been taken. It is also highly impor¬ 
tant that the buds although not too far advanced 
must be plump and well matured. It is not 
desirable to take them from soft sappy shoots, for 
these seldom give good buds. Growths which have 
borne flowers are usually the best for furnishing good 
buds that can in most cases be depended on. Make 
the cuts clean but only deep enough to cut well 
through the bark, for if made deeper than this, 
harm will result. Meanwhile the buds may be kept 
fresh by having the ends of the shoots from which 
they are to be taken placed in a can of water. In 
preparing them, a little care is necessary to see that 
the soft tender skin is not injured, and that all the 
wood is removed from them before inserting them in 
the places prepared for the same. In tying also it is 
important to observe that the ligatures do not press 
with undue force for this is likewise injurious. 
Tying in is simply meant to hold the bud in its place 
and to keep the lips of the wound together when 
nature will do the rest. 
The National Chrysanthemum Society's Year Book 
for 1895.—Edited by Mr. Harman Payne F.R.H.S. Price, is. 
post free, is. ijd. from the Publisher of the Gardening 
World, i, Clement’s Inn, Strand, W.C. 
