August 17, 1895. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
807 
TIE PLANT iOlSIS. 
The Stove. 
For the next few weeks air must be very plentifully 
admitted, in order to impart additional firmness to 
the foliage, so that it shall stand a good chance of 
passing through the winter with comparatively little 
injury. The shading, moreover, will not need to be 
kept on so long as before, as a little exposure to the 
sun rather earlier in the afternoon will materially 
assist in the ripening process. 
Crotons. —Specimen plants of these should now 
be in the pink of condition, and having filled their 
pots with roots will need abundant supplies of water. 
Keep a sharp look-out for the appearance of thrips, 
brown scale, and mealy bug, which will very soon 
disfigure the leaves and spoil the appearance of the 
plants. Where it is necessary to increase the stock 
cuttings may be taken at any time. Good healthy 
shoots if taken now, firmly fixed in a small well 
drained pot filled with sandy soil, and plunged in a 
warm propagating frame, will root very readily, and 
will make nice stuff of a handy size before winter 
sets in. As it is important that the cutting should not 
be disturbed, any disturbance greatly retarding the 
rooting process, and as the long leaves are ex¬ 
ceedingly apt to lop about and to become caught in 
surrounding objects, a small neat stake should be 
placed in each pot, and to this the whole of the 
leaves may be attached. 
Dracaenas.— Where eyes of these, taken from the 
stems of old plants, have been plunged in a brisk 
bottom heat in cocoanut fibre a few weeks ago, they 
will by this time have made one or two small leaves. 
This, of course, means a corresponding activity in 
the way of roots, and, therefore, the young plants 
should be lifted out of the fibre, from which the 
delicate rootlets can readily be separated without 
fear of injury, and potted up into small pots. Do 
not pot too firmly, however, and use a light soil 
largely composed of peat or leaf mould with plenty 
of sand. Keep the little plants on a shelf near the 
glass, and dew them over with the syringe twice or 
thrice a day. 
Miscellaneous potting. —If growth has been 
exceptionally vigorous throughout the summer it 
may well happen that many of the younger plants 
have filled their pots with roots, and are calling out 
for more room. Now while it is not at all advisable 
to shift to any great extent, a little more room may 
be given them if they appear to need it. In all 
cases, however, avoid large shifts. Other subjects 
that are in an unhealthy condition, and the soil sour 
and sodden, must be turned out of their present 
quarters, as much of the old soil removed as possible, 
and then potted up into as small pots as will comfort¬ 
ably contain them. In the case of these last men¬ 
tioned subjects, it will be advisable to remove them 
to a warm pit where they can be kept closer than is 
possible in the large stove. Whether the quantity 
of potting to be done is little or much, it must be 
seen to without delay, for it is a great mistake to 
disturb the plants too late in the autumn. 
Conservatory. 
Here it will be necessary in order to keep up the 
display, to have a turn out now and again to get rid 
of the old stuff, and to make room for younger or 
later plants which may be in readiness. Old Fuchsias 
that have got too shabby may be taken out and stood 
in a corner of the frame-yard, where they will receive 
plenty of light and air. The water supply may be 
considerably curtailed, but the necessary fluid must 
on no account be entirely withheld. Cuttings that were 
struck in the spring will now have made nice little 
stuff in 32-sized pots that will flower away well on 
on into the autumn. 
Sponging. —In a house occupied by plants in 
flower, it is obviously impossible to syringe, and thus 
upon the fronds of the hardier Palms and other 
foliage plants to be found in the department during 
the summer months, a deposit of dust and dirt is 
usually to be seen. The leaves of Oranges are 
especially very much inclined to get dirty. A useful 
and inexpensive washing solution may be made by 
dissolving a piece of soft soap about the size of a 
walnut in a couple of gallons of tepid water ; and 
whenever there is a little time to spare, the leaves of 
such plants should be carefully gone over and 
sponged. In the case of large specimens in pots, or 
of those that are planted out, it is obvious that it 
will be impossible to shift them, but smaller plants 
may be taken outside and given a good washing 
with the syringe. 
Plants for edging.— Subjects of dwarf or 
pendant habit are of great value as material 
for putting a finishing touch to the stages, and by 
judicious utilisation of a few suitable plants, some 
very pretty effects may be obtained. The delightful 
little Isolepis gracilis has no equal in this respect. All 
it wants is plenty of water, and given that it is always 
in condition. A good stock of it should be kept in 
hand, and this can easily be ob'ained by dividing up 
the plants as they get too large. Small pots of 
Adiantum cuneatum, A. diaphanum, and some of the 
varieties of A. Capillus-Veneris are excellent. Very 
pretty also are Liriope (Ophiopogon) graminifolia 
and Ophiopogon Jaburan variegatus. Very charm¬ 
ing effects may also be obtained by means of ivy 
leaved Pelargoniums suffered to hang over the edges 
of the stages in which position they look very nice. 
Campanula isophylla and its beautiful variety alba 
may be treated in the same way, and are certainly 
handsome and useful plants. 
Campanula Vidalli.—A very ornamental plant 
this, although, sooth to say, one but comparatively 
infrequently met with. Still, it is well worthy a 
place in the conservatory, as it has a striking 
appearance, and is very distinct from the rest of the 
Campanulas. The flowers are large, pure white in 
colour, almost wax-like in consistency, and are 
produced on long loose racemes from one to two 
feet in length. At the present season it comes in 
very useful in the conservatory. 
Pits and Frames. 
Mignonette.— Much as this sweet-scented 
favourite is prized during the summer when it can 
be obtained from the outside garden, it is in even 
greater request through the dull dark days of winter, 
both for cutting from, and for furnishing purposes as 
a pot plant. No time should therefore be lost in 
sowing a batch of it to supply the winter demand. 
Thirty-two sized pots are the handiest to use. 
These should be cleaned, well drained, and filled 
three parts full of soil, the upper layer being rather 
fine. On this, the seed should be sprinkled thinly, 
covering afterwards with a very shallow layer of fine 
sandy soil. The seed pots may be stood in a cold 
frame, and kept near the glass. Shading during hot 
sunshine will, as a matter of course be essential, to 
prevent excessive evaporation of moisture from the 
soil before germination, and afterwards when the 
little plants make their appearance to preserve them 
from injury. 
When the seedlings have attained to a sufficient 
size to enable the operator to decide which are the 
best plants, thinning out must be resorted to, 
leaving only three to a pot. This will be quite 
sufficient if properly looked after to ensure a good 
pot full of the coveted flower. The best Mignonette 
we ever saw was treated as follow's. One plant only 
was left, and this was early pegged down and 
allowed to run all round the pot, pegging it down at 
intervals. When it had completed the circuit, the 
top was pinched out and the laterals suffered to 
develop which they did in a remarkable way, each 
shoot bearing a wonderfully fine spike. As varieties 
for culture in pots, we should recommend Mile's 
Hybrid Spiral, Machet, Crimson King and 
Caraway’s White. We have tested them thoroughly 
and have always succeeded in obtaining good 
results from their culture. 
Freesias.— Once more has the time arrived when 
the bulbs of these lovely Cape plants must be started 
growing. After flowering in the spring, they will 
have been consigned to a cold frame to complete 
their growth, water being withheld after they had 
reached a fairiy advanced stage. The first considera¬ 
tion, therefore, will be to turn them out of their 
pots, and to look the soil over very carefully, taking out 
the bulbs. These must be sorted according to their 
size, the larger bulbs being kept by themselves. 
The smaller ones may be planted pretty thickly in 
shallow pans, as although they will not flower 
during the ensuing season, they will make good stuff 
' for the next. For the flowering bulbs a compost of 
loam and leaf soil with plenty of silver sand should 
be used, and after they have been potted up 
they may be removed to a cold frame and covered 
with ashes until growth has fairly commenced. 
There are supposed to be several forms included in 
in the genus, but they come exceedingly close to 
each other. F. refracta is white, with the lower 
segments of the perianth more or less heavily 
blotched with orange. F. r. alba, the one that 
finds the most favour of any, perhaps, bears a pure 
white flower minus the orange blotchings, that 
characterise the type. F. Leichtlinii bears yellow 
or creamy-yellow flowers, and should also be grown 
for the sake of variety. 
Roman Hyacinths. —No time must be lost in 
getting these from the bulb merchant and in potting 
them up. They can now be obtained at com¬ 
paratively little cost, and advantage should be taken 
of this to grow large quantities, as they are so useful, 
and indeed indispensible, in the making of wreaths, 
bouquets, etc., during the winter months, when 
white flowers are at a premium. The same soil as 
advocated for the Freesias will suit admirably. 
From three to five may be placed in a 32-pot, 
according to the size of the bulbs. After potting 
they must be covered over with ashes or cocoanut 
fibre, as in the case of the Freesia, to encourage 
root action. 
Show and Decorative Pelargoniums. —As 
soon as the wood on the old plants has 
acquired the requisite degree of maturity cutting 
back must be performed. Use a sharp knife and 
cut the shoots clean back to within two or three eyes 
of last year’s growth. The plants may then be 
placed in a cold frame and kept fairly close, plying 
the syringe about them until they commence to 
break, when they will be ready for potting up 
Cuttings of the firm, well-matured wood will root 
very readily if inserted in light sandy soil, and placed 
in a gentle heat. They will strike also if accorded 
no other shelter than that of a cold frame, although 
we prefer to give them rather warmer treatment, as 
we have invariably discovered that much time is 
gained by so doing.— A. S. G. 
--H«—— 
East India House.— It is quite a pleasure to see 
the sphagnum moss in such fine condition on all the 
plants where used. During the drought it was with 
difficulty kept in anything like a growing state, 
owing to the use of hard water, but since the rain, 
all has been changed—so much so that in many cases 
we have had to go over the plants pressing the moss 
down, so luxuriant has it become. 
Phalaenopsis. —The weather of late has been 
very suitable to the moth Orchids. On all sides 
they look wonderfully well. Caution, however, 
should be exercised so as not to get the leaves too 
sappy by over-shading and insufficient air, or the 
dreaded spot is sure to put in an appearance. The 
moss should not be allowed to grow too high up 
round the collar ; where this is so press it down and 
sprinkle a few broken crocks over it to keep it 
in position. 
Saccolabiums.— Generally speaking these do best 
when grown in baskets suspended from the roof. 
They do not perhaps make such long leaves as when 
grown further away from the glass, but they flower 
more freely, and will go through the winter better. 
Aerides. —These require the same treatment as 
Saccolabiums, but as most of them run taller, they 
are best grown in pots and placed on the stages. 
Live moss alone grows them well, but we like to first 
put a layer of peat, and then fill in with moss with 
which is mixed small bits of crock. 
Cattleya House.— Without Cattleya aurea this 
division would be dull indeed, for C. gigas has gone 
out of flower and is asking for some fresh material 
for the new roots, which are pushing in quantity 
from the fresh made upgrowths to take hold of. 
There is no better time than now for re-potting this 
fine Cattleya. They establish themselves in next to 
no time. Use the peat, which should be of the best, 
in a moderately moist state, and no water will be 
required for at least a fortnight, and then only just a 
sprinkle over to keep the plants from shrivelling. If 
kept too wet the roots will turn black at the points, 
and later the plants will turn black also, a contin¬ 
gency to be avoided. 
Cool House.—A large quantity of plants in this 
division will now require attention as regards 
potting, and as the weather is cool and moist every¬ 
thing should be done to forward the work. The 
plants will then soon get hold of the new material 
and be in a fit state to pass successfully through the 
coming winter. — C. 
