UPLAND SHOOTING. 
247 
prefer the bosom, as I believe it is the fashion of these modest 
days to term the white meat. 
For the benefit of what the French are pleased to call amphi- 
tryons, the excellent men who are rich enough to give good 
dinners, and of the happy men who are allowed to eat them, 
I will add, that red wine is the thing with game of all kinds. 
The right thing of all is Chambertin, or clos de Vougeot / but, 
in default of these, a sound Lajitte or Latour claret is excel¬ 
lently well in place. Champagne is not the thing in the least; 
and, for those who aspire to feed themselves or their friends 
creditably, without aiming at the expense of the costly French 
red wines, allow me to suggest, that a glass of good gold sherry 
is perfectly allowable with game. Except at a ball supper, no 
one, except counter-jumpers, ever think of champagne, beyond 
one tumbler with the roti. 
The next thing to killing your game handsomely, after find¬ 
ing it gnostically, is undoubtedly knowing how to set it on the 
table, for the benefit of your friends, in perfection, and with the 
proper accessories; and a hint or two on this subject may be 
pardoned, even in a work on field sports,—especially where 
such abominations are practiced, as eating Snipe and Woodcock 
high, drawing the trail, and broiling them; and eating currant, 
or plum jelly, with roast Grouse; or cranberries with venison. 
Nothing in my eyes is more contemptible, than the man who 
cannot rough it upon occasion,—who cannot dine heartily, and 
with a relish, on a bit of cold salt pork, and a crust of bread, 
when he can get nothing better; but nothing is more stupidly, 
or hopelessly savage, than the man who does not care what he 
eats. 
In the code of game-cookery, the gridiron is an article of the 
kitchen 'prohibited , unless in the case of a venison steak, a Bear 
chop, or a Wild Duck. To broil a Quail, or a Grouse, much 
more a Snipe, or a Woodcock, ought to be made—like frying a 
beefsteak—death without benefit of clergy. 
