FLOWER 
SEEDS 
GROWING FLOWERS FROM SEED 
For best results, use a shallow box filled with light, rich soil not likely to bake or form a crust when the surface dries. Tamp 
firmly, so that the level is about half an inch below the top of the box. Make shallow furrows crossways, about an inch apart. Very 
fine seeds, like Petunias and Portulacas, need merely marks; large seeds, like Scabiosas, Lupines, and Four-o’Clocks, should have 
furrows a half-inch deep. Sow the seed thinly in the rows, and label each row. Sift fine soil, mixed with sand, over the seeds, covering 
them to the soil-level. Then press the surface with a board or a brick, and water with a very fine nozzle or sprinkle the surface with a 
whisk-broom dipped in water. Cover the box with a sheet of glass and newspaper, and set it in a warm position, watching from day 
to day to see that the surface does not get dry or become soggy. 
As soon as the seedlings break through the ground, the newspaper must be removed and the box set where it will receive the largest 
amount of sunlight. When the first leaves are fully formed, remove the glass or tilt it to admit air; when the seedlings are all up 
and gathering strength, take off the glass. 
Special care will be needed in watering. If too much water is used, the seedlings are likely to damp off; if not enough, they will 
not grow rapidly. 
While the seeds are growing, prepare other boxes into which to transplant them. Fill with light, rich soil and mark the surface 
into 2-inch squares, and when the seedlings have acquired their second set of leaves, transplant them. They will need shading until 
they take hold of the ground. After that, give them plenty of light and water until it is warm enough to set them outdoors. 
If you have a coldframe, the seedlings may be transferred from the seed-trays to the coldframe instead of into boxes. 
Perennials require exactly the same treatment, except that sowing may be delayed until the annuals are out of the way, and the 
seedlings may be grown on in a temporary nursery until autumn when they must be moved to the beds in which they are to flower 
next year. 
ASTERS 
Asters prefer an open, sunny situation and they respond amazingly to fertilizers and good cultivation. It is advisable to change 
the location of the Aster-bed each year if you want large flowers and lots of them. For early bloom, start the seed in a window-box or 
hotbed, in March, giving the little plants plenty of light and water as required, and thinning 3 to 4 inches apart, or transplanting 
them when a few inches high to small pots. Set them out after danger from frost is past. For solid beds of color, set the plants 8 to 
10 inches apart, but if large flowers and long stems are wanted for cutting, plant at least 
1 foot apart in rows 1 *4 to 2 feet apart. The seed may be sown outdoors in early May with 
good results, except that the plants will bloom later. 
SEMPLE’S BRANCHING. Extra-large flowers, with 
heavy, incurved petals, on long, stiff stems. A mag¬ 
nificent sight from late August on, and ideal for cut¬ 
ting. Beds of one color are most attractive. 
Pure White, Dark Blue, Rose-Pink, Crimson. 
Each, pkt. 10 cts., >£oz. 85 cts., oz. $1.50. 
Mixed. All of the above colors. Pkt. 10 cts., 
}4oz. 85 cts., oz. $1.50. 
QUEEN OF THE MARKET ASTERS. The plants 
are low and bushy, bearing quantities of large, deep 
flowers from July on. 
White, Pink, Crimson, Lavender, Purple. 
Each, pkt. 10 cts., }4oz. 85 cts., oz. $1.50. 
Mixed Colors. Pkt. 10 cts., }4oz. 75 cts., oz. $ 1.25. 
GIANT CALIFORNIA, SUNSHINE. Artistic flowers 
with a single row of rays, and a tufted center of a 
contrasting color, usually golden yellow. Mixed 
colors. Pkt. 25 cts., Koz. $2.25, oz. $4. 
ian California Aster Asters continued on page 31 Giant California Sunshine Aster 
