ORIGINATOR, IMPORTER AND GROWER OF GLADIOLUS 
CARE AND CULTURE 
THE GLADIOLUS can be successfully growin in practically any part 
of our U. S. They are easily grown and respond wonderfully to a 
little attention, such as timely watering and cultivation. They will 
adapt themselves to most any garden and will be found doing much 
better than most flowers with an equal amount of effort by the 
grower, be they amateur or professional. 
THE PACKAGE when received should be opened at once to admit 
air directly on bulbs—store in cool, dry and frost-proof place until 
planting time. 
SOIL—Any good garden soil is very satisfactory; it is important that 
the soil should not be worked when wet, and should be kept pliable 
at all times during the growing season. 
LOCATION—They will not do their best in too much shade. They 
enjoy being planted in rows or in beds ; they are valuable in the land¬ 
scape, putting clumps of all one color or mixed at suitable points for 
the desired effect. The ground should be well drained for best results. 
DISINFECTING—This is advisable, as it will practically eliminate 
any disease or insect pest. I offer but one method: this accomplishes 
all in one operation; use at the rate of one ounce of Bichloride of 
Mercury to 10 gallons water (B. of M. is more soluable in warm 
water), soak from 8 to 10 hours, the night before planting, (not nec¬ 
essary to remove husks) ; they may be planted wet. 
PLANTING—Have soil loose; make trench or hole deep enough so 
that bulbs can be covered with three inches of dirt, (sandy soil, five 
inches) ; plant bulbs three inches apart in the row. If fertilizer is used 
at planting time, keep at least two inches from bulb, by covering bulb 
with dirt before adding the fertilizer. 
WATER and CULTIVATION—Water thoroughly so that it will soak 
down to the bulb, at least once a week, but count a good rain as one, 
cultivate thoroughly next day if not sticky. 
THE FLOWER—If you wish to cut the flower do it when the first 
flower opens wide, to get a nice spike with it slide the knife down 
close to spike on one side, stopping six to eight inches from ground, 
then slide it down the opposite side giving knife a twist at the bot¬ 
tom to remove spike with flowers; this operation cuts leaves from 
spike but they remain on the plant, which is essential to properly 
mature the bulb. 
HARVESTING—Bulbs should be ready to dig three to six weeks 
after blooming or dig when foliage starts to turn brown. Loosen bulb 
with fork or other tool and bulb will lift out by the top-—shake dirt 
off—-cut tops off close to bulb, let bulb fall in clean container (three 
inches deep), pile up tops for burning. Let bulbs cure three to six 
weeks in a dry, airy, frost-proof place, stirr occasionally for thorough 
drying—they must be dry. When ready, the old root should snap off 
easily, leaving bulb clean; now store away for winter in containers 
(boxes or bags) not over four inches deep, in a cool, dry, frost-proof 
place. 
Our stock is clean, healthy, thrip free and true to name. 
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