Important—Please Read Carefully 
Guarantee 
We guarantee our plants to be satisfactory upon 
arrival, and to be true-to-label. We do not express 
or imply any warranty as to the life or productive¬ 
ness of the stock we sell. It is mutually agreed 
and understood that our liability for untrueness to 
name shall be confined to free replacement or re¬ 
fund of the original purchase price. 
Budded Roses 
Our Roses are all Two-Year-Old, Field Grown, and 
Field Budded. 
Conditions 
Orders are booked, subject to conditions over 
which we have no control. On varieties that we are 
sold out on, we reserve the right to substitute an¬ 
other of the same color and habit, unless you request 
that no substitution be made. This will not be nec¬ 
essary on orders that are sent in before spring. 
Order early to avoid disappointment. 
Start Shipping 
We start shipping about November 1st. 
Terms 
Our terms are cash with the order. Do not send 
currency unless by registered mail. Your check will 
be accepted, but orders that are accompanied by 
money order get preference in shipment. 
Transportation 
On all orders that are more than $2.00, we prepay 
all transportation. No order will be accepted for 
less than $1.00 plus transportation charges. On or¬ 
ders for less than $2.00 add 5c per plant to cover 
postage and packing. 
References: Any bank or business house in Ty¬ 
ler, Texas. 
If you wish, have your banker write to Mr. W. A. 
Pounds, Jr., Vice President of Tyler State Bank & 
Trust Co., Tyler, Texas. 
ASK FOR 
SPECIAL 
DISCOUNTS 
TO 
PRESIDENTS 
OF GARDEN 
CLUBS 
Quantity Discounts 
ASK FOR SPECIAL 
DISCOUNTS TO 
1 to 24 plants net, as per list. 
W. H. D. CLUBS 
25 to 50 plants 10% off list. 
AND SALESLADIES. 
51 and upwards 15% off list. 
GET YOUR FRIENDS 
All special offers are net cash. Deduct the dis- 
TO ORDER 
WTTXJ VATT 
count after the order total has been figured. 
Wlltl lUl. 
YOU CAN SAVE. 
Patented Roses Are Net Cash. 
ASK FOR OUR PLAN. 
General Care and Cultural Methods of Roses 
Time to Buy Plants 
In the North, spring is safest, and the least trou¬ 
ble. Autumn planting is more or less risky, but it 
has the advantage that the roses are established by 
spring and ready to get to work at once. 
Plants may be bought in autumn, buried deeply in 
dry soil over winter, and planted out in spring. 
Dealers’ stocks are complete in autumn, and you are 
fairly sure to get what you order; the plants are 
usually bigger and more alive; most important, you 
have them at hand for earliest spring planting. 
In the South, late November, December and Jan¬ 
uary are the best planting months. 
Planting 
Spring planting in the North should be got under 
way as soon as the soil can be worked—the earlier 
the better. 
Roses ought not be planted in little holes in the 
lawn. Give them a row to themselves in the flower 
or vegetable garden; or make a solid bed for them 
alone. 
Remember that rose bushes are alive; treat them 
as you would any living thing. Keep the roots of 
the bushes covered while they are out of the ground. 
Do not expose them to the sun and wind any more 
than you w'ould a pet goldfish. 
Make generous holes for the plants, broad and 
rather shallow. Set the plant so that the bud is 
even with the surface of the bed, or just under it. 
Spread the roots almost horizontally, and work fine 
rich soil among them, tamping it down firmly. Sep¬ 
arate the various strands and layers of roots so that 
they are not doubled, cramped, or crowded. Make 
the soil very firm. If the weather is dry, water 
heavily, and hill the plants with earth until the buds 
start to break. 
Plant just the same in autumn, except that the 
roses must be heavily protected then for the winter. 
Cultivation 
Keep the surface of the rose bed loose all the 
time, unless it is protected by a mulch, but no mulch 
should be applied until summer is well advanced. 
Work the surface of the rose beds every week and 
after heavy rains. Loose soil is the best of all 
mulches. 
Early in the season give established roses a trow¬ 
elful or two of fertilizer, stirred into the soil. Equal 
parts of wood ashes, bone meal, and dried sheep 
manure are good for this purpose. 
Feed the roses liberally with liquid manure, one- 
half gallon to a plant, when the flower buds show 
color; and repeat it every two weeks until within 
a month of the first autumn frost. 
Winter Protection 
In the North, as soon as the frosts come, hill up 
the roses with soil as high as possible. Fill the 
spaces between the hills with manure, or with leaves, 
grass, straw or other material if manure is not ob¬ 
tainable. When the ground is thoroughly frozen 
cover the tops with evergreen boughs, or more leaves, 
held in place by netting or laths. 
In the Far North it may be necessary to roof the 
bed tightly. It may be less trouble to dig up the 
roses, and keep them with their roots buried in soil 
in a cool cellar or shed, as dahlias, gladiolus, and 
cannas are kept. 
Climbers and Hybrid Perpetuals are about as hardy 
as peach trees. Where peaches cannot be grown 
they will need protection in winter. Lay the climbers 
on dry ground and cover with tarred paper, straw, 
or such material. Be sure the base of the canes is 
protected. 
