72 
THE GOLDEN EIVEE. 
the steep cliffs which form its two sides. The 
whole system of falls therefore is an immense 
half-loop, at the head of which are the great 
rapids, and along the sides a series of water¬ 
falls. There are eighteen known and identified 
falls; but it is certain that there are many more 
unknown. Hidden as they are in the thick 
tropical forest, with impassable rapids below, 
it is impossible to get a view of more than a 
part. It was only a part, and indeed a small 
part, which we saw : but it is doubtful whether 
the world holds a more stupendous sight. 
After breakfast we walked down to the quay, 
a small motor launch having been lent us for the 
expedition to the Falls. Guayra, where we 
were, is in Brazil and above the Falls. We 
were to cross the Parana to the Paraguay side, 
land, walk down to the Falls, and view them 
from that side. Indian guides were provided, 
and men to carry our things. The launch went 
at great speed, trailing a wake of lacy bubbles 
behind her. Some of the men clustered in the 
bows, others on the edge of the boat, or in a 
small barge lashed to her side. A heap of red 
embers in the bottom of the barge kept the mat6 
kettle hot, and the gourd and pipe were passed 
round at intervals. The men were young and 
slightly made, no darker than an Italian or 
Spaniard : one in charge of the party, more 
swarthy, with a knife in his belt and a revolver 
at his side. Making a great circle, we rounded 
