184 
THE GOLDEN RIVER. 
make and flight. It was a wonderful sight, in 
that wild country, with the quick night falling. 
I watched until the trolley caught me up and we 
had to push on to get across the river and choose 
a camping ground before dark. The variety 
was endless. At the time it was impossible to 
identify more than a few; but then and later 
several were made out. There was a great kite 
with a white head, of which one shot subse¬ 
quently measured four and a half feet across 
the wings. There were buzzards, of which at 
least one, the White-Tailed Buzzard, was 
clearly made out. There was the long narrow¬ 
winged harrier called the Cinereous or 
Argentine Harrier. And there was the most 
uncommon looking of the lot, the Sociable 
Marsh-Hawk, which has a body of clear grey- 
blue, black wings, a white bar on a black tail, 
ruby eyes and orange bill and feet. There were 
many more. It was not the particular identifi¬ 
cation which was interesting (though all true 
lovers long to identify) but the wild and free 
life in which for a moment I shared. 
Every poison provides its own antidote, and 
Paraguay, which breeds more stinging insects 
to the acre than any other country, also pro¬ 
duces a tobacco which the boldest of them cannot 
face. Let him who goes to the Paraguayan 
Chaco take with him a bundle of Paraguayan 
cigars. You want something to protect you 
when you are sitting in the shade of one of her 
