October 22, 1892. 
THT^ GARDENING WORLD. 
121 
Medal). Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley, had 
also an extensive collection of Apples and Pears, 
with wonderfully fine samples of the Queen, Bismark, 
Peasegood's Nonsuch, and others (Silver-gilt Medal). 
A similar award was made to Mr. M. V. Seale, Seven- 
oaks, for a large collection of single, Pompon, deco¬ 
rative, Cactus, and show Dahlias. Mr. H. J. Jones, 
Ryecroft Nursery, Hither Green, Lewisham, had a 
Silver Medal for a table of Chrysanthemums, cut 
flowers, set up with Palms and Maidenhair Ferns. 
Noticeable amongst them were Mr. R. Bahuant, 
Miss Anna Hartshorn, W. H. Lincoln, and others. 
He also set up a collection of zonal Pelargoniums 
grown for winter flowering. Mr. Norman Davis ex¬ 
hibited a miscellaneous group of Michaelmas Daisies, 
Chrysanthemums, Pompon, decorative and Cactus 
Dahlias (Silver Medal). Messrs. Pitcher & Manda, 
Hextable, Swanley, showed a collection of cut Chry¬ 
santhemums, including W. A. Manda, resembling 
a hirsute Ralph Brocklebank, M. R. Bahuant in 
quantity; and Coral Queen, a coral-pink variety, 
which was commended (Silver Medal). A similar 
award was made to Mr. W. Wells for a table of cut 
flowers of Chrysanthemums, including Viviand 
Morel, W. Wells, Florence Davis, and others. 
Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, Kent, had a 
beautiful although not very extensive collection of 
decorative and Cactus Dahlias, including such fine 
things as Ernest Cannell, Robert Cannell and 
Swanley Gem. Mr. Robert Owen, Castle Hill, 
Maidenhead, showed a grand collection of Chrysan¬ 
themums, including Mrs. C. Meyers, General Hawkes 
and N. Molyneux, all Japanese varieties. Chrysan¬ 
themum Beauty of Exmouth and Duchess of Devon¬ 
shire were shown by Mr. W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth, 
Devon. Messrs. Reid & Bornemann had some 
stands of new and early flowering Chrysanthemums, 
including a pretty Pompon’named Rosie Jancke, 
with bronzy gold florets. They had also some zonal 
Pelargoniums. Mr. Fowler, Taunton, Devon, ex¬ 
hibited a stand of Chrysanthemums; and Mr. Percy 
Waterer, The Briars, Lingfield, Dirtford, also had a 
fine stand of Lady Selborne. 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN, 
Clerodendron fallax. —Just now the usefulness 
of this subject will be apparent to everyone who 
grows it. The scarlet flowers make themselves con¬ 
spicuous amongst the other occupants of the stove 
or warm conservatory. Should any seeds ripen they 
may be gathered and sown at once, and the young 
plants will flower next autumn. After the wood of 
the old plants is ripened, the stems may be cut hard 
back so as to make bushy plants for another year. 
Euphorbiafulgens (jacquiniaefl ora). —In order 
to render the flowers of this plant as durable as 
possible plants in pots should be kept near the glass. 
The temperature of a stove will suit it, but if ventila¬ 
tion can be given during the day it will tend to make 
the flowers more durable. 
Temperature of the Stove. —A growing tem¬ 
perature is not now necessary, and the aim should be 
to encourage most things to go to rest. A minimum 
night temperature of 6o° may be kept up, or on mild 
nights it may be a little higher. The ventilators 
may be closed early in the afternoon so as to 
economise fire heat, assured that sun heat is at all 
times the most beneficial to plants. 
Epiphyllum truncatum— As early flowering 
batches of Epiphyllums comj into bloom, they may 
be removed from heat and placed in a conservatory 
or greenhouse where a temperature of 50° is kept up 
at nights. The dry atmosphere will also be favour¬ 
able to their longevity. 
Solanums. —Berried plants lifted from frames or 
the open ground should be kept rather close and 
syringed overhead till the roots have taken hold of 
th: fresh soil. 
Chinese Primulas. —The earliest batch may 
now be transferred from the frames to a greenhouse, 
or other structure with a similar temperature; and 
if they cannot be placed on a stage close to the glass 
they should be placed upon a hanging shelf, so as to 
get all the advantages of light and plenty of ventila¬ 
tion on all favourable occasions. 
Cinerarias and Calceolarias. —The former may 
be kept in cold frames for some time yet, as the cool 
bottom of ashes is favourable to their welfare. On 
frosty nights a dry mat or two should be thrown 
over the lights, because if the lower and large leaves 
get hurt with frost, the plants never look so well 
afterwards. Calceolarias should be potted on from 
the seedling pans, or into larger sizes as they require 
it, and according to their stage of advancement. 
Roman Hyacinths. —The earliest potted batches 
should now be well rooted, and if desired to be in 
flower some time during next month, they may 
safely be urged on by transferring them from time to 
time into higher temperatures, and keeping them 
near the glass to prevent drawing. A low span- 
roofed house or a low pit would be the best place 
for them. Paper-white Narcissus may be treated in 
the same way. 
Vineries. —If Grapes are required very early in 
the season, the earliest vinery must be closed by the 
end of this month. In the case of planted-out Vines 
no artificial heat will be required for some time, if 
the borders are covered with fermenting manure. 
Pot Vines may be started about the same time. 
Stand the pots on fermenting manure, after making 
sure that the drainage is perfect. Tie down the 
rods in a horizontal position, to ensure their break¬ 
ing equally. Before tying them up into position the 
beds may be made up afresh, and inverted pots 
placed on the ground, so as to stand the others 
upon them to prevent the sinking of the pots, which 
might otherwise take place by the decay of the fer¬ 
menting material. Then build up the material so 
as to cover the sides of the pots containing the 
Vines. 
Peaches. —If it is intended to lift and transplant 
trees from the open wall to the houses this may be 
done now. Some like the trees to have dropped 
their leaves before this Is done, but it is an ad¬ 
vantage to have the work accomplished before the 
dull days set in because the roots are now very 
active and the trees get established before winter 
and are therefore able to bear a crop in the following 
year. 
Orchard House. —The best time for planting 
and transplanting Apples, Pears, Peaches, etc., is the 
month of October, and what potting remains to be 
done should be accomplished at once. Procure some 
good substantial fibrous loam, even if inclined to 
clay, and mix this with one-fourth of well, rotted 
stable manure. New trees required, if not obtain¬ 
able in the garden, should be procured from the 
nurseryman at once and potted up or planted out as 
the case may be. 
Th9 Kitchen Garden. —Preparations should 
now be made for trenching all ground which has 
been cleared of Peas, Scarlet Runners, Dwarf Beans, 
Cauliflower, Potatos, etc. Trenching 2 ft. deep and 
manuring heavily, especially when the soil is of a 
poor nature, should be the rule of the day. Where 
the subsoil is bad, or has never before been disturbed, 
it should not be turned up to the surface, but merely 
well loosened. In after years as it gets mixed with 
good soil and manure, it may be brought to the sur¬ 
face and gradually incorporated with the rest. 
Rhubarb and Seakale. —About the end of the 
month a few roots of some early sort of Rhubarb 
may be lifted and placed in a Mushroom house with 
a temperature of 50° to 6o°. The plantations of 
both Rhubarb and Seakale should be dug over and 
covered with a layer of stable mmure, except such 
portions as are intended for forcing. 
--f—- 
©bituan?. 
The grave a few days ago closed over the remains of 
one of the best known and most experienced horti¬ 
culturists of Scotland, and the large attendance at 
his funeral was a fitting testimony to the high 
estimation Is which he was held. Mr. James 
Gordon for forty-two years past had been head 
gardener on the estate of Colonel Wauchope, at 
Niddrie, Midlothian, and lately under the Colonel 
the management of the property had devolved upon 
him. As a horticulturist he had few equals, and his 
advice was much sought after, proprietors and 
gardeners recognising in him a man of skill and an 
excellent judge. About twenty years ago he was 
selected for a short leet to fill the appointment, then 
vacant, of head gardener to the Queen at Windsor 
Castle. Mr. Gordon, at Her Majesty’s request, paid 
a visit to Balmoral, where she saw him, and was so 
pleased with his. qualifications that he was chosen 
for the post. In the course of negotiations it tran¬ 
spired, however, that Mr. Wauchope, the present 
proprietor's father, had indicated his regret at losing 
so valuable a servant, and it is said when the Queen 
heard this she expressed her unwillingness to deprive 
any subject of the services of a faithful servant, and 
accordingly Mr. Gordon was passed over. Though 
it was doubtless a disappointment to him at the 
time, Mr. Gordon continued as conscientiously as 
before, and to the end, to take the deepest interest 
in all that concerned his employer's estate. He was 
a man of kindly disposition, modest, and unassum¬ 
ing, and yet with sufficient courtesy of manner to 
command the utmost respect from all with whom he 
came in contact. He was highly appreciated by 
Colonel Wauchope who was present at the funeral. 
He leaves a widow and grown-up family— Edinburgh 
Evening News. 
-- 
Questions add Answer. 
Correspondents are requested, in order to avoid delay, 
to address all communications to "The Editor’ 
or “ The Publisher,” and not to any person by 
name, unless the correspondence is of a privat, 
character. Telegrams may be addressed “ Bambusa, 
London." 
Names of Fruits. — IV. R. G. : A., Bedfordshire 
Foundling; B. and F., Blenheim Orange: C. and G , 
.New Hawthornden ; D., Manks Codlin ; E., Red- 
ribbed Greening; H, not recognised.— T. F. 1, 
Beurre Bose; 2, Marie Louise; 3. Beurre Diel ; 1, 
Louise Bonne of Jersey ; 5, Not known ; 6, French 
Crab Apple. 
Lapageria rosea. — J. Macdonald : A very good 
variety, and a seedling no doubt, but not so fine as 
the Nash Court variety, from which it differs in 
baing much shorter, a little more expanded at the 
mouth of the tube and not so dark in colour. Yours 
seems to be very free, but not more so than some 
others we have seen. 
Pruning. — Omega: If you root prune in the 
autumn, you may leave the branch pruning until 
spring. We should not hesitate to lift and root 
prune trees 8 tt. and 10 ft. high, if they are making 
too gross growth. We have no experience of rooting 
Woodbine cuttings, but see no reason why you 
shoul 1 not try to strike them now under bell glasses, 
in a frame. 
United Horticultural Benefi r and Provident 
Society. — J. IV. ; Mr. W. Collins, 9, Martindale 
Road, Balham, S.W., will gladly give you all 
particulars on application. 
Ringing Dracaenas. — G.G.: The process is very 
simple. At a point just under the head of leaves cut 
out a ring with a sharp knife, just cutting through 
the young wood so as to prevent the downward pas¬ 
sage of plant food through the outer and younger 
cells of the wood. By making a notch on one side 
of the stem only, you may cut deeper than when the 
notch is carrie I right round the stem. Your object 
should be to leave a sufficient thickness of stem to 
support the head without fear of breaking, and also 
to carry up sap to the leaves to keep them healthy 
till roots are formed. It is not necessary to cut very 
deeply, provided the growing cells, which are not far 
below the surface, are cut through. Then cut a 
small pot through the middle—that is, the long way 
of the pot. Place the pot round the stem, with the 
latter passing through the hole at the bottom; 
see that there is sufficient drainage for the 
passage of water. Then fill up the pot with 
a light compost of loam, leaf soil, and 
sand, pressing it rather firmly, so that roots, 
when pushed out from the notch or ring, miy grow 
into the compost. The ring should, of course, be 
inside the pot, and towards the bottom of it. The 
two halves of the pot should be tied together firmly 
with a strong piece of raffia or twine. The plant will 
take some weeks, perhaps, to push out roots, and 
you can examine to see if it has done so by untying 
the pot. Other cultivators tie a handful of sphag¬ 
num round the cut part of the stem, and keep the 
sphagnum moist till roots are formed. The soil in 
the pot tied round the stem must also, of course, be 
kept moist till that is the case, after which the head 
may be cut off and treated as a rooted plant in 60 or 
48 size pots, according to the size of the plant and 
the quantity of roots. While roots are being formed 
the plant or plants should be kept in the stove. 
Maguerite Carnations.— IV.C. : It is the opinion 
of many who have seen these Carnations that they 
had been produced by crossing the Chinese Pink with 
the Carnation or vice versa. The fact that they 
refuse to thrive in some gardens, would also lead to 
the same conclusion. Some years ago when we first 
noted a batch of them growing in the open ground, 
the habit of the plants varied considerably, and some 
of them more resembled the Chinese Pink thap the 
Carnation. Batches of them seem now to approach 
the Carnation in leaves and habit pretty closely. 
Notwithstanding all this Messrs. Damman & Co., 
Teduccio, Naples, who sent it out, say that they 
discovered it in Sicily and have grown it for the past 
ten years. That does not settle the origin of the strain 
very definitely, however. 
