iso 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
October 29, 1392. 
LILIES AND THEIR 
CULTURE* 
It is quite unneccessary for me to call attention to 
the beauty, both of form and colour, to be found in 
the genus Lilium, their graceful habit, gorgeous 
colouring, and rare fragrance recommend'ng them 
at once to the notice of the least observant. 
Anyone who has seen a well-grown and judiciously 
planted collection, cannot fail to have remarked how 
admirably suited they are both for indoor and 
outdoor decoration. Their naturally tall growth, 
surmounted by brilliant flowers, forms a pleasing 
contrast to the dwarfer plants in the herbaceous 
border or the Fern rockery. 
But it is in the position best suited to themselves 
that they are seen to the greatest advantage. In 
Rhododendron and Azalea beds they do better than 
anywhere else, and provide colour and flowers for 
cutting from June to October, in ground which 
otherwise is practically useless from June to April. 
By planting Lilies in between the shrubs, two crops of 
flowers are ensured with a minimum of trouble from 
beds which otherwise would only produce one. 
Now that herbaceous borders have again become 
popular, clumps of choice Lilies tastefully arranged 
amongst the commoner flowers usually grown there 
cannot fail to be appreciated by everybody. Grown 
in pots they are of the greatest assistance to the 
decorator, both for conservatory and indoor work, 
relieving at once the dead level of the ordinary run 
of greenhouse plants. In the exhibition tent, well 
bloomed Lilies seldom fail to score a point or so 
when tastefully displayed in mixed groups. In 
fact for nearly every purpose for which flowers 
are required, Lilies are admirably suited. Yet in 
how few gardens do we see anything approaching a 
representative collection, and how few gardeners 
take the trouble to learn how to grow anything but 
the commonest kinds. 
Lily Bulbs. 
In this paper I intend only to deal with Lilies 
proper, i.e., those having bulbs composed of scales, 
and shall leave " so called ” Lilies, such as Nerines, 
Vallotas, Amaryllis, Agapanthus, &c. to those better 
acquainted with their cultivation than myself. As 
there may be some who are not acquainted with the 
construction of Lily bulbs, and as some of my 
remarks on cultivation would be pointless without 
this knowledge, I propose briefly to describe their 
formation and the functions exercised by the 
component parts in the different stages of growth. 
A Lily bulb is composed of a large number of 
scales (of different shapes and sizes according to the 
kind) pressed tightly against one another face to 
back, and arranged spirally round a central axis. 
From the lower side of this central axis, or root- 
stock, spring the roots which nourish the bulb; 
while from the upper side is produced the flower¬ 
bearing stem, which in its turn sends^out roots from 
near its base. These roots draw nearly all the food 
required for the production of flowers, leaves, and 
seed. As growth proceeds the swelling of the stem 
forces the scales apart, and the bud thus released 
pushes its way through the soil. 
If the bulb be examined when the growth is, say, 
6 in. above the soil, it will be found that the scales, 
which at the time of planting were packed tightly 
together, are now comparatively loose ; some of the 
outer ones will probably be found on the point of 
decaying. At the same time if the bulb is cut open, 
it will be discovered that at the side of the base of 
the stem between it and the innermost scales a tiny 
bulb (or bulbs) is already visible to the naked eye. 
If the microscope be use 1 , this Lulb, though very 
minute, may be seen as soon as the parent bulb 
reaches maturity. As time goes on this tiny bulb 
swells rapidly and soon becomes as large or larger 
than the parent, the scales of which (in most cases) 
gradually decay until only a few of those originally 
nearest the stem remain. When this new bulb is 
“ripe," that is has completed its growth, the roots 
of the old bulb wither, to be shortly replaced by a 
fresh supply from the new bulb. 
From this it will be seen that from February to 
October, that is to say, from the commencement of 
stem growth to the maturity of the new bulb, the 
roots of the parent bulb have to perform two different 
functions—first, they have to nourish the stem, but 
A paper read to the members of the Devon and Exeter 
Gardeners’ Mutual Improvement Association, at Exeter, on 
October 19th, by Lieut. Percy Smith, of the Devonshire 
Regiment. 
only up to the time it forms roots of its own ; second, they 
have to supply all the food necessary for the growth 
of next year's flowering bulbs. From November to 
February, there being little or no growth to nourish, 
all the food taken up by the roots is stored within 
the bulb for future use. This is what happens in a 
natural state, and if left alone the roots are capable 
of doing what they were intended to do, but no more. 
Occasionally a gardener imagines he is wiser than 
nature, so he plants a Lily bulb in the same way that 
he pots a Hyacinth, with the top just clear-of the soil. 
Let us see for a minute what happens. Roots, of course, 
are thrown out from the base; the stem begins to 
grow, and in its turn throws out roots. These, 
having nothing to feed on, promptly wither and die. 
The new bulb soon requires all the food the basal 
roots can supply for its own development to flower¬ 
ing size. But the stem is also calling out for food 
to perfect its leaves and flowers. The roots cannot 
find sustenance for both bulb and stem, so one of 
three things must now happen : either they must 
feed the stem and starve the bulb, starve the stem 
and feed the bulb, or they must take a middle and 
more usual course, and half-starve both. The result 
of this is that the flowers so eagerly expected are 
disappointing or non-existent, and the new bulb 
which was going to do wonders the following season 
requires another year's growth before it flowers at 
all. Thus, by bad cultivation, we are in the same 
position two years hence as at present, having in the 
meantime lost two crops of first-class flowers. 
The same argument applies of course to the des¬ 
truction of the basal roots, only in a still greater 
degree. What we have to discover then is to treat 
our bulbs in such a manner that they will produce 
good flowers and a good new bulb annually. If 
Lilies are in good health, they generally form off¬ 
sets, either round the stem just below the soil, or 
from the decaying scales of the old bulb ; and these, 
if planted by themselves, will grown into flowering 
bulbs in a couple of seasons : thus, as an additional 
incentive to good cultivation, we have the certainty 
of material increasing our stock. 
Choosing Bulbs. 
From the foregoing remarks it will have 
been gathered that without good, well-ripened 
bulbs to start with, it is impossible to have 
fine flowers—at any rate for the first year. 
A good bulb should be large, according to the 
species or variety ; the scales should be light in 
colour, full of sap, and fitting tightly together. These 
qualities collectively render the bulb heavy in pro¬ 
portion to its size, and firm when squeezed in the 
hand. It is not advisable to buy imported bulbs, as 
a rule, if good home-grown ones can be procured 
fresh from the ground. Order early, and from a 
firm who grow their own Lilies and make them a 
speciality. If it is absolutely necessary to obtain a 
supply from a nurseryman who doesn’t grow his own 
Lilies, it is advantageous to bury the bulbs in moist 
cocoa-nut fibre in a place safe from frost for a week 
or ten days in order to plump them up, as they are 
usually sent out in a bad, flabby condition. The 
time and trouble will not be thrown away, but will 
be amply repaid by the certainty and rapidity with 
which they will throw out roots when planted, and 
the consequent small percentage of loss from decay. 
Time to Plant 
Soon after arriving at a state of maturity the new 
bulb commences to throw out roots, and as at that 
time there is little or no growth to nourish, it follows 
that the food collected must be stored within the 
bulb itself for future emergencies. Equally it stands 
to reason that, the larger the stock of food the bulb 
has to fall back upon in case of eccentric cultivation 
or an unfavourable season, the better it is for the 
cultivator. This seems to prove that the best time 
to plant is during the short period of rest between 
the arrival of the bulb at maturity and the emission 
of roots. 
In most cases this period of rest lies between the 
end of August and the end of October, according to 
the season. In transplanting, Lilies may be safely 
lifted as soon as the foliage begins to turn yellow, 
and they should be at once transferred to their 
future quarters, which should be prepared before¬ 
hand, so as to avoid exposure to the air as much as 
possible. Lilium candidum and its varieties should 
be planted about the third week in August. As re¬ 
gards imported bulbs, the cocoa-nut fibre treatment 
is to be recommended. The first consignments of 
L. auratum and speciosum are rarely properly 
ripened ; those arriving in December are usually the 
best to buy, and with proper treatment will flower 
nearly, if not quite, as well as established plants. 
Position and Planting. 
There are few, if any, Lilies that will not grow and 
flourish in Azalea and Rhododendron beds. The 
partial shade afforded by the shrubs, the porosity of 
the soil, and the ease with which their deep-running 
roots can penetrate to a distance of 3 or 4 ft. in search 
of moisture and food, all seem to suit them to perfection. 
The next best position is a shrubbery border, and 
then the herbaceous border. But wherever they are 
planted it is essential that they should be protected 
from fierce sun, that the drainage should be good, 
and that the surface soil should always be kept cool 
and moist. For these reasons a sloping bed, facing 
south-east or south-west, is preferable. In Rhodo¬ 
dendron beds they should be planted between the 
shrubs in clumps of from four to ten bulbs, at a 
depth of from 5 to 8 inches, according to the amount 
of cold to be resisted. 
A good mulching of manure 3 in. deep in Novem¬ 
ber materially benefits both occupants of the bed 
and helps to keep out frost; while if this mulch be 
removed early in February, and mixed with twice its 
bulk of half-decayed leaves and reapplied, it pro¬ 
motes a healthy growth of stem roots, thus ensuring 
good flowers, while every shower carries down a 
certain amount of nourishment which helps in the 
production of fine new bulbs. 
Liquid manure, not too strong, enlarges the size of 
the flowers and keeps the foliage a good colour. 
Nitrate of soda, carefully and sparingly used has a 
wonderful effect on the foliage, bringing up a nice 
dark green colour in a few days ; but whatever form 
of liquid is used, the soil must be kept moist. If the 
position is exposed to the wind, sticks must be used 
to support the stems, but care must be used in 
staking, so as to avoid damaging the bulbs. Where 
peat beds are not available, a shrubbery or herba¬ 
ceous border may be used by preparing a place for 
the reception of the bulbs. If the soil is light and 
sandy no special preparation is necessary, but if it is 
inclined to be heavy, better results will be obtained 
by proceeding in the following manner : Take out 
the soil to a depth of 2 ft , and fill in with a compost 
of two parts peat to one of loam for about 15 in. 
Then put in a layer of sand about an inch deep, on 
this place the bulbs, 6 to 8 in. apart, just cover the 
tops with sand, and fill in with the same compost as 
before, but do not make the soil too firm. After, 
treatment as advised above. 
(To be continued.) 
“ WHAT 1 IS IT ? ” 
At first sight perhaps the above query may appear 
irrelevant, but doubtless on perusal of the following 
remarks, any such conception will be dissipated, and 
my elongated commentary condoned. 
Enclosed for your inspection are specimens of 
various plants, namely, Ivy Leaf Pelargonium, and 
the zonal Henry Jacoby, a piece of growth from 
Heliotrope, Dahlia, Chrysanthemum, Hydrangea, 
and a frond from Cyrtomium falcatum or Holly 
Fern, all of which you will perceive are in a dilapi¬ 
dated state. Now those of my friends to whom 
I have submitted similiar examples unanimously pro¬ 
nounce the earwig to be the culprit, an opinion 
to which I have acquiesced previous to this season. 
From a long and close observation I have come to a 
very different conclusion. You will discover (I hope 
alive) in the small bottle enclosed with above 
mentioned specimens, several green plant bugs, 
which are the sole cause of what appears to me, one, 
if not the worst pest I have had to contend with 
during forty years’ allegiance to floriculture. 
In the spring I was first attracted by its depreda¬ 
tions in my greenhouse on the young shoots of a 
vine. (You are cognizant how green fly will some¬ 
times attack these, especially when a multitude of 
plants are grown in one small house.) As the foliage 
expanded, more especially on what I had selected 
for fruiting canes, the leaves appeared as if per¬ 
forated by a small needle ; growth was retarded, and 
in some cases quite suspended until a break from a 
lateral bud was made. This led me to examine and 
carefully watch, and quite accidentally I discovered 
among a veritable colony of aphis or green fly, one 
which appeared a regular tip top sort of customer, 
and who, on finding that he was “ spotted," quickly 
“ made tracks ’’ as if detected in mischief. It was a 
long time ere I could find where it had secreted 
