710 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
July 8, 1893. 
Among those plants there was found an Orchid of a 
character absolutely distinct, which subsequently 
flowered, and was named Eulophiella Elisabeth®. 
In the month of March, 1891, a Mr. Hamelin wrote 
me, announcing that the collector, Sallerin, of whom 
we had not for several months previously received any 
news, was dead, having been drowned, and offering 
me his services to send us plants. In the mean¬ 
while, Eulophiella Elisabethae, sent by Mr. Sallerin, 
flowered and showed itself as a magnificent novelty. 
I immediately caused a water-colour drawing of the 
plant to be made of natural size, and I sent it to 
Mr. Hamelin with several coloured plates, and a. 
specimen of the number of the Lindenia, in which 
the Eulophiella was figured and described, asking 
him to collect plants on our account. On the 5th of 
October, 1892, Mr. Hamelin wrote us that he had 
recognised the plant on receipt of the plates, and 
that he was going to send us specimens on the 27th 
of October. Several months passed without news, 
but at last, on the 15th of February, 1893, he wrote 
a letter which was received in March, in which he 
stated that he would send us plants on the 27th of 
March or the 27th of April, and we heard no moie 
until we received a telegram from him from 
Marseilles on the 27th of May.” 
Mr. Hamelin has the right to reply if he thinks 
proper. 
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER. 
Choice plants in flower. 
Aster diplostephioides. — When this becomes 
plentiful, it is evident that it will enjoy a long run of 
popularity on account of the large, blue-purple 
heads, which measure 2 in. to 3 in. across. Some 
growers would no doubt like a larger production of 
flowers from a plant, as each stem terminates in a 
single head the disc of which is blackish-violet. 
The stem varies from 6 in. to 3 ft. high. It was 
introduced from the Sikkim Himalayas in 1882, and 
is not yet over plentiful. 
Chrysanthemum maximum.— The stems of this 
plant, notwithstanding the drought, have maintained 
their usual stature, being about 18 in. high. The 
golden disc is surrounded by several rows of 
imbricated white rays. C. lacustre is often grown 
under the name of C. maximum, but that is a taller, 
coarser plant, with broader leaves than those of C. 
maximum, which are oblong-lanceolate. 
Centaurea aurea. —The thistle-like heads of 
this plant are of a bright yellow and surrounded by 
silvery-white, scarious bracts. The stems are 
winged and 3 ft. high. The flower heads of the 
same colour as those of the Yellow Sultan, represent 
a hue that is popular at present. Being perennial 
and upright the plant is in all respects well adapted 
for cultivation in the herbaceous border. Another 
name for it is C. glastifolia. 
Eryngium Oliverianum. —The spiny leaves of 
this plant are deeply three parted. The upper 
portion of the stem and branches, as well as the 
bracts surrounding the oblong heads of flowers, are 
of a deep steel-blue, and this hue has been well 
developed this summer. The plant is a good 
substitute for the handsome, old-fashioned E. 
alpinum, which does not seem to like the sunny 
south. Large quantities of it are grown for market, 
generally under the erroneous name of E. amethysti- 
num. 
Veronica longifolia. —The variation in the 
colour and habit of this species is extensive. The 
flowers are of various shades of blue, rose, and 
white—the more distinct forms receiving special 
names. One of the finest of the blue forms is V. 1 . 
subsessilis, a Japanese plant with large and hand¬ 
some flowers of a deep blue. Some of the dwarfer 
varieties form intermediate links between the species 
and V. spicata. Propagation is very easy. 
Lilium Parryi. —The flowers of this compara¬ 
tively new Californian Lily are tubular below with 
the segments spreading widely above, and wholly of 
a clear Hemerocallis yellow with exception of a few 
scattered crimson dots in the throat. They are also 
agreeably fragrant. The bulbs are slightly rnizo- 
matous with curiously jointed scales. A quantity of 
peat in the soil is of great advantage to this species. 
We noted it doing well in the nursery of Mr. T. S. 
Ware, Tottenham. 
Lilium Washingtonianum. — When the flowers 
of this Lily first expand, they are white with a few 
crimson spots scattered along the middle of the seg¬ 
ments, but as they get old they change to a soft, 
rosy-purple, and are therefore as handsome when 
fading as when in their pristine glory. The oblan- 
ceolate leaves are produced in six to nine whorls, 
while the flowers are produced in a dense terminal 
raceme. It has been flowering finely for some time 
past with Mr. T. S. Ware, of Tottenham. 
Lychnis chalcedonica. —The bright scarlet 
flowers of this Campion are always welcome when 
they make their appearance. For border decoration 
the double form is even more appreciated, because 
the flowers are more durable. There are white 
varieties, single and double, but except fo'r the sake 
of contrast they are not appreciated like the scarlet 
ones. 
Lilium Browni. —The unusual character of the 
season does not seem to have affected the vigour of 
this handsome Lily, which is now 2 ft. to 3 ft. high, 
with handsome foliage. The external face of the 
three outer segments is bronzy-brown, and while in 
bud the whole flower of course exhibits this aspect 
and is certainly peculiar. When expanded the inner 
face of all the segments is pure white with a waxy 
shining lustre. 
Spiraea lobata. —The rosy panicles of flowers of 
this species are very attractive, as the foliage is fine 
when grown under suitable conditions with a fair 
amount of moisture. When planted in a dry ex¬ 
posed position in seasons like the present, the leaves 
and stems are liable to be attacked by mildew and 
rendered unsightly. Planters would do well there¬ 
fore to attend to this matter when selecting positions 
for their plants. 
Helenium Bolanderi. — The various forms of 
Helenium, like other plants, are earlier than usual, 
and H. Bolanderi maintains its position in the first 
rank. It is about 18 in. high, with clear yellow rays 
and a large, prominent, brown disc. Like H. pumi- 
lum it requires no staking when grown in a bed or 
mass, and more particularly in dry seasons. 
-- 
A CHAT ON PROPAGATION. 
Propagation by Cuttings is most advantageously 
adopted for plants whose characters are not repro¬ 
duced by their seed, or which only bear seeds at 
very long invervals, or the seeds of which are diffi¬ 
cult to germinate. From the cutting of a succulent 
plant to that of a thin-leaved stove plant, we have a 
range of great variety ; the one we root by drying it 
in the sun, while the other we have to shade and 
keep constantly in a moist, close atmosphere. 
For most tropical plants it is necessary to start 
soon ; there is no time like the days of early spring ; 
the cuttings strike easily, and have then the whole 
summer to grow in. Cuttings of ornamental fruit 
and berry-bearing plants, such as Rivina, 
Psychotria, Callicarpa, Solanum. and Capsicum, 
should be put in as early as possible, as it is 
important that they should be in flower early in 
summer, in order to set and ripen plenty of fruits. 
Some cuttings try one’s patience to the utmost. 
Economics as a class are about the worst in this 
respect. Other things will rot off or go black almost 
as quick as you put them in ; I don’t know how many 
batches of Camoensia I have put in and have failed 
with. Still I persevered and put more in, and finally 
was rewarded with a whole batch, not one of which 
failed. If, therefore, anyone tells you such and such 
a plant cannot be raised from cuttings, I would 
advise you to try for yourself. 
In making cuttings, it is important to have a good 
knife and cut clean. Cuttings of tropical, and 
indeed of most plants, I prefer to put singly into 
small pots, as it saves a shift and prevents damage 
to the roots. For hard-wooded plants of course you 
use larger pots, or even pans or boxes ; the drainage 
must be perfect, the cutting properly ripe but not 
hard, thin and weaker shoots to be preferred ; the 
lower leaves must be carefully removed. For plant¬ 
ing the cuttings use a dibber with a proper point, 
according to the thickness of the cutting, it being 
important that the base of the cutting should rest on 
the bottom of the hole, and not have a hollow space 
beneath. If the cuttings are covered with a bell- 
glass let it be large enough, and be careful to keep it 
clean. Cuttings under bell-glasses want very careful 
watching as to watering, cleaning, airing, &c. 
In the nursery it is chiefly ornamental shrubs and 
Conifers that are propagated from cuttings. The 
former may be taken as young soft-wcoded shoots, 
and put under handlights or in frames, treatment 
which answers for Ribes, Deutzia, Philadelphus, 
Spiraea, etc., or large shoots two or three years old 
may be used if they are put in beds outside. 
Cuttings of Conifers must not be too sappy nor too 
woody. Cuttings of young shoots do not make 
much callus, while woody cuttings do. Should the 
callus get hard outside it will prevent roots from 
breaking through ; such cuttings should be picked 
out when the ethers are potted up, the callus cut, 
and then placed in a little extra heat. 
Roses are propagated from cuttings put in frames 
in July and August. They must be kept close, 
exposed to sun and frequently syringed, potted off 
when rooted, and wintered in a cold frame. Cuttings 
of many Cacti root easily, and will not only produce 
bulbils from the spine-cushions, but also on the axis. 
The stems of Cycads may be cut through and the 
tops used as cuttings, and even the scales of Cycas 
will form new plants. 
The scales of bulbs will produce a number of 
young bulbils if the base o‘ the bulb is cut crosswise 
or sliced off altogether. I may here say that young 
bulbils, whether from seeds or scales, do nowhere 
better than when planted out in frames, and that 
young seedlings of bulbous plants do not go to rest, 
as a rule, until two or three years old. 
Leaf Cuttings.— There are a great number of 
plants which may be propagated from their leaves. 
Begonia Rex is a well-known example ; but when¬ 
ever you have a plant of special value and wish to 
propagate it rapidly it is well to try leaf cuttings. 
Besides Begonias, such things as Peperomias, almost 
all Gesnerads, including Ramondia pyrenaica, 
Pelargoniums, Cyperus (leaf-whorls), Phyllogathis, 
Bertolonias, Echeverias, and other succulents will 
easily strike. For some plants leaf cuttings are by 
far the best way. 
Root Cuttings.— Cuttings formed of roots are 
sometimes taken advantage of when a large quantity 
of plants from small stock is desired. This method 
is, however, slow, and the plants thus obtained are 
not as strong as from ordinary cuttings. Root 
cuttings must not be put in much"bottom-heat, or 
they will only form shoots which soon turn black 
and perish. In the nursery such plants as Rhus, 
Colycanthus, Paulownia, and Sophora are propa¬ 
gated from roots of the thickness of a pencil to that 
of a thumb ; they are cut into 6 in. lengths and put 
into pots, cutting fashion, and placed under glass in 
slight bottom-heat. 
Layering is a convenient way of propagating in 
the nursery, as it may be done at any time after the 
wood is ripe. It is commonly employed for Carna¬ 
tions and Lapagerias, and may also be applied to 
Asparagus plumosus, when all the foliage has been 
cut off. It must not be forgotten that in many cases 
you cannot get cuttings early enough unless stock 
plants are prepared expressly for that purpose. 
Propagation by Grafting is one of the most im¬ 
portant methods of artificial propagation. The sub¬ 
ject in itself is so wide that I cannot hope to be able 
to do it justice. The objects of grafting are :— 
1. To save time, where you would otherwise have to 
wait ten years before getting fruit, through grafting 
you may get the result in two or three years. 2. To 
keep sorts true. 3. To alter the habit of a plant, 
i.e., dwarfing. 4. To propagate plants which are 
difficult to strike, and do not seed. 5. To improve 
the flavour and colour of fruits. 6. To enable 
us to grow plants on soils and in climates which, 
under ordinary circumstances, would be unsuitable to 
them. 7. To grow several kinds on one plant. 8. 
To renew the fertility of old trees. 9. To repair 
imperfect wall trees. 
There are four kinds of grafting, namely:—1. 
Marching; when the scion is a rooted plant. 2. 
When the scion is a cutting, as in splice, saddle or 
cleft grafting. 3. Grafting on roots. 4. Budding. 
Both stock and scion should be in perfect health, 
and the latter properly ripened. Season and weather 
must be carefully studied, and also in relationship of 
stock and scion. Stocks in pots, such as Rhododen¬ 
drons and Camellias, must be thoroughly soaked 
before being worked. The grafts must be well 
attended to as to airing, shading, and moisture. 
Propagation may be called by far the most 
important and responsible of the gardener’s duties ; 
men engaged in this work should have a genuine 
love of it, be reliable, patient, and methodical. 
Careful observation of the smallest details, and 
thoughtful execution of even the simplest operation, 
