7l2 
the gardening world. 
July 8, 1898. 
lilium maritimum. 
The stems of this Lily, which is seldom seen in this 
country, vary from 2 ft. to 3 ft. in height, and bear a 
terminal raceme of two to six flowers, which are bell¬ 
shaped and drooping. They vary in colour from 
pale to dark crimson-scarlet, and are marked in the 
throat in a varying manner w’ith dark crimson spots. 
The leaves are dark green, oblong-lanceolate, and 
mostly scattered, or the upper ones may be in whorls. 
It is a native of California, in peaty, maritime 
meadows, near San Francisco, where it is exposed 
to the foggy climate of the sea coast in that district. 
These facts should afford some hints as to how it 
should be treated in this country. While perfectly 
exposed to sunlight the ground should be shaded 
with something that will retain the moisture ; and 
if a good quantity of peat is mixed with the soil so 
much the better, as a peaty soil is not so liable to 
get dry and hot, nor does it ever get baked. A 
quantity of bulbs have been flowering lor some time 
past with Mr. T. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, 
Tottenham. 
PfRUS ANGUSTIFOLIA FLORE PLENO 
A double-flowered form of an ornamental Crab has 
been put into commerce by M. Oscar Tiefenthal of 
Wandsbek, under the simple name of Pyrus angusti- 
folia, a North American Crab, with rose-coloured 
flowers, and which was introduced to this country in 
1750. It forms a tree about 20 ft. in height, flower¬ 
ing with us in April, and having oblong or lanceolate, 
narrow leaves, tapered to the base. The double 
variety is evidently a fine thing with large flowers, 
which, although double, are by no means crowded 
with petals. There is a woodcut of it in Bulletin0 
della R. Societa Toscana di Orticultura, for June. That 
journal says the flowers emit an odour as sweet as 
the Rose, and which may be perceived at a great 
distance. The tree grows slowly, but is perfectly 
robust, is well adapted to various soils, and is other¬ 
wise well worthy of cultivation on account of the 
beauty of its foliage, and the beauty and delicious 
odour of its flowers. 
YUCCA GLORIOSA. 
The hardy Yuccas, but particularly the strong grow¬ 
ing species which develop a stem, are handsome 
objects at this season of the year when they come 
into bloom. Y. gloriosa and Y. g. recurvifolia rise 
up with stout, often branched stems with each branch 
terminated by a dense crown of leaves, rather 
formidable looking in the case of the type on account 
of their rigidity and spiny tip. The flower stems 
are terminal and cause the branching. They vary 
from 2 ft. to 3| ft. or more in length, and arecovered 
for the most part by a dense tapering panicle of 
drooping creamy-white flowers of great size. Some 
describe them as Lily like, but we should compare 
them to those of a white Fritillary, having similarly 
shaped flowers but more contracted at the mouth 
and pendent. The title of “ century plant ” is 
generally applied to Agave Americana, but one of 
our provincial contemporaries applies it to Yucca 
gloriosa, and must have been labouring under a 
seriously erroneous impression, seeing that the same 
plant flowers frequently when it has attained a large 
size. 
DIANTHUS ATKINSONI 
This is one of the mule Pinks in the way of D. 
Napoleon III, but much darker in colour ; in fact 
the flowers are of a brilliant dark crimson when they 
first expand, but they ultimately fade somewhat, and 
are seen to possess at least three distinct zones of 
colour. The outer zone retains its crimson hue to 
some extent, while below the middle of the petal 
is a bright crimson-scarlet zone, with a purple-red 
band round the eye, forming the innermost zone. 
The stems are about 12 in. high, producing numerous 
flowers on a branching, rather open cyme. The 
leaves are of a dark green. A bed, or even a good 
line of this round a bed would be very effective. 
FERULA CANDELABRA. 
The large and handsome leaves of this plant are 
about seven times divided with the ultimate seg¬ 
ments linear. The flowers are small and yellow, 
produced in compound umbels on ascending branches 
from stems 6 ft. to 8 ft. high. The plant is therefore 
stately and striking when in bloom, but is at all 
times deserving of cultivation for the sake of the 
foliage alone. Given plenty of room, the plant may 
be grown in the herbaceous border, but a round bed 
on the grass is best calculated to show off the hand¬ 
some foliage to advantage. 
ORCHID NOTES AND GLEANINGS. 
The Orchid Growers’ Calendar. 
Vanda suavis. —Our plants have just gone out of 
bloom after carrying their spikes for nearly two 
months, a much longer period than we generally 
allow them to stay on. The plants, however, do not 
appear to have suffered in the least, for they show 
no signs of losing any of the bottom leaves. The 
plants in question are what may be termed half 
specimens, being about 4 ft. high. Some growers 
do not succeed with this genus, although they grow 
Aerides, Saccolabiums.and otherOrchids to perfection. 
I do not know that our plants receive any special 
treatment ; they are, as before explained, grown with 
the Cattleyas, where, of course, they get a good deal 
of light. They are grown in baskets instead of pots, 
and are given peat as well as sphagnum moss to root 
into. Herein then, perhaps, lies the whole secret of 
our success. The baskets are of course large, two 
feet square for a four feet high plant, and propor¬ 
tionately deep. Pieces of broken pots are mixed in 
with the material when it is necessary to renew it, 
which helps to keep it sweet and porous. The roots 
keep in healthier condition than when grown in pots, 
besides having the advantage of the syringing when 
damping down. When watering them we do it 
thoroughly, allowing them to become moderately 
dry before watering them again. Manure water 
may be given to healthy growing plants at every 
other watering. 
General Work. — This will now consist of 
keeping the plants free from dirt and insects by 
frequent application of the sponge. Unless the 
plants are very bad we use clear rain water only. 
Keeping the plants clean has more to do with their 
successful culture than many think. 
Top Dressing. — Where the moss has failed to 
grow it should be replaced with fresh live sphagnum. 
This can be done without damage to the roots if a 
little care is exercised in doing the work. 
Watering. — Every plant is now in a growing 
state and must not be allowed to get a check by 
being dried too much. To avoid this plants growing on 
bare blocks or with very little material to root into, 
should be so placed that they can be easily seen, so 
that when syringing in the afternoon they can be 
sprayed over. Plants in baskets and suspended 
close to the glass must be frequently taken down and 
examined—every other day where the plants dry up 
at all quick (as ours do), will not be too often, if they 
are in good condition. 
Giving Air.— It is the practice of some growers to 
reduce the air during the very hottest part of the 
day by partly closing the ventilators so that 
the plants should not dry up too much. Especially 
is this the case with the Odontoglossum house. We 
do not favour this practice, but give them plenty of 
air day and night. By this treatment we get large, 
well-ripened bulbs and foliage too, and in due season 
they produce spikes which are worth having. — C. 
Cattleya amethystoglossa rosea. 
The typical C. amethystoglossa has white sepals 
and petals spotted with rosy-purple. The variety 
under notice is more richly coloured in all its parts 
with the oblong-spathulate sepals and petals of a 
rosy hue spotted all over with dark purple. The 
tube of the lip is white, the lateral lobes rosy-purple, 
and the lamina as well as the inner face of the lateral 
lobis of a rich crimson-purple ; the terminal lobe is 
more or less plaited. The flowers, it seems, are 
somewhat smaller than those of the type, but that 
may be to a great extent a matter of cultivation. 
At all events the variety is highly deserving of 
attention at the hands of cultivators. Plants have 
appeared in several collections from the importations 
of Messrs. Linden (L'Horticulture Internationale), 
Brussels, in whose establishment a plant flowered 
and is figured in the Lindenia pi. 375. 
Cattleya Hardyana Statteriana. 
The original form which appeared in this country, 
namely C. Hardyana is supposed to be a natural 
hybrid between C. Dowiana aurea and C. Warsce- 
wiczii (C. gigas) both of which grow togeter in the 
same locality. It may be taken for granted that they 
cross readily, seeing that almost every importation 
from the district includes forms of C. Hardyana, 
which are generally new and almost always distinct 
from one another. The sepals of the variety under 
notice are dull ivory-white with a tint of yellow, and 
the ovate, undulate and more or less folded petals are 
of a similar shade. The tube of the lip is short* 
nankeen yellow, more or less spotted with purple 
externally, and with crimson internally on a yellow 
ground or crimson with a broken yellow veining ; 
the apical lobe is of a rich crimson-purple, netted 
with dark veins; the central portion is of a rich 
yellow with purple lines along the middle. Indeed 
the amount of yellow to be seen in the lip gives it a 
characteristic effect and readily separates it from C. 
Dowiana aurea, one of its reputed parents. The 
variety comes from the Frontino district- A beauti¬ 
ful coloured illustration of it is given in the 
Lindenia pi. 373. 
Cattleya Mossiae Mendelii. 
This name is given to a plant which turned up in an 
importation of C. Mossiae, made by the Messrs. 
Linden, of Brussels, and which presented characters 
so nearly intermediate between C. Mossiae and 
C. Mendelii that the importers joined the two names 
to indicate that the newly-imported plant was a 
variety of Mossiae. Notwithstanding this fact, we 
think it a pity that a fresh name was not given to the 
new comer, because it is likely to lead to confusion 
in the minds of gardeners as to the relationship of 
the plant; and no doubt many will consider that 
C. Mendelii has been at last tacked on to C Mossiae 
as a variety of the same. The new introduction has 
soft, rosy sepals and petals, and a white lip with two 
sets of soft, rosy-purple markings on the middle of 
the terminal lobe. There is also a large golden- 
yellow blotch in the throat striated with rosy-purple 
lines. A beautifully executed figure of it is given in 
the Lindenia pi. 376. 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN, 
The Stove.—Should it be intended to dispense 
with fire heat in the stove during the present month, 
the atmosphere of the house should be kept pro¬ 
portionately drier. Damp down very lightly at 
night or not at all when closing up unless the sun be 
very hot. Leave some ventilation on all night to 
carry off the superfluous moisture. 
New Holland Plants.—After the Leschenaultias 
have gone out of flower they should have the flower 
shoots removed to make them branch out freely and 
become bushy. It may be necessary likewise to 
pinch the shoots once or twice to get bushy stock by 
next year. Pimeleas may be prunned into shape. 
In the case of Dracophyllums, whose slender shoo’.s 
have to be trained, it is only necessary to cut back 
the flowering stems to the places where they are 
breaking out again. 
Heaths.—Attend to these in the mitter of 
watering, and where they are placed out of doors to 
ripen the wood, take care that the pots are partly 
shaded from the fierce rays of the noonday sun. 
Should the slightest traces of mildew make its 
appearance syringe the plants with a mixture of 
sulphur and water, or syringe them and then dust 
with sulphur. 
Polygalas—Such kinds as P. Dalmaisiana and 
P. oppositifolia are liable to get long and straggling. 
To counteract this, some of them may be cut hard 
back which will have the effect of making them 
bushy at the expense of a good display of bloom 
next summer. For this reason some of them should 
be left as they are till next year. 
Peaches.—As the fruit in the early houses gets 
gathered, give the trees a thorough syringing with 
the garden engine to clean the foliage of insects. 
Red spider is the worst enemy, and is almost sure to 
attack the leaves, or even to increase to an 
extraordinary extent while the house is kept dry 
during the ripening of the fruits. Sweep up and 
clear away all the leaves which come down during 
the process. Tie in the shoots of those trees whose 
fruits are now swelling, remove gross growths that 
are too coarse to produce fruits next year, elevate 
the fruits so as to expose them to all the light 
possible. 
Melons.—Those who have Melons now swelling 
up their fruits, and which will be ready for gathering 
about the end of this month, will be able to take 
another crop out of the same house by sowing a 
few seeds at intervals of ten days from now onwards, 
so that when the old plants have done fruiting they 
may be pulled up and the beds of soil remade, after 
which the stock of plants that has been purposely got 
ready may be planted with reasonable hope of success 
for a crop during late autumn and early winter. 
