July 22 , 1893. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
739 
violascens; next circle: Helianthus orgyalis, H. 
augustifolious, H. maximiliani; then Eulalia Japo- 
nica var.: Andropogun Schcenanthus, Ardr. Schim- 
peri, Andr. formosus ; then : Hedychium gardneri- 
anum, H. albiflorum, H. flavescens and Yucca angus- 
tifolia, Dianella australis, D. caerulea, Gladiolus, 
Ferraria trigrida, Richardia maculata, Schizostylis 
coccinea, Hyacinthus candicans, with a margin of 
Convallaria majalis, Scilla peruviana, Ornithogalum, 
various kinds, Zephyranthus candidus and Bambusa 
Fortunei fol. var. 
Sixth group.—Centre of Gymnothrix Japonica, G. 
latifolia, surrounded by various kinds of Sorghum 
and Eulalia japonica zebrina, E. j. fol. var., then Bam¬ 
busa Simonii, B. quadrangularis, B. spinosa, followed 
by Cyperus alternifolius, Alstroemeria chilensis, Alst. 
aurantiaca, Phaedranassa chloracea, Crccosmia 
aurea, Iris florentina, Hemerocallis flava, Iris 
anglica, and I. hispanica, Arthropodium fimbriatum, 
fancy Caladiums, and the margin of Carex japonica 
fol. var., Car. acutifolia fol. var., Rhodea japonica 
fol. var., and Maranta Buchaneaha. 
Seventh group.—Have for the centre Bambusa 
Himalayensis, B. Mazeli (Quiholl), B. scriptoria, 
surrounded by Arundo conspicua and Ar. versicolor ; 
then Canna flaccida, Canna Ehemanni, Canna lilii- 
fiora, Canna lagunensis and C. discolor, this sur¬ 
rounded by Andropogan, Panicum sulcatum, Ely- 
mus glaucophyllus, and Cyperus alternifolius, 
followed by dwarf large-flowering Cannas (Crozy’s), 
Begonia discolor, dwarf Gladiolus, Iris Germanica, 
Hemerocallis rutilans fl. pi., Juncus effusus aurea 
striatus, J. zebrinus; Agapanthus umbellatus, and 
for the margin : Allium Moly, Agapanthus minor fol. 
var. , and various kinds of Calochortus. 
Eighth group.—Centre, Bambusa quadrangularis, 
B. spinosa, B. verticillata, surrounded by Saccharum 
Maddeni, S. violaceum, Gynerium argenteum and 
Festuca dives ; for next circle tall plants of Reneal- 
mia nutans, Dracaena ensifolia, Charlwoodia, con- 
gesta, and all sorts of dark foliaged cannas, followed 
by Zea. jap. fol. var., Dracaena indivisa, Dr. austra¬ 
lis, Curculigo recurvata, Pincenectitia glauca, P. 
tuberculata (Beaucarnea), Uniola latifolia, Cyperus 
alternifolius, C. Paramatta, C. Natalensis, C. japoni- 
cus, dwarf Liliums, Zephyranthes atamasco, dwarf 
Gladiolus, Bessera elegans, Cyclobothra flava, 
Hemerocallis Middendorfiana.Schizostyllis coccinea, 
Tricyrtis hirta, and margin of Triteleia uniflora, 
Stenotaphorum glabrum fol. var., Convallaria 
majalis fol. var., and Ophiopogon jaburan fol. var. 
Ninth group.—A composition of grasses and other 
imposing plants representing a sub-tropical character 
for larger places, etc. For centre, a fine tall speci¬ 
men of Musa, Strelitzia, augusta or Pandanus, sur¬ 
rounded by tall Bambusa and Arundinaria falcata, 
Ar. macrosperma, Ar. tecta, Ar. Jurfoota, Ar. Khop- 
tus, Ar. aebilis, Ar. suberecta, Zea maxima (white 
Virginia maize), then Fices elastica, F. macrophylla, 
F. Bengalensis (Australis), F. Cooperi, Uhdea 
pimatifida, Verbesina alata, V. gigantea, Montagnea 
Heracleifolia, Schiftocarpus bicolor (perimenium), 
Amicia cygomeris, Bambusa gracilis, B. nigra, B. 
violascens ; next circle, Eucalyptus cordatus, Cos- 
mophyllum cacaliaefoliae, Sinclairia discolor, inter¬ 
spersed with Papyrus antiquorum (Cyperus pap.) ; 
next row, Canna Ehemanii, C. glaucescens, C. 
lagunensis, C. nepalensis, Tritoma uvaria and T. 
Roeperi, Yucca flaccida, Y. aloe fol. var., Y. glori- 
osa quadricolor, Prionium palmita, Amorphophallus 
Rivieri, and with a margin of Agapanthus umbella¬ 
tus, ferns, various species fancy Caladium, Acalypha 
and Aspidistra fol. var. 
Tenth group. Of similar character; for centre; 
large specimen of Yucca. Dracaena indivisa, Cocos, 
Aletris, Grevillea robusta, or Eucalyptus globulus, 
surrounded by Bambusa arundinacea, B. tuldoides, 
B. vulgaris variegata, Platonia insignis andlmperata 
arundinacea; next circle : Ricinus Gibsoni, Aralia 
papyrifera, A. quinquifolia, A. crassifolia, A. 
Sieboldii (tatsia), Ar. palmata (Sciadophyllum), Ar. 
leptophylla, etc.,Brachychiton acerifolium, Sterculla 
platanifolia, Lavatera arborea, fol. var., Solanum 
quitense, S. Warscewizii, Melianthus major, Helian¬ 
thus augustifolius, H. orgyalis, various kinds of 
sorghum, Andropogon Eulalia and papyrus anti 
quorum; then : Canna Achiras, C. lagunensis, C. 
flaccida, C. discolour, C. nigricans, mixed with Pani¬ 
cum, various kinds, Curculigo, Renealmia, phryni- 
cum, Hedychium and Thalia dealbata, followed by 
Cleome, Acalypha, Crotons, various kinds, Amaran- 
thus salicifolius. Begonia heracleifolia, Rizinifolia, 
carolinaefolia, B. jatrophaefolia, B. hernandiaefolia, 
B. palmata, B. tomentosa, Echium creticum, E. 
arboreum, Aphelandra speciosa, interspersed with 
Phalaris arundinacea ; Cyperus alternifolius, Elymus 
glaucophyllus. Andropogon argenteus. Bromus 
brizasfomi, Lasiagrostis argentea, Pennisetum 
villosum (longestylum), Stipa pinnata, Tripsacum, 
dactyloides, Cocos Weddeliana. Next circle : 
Ruellia maculata, Cineraria maritima, Iresine, 
Acalypha, Dasylirion, Yucca, etc., with a margin of 
Centaurea candidissima, Tussilago japonica, Ligu- 
laria Kaempferi albo, var ; Farfugium grande luteo 
maculata, Nardosmia fragrans (Tassilago), Ophiopo¬ 
gon, Reineckea, Bambusa Fortunei var., etc. 
The shape of all of these groups should be circular 
or oval, and with a diameter of io ft. to 25 ft., 
according to the extent of the site and the distance to 
the observer. In order to obtain the highest effects 
of such plantings, it is advisable to excavate the 
ground for the groups about three feet deep and fill 
it with fresh horse manure and wet leaves for light 
bottom-heat; over this material the soil, very rich, 
sandy loam, should be placed. 
We are sure that groups arranged in the above 
style, being so seldom produced in this country, will, 
for their scenic and picturesque effect, be highly 
appreciated by everybody.— R. Demckey, in the 
Florist's Exchange. 
--f*-- 
The Rain and the Crops. 
On several occasions recently when opening The 
Gardening World on its arrival, my mouth has in 
a sense been made to water by the accounts of the 
refreshing showers which have fallen in most parts 
of the country, and made us long for the time when 
they would reach this locality. The suspicion al¬ 
most crossed one’s mind that you might have been 
deceived as to these showers by the frequent passing 
of the water cart in front of your office and the 
greenness of the grass opposite your windows, thanks 
to a liberal use of the hose, and certainly gardeners 
in the metropolis, with plenty of water and the 
means to apply it, have had this season a great ad¬ 
vantage over us provincials. We have had but very 
slight showers here, though there have been storms 
very near to us, and the effects of the long drought is 
a very serious matter. I have sown Mangel, Swedes, 
Carrots, Beet, and other seeds, but scarcely any 
have come up. The Onion seed germinated, and 
have done fairly well, but they are small, notwith¬ 
standing the applications of nitrate of soda and 
manure water. As for blight, in the form of aphides, 
it is dreadful, and there is not a Cabbage but that is 
infested. Potatos are small, and many will not pay 
for the trouble of planting and lifting, but what we 
have are good in table quality. We are now using 
Sutton’s Regent, the flavour of which is specially 
good, as also is that of Sharpe’s Victor. Most of our 
Potatos are ripe, or nearly so, and will be taken up 
forthwith, and, what there are of them, stored while 
they are sound. The effects of a short crop on a 
place like this is very serious, making the expense of 
keeping our lads very great, and thereby increasing 
the need of extended support for all such philan¬ 
thropic institutions.— A. J. Broum, School of Handi¬ 
crafts, Chertsey. 
Winter Greens. 
Now that we have had such nice rains, and the 
ground is in such good working order, no time must 
be lost in planting all late Winter Greens and Spring 
Broccoli. All spare ground should be filled up. 
Coleworts may be planted for some time yet, on 
gro und that is being cleared of Peas and Potatos. 
T urnips. 
Make a good sowing now for winter use; thin out 
earlier sowings, and keep the hoe constantly going 
amongst them. 
Carrots. 
When there is likely to be a thin main crop, owing 
to the drought, a sowing may be made now on a 
border. Sow one of the early varieties and they 
will be found very useful during the winter. 
Lettuce. 
Sowings should now be made every fortnight, and 
care should be taken that some of the Cos varieties 
are tied regularly every few days to keep up the 
supply of good white heads. 
Celery. 
Keep the Celery well watered, and give a little 
nitrate of soda occasionally, if it is not growing fast 
enough.— G. H. S. 
-- 
dl^anittg# fnmt th% IDurttr 
The Bud Moth. —This is an insect closely allied 
to the Codlin Moth (Carpocapsa pomonella), but too 
well known on both sides of the Atlantic. Its 
scientific name is 'Imetocera ocellana, and is a 
European insect having been named and described 
in Austria in 1776 ; it made its appearance in the 
United States in 1840, and is now committing serious 
ravages in many counties of the State every year in 
May and June, when the leaf and flower buds are 
about to open. Its origin is credited to this part of 
the world, as in the case of the Codlin Moth and 
American Blight. It commences by eating the young 
leaves of the opening buds, webbing them together to 
secure shelter and fresh food. After this it very 
often burrows down the centre of the young shoot 
causing it to die back for several inches. In July a 
second brood of caterpillars commences work on the 
underside of the leaves near the midrib, eating away 
the parenchymatous portion, but leaving the ribs 
and upper surface intact. These injured leaves 
soon turn brown showing where the pest has been at 
work. 
A curious fact about the insect is that though it may 
hibernate upon the trees in large numbers in the 
caterpillar state, during the leafless condition of the 
trees, it is so securely hidden that ordinary observers 
fail to detect it. 
The Winter Home of the Bud Moth —Until 
as recently as 1885 it was supposed that the moth 
passed the winter in the egg stage; but about that 
time it was believed to pass the winter on the 
branches of the trees under a covering of silk. 
During 1891 and 1892 experiments and observations 
were made by the professors in charge of the Cornell 
University Experiment Station, as recorded in 
Bulletin 50, and the moth was carefully watched 
through all its stages. By the 1st November of last 
year not a single larva could be discovered upon the 
leaves, but upon carefully scrutinising the twigs which 
bore infested leaves, larvae were almost invariably 
found nestling in little depressions of the bark and 
neatly covered with a silken web. Several twigs 
were enclosed in nets to make sure whether these 
were the larvae of the Bud Moth or not, and the 
larvae left these silken cells on May 15th, and between 
that time and July 15th they had passed through all 
their stages to the perfect stage. The insect 
emerging from the pupae proved to be the typical 
Tmetocera ocellana; so that the question of its 
manner of passing the winter has been satisfactorily 
settled. When no cavities exist in the bark the 
larvae make one to secure the silken case for the 
winter. These cases are usually placed quite near a 
bud. 
Remedies and Preventions against the Bud 
Moth. —Previous to 1887 the only method of attack¬ 
ing the insect was to hand pick and destroy the nests 
containing the larvae in spring ; but by this time the 
leaves and flower buds had been greatly destroyed. 
The eggs cannot be destroyed by any application of 
an insecticide which would not destroy the leaves at 
the same time. When the larvae are feeding or sally 
forth to fresh ground they are protected by a silken 
web underneath which they carry on their work of 
destruction securely. Some of the larvae could be 
destroyed, however, by the use of Paris green at 
this stage at the rate of one pound to 200 gallons of 
water. 
The Paris green could be used in July in combination 
with the Bordeaux mixture .when spraying for fungi. 
In this case one pound of the Paris green to 150 
gallons of water in conjunction with the Bordeaux 
mixture would be sufficient. The most effective 
method of destroying it, however, as recorded by 
Bulletin 50 of the Cornell University Agricultural 
Station, is by spraying the trees with Paris green or 
London purple just as the buds are unfolding in 
spring and the larvae are leaving the silken cells in 
which they hibernated. Paris green is the best 
insecticide, and when used alone on the tender young 
foliage should not be made stronger than at the rate 
of one pound to 250 or 300 gallons of water. 
