July 22, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
745 
LAW NOTES. 
Royal Horticultural Society of Aberdeen v. 
Messrs. James Cocker & Sons, Aberdeen.— In 
our issue of April 8th last, we gave the decision of 
the Sheriff-Principal of Aberdeen, Banff, and Kin- 
cardineshires, in the case of Messrs. James Cocker 
& Sons, Aberdeen v. the Royal Horticultural Society 
of Aberdeen, in which the Messrs. Cocker sought to 
have the society ordained to receive various exhibits 
sent in by them, and intended for exhibition at the 
grand floral fete to be held in the Central Park, 
Kittybrewster, Aberdeen, in August last year, and to 
submit the same to the judges, in order that the pur¬ 
suers might get such of the prize-money as might be 
awarded them. The Messrs. Cocker had been con¬ 
nected with the society for many years, but in the 
spring of last year, Mr. Cocker, sen., disapproved of 
the new departure the society was making in taking 
their show from the Duthie Public Park, and holding 
it at Central Park,ultimately resigning his position as 
a director, and intimating his withdrawal of a contri¬ 
bution which his firm had promised towards the ex¬ 
penses of the show. The pursuers tendered their 
subscription some days after the last day fixed for 
payment, but it was returned to them by the 
directors, who further informed them that they could 
not accept their exhibits. Sheriff-Substitute Robinson 
found that the pursuers were barred from competing 
at the competition, as they had not paid their sub¬ 
scription within the stipulated time. He expressed 
his doubts as to the remedy sought, but explained 
that the defenders had waived that point. Defenders 
were found entitled to expenses. Sheriff-Principal 
Guthrie Smith, on appeal, recalled the interlocutor of 
the Sheriff-Substitute, and, although it was too late 
to pronounce an operative decree, he thought the 
action was properly brought, and found the defenders 
liable in expenses. 
The society carried the case to'the Court of Session 
in Edingburgh, and the Second Division has just 
given their decision, dismissing the action with 
expenses. The Lord Justice Clerk, who gave the 
leading decision, said the Messrs. Cocker had not 
sought the proper remedy, which was one of 
damages. An application before a Sheriff to have 
it ordered that certain plants should be put into a 
certain competition was unprecedented. As this 
show was to be held within six days of the applica¬ 
tion, it was quite impossible, even if the Court had 
jurisdiction, that any judgment could have been 
given effect to in time. Lord Young, who followed, 
remarked that, if the pursuers were wronged, they 
had their remedy in an action of damages. He did 
not see how the Court could deal with an application 
for specific performance. It was manifest that to 
have an order for specific performance carried out 
in this case was an impossibility. He hoped, how¬ 
ever, that the pursuers would not carry the action 
any further. 
-**«.- 
WHAT TO DO IH THE GARDEN. 
Poinsettias. —Cuttings for late blooming plants of 
Poinsettias may now be put in to root. They will 
make but small bracts as a rule unless the cuttings 
are very strong, but they will be very useful for the 
front benches of the conservatory or greenhouse 
where the temperature is kept up at night. 
Winter-flowering Begonias —Such things as 
B. semperflorens, B. s. gigantea carminea, and others 
of that class, as well as B. insignis, B. ascotensis, 
and the varied garden hybrids should now be in 
their flowering pots if a good display is expected 
from them. Growers would do well to turn their 
attention to Gloire de Sceaux as a winter-flowering 
subject, in view of the grand effect produced by some 
growers with them last winter. 
Jasminum gracillimum. —Encourage good 
growth in this plant, for the stronger the shoots are 
at present, the greater the quantity of flowers they 
will produce in winter. After the terminal shoots 
are cut off, side branches will shoot out and furnish 
very useful cut flowers. 
Allamandas. —A supply of flowers will continue 
to be produced up to autumn by A. Schottii 
Hendersonii if well situated with regard to light, but 
more particularly if planted out. Give it liberal 
supplies of weak liquid manure, and do not allow the 
branches to become overcrowded. 
Celosias and Globa Amaranthus. —Late 
batches of these should be encouraged to make 
growth by plenty of heat and moisture, but at the 
same time free ventilation. They could be best 
managed in a pit where they would be near the 
glass. 
Campanula isophylla. — The trailing habit of 
this plant makes it excellent for the front of the con¬ 
servatory. The white variety C. i. alba is even more 
choice ; but bath may now be propagated by cuttings 
of the short, flowerless shoots under a hand* glass. 
Keep the cuttings moist, but not too close, till they 
make roots, when they may be potted off separately. 
Peaches. —All the ventilation possible should be 
given to trees in the early houses from which the 
fruit was gathered some time ago. By the end of 
this month the lights may be taken off altogether, if 
they are moveable, in order to expose the foliage and 
wood to the sun by day and the dews by night. Do 
not neglect them in the matter of watering at the 
roots whenever they require it. Tie down all the 
extension shoots as well as those necessary for next 
year’s fruiting in the later houses, exposing the fruits 
as much as possible in order to colour them. 
Cucumbers for winter.— If these are to be 
grown in a house at present occupied by Cucumbers 
about past profitable bearing, the house should be 
cleared out, more especially if insects have become 
unduly established during the dry weather. Inside 
and out should have a thorough cleansing—glass, 
wood, and walls—using paraffin in the interior to get 
rid of the insects. Any necessary repairs, including 
the heating apparatus, that may be needed should be 
done at once, and the bouse left open night and day 
for two or three weeks, unless some other plants are 
to be accommodated there for a time. But in any 
case thorough ventilation should be given. 
Winter Onions— Ground should now be got 
ready for sowing this important crop. This may be 
done in the space from which an early crop has been 
gathered of anything except the Onion tribe. Trench 
the ground and manure heavily at the same time. It 
must be remembered that winter Onions do best in a 
perfectly exposed position, and the ground should be 
selected accordingly. After trenching, tread it firm 
and make a sowing about the first week in August in 
the north, and from the middle to the end of the 
month in the south. 
Vegetable seeds.— A sowing should be made in 
the first week in August of Ellam’s Early or Sutton's 
Imperial Cabbage for early spring use. Other kinds 
may be grown for succession where the requirements 
of the place demand it. Sow also Bath Cos and 
Hardy Green Hammersmith Lettuces, as well as 
curled Endive for autumn and early winter use. 
Planting Vegetables —With the abundant rain 
brought by thunder storms the ground is now in 
suitable condition for planting, so that no time should 
be lost in getting in good breadths of late Brussels 
Sprouts, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Savoys, and Cole- 
worts. Earth up the earlier plantings of the same. 
Parsley. —Sow Parsley in sheltered positions for 
winter use. A sandy soil suits it best in winter, as 
the roots are liable to die off in heavy clay soils. In 
the neighbourhood of smoky towns and iron smelting 
works, Parsley can hardly be depended upon for a 
supply in the open air, so that the sowing may be 
made anywhere, lifted in the autumn and put in 
frames or potted up. 
Late Peas. —These are thriving under the cooler, 
moister weather, but in case we should have a 
repetition of sunshine and wind it would be well to 
mulch the rows with some fairly decayed cow 
manure, which will not be blown about by the wind, 
making the place untidy. 
QuesciomTmD MsoieR?. 
Annuals for Spring Flowering. — Omega : For 
cut flowers in spring, sow in the first week of August 
such things as Myosotis dissitiflora; M. d. alba, M. 
sylvatica, and M. s. alba, both Forget-me-nots with 
blue flowers and white varieties of each. Others 
are Brompton and East Lothian Stocks, to be 
planted in sheltered positions in the autumn ; also 
some of the strains of dwarf yellow and brown 
Wallflowers, mixed Polyanthus, and choice 
strains of Primulas. The two latter should be sown 
in boxes and placed in frames, or covered with 
squares of glass till they germinate. Other things of 
a useful kind are lberis amara, I. umbellata, Collinsia 
verna, C. bicolor, Iceland Poppies in yellow, white, 
and orange hues. The latter should be very lightly 
covered. In all cases thin out the plants to proper 
distances in the autumn, or transplant them. 
Allamandas. — Crohn: We do not know of a 
white Allamanda ; all that we are acquainted with, 
except A. violacea and the new A. atro-purpurea, 
being yellow. A. violacea has reddish purple 
flowers, but is not so handsome as the others and is 
not much grown, though as free a bloomer as most 
of them. You would find Clerodendron Balfouria- 
num keep as free from mealy-bug as the Allamanda. 
If you were to clear all the other plants from under¬ 
neath the Stephanotis and syringe it well with a 
paraffin mixture you can get rid of the mealy-bug. 
Add a little soft-soap or some new milk to four 
gallons of water, and then a wine-glass full of 
paraffin, mixing the whole thoroughly. Keep it 
well agitated while syringing the plant, and about a 
quarter-of-an-hour afterwards syringe again with 
clean water. 
Lawn Grass Seed. — Delk : It would not be too 
late to sow grass seed, even in September; in fact it 
can be done at any time between this and the end of 
that month to advantage, provided it is done at a 
time when the weather is moist and showery, so that 
the seeds may be able to germinate and make some 
progress before winter. In dry or sandy soils, 
autumn sowing is preferable to spring sowing, as the 
grass gets established before drought sets in. 
Names of Plants — J. E.: i, Aconitum variega- 
tum, often called A. Napellus bicolor ; 2, Campanula 
persicifolia coronaria. Omega : Knotgrass (Poly¬ 
gonum aviculare). A. G.: 1, Echinops Ritro; 2, 
Centaurea dealbata; 3, Ononis matrix; 4, Cen- 
tranthus ruber. Delta : Enchanter's Nightshade 
(Circaea lutetiana. R. C. Kingston: The Purple¬ 
flowering Raspberry (Rubus odoratus). A. D : 
Spiny Restharrow (Ononis spinosa). W. Tittering- 
ton: 1, Onychium japonicum ; 2, Adiantum cunea- 
tum Pacottii; 3, Veronica Andersoni variegata ; 4, 
not sent; 5, Euonymus radicans variegata; t, 
Fuchsia procumbens ; 7, Artemisia vulgaris varie¬ 
gata ; 8, Campanula pumila alba; 9, Veronica 
repens; 10, Lonicera flexuosa aureo-retictlata. 
Henry Clark : Trichopilia Galeottiana. 
Neglected Lawn.— Ferns: The plant infesting 
the lawn is not wild Thyme, but Camomile 
(Anthemis nobilis). There is no way of killing the 
Camomile without killing the grass ; but if you are 
resolved to make the best of the present turf, you 
should go over it when moist after rain and pull out 
as much of the Camomile as you can with a peg or 
old knife. Then give it a sprinkling of nitrate of 
soda to encourage the growth of the grass, and roll 
it to make it firm and even. In August or Septem¬ 
ber, should the weather be moist, the bare places 
should be raked up and a good top-dressing of rich 
soil spread over the whole lawn. Then sow fresh 
grass or lawn seed, roll it, and keep the birds away 
till it germinates. It could be done in spring, but 
you would gain time by sowing in early autumn. 
Tomatos Diseased. — IV. IV. B.: The specimens 
you sent were affected with the Black Spot of 
Tomatos caused by a fungus named Cladosporium 
Lj’copersici. The treatment you have given ac¬ 
cording to your statement is right with regard to 
ventilation and watering, but still there will be a few 
cases of Black Spot notwithstanding the best of 
treatment. The fungus gets into the fruit by means 
of the decaying style of the young ovary, aided no 
doubt by moisture at that time. There is no means 
of killing the fungus as it lives inside the fruit, and 
the only thing you can do is to burn the affected 
specimens as soon as you see evidence of the spot. 
Nothing is gained by leaving the fruit till ripe, as the 
fungus is increasing and scattering its spores all the 
time. It might be of some service to remove de¬ 
caying blossoms just as the fruit is setting, to pre¬ 
vent the lodgement of moisture about the young 
fruits and the encouragement of the growth of 
spores. 
Dwarf Chrysanthemums.— Delta ; Growers of 
Chrysanthemums, in order to get dwarf plants, take 
the tops at various times from April onwards. Tops 
taken now ought to give very dwarf plants with 
blooms of fairly large size. You can, of course, 
increase the size of the blooms by disbudding, when¬ 
ever you can lay hold of the side buds, leaving only 
the terminal one. You could strike the cuttings 
now so as to give them time to fill their pots with 
roots. Later struck cuttings will have to be bloomed 
in smaller pots. 
Manure for Celery. — Delta : The best all-round 
artificial manure for Celery would probably be 
Thomson's. Directions would be given as to how 
to apply it, but you could not do wrong to sprinkle 
it on the surface and then water it down with a rosed 
watering pot. Nitrate of soda would furnish nitro¬ 
gen and prove a very quick acting manure. It will 
be in a crystallised state and should be thinly 
sprinkled over the ground around the plants and 
then watered as already advised. You may give 
other sprinklings at intervals of three or four weeks 
up to the middle of September. The first-named 
manure is an all-round fertiliser and would be most 
serviceable if the ground is rather poor or in any 
way light. 
Double Antirrhinum.— Sydney Dunning : The 
doubling is due to what is termed petalody of the 
stamens, that is, the stamens or part of them become 
changed into petals or into organs resembling parts 
of a corolla. Cases of this have been recorded as 
occurring in Antirrhinum, but we are not sure 
