January 14, 1893. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
313 
or black. The cross' or connecting lines are also 
very prominent, and the enclosed areas along the 
centre are yellow, while those towards the sides are 
white, and there is also a broad, white margin to the 
whole. The petals are ciliate on the margins and 
of a shining pale yellow with faint greenish lines 
along the lower longitudinal half, while the upper 
longitudinal half is heavily suffused with rose and 
densely spotted with the same colour near the base. 
The lip is also shining and suffused with rosy-purple 
in front and flesh-coloured behind with darker veins. 
The shield or staminode is flesh-coloured. The 
whole flower is bold and handsome, measuring5J in. 
across the petals, and owes its beauty to the clear¬ 
ness of the colours and the absence of brown. 1 he 
hybrid is flowering with Messrs. Pitcher & Manda, 
The United States Nurseries, Hextable, Swanley, 
Kent. 
Cypripedium Veitchio-Hookerse. 
The seed parent of this hybrid was C. superbiens, 
better known as C. Veitchi, and the pollen parent 
was C. Hookerae. The result is a hybrid with large 
flowers of considerable beauty, combining the char¬ 
acters of the two parents. The upper sepal is ovate 
and greenish with deeper green veins as in C. 
Hookerae, but the margin is white. The petals are 
spathulate, rather broad, and rosy purple upwards 
with deep purple spots on a green ground down¬ 
wards. The lip is deep purple and of large size. 
The leaves are oblong-elliptic and tassellated with 
grey on a dark green ground. The plant is of strong 
and vigorous constitution, and in this respect resem¬ 
bles the seed parent. We noted it recently in the 
collection of Messrs. B. S. Williams & Son, Upper 
Holloway 
Cypriped'um Adonis supenbum. 
Those who grow a collection of Cypripediums, be 
they hybrids or otherwise, know that no class of 
Orchids is capable of giving a more prolonged dis¬ 
play of bloom. Practically they are never out of 
bloom, because although some of the special season 
for their display yet there others together with 
hybrids which flower more or less at all seasons. 
The seed parent of C. Adonis superbum was C. Spicer- 
ianum which regularly commences to flower in 
autumn. The pollen parent C. Harrisianum itself a 
hybrid is by no means confined to autumn. The 
upper or dorsal sepal of the progeny is roundly 
obovate and white, suffused with pale green at the 
base and having a vinous purple midrib like the seed 
parent. In like manner the oblong petals are wavy 
on the upper margin, but in colour they recall those 
of C. Harrisianum, the upper longitudinal half being 
of a much darker brown than the lower. The lip is 
moreover of a rich and dark shining brown. The 
character of the leaves also shows the influence of 
hybridity inasmuch as they are long, strap-shaped, 
and tesselated as in C. Harrisianum, than which 
they are smaller. The leaves of C. Spicerianum are 
entirely without markings. The cross was effected 
in the nursery of Messrs. B S. Williams & Son, 
Upper Holloway. 
A Charming Group of Orchids. 
When in the West of England some weeks ago, I 
visited Mrs. Frith's gardens, Highlands, Minchen- 
hampton. The display of Orchids in bloom was 
both charming and interesting. It consisted for the 
most part of Cypripediums Odontoglossums, 
Lycastes, Cattleyas, and Dendrobes. Mr. Wilkin¬ 
son, who has been gardener at Highlands for many 
years, is an enthusiastic lover of Orchids.— J. McNab. 
A Visit to the Nurseries. 
I do not know anything likely to be more appre¬ 
ciated by or more instructive to a gardener 
than to send him the round of the leading nur¬ 
series. He will be a poor hand indeed if he 
does not pick up some knowledge that will prove 
to his own and, of course, to his employer’s 
advantage, for be it said to their honour 
there are few, if any, nurserymen, whether the gar¬ 
dener be a purchaser or not, but what are mosj 
pleased to show them round, and, what is more, will 
encourage and assist all in their power those that 
seek their advice on the culture of any plant that 
does not succeed with them at home.— C. 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN. 
Dipiadenias. —The old stems are in many cases 
commencing to push away into fresh growth and 
where such is the case the plants may be repotted, 
so that the young wood may derive advantage there¬ 
from. Where the plants are grown as a covering to 
the pillars of a house the young shoots may be tied in 
as they grow ; but at this season of the year it is 
highly advantageous to train them as near the glass 
as possible for the sake of the light. Plants in pots 
may therefore have such a position whenever 
possible. 
Caladiums.—Where good collections of Cala- 
diums exist a batch may now be started for early 
work. The smaller leaved kinds will be most service¬ 
able as they are more easily managed and kept in 
health than those with large leaves, which when 
tender and thin are easily damaged. 
Gloxinias. —Those who have not yet started an 
early batch will find this a convenient time to 
do so. The lengthening days give a fresh impetus to 
growth, making more substantial progress. If 
the old soil in the pots is very dry, give a watering 
to moisten it, after which occasional light syringing 
will be sufficient till the young shoots are sufficiently 
advanced for the tubers to be repotted. 
Ferns. —The present is a convenient time to ex¬ 
amine the fronds as to their cleanliness, especially 
those in the warm houses. Even when covered with 
scale it is a bad policy to cut them off, more especially 
if they are evergreen, as it materially affects the 
vigour of yre young fronds produced in the spring. 
The more leathery kinds may be sponged, but the 
more tender leaved kinds may be dipped in strong 
tobacco water, adding about an ounce of nicotine 
soap to each gallon of the liquid. Do not neglect 
them in the matter of watering, particularly those 
near the hotwater pipes. 
Tree Ferns. —Old specimens in course of time get 
too tall for the houses containing them. They may 
be lowered by cutting away the bottom part of the 
stem and repotting them in the tubs or pots. This 
can most safely be done with those species which 
produce roots all along the stems. Syringe the heads 
pretty frequently to prevent the fronds from flagging 
till fresh roots are developed to supply them with 
moisture. The fresh soil in the pots should not be 
kept in a wet state, otherwise it will get sour before 
roots are developed into it. 
Camellias.—Houses in which Camellias are 
largely grown should not be kept higher than 50° 
otherwise they will require frequent syringing to 
prevent them from casting their buds. A dry atmos¬ 
phere and a high temperature is often very 
prejudicial to such plants. 
Roof Climbers.—The borders should be 
examined before fresh growth sets in, and fresh soil 
given where it is worn out and inert. Such things 
as Passion-flowers and Tacsonias may receive a good 
thinning out of their shoots and the remainder 
regulated to reduce the crowding that would ensue 
when young growth is being developed. Flowers 
are produced on the young wood, so that the removal 
of the old will be no detriment to a full crop in the 
coming summer. The present opportunity may also 
be embraced to clear the stems of scale, by painting 
them with some insecticide after having brushed 
them well with a strong solution of soft soap by 
means of a hard, half-worn brush. 
Vin es.—The rods will now have grown sufficiently 
in most establishments to be tied into position. 
They will have experienced some check to the rapid 
growth they were making owing to the accession of 
severe weather recently, but it would be inadvisable 
to attempt hard forcing till more genial weather has 
fairly set in. Gradually tie down the young growths 
into position, never allowing them to touch the glass. 
Disbud as soon as it can be determined which are the 
best and most suitably placed shoots. 
Melons. —A sowing may now be made if the fruit 
is expected to be ripe by the end of April or soon 
after. Sow the seeds singly in 6o-size pots so as to 
avoid any check when potting off. Plunge the pots 
to the rim in fermenting materials or in the cocoa- 
nut fibre of a propagating pit. Keep them as near 
the glass as possible to prevent the stems getting 
drawn and thin. 
Cucumbers.—What applies to Melons will also 
apply to Cucumbers to a great extent in the early 
stages. Plunge in a brisk bottom heat with a night 
temperature in the body of the house of 65° or even 
higher when the weather outside is mild and the 
atmosphere clear, 
Fruit trees.—Take every advantage of frosty 
weather to wheel manure on to the fruit quarters. As a 
rule this department is greatly neglected in the matter 
of feeding, and yet the trees are expected to bear well. 
When the roots are near the surface feeding is 
more imperative than otherwise, but being within 
the influence of any manure that may be applied, 
nothing is lost. 
Questions add AnsoieRs. 
*,* Correspondents are requested, in order to avoid delay, 
to address all communications to “ The Editor ” 
or “ The Publisher," and not to any person by 
name, unless the correspondence is of a private 
character. Telegrams may be addressed “ Bambusa, 
London.” 
Odontoglossum crispum.— A.L.: The flower you 
sent is a very good form of the type, and finely 
spotted, but as a considerable number of them have 
been already named and described it would not be 
advisable to give a fresh name in this case, especially 
as it is so closely allied to O. c. guttatum ; in fact 
for the sake of distinction it may be so named, or its 
value be simply indicated by marks. There are 
several named O. c. guttatum differing to some ex¬ 
text in the size and number of blotches. Occasion¬ 
ally the grower adds the name of the owner or the 
name of his place, calling it so and so's variety, &c. 
Good King Henry. — Robert Wardlty : You may 
sow at once in a mild heat in moderately light sandy 
loam, or wait till spring, as you can hardly expect the 
plants to be fit for use in spring as the plant is 
perennial, and would come in more serviceable 
and give a greater quantity of produce during 
the spring ot the second and future years. It 
may even be sown in the open ground in April 
and thinned out to a foot apart each way if 
sown in beds. This will allow the plants to develop 
to useful size. Large plants might even be placed 
further apart by transplanting as they get to good 
size. The young leaves were used in the form of a 
salad in olden times, but more recently the stalks 
have been used as a substitute for Asparagus, as they 
come up strongly in spring. It is the Chenopodium 
Bonus-Henricus of botanists, is a British plant and 
perfectly hardy, so that you will not find the slightest 
difficulty in managing it. Sow or plant in good rich 
soil, so that the stalks may be strong and the leaves 
large and good. In fact it may be treated precisely 
the same as perennial herbs generally. 
Fruit Growing and Farming. — M. K. asks: 1. 
From fruit growing under glass in England is there 
only a livelihood to be made out of it or does it leave 
sufficient to put by yearly ; if so, on an average, how 
much ? 2. What capital and what size farm is 
generally necessary? [1. It entirely depends upon 
individual skill and business capacity. Given the 
same extent of glass and capital, one man might live 
where another would starve. " M. K." would proba¬ 
bly find himself among the starving division. 2. The 
same answer applies here also.— Ed.] 
The Cedar Tree. — Arbor: Your question is rather 
indefinite as to what Cedar you mean, because there 
are many of them. There are the Cedar of Goa 
(Cupressus lusitanica), White Cedar iCupressus 
thuyoides), Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus Libani), and 
several others which we need not specify. We 
suppose you refer to the last named, and which 
should be evergreen, but in severe winters it nearly 
loses all its leaves in the neighbourhood of London. 
It is fragrant, but some Cedars are more so. It cer¬ 
tainly supports itself with its own strength when in a 
healthy condition and the roots are perfect, but we 
have seen old trees that required support or props to 
keep them from falling. We are not certain whether 
it is attacked by any moth or not, but several Coni¬ 
fers such as the Pine trees which are often badly 
attacked by moths which destroy the foliage and 
other insects bore into the wood. We are not sure 
that the Cedar of Lebanon is entirely exempt in this 
respect, and we do not think that many of its good 
qualities you mention are not shared in by several 
other Coniferous or other trees. The ancient Greeks 
used the word Redros, and the Romans used Citrus 
when speaking of Cedar, Arbor Vitae and other 
resinous Coniferous trees the branches of which they 
used to put in their clothes’ chest to keep away 
moths from their woollen clothes; and possibly this 
is what you refer to. The Arbor Vitae was Thuya 
articulata, which in ancient times the Greeks and 
Romans introduced from Africa for the purpose 
mentioned as well as for the manufacture of costly 
tables. The Cedar of Lebanon, if included in this 
category by them, was not therefore unique in being 
used to drive away moths by its aromatic scent. 
Heading down Cherry Laurels. — Omega : 
Cherry Laurels, or common Laurels as you call 
them, may be headed down almost to any height you 
may desire, say from 6 in. to as many feet, according 
to their present condition and the effect you desire 
to produce. For instance, if you wish for a hedge 
about 3 ft. high, cut the stems down to 2 ft. so as to 
allow a foot of young growth to give the desired 
green appearance. If you desire to form a low 
covering to a bank, then you may cut down all the 
stems to within 9 in. or 12 in. of the ground. The 
plant is very accommodating in this respect, and we 
have frequently seen it severely headed down with 
perfectly satisfactory results afterwards. It should 
be done immediately after all danger of severe frost 
is over, say from the middle of March onwards, but 
we should not put it off too late, otherwise the young 
growths would not have sufficient time to ripen before 
next winter. 
Centigrade Thermometer. — Omega : The centi¬ 
grade thermometer commences at the freezing point 
of water and from thence to the boiling point of 
water the scale is marked off into ioo°. This is a 
more scientific principle than that on which the 
