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365 
ftt-Jtaur Sarteiwtj* 
WINTERING PLANTS IN CELLARS. 
We frequently see it recommended to winter certain 
half-hardy plants, Geraniums, etc., in cold pits or 
frames, and the possessors of these conveniences have 
reason for rejoicing, but at least a large majority of 
flower-lovers have to depend on the cellars, as a sub¬ 
stitute. In fact, for delicate people, or invalids, a 
cellar is more easily managed than pits or frames, as 
access can be had without exposure to the weather. 
Frames and pits need much care in the way of opening, 
airing and protecting from sudden or extreme changes 
of temperature, although the plants are more forward 
in the spring, when thus wintered. Most woody 
plants, such as Orange, Lemon, Oleander, Pome¬ 
granate, etc., will do perfectly well in an ordinary 
cellar, as they remain dormant till late in spring, 
while Roses, Pinks, Hydrangeas, and Jessamines, will 
start so much as to require removal to the upper 
regions at an earlier date. If one has 
a convenient room, at a temperature of 
about sixty or sixty-five, this is an ad¬ 
vantage, as it admits of Roses blooming 
in mid-winter and until spring, but I 
have always found them liable to red 
spiders, in a room sufficiently heated for 
my own comfort. In that case, I take 
one crop of buds, and then return them 
to the cellar again. Of late winters, I 
have been able to keep them back until 
about March, by giving the smallest 
possible quantity of water, and placing 
them in the coolest part of the cellar. I 
think more failures result from erroneous 
management, as regards watering, than 
from any other cause. If your plant is 
in a large pot or box, with a good deal 
of earth, never water just before placing 
in the cellar, but have the soil just a 
little moist, and only give from time to 
time just enough to keep the stems from 
shriveling, although with shrubs which, 
retain their leaves, such as Oleander, 
Orange, etc., a little more may be 
allowed. In fact, Oranges and Lemons 
should not be allowed to drop their foli¬ 
age at all, if it can be prevented. Their 
leaves are more liable to drop the first 
few weeks than afterwards. It is a. 
curious fact, that the green fruit on them 
will turn yellow, as if ripe, and when again removed 
to the open air, become gree,n again, and go on grow¬ 
ing. I have known fruit to remain in this manner 
over two winters. Towards planting time, water them 
well several times. 
Pomegranates need only the least possible quantity 
of water until near March. The time will vary a 
little, according to the warmth of the cellar. 
If the storage of vegetables, etc., demands a daily 
opening of outside doors, for a few minutes, it will be 
very beneficial to the plants, unless for a few days of 
the very severest weather. 
Some plants will winter perfectly well simply placed 
on the cellar bottom, without boxes or pots, and a 
little earth piled about their roots. The possessor of 
the most thriving Pomegranate I ever knew of, told 
me that she wintered it in this way. Abutilons and 
Oleanders can be thus treated, and then bedded out in 
spring. If rats or cats have access to the cellar, a 
little vigilance will be needful. 
Carnations, not needed for winter blooming, will do 
well in a cellar; all Zonales, and sometimes sweet- 
scented Geraniums, also. Of course, we should be 
glad to have them in the windows to enjoy, but if we 
are short of room, it is something to have a good 
stock forthcoming at gardening-time, even if'leafless. 
I have found plants in this state liable to sunburn the 
stalks, when first bedded, which about ruins them. If 
possible, they should be placed in a shaded situation, 
as early as the weather will allow, and hardened a 
little, before bedded out. It is better to risk a few 
pretty cool nights, than to wait until the sun gets too 
hot, I think. I usually shade, for a few days, with 
something on the side most exposed to the sun. Smile 
not, dear reader, but a few old shingles are invaluable. 
The pink Salvia, Fuchsias, and Feverfews, succeed 
admirably. I take cuttings of the latter, about the 
middle of September, when there are usually a good 
supply of unbudded branches, and, removing part of 
the leaves, place eight or ten in a small cigar-box, 
and set them in a shady place, and by cold weather 
they are well rooted, and make nice plants for bedding 
Picture Frames Decorated with Ferns. 
out. I think these much better than old plants, as 
the blooms are larger, though the old plants will live 
out in sheltered positions, and bloom very early. 
The Feverfew is so useful for cutting, and is so easily 
wintered, that it is best to have a good supply. 
Cacti will do pretty well, if occasionally brought 
upstairs, for a few days, so as to prevent damping off 
of the branches. They are subject to a rust- 
colored mildew, if allowed to remain too long at a time. 
Water should be withheld from them, except at these 
airings, when a little may be given them, but on no 
account have the soil wet when placed in the cellar. 
As soon as the leaf buds of Hydrangeas begin to 
swell, increase their water, as they are very thirsty 
plants, but beware of too early a removal to any place 
where they will be exposed to late frosts. In large 
city houses, there are frequently large sunny cellar- 
windows, almost equal to those of upper rooms, but 
these remarks are intended to apply more particularly 
to smaller cellars in country houses. Of course, the 
lighter and sunnier the cellar, the more water will be 
required. Beware, however, of applying too much at 
once even then. Little and often should be the rule. 
I take it for granted that citizens with sub-cellars have 
no place out-of-doors for plants, but if it were not for 
the gas, some might be kept even in those. I have 
wintered plants, many years since, in cellars wholly 
without windows. 
Tradescantias, Lophospernnus, Sedums, Deutzias, 
Lilies of the Valley, Dicentras, Astilbe, Jasmiuum 
Nudicaule, and many other hardy plants, may be 
potted and kept in the cellar until the buds begin to 
swell, and then brought into a warm room, when they 
will soon blossom nicely. 
I should here except the Tradescantia and Lophos- 
permum. Jasminum Nudicaule will be a sheet of 
bloom within a week or ten days. Lilies of the Valley 
may be forced at any time in winter, in this manner: 
Bring them up about three weeks before the flowers 
are needed, and put in as warm a spot as you have 
got. For the others, exercise a little care about too 
much heat, at first. Bulbs, when kept in a cellar, 
should be examined occasionally, to 
guard against both too much and too 
little moisture. Dahlia roots, if shrivel¬ 
ling too much, may be sprinkled very 
lightly with lukewarm water, but with 
Gladioli, Gannas, Tigridia, and Oxalis, 
the danger is apt to be from the other 
extreme. Paper bags, hung near the 
top of the cellar, and beneath the floor 
of a room where a fire is kept, afford 
admirable quarters for all these, except 
Dahlias. Jockey Club (Mirabilis nyctag 
in flora) will bear the most drying of any 
bulb I know of and come out all right. 
Vallota is better placed in a cellar than 
kept growing all winter. So, also, Cal- 
adium Esculentum. Here let me caution 
my readers not to trust Tuberoses or 
Achitnenes in an underground room. A 
dry, warm place is indispensable to 
them, especially the Achimenes. 
If a cellar affords a sunny South win¬ 
dow, Verbenas may be wintered in it 
very fairly. It is best to have a shelf 
placed so that the tops of the pots may 
come just below the lower edge of the 
window-ledge. This may be easily ef¬ 
fected by means of a hanging shelf, sus¬ 
pended by loops of strong cord or rope. 
I prefer boxes to pots for cellar use for 
Verbenas and many other small plants. 
Mice are sometimes troublesome, eating plants even 
when apples and vegetables are plenty. They are 
particularly fond of Tigridia bulbs and Carnations. 
Cats will also eat Carnations, apparently in lieu of 
grass and catnip. A Home Body. 
PASSION FLOWERS. 
The Passion Flower, or Flower of Passion, received 
its name from the early Roman Catholic missionaries, 
in South America, who found in them symbols of the 
crucifixion. They discovered a resemblance to the 
crown of thorns in the fringes of the flower. They com¬ 
pared the styles, with their capitate stigmas, to nails, 
the stamens to hammers with which to drive them, and 
the tendrils of the plant to cords. We have had a 
plant for three years, and last summer it bloomed for 
the first time. We noticed the first bud two weeks 
and a half before it blossomed. The flowers come out 
between 12 and 1 o’clock, begin to fade about 10 the 
next day, and close early in the afternoon. M. R. T. 
