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HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. 
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CRASSULA PERFOLIATA. 
Half-hardy annuals are such as require start¬ 
ing under glass to get large plants before the weather 
gets warm enough to plant them out of doors, so that 
their full beauty may be seen before they are de¬ 
stroyed by the early fall frosts. There are also some 
growing- 
kinds which are hardy enough 
seeds sown into the places where they are to remain 
during summer, but being of so slow growth that, to 
hasten their flowering season, it is advisable to start 
early in the season, and then plant into the garden 
for flowering. A hot-bed is the best place for start¬ 
ing seeds in ; but where only a few are wanted and 
the means are limited for having a liot-bed, they 
may be sown in a pot or box and placed in a warm 
window. Some who use hot-beds sow the seeds into 
the soil placed on the surface of the manure ; but I 
prefer sowing them in boxes, as I think they vege¬ 
tate sooner and are less liable to damp off than when 
sown right into the soil. Use shallow boxes, about 
two and a half inches deep and just large enough to 
conveniently handle. For soil a sandy loam and 
well-decayed leaf-mold is the most suitable. Upon 
no consideration bury the seeds deep, especially 
small ones—such as Coxcombs and Lobelia—and be¬ 
fore sowing such small seeds give the soil a good 
watering, for, unless carefully done after sowing, 
they are apt to be washed to one end of the box, and 
some of them get too deeply covered, and therefore 
destroyed. Generally one good watering before the 
seeds are sown will be sufficient until they vegetate 
if a piece of board or glass is put over the box to 
prevent evaporation. Do not, however, keep the 
board on the box close after they have vegetated, 
as they will grow weakly if kept too dark. Also 
guard against the sun shining too brightly upon 
them. 
Previous to planting all kinds of plants out of 
doors which have been started under glass, they 
should be well hardened-off by full exposure day and 
night for some time. A good many plants are de¬ 
stroyed by being planted into the open ground with¬ 
out being sufficiently hardened after coming out of 
the warm, moist temperature in which they were 
started. 
Balsams. —The seeds of Balsams should be sown 
about the end of March or beginning of April, and 
kept warm, as they are very tender. After they 
have made their second leaves, transplant them into 
other boxes or pots, if wanted for decorating the 
greenhouse, for which they are very suitable, and, if 
supplied with plenty of moisture and good rich soil, 
make beautiful specimens. If for out-door orna¬ 
ment, do not set out until the ground gets warm and 
all danger of frost is past, and give good rich soil, 
and their free-blooming and delicate flowers will 
amply repay good culture. The variety called Sol- 
ferino is finely striped with lilac and scarlet on a 
white ground. The camellia-flowered kinds, both 
tall and dwarf, are of different colors, perfectly 
double, and for general purposes are the best in cul¬ 
tivation. 
In California this plant is not as well known as it 
should be. It is a window or greenhouse succulent, 
and if properly treated will yield a profusion of blos¬ 
soms in the latter part of November, and continue 
to do so till the first of January. Even at this date 
it does not completely discontinue to open its small 
white, star-like flowers, but sometimes spring has 
fairly opened before its last raceme has faded away. 
The flowers are borne in large clusters ; very often 
as many as ten or twelve of them will be on one 
stalk, and we have had, this winter, on three-year- 
old plants, no less than two dozen of these stalks. 
In some of the European countries, where much 
taste is displayed in decorating, the flowers are em¬ 
ployed in embellishing rooms, in making bouquets 
and wreaths, for all of which they are found to be 
well adapted, as its flowers remain fresh a long time. 
No trouble will be experienced when the proper 
soil is used to have a pleasing display of hanging- 
baskets and pots placed on brackets or shelves con¬ 
taining one or more Crassulas with their branches 
falling over the sides, which will in a couple of years 
completely hide the pot. 
This truly valuable plant should not be left out of 
our amateur collection of window plants, for its cul¬ 
ture is easy, and it will grow in any position where 
there is an exposure to the sun. The profusion of 
flowers will well repaj he little time bestowed in 
keeping them watered. The best results are obtained 
by giving them a full southern exposure, for they 
will not bloom satisfactorily in any other situation. 
When blooming season approaches water should 
be given sparingly, but in no case let them suffer 
for the want of it. By having the plants “ root 
bound” they yield a greater profusion of flowers. 
For plants three years old from cuttings a seven or 
eight inch pot will be large enough. One-year-old 
plants grow and bloom in three or four inch pots. 
When planted in any other soil than that con¬ 
taining much sand the roots seem to decay and the 
plants rarely grow, and send forth few or no flower- 
stalks. A soil that will grow healthy Fuchsias, He¬ 
liotropes, or, in fact, any good potting soil, with the 
addition of about one-fourtli of beach sand, is the 
best for this succulent. 
At the close of the flowering season all faded shoots 
should be cut away, trim the plants into good shape, 
and, if necessary, repot with fresh earth. Should 
they be too much root-bound shift into a larger size 
pot. After this change give but little water till they 
are started into new growth, after this no fear may 
be had of giving them the usual amount. 
If the plants have been kept through winter in the 
house, bay-window, or in a greenhouse, they may be 
placed in the open air during spring and summer, 
though in no case turn them out of the pot into the 
open border. 
CULTURE OF THE CALLA LILY. 
I have been thinking that an article on the Callas 
might be beneficial to some of the many readers of 
your valuable and interesting paper. Although 
many have written on the same subject, I wish to 
give you my treatment of and success with them. 
The Calla should be in every collection of winter¬ 
blooming plants, both for the home and the green¬ 
house. I admit that the flower has no perfume; but 
the pure white spatlie, as it stands up so grand 
among the bright green foliage, is beautiful to look 
upon and is admired by all lovers of flowers. It is 
not like many other kinds of flowers, which look well 
for a short time and then are done blooming for the 
season. The flower of the Calla will last for a long 
time, if it is properly attended to. 
Having had quite an experience in growing the 
Calla, and meeting with good success, I will give my 
way of culture. I let my plants bloom until May in 
the greenhouse. Then they are put under the stage, 
in a shady and dry place, each pot laid upon its side 
and left in that position during the summer, as they 
will live without any water during the time they are 
having a rest, which I think is best after blooming 
all winter. But if you should want a few flowers 
during the summer, you can leave a half-dozen plants 
for that purpose. Set them in a rather shady place 
and give plenty of water, and you will find that the 
Calla will bloom in summer as well as in winter. 
The plants are left in their position in the greenhouse 
until August. Then they are taken out of the pots, 
and the old earth shaken from the roots, and divided 
if they are too thick; and then repotted in fresh soil. 
Thoroughly scrub the pots, inside and out, before re¬ 
potting them. The kind of soil that I use is well- 
rotted manure from liot-beds and good garden soil, 
with some sand to make the soil a little loose. It 
should be run through a sieve and well mixed to¬ 
gether, equal parts of each. The size of pots depends 
altogether whether you want large flowers or small. 
I find the larger the pot the larger flowers I have; 
but if you want small Callas, use smaller pots. I 
read a short article a few days ago on the Calla, 
which stated that if you wanted to have plenty 
of flowers you must have them in small pots and in 
poor soil. I cannot agree with the writer on the 
small-pot and poor-soil question; for, judging from 
what I have seen of the Calla, I think they want good 
soil and plenty of room in the pots. 
Through the winter I water my plants every day, 
never letting the soil get dry in the pots. They re¬ 
quire a great deal of water, and once a week I give 
them manure-water, which can easily be made by 
taking an old barrel, and put in it about a bushel of 
cow-droppings ; then fill it full of water and stir it up 
when you want to use. Do not be afraid that it will 
hurt them. I have used it too often not to know. 
You will find that you will have some fine flowers, 
that will pay you for your trouble. I saw some 
plants last spring that were in eighteen-inch pots, 
and thejr had from six to ten flower-stalks on each 
plant. So I think that shows that large pots will 
not hurt them. I have been told that a good way to 
make the Calla bloom is to set the pot into hot water 
and steam the roots. I have never tried it, and do 
not think I shall. I have all the blooms I want 
without such treatment. The Callas should be kept 
in a warm place and have plenty of light and sun; 
and if so treated they will yield plenty of bloom, to 
cheer you and your friends through the long winter 
months.—J. F. T., in “ Cultivator and Country 
Gentleman .” 
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