*82 
s tie 
4oLdies 
l oral 
u riil iPictaiml S 
amp. 
iomjmruafi. 
WINDOW GARDENING. 
By Anna Griscom. 
(This article received second prize.) 
All tlie exposures for plants that vary from the east 
to the west, and even a little to the northwest, may 
he included as available for window culture. The 
east and south, with the exposures between them, are 
of course the best, but western windows, and those 
even somewhat to the northwest, have been used with 
much success. A northern window is useful, chiefly 
for Ferns, Coleus, some Fuchsias, and to winter shade- 
loving plants. I append a list of plants suitable for 
growing in different exposures. 
Next in importance to exposure is heat; and on the 
kind of heat depends the sorts of plants that can be 
cultivated. Furnace heat, coal stove heat, wood stove, 
or open wood fire, are all good in their way ; even the 
warmth from a chimney, in a sunny room, has been 
made to produce charming flowers. 
With dry heat, it must be remembered, that water¬ 
ing over head, once a week at least, must be regularly 
attended to, or no success will follow. Saucers filled 
with water, or well-dampened sand placed among the 
plants, freshen the atmosphere for them. 
Should the windows have large cracks, which let in 
a draft, around or over the flowers, they must be 
closed with cotton, paper, or gutta-purcha stripping. 
Cold currents of air are very injurious to plants, and 
often check their efforts to bloom. 
Plants, in the winter, should never be aired by a 
draft on them, or over them, no matter how mild the 
day may be, as they are liable to be chilled and some¬ 
times killed thereby. 
Double paper curtains of newspaper lapped at the 
edge, and tacked or pasted, should be kept to place be¬ 
tween the windows and the plants during cold nights, 
and while the frost remains on the windows during the 
day. Paper is a much better protection than woolen, 
or cotton, or even silk. I have tried all. 
Any kind of pot may be used that the cultivator 
fancies, as we have seen equally healthy plants in 
glazed-ware, wood, earthen, terra-cotta and tin. 
Good drainage should always be provided, cover¬ 
ing the bottom of the pot for an inch or two, according 
to the habit of the plant. The best for this are pieces 
of charcoal, then oyster shells broken fine. Broken 
pots are often used, in bits from an inch or two square 
to the size of beans. Clam shells can also be used, 
broken bones, and even brick and pebbles. There are 
decided objections to pots with the drainage holes 
placed at the sides, for they do not serve the purpose 
intended. 
As regards earth, it is best to use the greatest care, 
and best preparation that can be made. We have 
seen a plant so changed in size and beauty, by a ju¬ 
dicious change of earth, and the necessary repotting, as 
to be beyond the recognition of its original owner. 
Keep both pots and saucers clean, and stir up the 
ground once a month. It is best, when purchasing or 
receiving plants, to ascertain from the florist the kind 
of earth required for the plant. It is of more import¬ 
ance, however, for the cultivator to study for himself, 
and watch the growth of one plant in different kinds 
of earth, so that she may learn for herself, as we fre¬ 
quently see the same kind of plant flourishing in very 
different soils. 
In order to apply water to the plants with judg¬ 
ment, the habits of the plant should be studied. If-no 
knowledge can be gained in regard to it, try it with a 
moderate quantity, then experiment, using more or 
less, as the judgment dictates. It is very important in 
house culture that the plants should be washed and 
watered overhead regularly, and even turned on one 
side, or upside down, in order to reach the under side 
of the leaves, to free them from insects and dust. If 
they cannot be carried to a bath tub or sink, a tub of 
water can he used, in which the plant can be dipped up 
and down, the earth being kept in by a piece of paper or 
a cloth. For sprinkling, a whisk, a brush, or a sponge 
may be used. 
It is best to use tepid or water warm to the hand, in 
winter. On Callas, hot water has been used with ex¬ 
cellent effect; also on Cacti. Dish-water, wash-suds," 
manure-water, guano-water, glue-water, are all good 
stimulants, if used moderately. One-third of chamber- 
slops diluted with two-thirds water is excellent for 
Cacti, used twice a week; also for Amaryllis, used 
once a month. This, also in full strength, will start 
roses into bloom that have remained a long time with¬ 
out blooming. 
An ancient “ flower sister” once said, “Plants are 
like children, if you neglect them they soon show it.” 
The price of thrifty plants is “ eternal vigilance.” It 
requires loving care, to have lovely plants. This is 
most evident when insects abound, against which 
there must be perpetual war, if we would not see our 
plants perish before us. That common pest, the green 
aphis, which attacks the ends of the tender shoots, is 
most readily disposed of by keeping on hand, in a tub 
or bucket, a rather strong infusion made by pouring 
hot water over tobacco stems. Into this dip the plant, 
while infested, every two or three weeks. The earth 
worm is another constant and very injurious pest. If 
one plant among thrifty ones is seen to droop, or stop 
growth, it may be concluded “there is a worm in the 
mud.” 
The best plan to be rid of them, in pots easily 
handled, is to knock the plant out of the pot, by turn¬ 
ing it upside down, and gently striking the edge or 
top of the pot on some hard substance, previously 
placing the left hand over the earth, and around the 
plant, when the intruder may generally be seen on 
the inside of the ball of earth. This is especially the 
case either after a liberal watering or a period of dry¬ 
ness ; after the latter, they are generally rolled into 
little pink knots. To expel them from large pots, 
water them with strong soapsuds once a week and they 
will soon be exterminated. For the red spider, a 
regular atmosphere, and frequent showering over and 
under the leaf, is the best remedy; the next best is 
flour of sulphur dusted over the under side of the leaf. 
This is also good for the thrip, a little black midge 
like insect. 
LIST OF PLANTS THAT MAY BE CULTIVATED IN 
DIFFERENT EXPOSURES. 
For an eastern, or from that to a southern, expos¬ 
ure, with dry heat, you may cultivate (always provid¬ 
ing that plants are washed once a week), Bouvardias, 
Bulbs, Zonale Geraniums, Cactus, Hoya, or Wax 
Plant, Begonias (winter blooming), Oxalis, Yalotta, 
Linum trigynum, Lily of the Valley, Salvia, Pelar¬ 
gonium, Leaf plants, Aspedistra folia variegata, Ma- 
ranta, Zebrina, Callas, or Richardii, Crassula, Poin- 
settia pulcherrima, Nierembergia, Amaranths, Allium 
(blue or white), Clerodendron, Amaryllis, Narcissus, 
Cissus discolor, Eucharis, Cissus amazonica, Lan- 
tana Ipomea, Bridal Rose, Cuphea, Echeveria, Wat- 
sona, Strelitzia regina, Ruellia, Plumbago, Coboea 
Scandens, Sweet-scented Geranium. 
For sunny windows, with wood fire: Abutilon, 
Roses, Alliums, Ixia, Sparaxis, Iris, Calla, Oxalis 
rosea, alba and yellow, Hyacinths, Yellow Flax, Lily 
of the Valley, Passion Vine, Nerine, Valotta, Cycla¬ 
men, Leaf plants, Amaryllis Johnsouii, Azalea, Bou- 
vardia, Browallia (blue and white), Cactus, Cuphea, 
Cineraria, Lilium auratum, Pelargoniums, Daphne, 
Winter-blooming Fuchsia, Chinese Primrose, Helio¬ 
trope, Vines, Tropaeolum (Bignohia picta), Calceola¬ 
ria, Ruellia, Plumbago, Bridal Rose, White Jessa¬ 
mine, Yellow Jessamine, Myrtle Veronica, Babronia, 
Mahernia, Alstromeria. 
Sunny windows, with little heat: Roses,* Camellia, 
Chinese Primrose, Browallia (blue and white), Lily of 
the Valley, Pinks, Deutzia (forced), Feverfew, Ver¬ 
benas, Ixia, Tritoma, Sparaxis, Narcissus, Oxalis 
rosea and alba, Vinca, Tulips, Hyacinths, Alstromeria, 
Plumbago, Zonale Geraniums, Abutilon, Lilium Au¬ 
ratum and other Japan Lilies, Lilium longiflorum, 
Yellow Flax, Nierembergia, Morning Glory, Balloon 
Vine, Crocus, Scilla, Heliotrope, Sweet Alyssum, 
Variegated Alyssum. 
Western windows, with dry heat: Amaryllis, Calla, 
Zonale Geraniums, Cineraria, Heliotrope, Fuchsias 
(winter-blooming), Vinca (white and pink), Wax 
Plant, Cactus, German Ivy, Winter-blooming Pinks, 
Aspedistra variegata, Maranta zebrina, Alliums, 
Calla, Echeveria. 
Western windows, vith little heat: Fuchsias, Zo¬ 
nale Geraniums, Chinese Primrose, Vinca, Pansies, 
Pinks, Lily of the Valley, Ixia, Sparaxis, Tritoma, 
Tulip, Hyacinth, Scillq, Lilium, Rose Geranium, 
Heliotrope. 
* Eoses trim down as soon as they are over their first bloom; new 
shoots will start and bloom. 
To Keep Plants Without a Eire at Night.— 
I have kept many plants nicely all winter without any 
fire at night, in the following manner: Have made, 
of wood or zinc, a tray of any size — you may need 
it about four inches deep, with a handle on either end, 
water tight—paint it outside and in, put in each cor¬ 
ner a post as high as the tallest of your plants, and it 
is ready for use. Arrange your flower pots in it, and 
fill between them with sawdust; this absorbs the 
moisture falling from the plants when you water them, 
and retains the warmth acquired during the day, 
keeping the temperature of the roots even. When 
you retire at night spread over the posts a blanket or 
shawl, and there is no danger of their freezing. The 
tray can be placed on a stand or table and easily 
moved about. Z. J. Blakeslee. 
Cactus. —Will Marion oblige me with a little in¬ 
formation about the Cactus % In the Cabinet for 
September I noticed a letter from her in which she 
mentioned the Rattail Cactus, and would like to know 
what age it is before it blooms, and what sort of 
bloom. I have had one nine years, and wish to know 
if it is time for it to bloom, or not — is it worth keep¬ 
ing ? And another one that I can’t tell whether to 
call a Turk’s Head or Balloon, as I have heard it 
called by both names; but I don’t know what kind of 
bloom either of them have, and would be very thank¬ 
ful to any one who would take the trouble to enlighten 
me. Fern Leaf. 
Sweet Violet. —The following is an answer to 
Aunt Carrie’s question on Sweet Violets: Plant 
your Violets in a good strong soil made rich with fowl 
manure, give them plenty of water mornings, not too 
much sun, and keep them in a cool place. If this 
rule is adopted you will find your Violets will grow 
very rapidly, and blossom freely. I have Violets, and 
tried most everything to make them grow, but in vain ; 
until I tried the above rule, which is one of my own, 
which made them shoot out beautiful, and are now 
full of buds. Mrs. L. M. Short. 
C. 
