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This cottage, designed by Mr. R. G-. Hatfield, 
architect, of New York, is intended to be located upon 
a sharp declivity where a fine view, either upon a 
river or extended valley, is to be had from the lower 
side. 
It has, therefore, a road front and a river front—the 
former having the entrance porch extended out beyond 
the line of the house, to answer the purpose of aporte- 
coehire, and the latter provided with an ample veranda 
connected with the lower lawns by a flight of steps. 
On the principal story floor the entrance is on the 
south side of the central gable, into a large stairway 
hall, 15 x 16 feet, from which doors open into all the 
rooms. At the center is the parlor, which extends out 
on the river front, and by its end and side windows 
affords a view either up, down or across the water; the 
size of this room is 16 x 22 feet. 
The parlor opens at the left into 
the library, which is 14 x 16 feet, 
and has a bay window at the 
south end; and at the right 
into the dining room. This 
room is 15 x 18 feet, and opens 
in front into a pantry, 10 x 16 
feet, containing a dumb waiter 
descending into the basement, a 
private stairs leading down to 
basement and up to second story, 
cupboard, shelves, etc. All the 
windows opening on the veranda 
should descend to the floor. 
The second story contains six 
rooms. Over the parlor is the 
principal chamber, which is 16 
x 22 feet, and has three corner 
closets. This opens into a small 
child’s room, on the left, which 
is 7x9 feet. The three other 
small bedrooms are 8 x 14, 8.6 
x 15, and 8.6 x 9 feet, respec¬ 
tively. The bath room is in the 
stairway hall, and is 6 x 11 feet; 
it contains the bath and water 
closet. 
The basement contains, on the 
right, the kitchen, 14.6 x 17.6, 
provided with pantry, closet and store-room in front; 
at the centre the laundry, with wash trays, closet, 
stove, etc.; on the left, the cellar for fuel, etc.; and 
in front, a passage containing a water closet, the 
furnace, etc. There are two exterior doors, one open¬ 
ing from the cellar, and one from the kitchen. 
The side of the basement towards the river is entirely 
above ground. The height of basement is 8 feet; of 
first story, 10 feet; and second floor, 8i feet in the 
clear when finished. The walls of the basement, 
where against the ground, should be built of stone, 
and the side where above ground, towards the river, 
may be of brick. Above the basement the building is 
of wood, but should be filled in with brick to the roof ; 
as its position is evidently one of great exposure in 
winter, and it could scarcely be made comfortable 
without. The detail of the finish, both on the exterior 
and interior, is intended to be plain, leaving the good 
effect to depend rather upon good proportion than em¬ 
bellishment. The cost would depend upon local ad¬ 
vantages, and would average $5,000. 
In reply to Hannah Owens, in the March Cabinet, 
I would say, that I have successfully kept all kinds of 
Pinks, including the Heddewigii varieties, by driving 
three or four shingles into the ground close to the 
plants, letting them meet or nearly so, at the top, 
throwing coarse manure, which has more -or less straw 
in it, over them. This plan answers also for Canter- 
| bury Bells, Digitalis, and in fact, all perennials that 
1 keep their leaves through the winter; the shingles keep 
the manure from rotting the foliage that ought to live 
through the cold weather, and the commonest Pinks 
are the better for such protection. Then in the spring 
they can be uncovered gradually; first making a hole 
in the top of the mound, then removing the covering 
by degrees, as the weather permits. Carnations should 
be treated as biennials, that is, raised from seed every 
year, for it does not pay to keep them but one winter. 
The most tender varieties will live out of doors, the 
first winter, if raised from seed, and blossom beauti- 
out, no matter how small, is placed a strip of stout 
brown paper, pinned together to form a ring; they 
should be two inches high, and just pushed into the 
ground enough to keep them steady, and the circles 
should be as small as the plant will allow, for fear the 
worms should come up within the enclosure which 
rarely happens. Double the paper, unless very strong, 
and use large pins; they keep the circles in shape when 
it rains. By this method the cut worms became so 
hungry in my garden last year, that they were actually 
driven to eat weeds, a very unusual occurrence, that 
must have seriously wounded their feelings. As the 
Lilies and Gladiolus come up, we protect them in the 
same way. This paper plan is not infallible, but will 
save ninety plants out of a hundred; which is better 
than the wholesale destruction the pests have caused 
in this vicinity for the last three years. Early one 
morning, last June, I did find a large worm setting up 
on the top of one of my paper circles, placidly eating 
into a Gladiolus stalk, but it was the only case.'of the 
kind, and he must have been an uncommonly intelli¬ 
gent specimen, almost worthy 
of a better fate than the crema¬ 
tion he received in my kitchen 
stove. Mrs. F. N. B. 
River Cottage. 
fully in their second summer, but if they do survive a 
second winter’s cold, they bloom at the end of long 
straggling branches, and are shiftless looking plants, 
such as make an orderly woman’s eyes ache ; it is better 
to have young plants every year. Every one who 
cares enough for flowers to raise Verbenas and Phloxes, 
should raise Carnations and Picotees, they grow more 
easily from the seed, can be transplanted between flow¬ 
ering plants, and will take up but little room the first 
season, and bloom beautifully the second. As to 
Monthly Roses, placing them in the cellar in pots, late 
in the fall, and bringing them up stairs early in April 
to start, seems to be the best way to keep them, and it 
is not a very satisfactory method either, for before the 
leaves come out, they are not handsome parlor plants. 
I have tried Daisy Eyebright’s plan, of covering them 
with sods, out of doors, but the weight of the sods 
broke the shoots off, and they were ruined. 
I should like to tell E. R. Allen, of Chicopee Falls, 
Mass., of my plan for preventing the destruction of 
plants by cut worms. Around every plant that is set 
Pelargoniums. —I am a great 
admirer of the Pelargoniums, 
but do not succeed as I desire in 
cultivating them. 1. Which is 
the proper season for rooting 
them from cuttings ? 2. Do 
they branch, or are they inclined 
to be slender? 3. When should 
Ice Plant seed be sown for a 
summer basket ? 4. What is 
the name of the Ivy, a leaf of 
which I enclose ? I have a very 
handsome and large one trained 
over a rustic frame, and it is 
much admired. 5. Why is it 
that my Coleus plants die in the 
wiuter, they are kept in a pot 
under ground, but get sun and 
light ? 6. Can any one tell me 
how to treat the Artillery plant, 
to prevent its rotting or drying 
up ? Mine was the admiration of 
many observers, when suddenly 
I found one rotting, and the other 
wilting. I removed them both, 
gave the former very little water, while the latter, as 
I thought, required much, but they both soon died. 
S. W. E. 
Ansiver .—In the spring in hot-beds, and autumn in 
cold frames. 2. The plants will branch if pinched, 
and cut down in the autumn. 3. In April. 4. No 
leaf came to hand. 5. Damp and cold. 6. The same 
cause; these plants require a temperature of not less 
than fifty at all times. 
Cypripedium Insignis. —Permit me to inquire 
through the Cabinet how to treat the above Orchid. 
I bought one last fall in bud, the buds fell off, and the 
plant does not grow. I filled a six-inch pot two-thirds 
full of charcoal, and set the plant in leaf mould and 
sand. Also can Euphorbia Splendens be propagated 
by cuttings, and is spring the propertime ? Pansy. 
Answer .—Pot the plant in loam, and as the roots 
are probably dead, give but little water until fresh 
roots are made. Euphorbia can be propagated from 
cuttings, at any time. 
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