To Sdnga-Tanga and Back. 137 
at the exceedingly rude and unseemly conduct of 
their Utangani. Angflah followed chattering till 
he had learned all the novelties; at last he 
dropped aft, growling much, and promising to 
receive me at Sanga-Tanga next morning—not as 
a friend. On our return, however, he prospected 
us from afar with the greatest indifference; we 
were empty-handed. There has been change 
since the days when Lieutenant Boteler, passing 
along this shore, was addressed by the canoe-men, 
“ I say, you mate, you no big rogue ? ship no big 
rogue ? ” 
At 5 p. m. we weathered Point Dyanye, gar¬ 
nished, like Nyonye, with a threatening line of 
breakers ; the boat-passage along shore was about 
400 yards wide. Darkness came on shortly after 
six o’clock, and the sultry weather began to look 
ominous, with a huge, angry, black nimbus dis¬ 
charging itself into the glassy livid sea north¬ 
wards. I suggested landing, but Langobumo was 
positive that the storm had passed westwards, and 
he objected, with some reason, that in the outer 
gloom the boat might be dashed to pieces. As 
we had not even a stone for an anchor, the plea 
proved valid. We guided ourselves, by the fitful 
flashes of forked and sheet lightning combined, 
towards a ghostly point, whose deeper blackness 
silhouetted it against the shades. Suddenly the 
boat’s head was turned inland; a huge breaker, 
