10 
Ih* RURAL NEW-YORKER 
January 5, 1924 
From the Grower to the Sower 
H ARRIS’ SEEDS are sold direct to market growers or 
private gardeners and farmers at wholesale prices. They 
are not sold to other dealers. 
Quality first —No expense, time, or pains is spared to make 
Harris’ seeds the standard for quality. They must not only 
grow, but they must produce the right variety and of the 
highest type. To get seeds of this class requires the most 
intensive selecting and breeding methods. 
The most successful market gardeners use Harris’ seeds 
because they know they can depend upon them to produce 
vegetables or fruits of the quality their trade requires. 
H ere are a few of the 
good things—Send for free 
catalog and see the rest 
Golden Acre Cabbage ^ on e d a e ; f i u ‘ 
variety, earlier than Jersey Wakefield and has 
round solid heads larger than that variety. 
Every plant makes a good head and they are 
just alike. Undoubtedly the best variety for 
the early crop. 
King of Denmark Spinach f n a d m j* d _ 
troduced by us a few years ago. This spinach has proved far superior to other 
kinds. It matures as soon as other varieiies, but remains in good condition two 
weeks after the others have gone to seed. 
Harris’ Earliest Pepper ™ e , 
pepper grown. With this variety anyone can have 
plants of peppers in the garden. 
Harris' New Early Giant Pepper £ 
large , early pepper, remarkably prolific. 
Whipple's New Yellow Sweet Corn 
Earlier than Golden Bantam and much larger. A 
money-maker for the market grower. 
Whipple's Early Sweet Corn ’^eli 
early variety. Looks like Evergreen and matures three weeks earlier. 
P/i-rcnin Grown f rom transplanted and selected roots. 
riUTrio Ifiouei T Ulollip Perfectly smooth and of uniform shape. A 
very superior strain. 
Harris’Pedigree Tomatoes u„T 
very carefully bred strains of 
Bonny Best, John Baer, etc., 
that produce perfectly smooth, well-colored fruit. These strains are used by the 
best market gardeners and larger canners, because they find them the best. 
Harris' Pedigree Potatoes 
Raised from seed selected from the best 
yielding hills, and carefully inspected 
and field freed from all diseased plants 
—A step beyond “Certified seed.” 
Washington Asparagus 
Rants We are Iar S e g rowers °f both 
l\UULo roots and seed 0 f the New 
Washington strains, which are larger 
than other kinds and disease resistant. 
Superior Farm Seeds 
We have long made a specialty of 
raising high-grade farm seeds, and 
can offer superior varieties of Barley, 
Buckwheat, Oats, Corn, etc. 
Our Northern grown corn is much earlier, and therefore, much safer to 
plant in the North than corn raised further South or in the West. 
A DC A! TCCT Harris’ seeds are tested to find out how many will grow 
I LJ 1 and t [j e resu it f s marked on the label of each lot we sell. 
When the purchaser gets the seeds he can tell just how thick to sow each kind. 
Many seedsmen advertise “tested seeds” but do not tell what the test showed. 
Three-quarters of the seeds may be dead and only one-quarter germinates, but 
the seeds would be “tested.” What you want to know is, what the test showed. 
Harris’ are the only seeds sold with the test marked on the label, except field 
seeds which the law requires to be so marked. 
Send for FREE Catalogue and Buy Direct 
Whether you have a small garden or a large farm, you should have the Harris 
Seed Catalogue. Our prices are much lower than charged by city seedsmen, and 
there are other advantages in buying direct from the farm. Ask for catalogue, 
and if you raise vegetables for market, please mention it. 
JOSEPH HARRIS CO., R.F.D. 11, Coldwater, N. Y. 
A view at Moreton Farm where Harris’ seeds are raised 
Jf 
Garden and Farm Notes 
Apple Pomace and Lime on Potatoes 
About two months ago I read an ar¬ 
ticle in The R. N.-Y. about apple pom¬ 
ace being as good as stable manure when 
agricultural lime is added to it. I have 
ar. acre of land which is run down, and 
would like to plant it in early potatoes 
in the Spring. Would you advise me to 
spread 20 tons of apple pomace on it, 
which would cost me about 50 cents a 
ton to haul and spread it, and how much 
lime would I have to use to each ton of 
pomace? J. F. 
Fredonia, N. Y. 
We shall have to turn this over to our 
readers for experience. We have used 
some apple pomace on grass and in an 
apple orchard. It gave fair results when 
lime was used with it, but we should not 
care to use it alone on average soil. The 
plan of using it in potatoes with lime 
is out of our experience, and we must 
call for help in such a matter. By an¬ 
alysis the pomace contains in each ton, 
about 5 lbs. of nitrogen, 1 lb. of phos¬ 
phoric acid and 3 lbs. of potash, or about 
half the value of ordinary manure. 
Controlling Pear Psylla 
This year the pear psylla appeared in 
such force as to turn my trees black, and 
the fruit was so dirty that much of it had 
to be wiped over with a damp cloth be¬ 
fore marketing. The Seckels were so 
largely upon how successful previous con¬ 
trol measures have been. If the insect 
is abundant, repeated spraying with nic¬ 
otine sulphate, dusting with nicotine 
dust, or spraying with 30 lbs. of lime, 2 
lbs. of copper sulphate and one pint of 
nicotine sulphate in 100 gallons of water 
will be helpful. This is a heavy schedule, 
but the pear psylla needs it if any pest 
does. h. b. x. 
Growing White Pine from Seed 
1. Will you give a brief outline of a 
practical method of propagating white 
pine from seed on a small scale? When 
and how should seeds be gathered, when 
planted, soil, fertilizer, transplanting, 
etc. 2. Can pine tree rust be controlled? 
If so, how? Describe symptoms of rust. 
Schenectady, N. Y. w. w. B. 
1. Seejff may be sown in the Autumn, 
about the middle of September, soon after 
being taken from the cones, or they may 
be sown in early Spring. It is well to 
incorporate a" little leaf mold with the 
soil, and the seed should be sown lightly 
and covered not over a quarter of an 
inch. It will be found convenient to sift 
sand over the seed as a covering. It is 
most important that the seed bed be 
neither wet nor droughty, and especially 
that wet conditions do not follow dry con¬ 
ditions closely, as this is apt to induce 
“damping off.” Accordingly, the seed 
bed should be well drained and the young 
seedlings should be shaded with a lath 
covering. 
2. The white pine blister can be con- 
Chives as an Ornamental Plant 
dirty on the majority of the trees that I 
let bushels of them go to waste; did not 
attempt to pick any. I have had no 
trouble of this kind before, although a 
neighbor a mile away had it a dozen or 
more years ago as badly as I have it now. 
The spray schedules tell what to use to 
stop it, but my neighbor, before referred 
to, was a most careful and thorough or- 
chardist, and was baffled by it, so I 
would like to know just how to go about 
it to get rid of it. To begin with, I in¬ 
tend to prune exceptionally hard and 
scrape the trees thoroughly. Then in the 
early Spring I propose to give them first 
a spraying of lime-sulphur with an abun¬ 
dance of lime in it, that will paint my 
trees white. Probably you will say O. K. 
so far, but what next? f. f. j. 
West Barrington, R. I. 
Your inquiry characterizes the sporadic 
reappearance of pear psylla and the dif¬ 
ficulty of controlling it. Sometimes we 
are inclined to believe that the control of 
psylla is more dependent upon the will 
of the Lord than upon anything that we 
poor mortals can do. In years when the 
infestation is light, we get “excellent con¬ 
trol” ; but in years when it is severe, we 
get no appreciable benefits. This last 
Summer psylla was especially severe. 
And yet experimental evidence shows 
that control can be effected by religious 
observance of several principles. 
No one practice in itself is enough to 
hold the pest in check. Like as not the 
only one omitted will be the deciding one 
for the season. Scraping the bark is 
good insurance, since it destroys hiber¬ 
nating quarters. Spraying during the 
Winter with lime-sulphur to which nico¬ 
tine sulphate has been added is additional 
insurance, and is directed against hiber¬ 
nating adults. The most important spray 
of all is the application of lime-sulphur, 
1 to 8, made when the blossom buds have 
separated in the cluster. This spray 
should never be omitted. The regular 
calyx spray should consist of 30 lbs. of 
lime, 2 lbs. of copper sulphate, 2J4 lbs. 
of arsenate of lead, and one pint of nico¬ 
tine sulphate, all in 100 gallons. Then, 
perhaps a week after the calyx spray, at 
a time when the young are mostly 
hatched, a spray of nicotine sulphate will 
do much to cut down the numbers. 
Applications of materials during the 
remainder of the season will depend 
trolled through the eradication of currant 
and gooseberry bushes growing in the 
vicinity of large areas of white pine. 
The source of infection is from these 
plants. On individual trees it is possible 
to cut out the disease, but this is, of 
course, not feasible on a large scale. 
Blister rust infection occurs through the 
leaves, the mycelium gradually killing the 
infected needles and growing down into 
the tree. The first marked symptoms of 
the disease appear about the second ir 
third year after infection in the form of 
orange-yellow pustules breaking through 
the bark. h. b.-t. 
Corncobs in Vinegar Making 
I have two half barrels of last year’s 
cider which does not seem to get suffi¬ 
ciently sour for vinegar. I have noted In 
The R. N.-Y. something about using 
corncobs to hurry vinegar. Can I take 
a half barrel of cobs and pour the cider 
in and leave stand in the cellar, and w ill 
it then turn to vinegar? l. m. h. 
Manville, N. J. 
The way corncobs are used to hurry 
the vinegar-making process is to let the 
cider run or drip slowly through them, 
so as to expose it thoroughly to the air. 
There is nothing in the corncobs them¬ 
selves that would affect the cider. Ex¬ 
posure to warm air will develop the pro¬ 
cess, and when the cider is permitted to 
trickle slowly through the corncobs the 
full effect of the air exposure is given. 
Small pieces of wood, or clean pebbles, 
or even some kinds of sawdust, would 
give very much the same results, but the 
thing to remember is that it is not the 
corncobs themselves which hasten the 
vinegar process, but the warm air which 
circulates through the cobs and thus acts 
upon the cider. The best way to hasten 
the vinegar process is to get a gallon or 
two of good old eider containing quite a 
quantity of the mother, or thick yellow 
matter found in old vinegar. This will 
help to start up the vinegar process. 
