398 
The RURAL N*EW-YORKER 
March 1, 1924 
McCormick-Deering 
Tillage 
Implements 
The M cCormick-Deering Disk Harrow is a 
simple and efficient implement, built and trussed 
like a steel bridge, to serve many years. You will like 
the details and conveniences—the dust-proof bear¬ 
ings and the bearing oil cups set above the frame, 
the built-in angle-steel weight boxes, the oscillating 
disk scrapers, the forecarriage, etc. Made in sizes for 
everybody—4 to 10 feet. All sizes can be equipped 
with the tandem attachment which is shown above. 
Double disking is popular—farmers know that it 
more than pays for itself. 
S EED-bed making will call for last and 
thorough work this year as always. The 
planting season will roll around in a twinkl¬ 
ing, but no matter how few the days between 
plowing and planting you can have a profit¬ 
building soil by using efficient equipment. 
McCormick-Deering Tillage Implements 
combine the three essentials—good work, long 
life and convenience. They are of practical de¬ 
sign, their construction being based on ninety 
years of farm and factory experience. They are 
priced on the basis of economical quantity 
production, and as an investment they offer 
you attractive returns. 
The McCormick-Deering Leverless Disk Har¬ 
row is a genuine tractor disk, not a made-over horse 
harrow. It is built for heaviest duty. It is controlled 
entirely from the driver’s seat, without levers, yet it 
is very simple. Merely backing the tractor automati¬ 
cally sets the angle of both front and rear gangs. When 
the tractor starts forward the gangs hold that angle 
until released by a pull on the rope. In 5 to 10-foot 
sizes to fit your power. 
To Fill All Your Tillage Tool Needs See 
the McCormick-Deering Dealer. It Pays! 
INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER COMPANY 
. OF AMERICA 
(INCORPORATED) 
606 So. Michigan Ave. Chicago, III. 
The Dunham Culti-Packer has no equal as a 
seed-bed finisher. It pulverizes the soil, fills out air 
spaces, and saves moisture content. Following the drill, 
it helps the little plants to get a quick start, firmly 
set in finely mulched soil. Use it to prevent winter- 
killing of wheat; to rejuvenate meadows, etc. It is far 
ahead of a roller for small grains. Made in eight sizes, 
for horse and tractor use. 
mm 
Settee mu 
as Io-»v as 
19 * 
Pe*» Rod 
29 
Now Sold Direct 
You have always known the 
long-lasting quality of Peerless 
Fence. But never before have 
you had the opportunity to buy 
it at such reduced prices. 
From Factory to Farm 
We’ve opened the doors of our 
three big factories direct to the 
farmers. This means immense 
savings for you on Peerless 
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PEERLESS WIRE & FENCE CO.. 
Dept. 4029 Cleveland, Ohio 
LUBRICATING OILS 
AND GREASES FOR EVERY PURPOSE 
By shipping direct from Pennsylvania refinery we save 
you money and furnish the very best quality. e ship 
in 55, 30 and 15 gal. drums, a faucet with every drum. Ask 
for prices on Automobile Oil, Tractor Oil. Gas Engine 
Oil Cvlinder Oil. Cream Separator Oil, Castor Machine 
Oih&c. REFINERS’ 1IIST RIB l TIN 6 OO. 
Box 854 Oil. CI1 \ , 1 A. 
FERTILE FARM-79 Acres 
house, barn, silo, water, 11 cattle. 3 horses, hogs, 125 
chickens, turkeys, guineas. Outfit new; farm machinery; 
near town. Price. $6,500. Ipiraedjate possession. Write 
S, H. SHAFFER Thurmont, Maryland 
The farm that is fenced with American 
Fence has the greatest possible protection, 
and enjoys the lowest per-year fence cost. 
Better construction, better galvanizing, 
full gauge, full weight and full length 
rolls—American Fence is the most service¬ 
able and the most economical fence made. 
As the life of good fence is increased by 
the quality of its posts, hangyourfence 
on Arrow Tee Steel Fence Posts. Built 
on the railroad rail principle with large 
anchor plate which locks the post 
firmly in the ground. Frequent 
notches permit every line wire to 
be attached, if desired. Your 
dealer can supply you. 
AMERICAN STEEL & WIRE COMPANY 
■r-. ,_ New York Boston Dallas Denver 
Chicago 
Boston 
. .i. V-. 
When you zvrite advertisers mention The R. N.-Y. and you ll get a 
quick reply and a “square deal.” See guarantee editorial page. 
Farm Mechanics 
By Robert H. Smith 
Silo Questions 
1. We have a silo rather too large in 
diameter for our requirements. Is there 
any convenient inexpensive method for 
lining this silo with concrete? 2. We 
wish to construct a second silo for Sum¬ 
mer use. If we should want to construct 
this of concrete, which would be the most 
convenient and inexpensive way to build 
it? J. B. 
1. I know of no inexpensive way to line 
a silo with concrete and reduce its diam¬ 
eter to any extent. It would be equiv¬ 
alent to building a new concrete silo very 
nearly, using the old silo for the outer 
form. Where a silo was originally made 
of too great a diameter the difficulty is 
sometimes got around by feeding from it 
in cold wheather when moulds are not so 
active. As a further help, the contents of 
the silo may be cut across and a part of 
the silo fed down at a time, making the 
feeding more rapid over each part. 
2. The monolithic type seems to he the 
favorite concrete silo in this section. 
Forms can be made for this which can he 
used conveniently from the bottom to 
the top as the work progresses. In fact, 
the same forms may be used by several 
neighbors if all happen to be building at 
the same time, or rather during the same 
season, lessening the cost to each. 
Construction of Concrete House 
I want to build a house, and have lots 
of sandstone and a crusher nearby, but 
am afraid the house would be damp if 
built of stone, especially in cold weather. 
How would it be if I would make it 4 in. 
thick of concrete and leave 4 in. of space 
and the inside wall 4 in. of concrete 
again, and would galvanized wire laid in 
the cement every foot in height with the 
same bedded in cement through the two 
walls—-that is, pieces 1 ft long—make a 
safe and solid job of it? What per¬ 
centage of cement would be advisable to 
use to be dry inside in cold weather? 
Could it be plastered on the cement, or 
would it he better to make a dead-air 
space between the cement and wall ? 
What would be the cost for a building 24 
ft. square; that is, for a building 12 ft. 
high? I would intend to do the concrete 
work myself. E. N. g. 
Instead of the construction that you 
suggest, have you considered the use of 
concrete block or concrete building tile in 
connection with stucco finish for the out¬ 
side? The inside can be finished with 
furring strips, lath and plaster, and in 
this way secure the benefits of the dead 
air space that you would get by building 
the double monolithic wall. 
As far as the cost of materials is con¬ 
cerned, you can get at it roughly by figur¬ 
ing on about 12 blocks from a sack of 
cement. These blocks, 8x8x16 in. in size, 
will lay up about 10 sq. ft. of wall 8 in. 
in thickness. In addition to the above, 
about one-half sack of cement will be re¬ 
quired for the mortar joints and the stuc¬ 
co covering of each 10 sq. ft. of wall sur¬ 
face. 
Difficulty in Pumping Water 
Our local pump man told me if I 
would let him drive a new pump he 
would get us a well of water easy to 
pump. He drove one, and it does not 
work any better. He drove it about 2 ft. 
away from the other well. The old well 
was 42 ft. deep. Ours are all driven 
wells; no rock; just sand bottom; 1%-in. 
pipe with a point of fine brass screen. 
He drove this well 42 ft. and put a 
wooden top on it that was only guaran¬ 
teed to pull water 22 ft. What can I do 
to get it to work easily? The well driver 
said something about putting a bucket 
about 12 or 15 ft. down the pipe that 
would make the well that much shallower. 
Pump would have to lift water 30 ft. If 
this well was only 25 or 30 ft. deep it 
would work well. w. H. 
From a study of your letter it would 
appear that there are two possible causes 
for failure of your # well; the well may 
need development, and will grow better 
with use, or the water may be below suc¬ 
tion distance. In either case you would 
get somewhat the same result when pump¬ 
ing. The pump would work hard, with a 
rubbery feeling, and the handle would 
tend to fly up when released. 
I would suggest measuring down the 
well to the water level. If it stands more 
than 20 to 25 ft. below the surface about 
the only course open to you is to dig a 
dry well 12 to 15 feet deep and install 
your pump cylinder at the bottom of this. 
This arrangement will bring the cylinder 
within suction distance of the water if 
there is any considerable quantity in the 
well. There is an expanding pump cyl¬ 
inder that can be slipped within the well 
pipe and by means of a seating tool fas¬ 
tened at the depth desired. The small 
size of your well pipe, however, prevents 
the use of this. If the measurement test 
shows plenty of water in the well within 
20 to 25 ft. of the top. try developing the 
well by slow but steady pumping. Work¬ 
ing the pump handle fast may cause sand 
to clog the strainer. If this is continued 
long enough it may lead to a steady flow 
of water. bobert h. smith. 
