706 
The RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
April 26, 1924 
The Home Dressmaker 
Styles and Personality. —It would 
seem, to look at the shop windows, that 
th young girl was the only person to be 
considered this year; the little hats are 
only meant for bobbed heads, and the 
pencil-case costumes for slim figures. 
However, mother and grandmother no 
longer adopt caps and shawls as they 
did a century ago, and no one questions 
their right to wear any style ( they find 
becoming. One of the department store 
coiffeurs said recently that to his knowl¬ 
edge at least 2.000 women had had their 
hair bobbed within the previous month. 
Probably one reason for this was that 
the entire 2,000 had been trying to buy 
Spring hats, and had failed to find any¬ 
thing that would go on their heads. Head 
sizes in millinery were never so small as 
this year, and apparently the hatmakers 
believe that every woman who has not 
already bobbed her hair ought to go out 
immediately and have it done. It is a 
weary task for any woman with long and 
abundant hair to find a readymade hat 
that will fit her this Spring. We were 
quite interested to find one of the Fifth 
Avenue shops advertising hats in “wom¬ 
en’s head sizes,” so apparently the un¬ 
bobbed hat buyers have revolted. 
A Sleeveless Sweater Coat. —In the 
first picture, the figure at the left shows 
a sleeveless flannel coat, of a type now 
offered to take the place of a sweater. 
Sweaters are too comfortable to be given 
up, but we see little coats, both with and 
without sleeves, among the sports clothes, 
and the model figured is a particularly 
pretty one. It was cut like a slip-on 
kimono blouse, with a long shoulder line 
that came down like a sleeve cap at the 
top. There were revers at the neck open¬ 
ing, and a little vest pocket at the right 
side. At the left side there was an open¬ 
ing. bound at the edge, and closed with 
flat pearl buttons. The back was en¬ 
tirely plain. This coat was made of 
blue twilled flannel; we also see them in 
fawn, orange, jade and Lanvin green, 
white and Chinese red. The one figured 
was worn with a pleated skirt of white 
sports silk and a white crepe de chine 
blouse. It is very desirable to wear over 
a linen dress, and any becoming color 
may be selected. The handy girl can 
readily make such a garment, and as the 
cost is moderate any vivid color may be 
chosen if desired. A purchaser of moder¬ 
ate means should not buy expensive gar¬ 
ments that are conspicuous in color or 
cut. for she must wear them a long time 
to get the worth of her money, but she 
can express her liking for color in less 
expensive garments.- A gay flannel sweat¬ 
er coat is just the thing to wear with a 
white dress for some outdoor festivity. 
The sport hat shown was blue Manila 
with a white silk scarf. 
Another Sports Costume. —The dress 
at the right, also of the sports type, con¬ 
sisted of a blouse and skirt of fawn- 
colored basket cloth. The blouse was 
perfectly plain, and buttoned all down 
the front with flat buttons of the same 
color. There was a belt of bright Lanvin 
green' leather, and the little slanting 
pockets at each side were also bound with 
green leather. The scarf worn at the 
neck was part of the costume; it was 
green cloth edged all around with a deep 
hem of the fawn material. A scarf to 
match is a noticeable feature of a great 
many costumes this Spring, and it is the 
most popular of dress accessories. The 
scarf is now always worn around the 
neck, as shown, sometimes with both 
ends brought around to the front, and 
nothing is too gay or too variegated to 
wear in this way. The use of the same 
material as the costume or its trimming 
is especially favored as being a new 
style, but with a plain jacket suit any 
desirable color may be worn. Anyone 
whose chest of heirlooms includes great¬ 
grandfather’s Paisley scarf should bring 
it out, for it is an enviable possession 
this season. And do not look askance at 
the walking stick; all the big shops now 
offer ladies’ walking sticks, which are a 
part of the outdoor girl’s outfit. 
Tucks—and More Tucks. —In the 
second picture the dress at the left was 
a fine blue twill, trimmed with a multi¬ 
plicity of pin tucks. It was a straight, 
narrow, one-piece dress, having straps of 
tucks coming down from the shoulder on 
each side. The skirt had a band, knee 
depth, of horizontal pin tucks, buttoned 
at the right side. Flaring gauntlet cuffs 
of the pin tucks were apparently tied on 
with a strap of narrow ribbon passed 
through an ornament of beading and em¬ 
broidery, finished at the end with little 
beaded balls. There was a flat orna¬ 
ment of the same materials laid on the 
tucked strap at either side of the waist. 
A narrow girdle of the material passed 
around the waist. A very handsome scarf 
was worn with this dress, dark blue min¬ 
gled with Chinese red, while the hat was 
a mingling of blue and sand. The dress 
was very narrow, reflecting a prevalent 
tendency in all cloth dresses now. 
A Modern Shirtwaist Dress. —What 
we used to call a shirtwaist dress is now 
obsolete, but the little frock in the center 
foreshadows its return. It is a plain 
skirt and waist of green wash silk, but 
the trimming used is so pretty and novel 
that it is worth describing. It was made 
from cording of the material, woven un¬ 
der and over like basket work, into nar¬ 
row strips, which edged collar, cuffs and 
pockets. Such a trimming could be wov¬ 
en by basting the cords lengthwise into a 
frame, the width desired, and then weav¬ 
ing across. Such dresses are often made 
of flannel, and the same style is suitable 
for pongee, linen or ratine. 
Flowered Silk. —The dress at the 
right shows a prevailing tendency in its 
surplice side closing, short sleeves and 
long waist. It has one novel feature, 
however: the front of the skirt is pleated 
in box pleats, while it is merely eased in 
at the waist at the back and sides. This 
is one of the newer fashions, but an old- 
fashioned person might imagine the lady 
had put her skirt on back to front. 
Sometimes such skirts are made with a 
separate straight apron drapery in pleats. 
This dress was a soft taffeta in biscuit 
color with dull blue flowers. A pleating 
of ecru silk mull finished neck and 
sleeves, and ended in a rosette at the side 
of the waist. This would be a very pret¬ 
ty syle for Summer dresses, such as voile. 
The hat shown was a rather large poke 
shape of black Milan, trimmed with a 
wreath of flowers and foliage. 
Notes and Novelties. —Boyish collar 
and cuff sets in a variety of colors, as 
well as in white, give the right finish to 
a plain dress. Gauntlet cuffs are offered 
with Peter Pan or Byron collars. One 
can buy such plain sets, in nice material, 
for about $1 in any of the large stores; 
they are semi-soft, not stiff. Circular 
coliarings, from about $1 a yard up, are 
made of organdie and lace, or of embroid¬ 
ered linen, ecru and colored. Such a fin¬ 
ish adds much to a dark silk or cloth. 
Printed satinette is a lightweight lus¬ 
trous material in figured patterns used 
for linings, and also for children’s clothes, 
being washable and fast color. We have 
seen some very quaint little frocks made 
of this. It is 36 in. wide, and costs 79 
cents a yard. Brocaded sateen, 69 cents 
Three Suggestions for Summer Wear 
\ * 
a yard, is a medium-weight lining that 
looks well and wears well as a coat lin¬ 
ing. 
Washable broadcloth is a heavy tub 
silk that is especially favored iu sports 
frocks and skirts. It is 33 and 40 in. 
wide, and is shown in plaids, Roman 
stripes, candy stripes and checks. We 
saw it recently for $1.95 and $2.95 a 
yard. 
Ribbon is again very much used in mil¬ 
linery and dress trimming. Brilliant 
Roman striped ribbons are popular, also 
plaids and checks. Pleated ribbons in 
varied widths are offered for trimming 
both dresses and hats. With a large 
cockade of pleated ribbon it is very easy 
to trim a hat smartly. 
Sailor hats are in vogue with the plain 
Spring suit. The new version has a 
fairly high crown, the brim Is not very 
wide, and sometimes the trimming bal¬ 
ances evenly on either side. They are 
seen in Manila straw, hemp or Milan. 
Little tricorne hats of Milan are also 
fashionable with the suits, both in black 
and colors. Red hats are quite prevalent, 
both the lacquer shade known as Chinese 
red, and another very vivid shade called 
lipstick. We see a good many small hats 
trimmed with large flat poppies, about 
five of the flowers being required to go 
around the hat. One sometimes sees a 
black hat trimmed with flat poppies of 
Chinese red. This combination must be 
studied carefully ; it may be quite smart, 
or it may be rather frumpy, despite the 
brilliant color, and it has a tendency to 
flatten out the color of the wearer. A red 
hat is more likely to be flattering to the 
wearer than a black one with red trim¬ 
ming. 
The prevailing tailored suit has brought 
the separate blouse to the front again in 
every conceivable style. Tailored blouses 
of white washing material include dimity, 
madras and English broadcloth, among 
cottons, and also wash silks. Many of 
these blouses have the shirt bosom, either 
plain, let in with a cording, or pleated. 
Semi-tailored blouses of crepe de chine 
have collar and cuffs embroidered in con¬ 
trasting colors. Many have an embroid¬ 
ered monogram for trimming. The dress¬ 
ier suits are often accompanied by blouses 
with pleated collar and cuffs. We also 
see many fancy linen vests for wear with 
the tailored suits. Such a vest is at¬ 
tached to a plain waist when the coat is 
not to be removed. There are also 
guimpes like a sleeveless waist with fancy 
vestee and collar which are very popular 
for wear with a tailored suit. Such a 
guimpe, being made of net, is much 
cooler than a blouse, and a woman who 
is rather plump will find it desirable as 
the weather grows warmer, when she 
does not expect to remove her coat. It is 
always wise to wear adjustable shields 
with such a guimpe, to avoid any risk of 
soiling the coat lining with perspiration. 
Separate coats for Spring wear show 
the useful tweed, and also a number of 
styles not quite so mannish, in twill, silk 
crepe, and heavy ribbed silk. Usually 
they are lined with crepe de chine. The 
heavy ribbed silk is among the newer 
styles. Many of these Spring and Sum¬ 
mer coats have fur collars. 
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