The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
915 
Ruralisms 
The Herbert Red Raspberry 
What information can you give in re¬ 
gard to the raspberry known as the Her¬ 
bert? This may be only part of the 
name, but the only one given to me. Is 
it a hybrid? The old canes are almost 
thornless, but as to other qualities I am 
wholly ignorant, excepting that some of 
the growers in this locality, between Den¬ 
ver and Golden, are trying to get it es¬ 
tablished. J. E. H. 
Edgewater, Gol. 
Herbert is supposed to be a pure repre¬ 
sentative of the American species of red 
raspberry, Rubus strigosus. It was in¬ 
troduced some 30 years ago and has es¬ 
tablished itself as a reliable variety. In 
the vicinity of Boston it is especially es¬ 
teemed. The plants are vigorous and 
hardy, and more productive than Cuth- 
bert, though the berries are a trifle soft, 
H. B. T, 
Forcing Young Grafts to Bear 
We have a few young trees grafted to 
Cortland last year. Can you tell me of 
some way to make a few branches form 
fruit buds this season ? K. A. S. 
Ashby, Mass. 
Of course you understand that the 
blossoms borne on trees this season come 
from fruit buds that were formed last 
season. That is, anything that you may 
attempt to do this year will not affect 
this year’s bloom. Fruit buds for next 
year’s crop will be formed somewhere be¬ 
tween the first of June and the first of 
July—earlier under some conditions. 
Ringing the shoot will tend to promote 
the formation of fruit buds, but it will 
tend to dwarf the shoot. Our experience 
with Cortland is that it tends to bear 
early enough without resort to artificial 
means. We should be tempted to leave 
the shoots alone. H. b. t. 
Radiating Surface for Greenhouse 
About how much radiation is required 
for a greenhouse 16 ft. wide and 34 ft. 
long? C. E. B. 
Figuring a portion of walls and ends 
in, there will be about 880 sq. ft. of ex¬ 
posure. This would require 220 sq. ft. 
of radiation to heat to 50 degrees when 
zero outside, with hot water, or 132 ft. 
for steam. For each degree below 10 be¬ 
low zero, add 2 per cent to radiation. 
This radiation would require about 500 
ft. of H/i-in. pipe, or 369 ft. of U/i-in. 
pipe; 2-in. is generally used for hot wa¬ 
ter and 1%-in. for steam. E. J. w. 
Exterminating Sassafras Roots 
Can you give me a way to kill or ex¬ 
terminate sassafras roots? M. E. s. 
Common salt, blue vitriol, iron sul¬ 
phate, kerosene, arsenical compounds, 
sulphuric acid, carbolic acid, and caustic 
soda are all used as killers of undesired 
plants. The point to be remembered in 
using them is that they are not selective 
to any great degree, and that they will 
kill whatever they come in contact with, 
good and bad alike. Of the list men¬ 
tioned, salt is probably the most used, 
largely because of its cheapness. The 
most efficient are carbolic acid and the 
arsenical compounds. One pint of car¬ 
bolic acid in eight gallons of water makes 
a cheap and effective solution, while 1 lb. 
of arsenite of soda to three or four gal¬ 
lons of water makes a strong killer. 
Practically all of these materials are 
poisonous, and must be used with cau¬ 
tion. H. B. T. 
Equivalent Amounts of Dry and Liquid 
Lime-sulphur 
It is more convenient, in fact almost 
imperative in my case, to get lime-sul¬ 
phur in dry form, but the spraying in¬ 
structions invariably speak of lime-sul¬ 
phur in liquid terms (gallons). What 
is the equivalent in dry sulphur of what 
they speak of as one gallon? f. k. w. 
According to figures compiled in Mich¬ 
igan a barrel of liquid lime-sulphur con¬ 
taining 50 gallons of lime-sulphur test¬ 
ing 33 degrees Baume weighs 600 lbs. 
and contains 26 per cent of dry sulphur 
and 10.5 per cent of calcium oxide. In 
other words, a 50-gallon barrel of lime- 
sulphur of the standard strength noted 
will contain 156 lbs. of sulphur and 63 
lbs. of calcium oxide, or a total of 219 
lbs. of dry matter. One gallon of lime- 
sulphur will therefore, contain 4.4 lbs. 
of dry matter. Now, since dry lime- 
sulphur is made by evaporating the water 
from the liquid lime-sulphur, it ie a sim¬ 
ple process of arithmetic to make com¬ 
parisons between the dry product and 
the liquid material. H. B. T. 
Fertilizing Value of Nightsoil 
Last Fall I threw some nightsoil on a 
field, afterwards plowing and sowing rye. 
What now interests me is to see the rye 
in that particular spot 3^ ft. high and 
in head when the rest of rye is about 
1 ft. high. I therefore am prompted to 
ask you to enlighten me as to why the 
nightsoil makes such a rank growth? Of 
what is nightsoil composed in compari¬ 
son with commercial fertilizers? What 
commercial fertilizer is equal to night¬ 
soil? w. S. 
If the nightsoil contained both the 
liquids and solids it will be chiefly val¬ 
uable for its nitrogen, and is usually 
quite an active fertilizer. Its action is 
much the same as nitrate of soda or sul¬ 
phate of ammonia, and probably . either 
of these chemicals would give much the 
same results in fertilizing. The night¬ 
soil, in order to make a balanced ferti¬ 
lizer should have a quantity of acid phos¬ 
phate and muriate of potash added to it. 
We have obtained the best results from 
nightsoil by mixing it with a compost 
made by rotting down forest leaves, 
straw, old sods or any other similar or¬ 
ganic matter. It is well to add acid 
phosphate to this compost. When handled 
and reinforced in this way the nightsoil 
will give good satisfaction. When used 
alone it makes a rank growth of vine and 
leaves but is not good for the production 
of seed crops. 
Controlling Ants in Garden 
I have a large number of black ants in 
my flower garden every Summer, and L 
have tried quite a few things to destroy 
them, but every year they show up again. 
I now have had borax spread over the 
garden for the past three days, and they 
seem to be coming in great numbers ; also 
tried some very hot water in their hives, 
but of no avail. What will destroy them? 
Hillsdale, N. J. f. h. 
Where ants occur in the garden their 
nests should be treated with bisulphide of 
carbon. Punch a hole into the galleries 
with a stick or crowbax 1 , and pour in a 
tablespoon of the chemical, closing the 
hole with soil. Do this in several places. 
The fumes of the carbon bisulphide suf¬ 
focate the insects. This substance is in¬ 
flammable and explosive, and should be 
handled with just the same precautions 
as gasoline. The ants may also be poi¬ 
soned with tartar emetic, three grains to 
four tablespoons of syrup, smeared upon 
chips or exposed in small shallow dishes 
so placed that the ants can reach the 
contents. The destruction of the working 
ants weakens and destroys the colonies. 
One of our correspondents who was 
much annoyed by ants in the garden says 
he made a repellent by mixing 4 lbs. of 
tobacco dust, % lb. of borax, and adding 
enough sifted wood ashes to make three 
gallons. This was dusted over the plants 
wherever the ants appeared, and proved 
to be very distasteful to them, apparently 
driving them from the garden. It is pos¬ 
sible that this mixture would be a useful 
repellent for other insects. The carbon 
bisulphide and tartar emetic are both 
efficient. It is probable that the poisoned 
syrup is not only consumed by the work¬ 
ers, but is also taken to the nest and fed 
to the young. 
Aphis and Rose Chafers 
Will you give me a formula for spray¬ 
ing rose bushes? The new shoots are lit¬ 
erally covered with small green insects. 
Last year my roses were ruined by rose 
bugs as soon as the buds began to open. 
Westminster, Md. mbs. c. m. g. 
Both tobacco and soap solutions are 
advised as sprays to destroy plant lice on 
roses. Where tobacco is used, the spray 
will stick better if some soap is added. 
An excellent spray for aphis is five gal¬ 
lons of water, 1 oz. of Black Leaf 40, 
and oz. of whale oil or fish oil soap. 
The same preparation is helpful in con¬ 
trolling thrips and some of the small leaf 
eaters. 
We cannot advise any spray to control 
those disgusting rose bugs. In vine¬ 
yards they spray with arsenate of lead, 5 
lbs. to 50 gallons water, with one gallon 
of molasses added to make it stick, but 
this is very undesirable in the rose gar¬ 
den, and the only thing we can advise is 
hand picking. These insects breed in 
sandy ground overgrown with weeds, the 
goldenrod being one of their host plants, 
and when such ground in the vicinity is 
cultivated it will be helpful in controlling 
the beetles. 
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Commercial Poultry Raising 
by Roberts . 
An all-around book; $3 postpaid, by 
Rural New-Yorker, 333 W. 30th St., New York 
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