‘Ibe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
943 
The Home Dressmaker 
A Late Season. —It is likely that 
many line® of dress goods, garments and 
millinery have been affected quite as 
much as agriculture by the unseasonable 
weather. Cotton goods would not seem 
to be selling rapidly, and New England 
cotton mills are suffering from a decided 
depression. Beautiful new cottons and 
linens are displayed among the dress 
goods, but buying appears slow. Reports 
from abroad say that French fashion au¬ 
thorities wish to revive the hourglass fig¬ 
ure, and are planning to bring old-style 
corsets back. The slim American figure, 
with its boyish outline, is quite different 
from the less athletic European, with 
larger hips and shorter curves, though we 
see many of the latter here among certain 
racial groups. We do not think Amer¬ 
ican women will go back to the sort of 
figure that is only achieved by tight lac¬ 
ing. We noted recently a group j>f at¬ 
tractive pleated silk skirts in which the 
belt measurements ran from 25 to 38 in. 
Forty years ago we should have found 
few women admitting openly that they 
exceeded 25 in. around the waist, and 38 
in. would have been regarded as a fore¬ 
runner of Aunt Eppie Hogg in the news¬ 
paper cartoons. 
A Youthful Silk Gown. —In the 
first illustration, the figure at the left 
show a smart little frock in printed 
crepe, a combination of red and black on 
a white ground, trimmed with red silk 
binding. The dress has groups of pleats, 
which cause the skirt to flare a little, 
and it is not so scant as some, while 
preserving the narrow silhouette. A one- 
piece yoke, long on the shoulders, forms 
the top of the waist; the armhole is de¬ 
fined by red binding, and the little sleeve 
is formed by two bands edged with the 
binding. The closing down the front had 
two rows of red binding, one edging it, 
the other just inside, with a row of 
small white pearl buttons on it. The 
closing was then finished with a frill of 
white eyelet embroidery edged with nar¬ 
row Valenciennes lace. We often see 
trimmings of this sort, and a great deal 
of lace is now being used on Summer 
dresses. Lace and Swiss embroidery 
workers have suffered a good deal from 
trade depression during the past few 
years, and efforts are being made to bring 
their work more into vogue. Changes in 
women’s underwear and children’s clothes 
have seriously affected these products. In 
this model the white frill is especially at¬ 
tractive, and the trimming is extended by 
a little pocket at the side of the skirt, 
headed with a curved flap of the em¬ 
broidery edged with lace. The pleats at 
the sides of the skirt extend all the way 
from the yoke, giving the long line on 
both waist and skirt. This dress also 
had a flying cape in the back, which 
started under the yoke, falling just be¬ 
low the waist; the cape was of the fig¬ 
ured crepe, lined and bound with red silk. 
These short little capes, which do not 
come around over the shoulders, but fly 
loose in the back, are seen on many dress¬ 
es, coats and even suits. We have seen 
some dresses with thi flying cape at¬ 
tached by snap fasteners concealed by 
trimming, so that it could be removed 
if desired. Sometimes they are attached 
at the collar, sometimes at the edge of a 
yoke. Many sports suits of twill or jer¬ 
sey cloth have a cape of contrasting 
color; one we noted had coat and skirt of 
sand color, with a coral cape. 
A Pretty White Dress. —The figure 
at the right shows a white dress of cord¬ 
ed voile that is very simple, but unusu¬ 
ally pretty. Everyone needs a white dress 
for warm days, and this gives a pretty 
idea in making. The dress itself is very 
plain, the short sleeves being cut kimono 
style. A yoke of filet lace 2 y 2 in. deep 
was set on, with the border at the lower 
edge; the straight edge was eased in so 
as to lie smooth, and was then bound 
with blue seam binding. A stitched tie 
of the seam binding was fastened under 
the lace at the back, brought over the 
shoulder® so as to form a strap at each 
side, and then carried down under the 
lace, where it was tied in a bow with 
loops and ends below. This was really 
very pretty in effect. The sleeves were 
finished with the lace, bound with the 
blue. On each side of the skirt was an 
applied pocket, having lace trimming 
reaching across the top, and then coming 
up to the waist line, where there was a 
very narrow blue girdle. The lace trim¬ 
ming of the pockets was bound along the 
straight edge with the narrow blue bind¬ 
ing. This would make a very pretty 
white drees in voile, linen or dotted 
Swiss. A white or colored linen of fine 
quality would be particularly pretty 
made after this style, trimmed with Irish 
crochet. The hat shown was a plain Leg¬ 
horn, trimmed with a large blue poppy. 
Dotted Swiss. —In the second pic¬ 
ture, the children on either side of the 
central figure show models of dotted 
Swiss. The one at the left is a perfectly 
plain model which had a tucked panel of 
white organdie all the way from neck to 
hem. The panel was edged down each 
side with a little frill of narrow Valen¬ 
ciennes. The round collar and turn-back 
cuffs were also of tucked white organdie 
edged with lace. This dress was coral 
Swiss with white dots, and the white 
panel and trimmings were very attract¬ 
ive. As it could be made to open out flat 
by putting invisible fastenings all down 
one side of the panel, it could be ironed 
easily. A very serviceable and pretty 
dress could be made of navy blue Swiss 
with- a white dot, the panel front, collar 
and cuffs of white organdie being basted 
in place, so that they could be removed 
for laundering. The little frock at the 
right was of pale blue Swiss with a white 
dot, having a deep hem of white organdie 
with a little frill of Valenciennes at the 
top. This vsuggests a pretty way of 
lengthening a dress that is too short. This 
dress was cut kimono style, with very 
short sleeves, and had collar and cuffs of 
white organdie edged with Valenciennes. 
The little semi-circular trimming of lace 
in front looks as though the organdie 
girdle passed under it, but this girdle 
merely started from under the lace on 
each side. The little hat was made of 
light blue ribbon. 
A Novel Linen Dress. —The misses’ 
dress in the center was an unusually 
pretty one of gray linen. It consisted of 
a narrow skirt and long tunic blouse. 
The tunic had very short kimono sleeves 
and was without a belt; at the bottom 
was a broad band of the material with 
three large linen-covered buttons at one 
side. The neck opened in a V, with a 
Tivo Dotted 8wks Frocks and a Gray 
Linen 
scarf of the linen pleated into the collar 
at one side, and brought around the back 
to form the remainder of the collar, fall¬ 
ing down on the other side to below the 
waist. The end of this scarf was trimmed, 
with a big cerise peony and green leaves, 
cut from glazed chintz, and appliqued on 
with black blanket stitch. The skirt, be¬ 
low the tunic, was trimmed with the same 
flower®, put on in the same way, not in a 
straight band, but so as to accommodate 
the irregular outline of the flowers. It 
was an extremely pretty trimming, and 
the dress, with its gay decoration and 
jaunty scarf, would be worn with pleas¬ 
ure by any young girl, or her elder sister. 
Notes and Novelties. —Some of the 
wash suits for boys are made with a 
white linen vest with Eton collar at¬ 
tached, the vest being separate from the 
coat. No blouse is worn, so the suit is 
very desirable for hot weather, or a 
hlouse may be used when the vest is be¬ 
ing laundered. The coat has no collar, 
only the lapels in front, which makes the 
suit cooler, and causes the Eton collar 
to lie flat. These suits are made with 
straight knee trousers, instead of knick¬ 
ers. Many of the boy®’ suits are now 
made with English shorts. 
French hand-crocheted sports hats in 
mottled colors are new and attractive; 
they were recently offered as reduced in 
price for $10. They are trimmed with 
embroideries, embossed ribbon or flowers, 
and are gay in color. They are crocheted 
solidly, not in lace patterns. There is a 
decided vogue for felt, fabric and suede 
hats; they are all called sports hats, but 
are worn everywhere, and their use must 
affect the sale of straw hats quite seri¬ 
ously. We also see a return of black 
satin hats with Leghorn * brims, trimmed 
with burnt ostrich or other black fancy 
feathers. They are rather the picture 
hat type, and are offered as styles for the 
matron. These are becoming and dig¬ 
nified styles, and have probably appeared 
in response to a demand for something 
besides the bobbed-hair millinery which 
seemed the only thing obtainable early in 
the season. The felts are still tiny and 
close-fitting, varied in color, and also in 
price. They have very little trimming 
beyond a band and buckle or ornament. 
Black satin coats are popular and use¬ 
ful ; they are lined with pale gray crepe 
de chine, and trimmed with lapin fur, in 
white, biege or gray. Some have fur 
collars, some fur-trimmed scarfs, and 
some have the fronts edged with fur. 
Lapin is rabbit or hare, and some of this 
fur looks rather poor, but it is very pop¬ 
ular. A great many of the twill coats 
have lapin collars. We see some pretty 
coats in black or dark blue twill lined 
with gorgeous plaid silk, with a plaid 
scarf to match. 
Some very smart overblouses are of 
crepe de chine trimmed with Irish cro¬ 
chet dyed to match. Powder blue, canary 
yellow, Chinese red and many other fa¬ 
vorite colors are shown. 
Georgette and chiffon have returned to 
favor, especially in figured or printed ma¬ 
terials. They are very often beaded quite 
elaborately. Such dresses are sleeveles 
or short-sleeved, quite scant in out¬ 
line, and without the flying panels that 
have been characteristic of such materi¬ 
als. There is often a ribbon sash with 
pendent loops at the side. 
Sleeveless flannel jackets, bound with 
braid, are attractive for wear with white 
skirts. They are shown in a variety of 
bright colors, and white. Skirts of white 
flannel are usually wrap-around style, 
some with soft, hip-line belt. Knife-pleat¬ 
ed crepe de chine is another very popu¬ 
lar style in white separate skirts. 
Pull-over and sleeveless sweaters in 
Iceland wool and mohair are taking the 
place of other materials for the Summer. 
They include two-toned color effects and 
fancy figures. 
Modern Methods of Canning Meat 
I have never canned chicken, but see 
no reason why it could not be done with 
the pressure canner, the" same as other 
meats. I have had a steam pressure 
canner almost five years, and have canned 
both beef and pork in this way. The 
meat could be cooked in the cans, but it 
is all alike that way, unless varied in 
seasoning. Variety is the spice of life, 
we have been told, so I prefer to cook 
mine before canning. I can have more 
variations. We like most of our meat 
seasoned, roasted tender enough for the 
table, then put in sterilized cans while 
hot; fill to one-half inch of the top with 
hot broth, cap, tip and process. 
We fry, boil, make spice roll and meat 
loaf. We think the meat loaf very nice 
to take from the can when cold, slice for 
Sunday night supper, or to put between 
slices of bread for picnic sandwiches. 
Meat Loaf.—Beef, lean and fat mixed; 
grind; a few slices of dry bread which 
has been soaked in milk. Press out the 
superfluous milk; pepper and salt as 
needed; add onion if liked; grind and 
mix with the other ingredients; pack in 
sterilized cans; have hot; cap, tip and 
process. 
Fry.—Fry as for immediate use, only 
not quite so well done; season; put in 
cans. Put some hot water in the skillet 
where the meat was fried; put only a lit¬ 
tle of this gravy in each can. The boiled 
meat should be seasoned and packed in 
sterilized cans. 
Spiced Roll.—Select a piece of Hank, 
trim off the coarse part. Lay flat on the 
table and with a knife spread over it the 
following mixture: One teaspoon ground 
mustard, one teaspoon celery salt, one- 
half teaspoon black pepper, a pinch of 
red pepper ; mix to a smooth paste with 
vinegar. Roll up the meat, spice side in¬ 
side, wrap with a cloth and tie with 
wrapping cord. Now cook by boiling or 
in a covered vessel in the oven. The 
roll must be small enough to put into the 
can whole. Have hot, fill in with the hot 
broth in which it was cooked. Cap, tip 
and process. 
I also have canned Swiss steak. I 
think one could also make hamburger 
steak or sausage and can the same way. 
All cans should be marked so that we are 
sure what kind of meat it contains, how 
cooked, or if specially seasoned. The 
broth or stock left I can for soup, gravies 
and wherever I need stock. I wash out 
the steam pressure retort, put the bones 
into it, and what water I think necessary 
to cook the remaining meat and juices 
from the bones. When the bones are re¬ 
moved I can the rest for soup or stock, 
just as I can the meat. 
MRS. H. G. SMITH. 
Maple Icing 
For a delicious maple-flavored iciug, 
take two tablespoons maple syrup and 
Stir (proper consistency for spreading 
with powdered sugar. mrs. h. m. b. 
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RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 West 30tti Street New York 
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