1032 
Iht RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
July 20, 1924 
The Home Dressmaker 
Preparing for Fall. —Just now Sum¬ 
mer wardrobes may be regarded as com¬ 
pleted, and a window on Fifth Avenue, 
full of new models of Fall coats, reminds 
us that the season is moving on. These 
coats were all fur trimmed, but then 
many of the Summer coats have had fur 
collars and other fur trimming. These 
Fall coats were dark cloth of velvety 
texture, the fur collar extending to form 
a wide trimming all down the front. 
Squirrel, kolinsky and similar short furs 
were used. Dresses displayed are still the 
Summer type, many of them very thin 
and filmy. For regular wear printed silks 
lead everything else. This does not mean 
that solid colors are not worn, for they 
are always in style, but foulard, printed 
crepes of various types, and printed 
georgette are the season’s vogue. We 
also see slight changes in the neck line, 
but no indications of high collars. There 
are many dresses with round necks. 
While many costumes are made with 
tunics or overblouses, the favored dress 
for every woman is still made in one 
piece. Entirely too many of the ready¬ 
made dresses are too scant for a plump 
wearer ; the bust measure is supposed to 
fit, and the wearer must, if stout, resign 
herself to a skirt like a sausage skin. 
When we see a skirt like this, combined 
with no sleeves and an exceedingly low 
neck, we feel that the critics who de¬ 
nounce modern dress have some reason 
for their diatribes. Every Summer day 
that we walk through New York’s shop¬ 
ping district w r e see women of all ages 
on the street wearing dresses that, in 
their cut, are only suitable for evening 
entertainments, but they are so familiar 
t*hat no one is shocked by the lack of cov¬ 
ering, but only by the dust and sunburn 
that give the wearer a blowsy, unwashed 
look. 
A Simple Tunic Blouse. —In the first 
picture, the figure at the left shows an¬ 
other tunic blouse, of the style that is so 
useful in making one slip or skirt form a 
part of several costumes. This tunic was 
dark blue crepe, perfectly plain, and with¬ 
out a belt. There were short sleeves, the 
tunic being cut kimono style. Over this 
was a deep cape collar of white net edged 
with a narrow ruffle. The cape part fit¬ 
ted over the shoulders and then came 
down in a long point reaching to the hem. 
A band of silk, with small fancy buttons 
set on it, went«all the way down the cen¬ 
ter, the net collar being held under this 
band. This tunic was worn over an ac¬ 
cordion-pleated skirt. Such a tunic of 
flowered or printed silk is often seen over 
a skirt of solid color. We see the same 
style of net collar on plain one-piece 
dresses, the collar extending all the way 
down to the edge of the skirt. Long 
tunics of the style figured help to solve 
the problem of the economical wardrobe, 
for a single slip consisting of bodice top 
and pleated skirt forms the foundation for 
several costumes. With one tunic of plain 
or printed silk and one of georgette one 
has the equivalent of two silk dresses. 
Another prominent feature this Summer 
is the scarf, which takes the place of a 
light w r rap. It may be of any sort of 
silk or chiffon, and often forms part of 
the dress itself. 
A Challis Sports Dress. —Another 
feature of this season is the return of 
challis, which is not so warm as flannel, 
and yet makes a serviceable dress for 
sports wear and damp days. The frock 
shown at the right in the first picture 
was powder blue, solid color, but we also 
see dotted and check challis, in very pret¬ 
ty combinations. Of course the flowered 
patterns of the older style challis are 
not used for this purpose. This is a per¬ 
fectly plain one-piece dress with a set-in 
front like a shirt bosom, and no other 
trimming except round ivory buttons set 
down the front and on the edge of the 
collar. Challis washes so well that it is 
very suitable for a white dress. White is 
very much worn in silk, flannel, challis 
and such perishable materials as geor¬ 
gette; perhaps next in favor are the yel¬ 
low shades, which are all popular. Some 
of the shops show gorgeous wraps of yel¬ 
low or white chiffon trimmed with os¬ 
trich feathers, which one would expect to 
see reserved for the most luxurious shop¬ 
pers only, but it is surprising to see what 
expensive garments are purchased by 
women whose appearance does not sug¬ 
gest wealth. The little hat worn in this 
picture was made of white kid, with a 
little fringed kid trimming at the side. 
Black and White Silk. —In the sec¬ 
ond picture, the figure at the left shows 
a pretty printed silk, white with a black 
figure, trimmed with pleated panels of 
black chiffon. The dress was the usual 
plain short-sleeved type, but bad four 
let-in panels, two in front and two in the 
back, of the pleated chiffon. Each panel 
was bordered with a narrow gimp of 
black and gold, the same gimp being used 
to border the little sleeves. The small 
collar was of white satin. This dress 
was finished with a broad scarf of the 
figured silk, with a deep band of black at 
each end. The small hat was of white 
satin, with a fringe of black ostrich feath¬ 
ers around it. 
A Pretty Child’s Frock. —The little 
dress shown for a child was of yellow 
linen, with bloomers to match. It was 
perfectly plain, cut kimono fashion with¬ 
out sleeves, and was then curved at the 
sides, which were left open. The bottom 
and sides of the skirt, neck and armholes 
were bound with green linen, and a bow 
of the green binding finished the sides at 
the top of the slash. There was a little 
pocket at each side, prettily trimmed with 
appliqued purple Irises and leaves, the 
flower itself being on the pocket, while 
the foliage extended dow T n to the edge of 
the skirt. This dress is so simple that 
the picture hardly shows how very pretty 
it is, but it was an attractive color com¬ 
bination. and a little unusual in style. 
A Simple Blue Silk. —At the right, 
the simple silk shown differs from many in 
having the skirt seamed on, which many 
women like, and there are then three 
broad bands of the silk around the skirt, 
each band having several rows of stitch¬ 
ing. The narrow vest in the waist is of 
heavy lace set in underneath. The vest is 
crossed by little bows, made of milliners’ 
folds, with loops of the bows being caught 
over small blue buttons at either side. 
The collar is trimmed w’ith narrow lace, 
also the short sleeves. This dress would 
be very pretty in a soft shade of brown, 
with trimming of coffee-colored lace. It 
would be becoming to a tall young girl 
who looks too lanky for a straight one- 
piece frock, for the seamed-on skirt with 
its banding breaks the line. 
Notes and Novelties. —Organdie is 
little seen in dresses this Summer, its 
place being taken by swiss, chiffon voile, 
and other sheer cottons, or by chiffon and 
georgette. Flock dot muslin is really dot¬ 
ted swiss, woven in many colors, and 
there are also flock dot voiles. English 
prints are much in favor; they come in 
tiny geometric designs and very pretty 
color combinations, and as they are abso¬ 
lutely fast colors they hold their fresh¬ 
ness after much laundering. 
Very practical are the sleeveless frocks 
of homespun for sports wear. They are 
made in simple tailored style to wear over 
a blouse, and are either bound with braid 
or piped with suede cloth. There is an in¬ 
verted pleat in the back to give extra full¬ 
ness. These dresses are made of bright- 
colored checks, solid colors and white. 
These dresses are offered in misses’ sizes 
for $15. An unlined flannel coat may be 
worn with such a dress. 
Among ready-made dresses, while porch 
or morning dresses are offered in pretty 
styles quite inexpensively, voile of nice 
quality, made up suitably for street wear, 
is often quite as expensive as silk. The 
universal wearing of silk is given as one 
reason for depression in the cotton trade. 
Dotted swiss in dark colors, simply 
made, is one of the most useful Summer 
dresses, being cool, pretty, and much in 
vogue. 
Bread Making and Boys 
I won’t say anything about Mrs. Will- 
cox’s system of child-raising in “Mother’s 
Day Any Day.” One only has to look 
about to see the product of that system 
in the selfish, idle young people in many 
homes. But do tell that “slave of bread” 
that she can have good bread without 
arising at four a. m. I bake bread for 
four families beside my own. I receive 
two cents more than bakers’ bread brings 
for a smaller loaf, so it must be fairly 
good. I also received first premium at 
Richfield Fair last year, beside other 
premiums at other fairs in past 10 years. 
This not to boast, but to prove my point. 
Buy compressed yeast. Don’t think you 
must have a refrigerator to keep it. It 
will keep a week in a cool place, longer 
in Winter if needed. For an ordinary 
baking use two cakes, making five or six 
loaves and biscuits. Proceed in usual 
manner, mixing down hard at once. This 
at 7 or 8 p. m. Put in a warm place to 
rise. On arising if likely to “run over” 
mix down just a little. After breakfast 
put in pans, let rise to double original 
bulk and bake. In very cold weather I 
have mixed a soft sponge at 5 p. m. and 
let get light until usual time for setting. 
I never had a batch of sour bread in my 
life, and see no need of having any. But 
when I play nursemaid to the bread pan 
at 4 a. m. my family will eat bakers’ 
bread. 
By the way, I have a son nearly 18 
(an only child.) I have taught all my 
life and boarded in various families. I 
started out to prove that it was possible 
to raise an only child without proving 
an example of the “hen with one chick.” 
As soon as he was big enough he had 
his chores. At three and a half he car¬ 
ried water to several hundred little 
chicks by means of a 5-lb. lard pail. At 
12 we could leave him to milk four or 
five cows, separate milk, etc., if neces¬ 
sary. When I want a pail of water or 
something after seated at table he gets 
it as a matter of course. He can cook 
a decent meal, bake biscuits or a credi¬ 
table loaf of cake, and is no “sissy” 
either; is six feet tall, loves to hunt* and 
fish, is an excellent shot, got $5 last Sum¬ 
mer at hard work road-building and is 
getting $60 per month and board at pres¬ 
ent for 10-hour day on a country estate. 
The hardest part is now to keep him 
from influence of other boys raised in 
idleness to run a car and spend money. 
We have a good young team, young 
stock, purebred poultry, etc., and this 
Fall are going to look for a home in a 
new location (if we can find a farm 
where as soon as it is improved a little 
the landlord doesn’t want to raise the 
rent.) MBS. A. G. R. 
Mincemeat 
This is a favorite rule: 4 lbs. lean 
boiled chopped meat, 9 lbs. raw chopped 
apples, three teaspoons ground cloves, 1 y 2 
lbs. chopped suet or beef fat, 10 teaspoons 
cinnamon, 2 or 3 lbs. raisins, five tea¬ 
spoons ground allspice, three tablespoons 
salt, 5 lbs. brown sugar, iy 2 qts. vinegar 
(mild). Add 1 qt. gooseberries, jelly or 
preserves of any kind. This makes about 
12 one-quart cans. MRS. o. c. F. 
3 Pairs $ 3= 
Ladies’ pure 
SILK HOSE 
DELIVERED FRESH FROM 
OUR FACTORY. 
Cheap labor conditions and elimination 
of middleman’s profit enable you to 
save $1.50 on each box of 3 pairs and 
get real genuine silk, beautiful well-fit- 
ting hose, with 4-thread heel and toe, 
tight-fitting ankle, fashion marks and 
lisle top. 
Black, white, brown, nude, pearl grey, 
log cabin, dawn, banana, peach, or can 
match any shade. 
Send check or Money Order, specifying 
size and color. After examining hose if not 
satisfied, money will be promptly refunded. 
PISGAH MAID HOSIERY CO. 
Hendersonville, N. C. 
The 
“Pride” 
Send for 
Catalog 80 
A Modern Bathroom, $60 
Just one ot our wonderful bargains. Set com¬ 
prises a 4, 4*£ or 6 foot Iron enamelled roll rim 
bath tub, one 19 inch roll rim enamelled flat- 
back lavatory, and a syphon action, wash-down 
water closet with porcelain tank and oat post 
hinge seat; all china index faucets, nickel-plated 
traps, and all nickel-plated heavy fittings. 
J. M. SEIDENBERG CO., Inc. 
254 W. 34 Si. Bet. 7th and 8th Avea. N. Y. C. 
ETHICUS POWDER 
-for- 
INDIGESTION 
Always quick reliaf. Removes causa. 
16 doaas—60e—by mail 
ETHICUS LAB., 1819 B’way, N. Y. City 
*» r- q'i/ f 
LOOMS $9.90 
ANO UP. BIQ MONEY IN 
WEAVING AT HOME 
No experience necessary to weavo 
beautiful rugs, carpets, etc., on 
UNION LOOMS from rags and 
waste material. Home weaving is 
fascinating and highly profitable. 
Weavers are rushed with order*. 
Bo sure to send f or freeloom book. If 
tells all .bout wear In* and our wonder, 
fully low-pric.d. easily-operated looaaa, 
UNION LOOM WORKS L48BFiclor| St.. BOONVILLE, N.V. 
-- ■ W 
Fresh From the Ovens 
Ivins famous Philadelphia- 
baked Cookie - cakes and 
Crackers. Packed and lock¬ 
ed tight in the Ivins Home 
Canister—fresh and crisp— 
shipped by parcel post. 
Direct to Your Home 
For $1.00 we will send you postpaid a 2-canister assortment; 
or for $2.00 a 4-canister assortment—each a different variety 
— each fragrantly fresh from the Ivins Ovens—the most 
delicious you have ever tasted. 
Cookie-cakes and Crackers 
3 . S. IVINS’ SON, Inc., 619 N. Broad St., Philadelphia 
Baker of good biscuits in Philadelphia since 1846 
