Jht RURAL NEW-YORKER 
Farm Mechanics 
Conducted by Robert H. Smith, of the Canton Agricultural School 
Canton, New York 
Driving Pipe in Well 
My well here has gone dry with no 
chance of getting water elsewhere. What 
do you think about driving a pipe in the 
bottom of present well? Some people 
say it is practically absurd; others say 
it is very practical, and can be done. 
Bottom of well seems gravelly, but 
around here we have hardpan for a sub¬ 
soil, and I feel doubtful about it being 
possible to drive a pipe down through the 
hardpan and rock such as we have in 
New Hampshire. We are located on a 
slope towards river, 500 feet from river, 
would have to go down about 20 feet to 
level of river. Any information you 
can give me on that line will be much ap¬ 
preciated. w. R. L. 
New Hampshire. 
The success of your efforts in this di¬ 
rection will depend very much upon the 
character of the soil encountered. Wells 
of this type are adapted to loose soils as 
sands and gravels and to moderately 
shallow depths. Where the conditions 
are met the method that you have sug¬ 
gested can be used. 
From what I am able to gather from 
your letter however I would suggest 
drilling. The well could then be sunk to 
a permanent water level and a good sup¬ 
ply assured regardless of haa-dpan or 
stone. 
Using Old Car Motor 
I want information in regard to equip- 
ing a four-cylinder Overland motor, 1914 
model to a buzzsaw. The motor in this 
car is in first-class shape and I do not 
want to junk motor with the old car. 
My idea is to mount this motor in line 
with the countershaft on saw frame on 
a set of skids, disconnect drive shaft on 
car at clutch and put in a new shaft; 
connect to clutch on through to saw. 
This drive shaft would possibly be six 
feet long. Would I have to put on a 
governor so as to hold the speed of 
motor under control, and where can I 
get such a governor? Would this motor 
handle a 85-inch saw? What size drive 
shaft would I have to have. I have seen 
a Dodge motor hooked up this way run¬ 
ning a line shaft in a machine shop in 
a garage. J. a. g. 
New York. 
I would suggest that you mount the 
engine to the rear of the saw, driving 
the saw with a belt. An idler can be 
used on the belt to keep it sufficiently 
taut and to give it the proper wrap 
about the small pulley on the saw man¬ 
drel. 
The use of the belt is suggested for 
two reasons: (1) It is not probable that 
you would use a saw larger than 30-in. 
diameter for wood sawing and a saw of 
this size should run around 1200 r.p.m. 
to have sufficient rim velocity for best 
results. This speed would be rather high 
for the motor unless a belt drive were 
used to permit increasing the speed. 12) 
A belt drive is desirable in that it makes 
a safety connecting link between the 
motor and the saw. Should the saw be 
suddenly pinched the belt can slip a lit¬ 
tle relieving the strain. If coupled as 
you suggest a section of l^-in. shafting 
would be amply strong or it might be 
possible to use the old propeller shaft 
of the car. 
With the throttle where it could be 
easily reached by the man at the saw 
table it would be possible to control the 
speed while sawing by means of this and 
the rate of feed on the saw. Your local 
garage dealer can doubtless tell you where 
you can get a governor adapted to this 
engine although the price may be rather 
high. r. h. s. 
Filtering Turbid Water 
We have drilled a well 104 ft. deep, 
with 6-in. casing. It is fitted with pump 
and iy±-in. pipe, and we can and do hitch 
on the two-horsepower gas engine at 
times, although we have no tank. There 
is a two-story addition to the house over 
this well, and the flat roof has just 
enough pitch to drain well. We are con¬ 
templating putting a 150-gallon tank on 
the roof, directly over where the well is 
located. This water carries a small 
amount of sediment and it has a decided 
iron taste. Would a filter where water 
enters tank clear the water, and, if so, 
what should the filter tank t>e filled with, 
and how should it be packed? j. n. s. 
Mullica Hill, N. J. 
The plan that you have outlined has 
several defects that I would suggest you 
attempt to remedy before installing the 
system described. The exposed position 
of the water tank will give you warm, 
unpalatable water throughout the Sum¬ 
mer, and a tank subject to freezing dur¬ 
ing the colder months. The weight of a 
150-gallon tank when filled with water 
will be considerably over one-half ton, 
about 1,500 lbs., and this may be more 
than your roof frame is designed to sup¬ 
port without sagging, particularly as it 
is concentrated in one spot. 
If the water is for household use I 
would suggest instead the use of one of 
the automatic types of pumping systems 
if you have electricity available, or one 
of the pneumatic systems. Either of 
these will give you water practically 
fresh from the well, although the cost 
will be more than for the gravity system 
you have outlined. It is possible that 
you have a more sheltered location for 
your supply tank. 
A filter is seldom advised for farm use 
because of the care required to keep one 
in proper condition. Sand and animal 
charcoal makes one of the best, but it 
should not be placed where the water is 
pumped through it, as you suggest, but 
rather where the water can seep slowly 
through it. I would suggest the use of a 
lime in your water to clear it. Ordinar¬ 
ily stone lime will frequently clear turbid 
water by causing the little particles of 
sediment to gather together and settle to 
the bottom. In certain cases alum is 
used in the form of an aluminum sul¬ 
phate. It is used in the proportion of 
1 oz. to every 60 cu. ft. of water, about 
one grain per gallon. 
Concrete Floor in Granary 
Is concrete floor good in granary, or is 
there harm to grain from cement floor, or 
any dampness? I was going to put wood¬ 
en floor in my new building. . The build¬ 
ing is going to be 2 ft. above level ground. 
I have plenty of stones to fill up 2 ft. 
high. c. P. 
Delanson, N. Y. 
With your floor as well above ground 
level as you plan to make it there would be 
little or no trouble from dampness coming 
up through the concrete. In adiition, the 
concrete floor will be tight, and will pre¬ 
vent rats and mice from working up 
through it. A floor made from a mixture 
of one part cement, two parts clean, well- 
graded sand, the particles ranging in size 
from i/4 in- down, and four parts clean 
gravel or broken stone, laid 4 in. thick, 
will be satisfactory. When laid in this 
thickness and with this mixture, a sack 
of cement, costing about 85 cents, will lay 
about 13.5 sq. ft. of floor. This makes 
the cost of cement a little over 6 cents 
per square foot. If laid with planks cost¬ 
ing $50 per 1,000 ft. the floor would cost 
at the rate of 10 cents per square foot. 
The above estimate does not include cost 
of sleepers beneath plank floor, nor gravel 
in the case of the concrete floor. Usually 
gravel can be obtained locally at little or 
no cost other than the labor cost of haul- 
in. The labor cost of laying the floor has 
not been included in either case. 
Lightning Arrester for 
Water Pipe 
I would like to know how to get a 
thunder shower’s electricity off a water 
pipe entering kitchen. This pipe carries 
spring water into kitchen. Along comes 
a charge of electricity, passes a sleeve on 
pipe, hits a wire attaching pipe rigidly 
to kitchen sink, and sparks, hiss and 
spatter that look unsafe. This happens 
with heavy strokes of lightning and thun¬ 
der, and quite often with distant strokes. 
What would keep this “loose” electricity 
in the ground? This does not touch a 
lightning rod, this latter being 4 ft. from 
water pipe and will not be moved. Can’t 
another carrier take it off the pipe? 
Lenover, Pa. J. R. R. 
If you will connect your water pipe 
with your lightning rod by heavy copper 
wire, about No. 10, seeing that you have 
a very good connection on both the light¬ 
ning rod and the water pipe, you will 
have no more trouble. Scrape the pipe 
well and wind well before you wind wire 
on them. It would be still better if you 
could solder the wire to it. 
Preserving a Shingle Roof 
Can anything be done to prolong the 
life of a shingle roof? I have just 
bought a small property and am told the 
roof was reshingled two or three years 
ago. Around here I do not see anything 
done to preserve roofs of this sort, and 
yet think it may be possible. a. e. f. 
West Chester, Pa. 
There are a number of creosote stains 
on the market for treating shingles which 
are said t prolong the life of the wood 
considerably, as well as to make it more 
attractive in appearance. To get the 
preservative effect to the fullest extent, 
however, the stain should be applied be¬ 
fore the shingles are laid. In this way 
all surfaces of the shingle are covered 
and better penetration is secured. Where 
the stain is applied to the roof after the 
shingles are in place it is doubtful if the 
life is increased sufficiently to warrant 
the exnense. unless the decorative effect 
is also desired. 
1091 
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A NEW BOOK By JOHN J. DILLON 
This book is written in three 
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The Rural New-Yorker, 333 West 30th St., New York 
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