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W* RURAL NEW-YORKER ||3? 
The Home Dressmaker 
Skirts and Waist Lines. —We have 
(become so accustomed to the low waist 
line and the lead-pencil silhouette that we 
have almost forgotten preceding styles. 
This Summer the straight, close-fitting 
gown, without sleeves, and often as low 
in the neck as an evening gown, has left 
very little of the wearer’s person to the 
imagination, and it is not surprising that 
new Fall styles show a decided change. 
It is unfortunate that so many women 
adopt any prevailing fashion without the 
slightest regard to its becomingness, for 
a skimpy little sleeveless frock which we 
may forgive on a pretty young girl be¬ 
comes grotesque, or even repulsive, on a 
stout woman with brawny arms. How¬ 
ever, the new Fall dresses display long 
sleeves, often quite tight, skirts with a 
decided flare, and a higher waist line. 
Dresses made earlier in the season may 
be altered hy raising the girdle a little. 
The flare is given in some of the new 
A Sensible Juvenile, and a Flaring Skirt 
dresses by the insertion of godet pleats 
at the sides. There is also much greater 
use of white collars and cuffs than there 
has ‘been for some time, especially of fine 
lingerie and embroidered linen materials. 
Rengaline appears as the new silk, made 
in plain, rather tailored styles, with flar¬ 
ing skirts, long sleeves, and the white 
collars and cuffs. 
A Sensible Little Frock. —In the 
first picture the child shows an unusually 
pretty little frock of wool plaid. The 
plaid was red and white with a line of 
black, and it was bound with broad 
black braid. The dress opened down the 
front, fastenings being invisible except¬ 
ing the three black silk buttons at the 
top, which passed through buttonholes 
bound with black silk. The battlement 
of the closing was repeated in the turn¬ 
back cuff with its buttons, and the nar¬ 
row belt was made of the braid. For 
Winter wear we would prefer this dress 
made with long sleeves, which migut be 
gathered into a narrow cuff bound with 
braid. This dress is so simple that it 
might be copied with almost any plain 
pattern. A figured challis would be pret¬ 
ty'made in this way, though plaids are 
much in favor for juvenile and adult 
wear. The little hat shown is a tailored 
style of black satin, with a band of plaid 
ribbon tied with loops and ends. 
Tiie New Skirt. —The figure at the 
right shows the new flaring silhouette. 
This dress was of bengaline in a rich 
reddish purple or purplish red called 
Venetian fuchsia. The dress was in one 
piece, and the flare given by godet pleats 
that were graduated from hem to waist. 
There were two of these pleats in front 
and the back was quite flat, though the 
skirt had a very noticeable flare. The 
waist was cut down to a deep point in 
front, but was round at the top, and had 
a circular banding fastened with a little 
jeweled slide in front. The pointed open¬ 
ing had a little vestee of fine white ba¬ 
tiste, but this did not reach as high as 
the circular band. The long full bishop 
sleeves were gathered into narrow cuffs. 
The only trimming was a spray of flowers 
and foliage across the front of the waist 
line. This was cut out of the same ma¬ 
terial as the dress, and embroidered on, 
the flower being double. We see this sort 
of appliqued trimming used very freely, 
in various materials. In one ease, a 
dress of dark navy blue silk was trimmed 
with applique flowers of deep rose, cut 
from glazed chintz, these flowers being of 
several sizes. Small ones outlined a deep 
bib yoke of light blue silk, while larger 
ones were arranged on the front of the 
skirt. Such trimmings are very effective 
when well arranged and neatly put on. 
The New Coat Dress.— We find the 
coat dress very much in evidence again, 
though there are some 'slight variations 
in cut, and like the other new dresses, it 
suggests a definite waist line. In the 
second picture, the figure at the left 
shows a coat dress of black bengaline. It 
had no belt or girdle, but fitted rather 
snugly. The closing, finished with revers, 
curved to the left side, where the dress is 
fastened with three red bone buttons, 
with bound buttonholes. White collar 
and cuffs of batiste and lace formed the 
trimming, with a little crossed vestee in 
the opening below the collar. The hat 
shown is one of the new wide shapes 
promised for Autumn wear; it is black 
satin trimmed with a large spreading 
black satin bow. 
Yellow Voile and Lace. —The little 
dress in the center shows a pretty effect 
with a familiar pattern. It is just one 
of the straight dresses with raglan 
sleeves, but is very prettily trimmed by 
carrying narrow Valenciennes lace and 
insertion up the raglan seams to the neck. 
Similar trimming finished neck and 
wrists, while the skirt was trimmed with 
disks of the joined insertion bordered by 
a frill of lace. The same style is very 
pretty for a child’s fine white dress. 
The little hat, made of stitched folds of 
yellow silk trimmed with corded loops at 
the side, is one of the simple styles now 
so popular for children. Elaborate head- 
gear, loaded with trimming, is entirely 
out of date for Children, though we often 
find that the simpler a Child’s wardrobe, 
the more expensive it is. 
A Threb-piece Suit. — The costume 
shown at the right was a three-piece 
sports suit of a style much in vogue for 
Autumn. It was a combination of dark 
red cloth with ribbed silk of the same 
shade, the skirt of the cloth being made 
in box pleats, which were laid in points 
»t the top over the silk waist. This 
waist was entirely plain, buttoned 
straight down the front with dark red 
glass buttons. The loose box coat had a 
facing of .points around the bottom, and 
cuffs of the silk with a triangular inser¬ 
tion of the cloth. This was one of those 
semi-tailored suits which are not beyond 
the skill of the home dressmaker, though 
it is always well to have a skirt pleated 
by a professional, for their appliances 
put in a firmer pleat than can be done at 
home. The hat worn by this model is 
dark red soft felt, trimmed with a fancy 
feather of black glycerined ostrich. 
Notes and Novelties. —Some - of the 
new felt hats showing Fall styles have a 
high crown and rather narrow drooping 
brim, suggesting a Directoire poke bon¬ 
net. Drooping 'brush-like aigrettes are 
favored in trimming. Both black and 
white are to be popular in millinery, 
while favored new colors are shutter or 
artichoke green, burnt russet and Vene¬ 
tian fuchsia. 
Tunic blouses continue popular ; some 
are almost as long as a dress, while 
others are only fingertip length. With a 
silk slip, either plain or pleated skirt, 
such a blouse makes a complete costume. 
Materials used are crepe de chine, geor¬ 
gette, bengaline and brocaded Chiffon vel¬ 
vet. Such tunics are worn with tailored 
suits having the new long coats. The new 
suits with long coats are called ensemble 
costumes, as the coat may be worn with 
other afternoon dresses, while the long 
tunic makes the skirt into another cos¬ 
tume. Some of the slips to wear with 
tunics are plain, some finished with a 
pleated flounce, while others have folds 
at the bottom. Plain slips of sateen, 
A Coat Dress and Some Ideas in 
Trimming 
lingette or soisette are far better for wear 
under thin wash dresses than a separate 
underskirt and camisole; they fit better, 
and there is no risk of a gap at the 
waistline. The slip is as straight and 
plain as a chemise, and much easier than 
two garments to launder. 
Bishop purple, a rich and glowing col¬ 
or, is shown in some of the new hats. 
August is the season for fur sales, and 
we see the advance styles in all sorts of 
fur garments. Taupe muskrat, trimmed 
with fitch or brown ermine, is listed as a 
special novelty. Bronze dyed ermine, 
with collar of bronze dyed fox, and bronze 
dyed caracul, are also to be especially 
fashionable. Ermine has always been ad¬ 
mired for its snowy purity, but modern 
artificial fashion must dye it. A coat 
of natural mink, 48 in. long, was offered 
in one of the August sales for $875. 
Cheapest of all the fur coats were natural 
muskrat, offered in some sales as low as 
$65 for a 28-in. coat. 
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\ - 
f" AGENTS: We are now ready to appoint County Agents. Write~\ 
L for details and give us complete information about yourself. J 
Dep’t M THE REGINA CORPORATION, Rahway, New Jersey 
-IsThere a HAAG 
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The 
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Send tor 
Catalog 80 
3 pairs‘2 
fine hose direct from mill 
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Walk-Ezy Hosiery Company, 
Box 118-Y, Phllllpsburg, N. J. 
Please send me 3 pairs above described hose. I will 
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Sizes.Colors. 
Name. 
Post Office 
CR0CHETERS 
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THE RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 West 30th Street New York City 
