The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1153 
Simple Science 
By Dr. F. D. Crane 
Clogged Water Pipe 
Is there anything that I can put in 
my water pipes that will remove the 
rust? I have a gravity system running 
from a spring to a storage tank in the 
upstairs room of the house through a 
one inch galvanized pipe. The spring is 
about half a mile from my buildings and 
I should say has about three feet fall 
from spring to storage tank. The water 
will come on and run for a week or 10 
days and then go off for three or four 
days. We can always get a small stream 
through the pipe where it enters the 
cellar though it will not run in the 
storage tank. The spring is always full 
even when we cannot get water from the 
storage tank. When the water is off and 
disconnect the pipe in the cellar 
by holding my hand over the end of the 
pipe. I find quite a pressure but do not 
create any head of water. This line is 
laid below the frost line and it would be 
quite an expensive job to dig it up and 
lay a new line. It has not bothered only 
the last five months. G. B. T. 
New York. 
We do not think there is much of any 
help for you. The slope of the pipe, 
even allowing for the fact that it enters 
your cellar, is slight for a half mile run. 
and the trouble is likely due, for the most 
part, to sediment as well as rust. You 
can try muriatic (hydrochloric acid), one 
part to four or five of water by volume, 
if you want to take a chance on cutting 
a hole in a thin spot in the pipe. Figure 
the cubic contents of the pipe, make up 
the right amount, empty the pipe and fill 
with the dilute acid. It will do all it 
can in a few hours, and may then be 
run out and the water allowed to flow 
for a time. 
If you ever get the thing open, arrange 
for a constant flow through the pipe, 
making some suitable arrangements for 
the excess at the house. This may slow¬ 
ly clear the pipe. And, by all means, 
put a good strainer on the spring end, 
arranged to clear itself by gravity. 
Chloride of tin solution has . been sug¬ 
gested as better than acid, but it is 
harder to get and more expensive. A 
second, or third acid treatment will be 
indicated if the first helps a little. 
Rust in Water Heater 
* 4 VATE deliveries make 
Mu dissatisfied custom¬ 
ers and high tire costs 
cut my profits —so I use' 
Red-Tops. They’re the 
only tires I can really de¬ 
pend on to keep my car 
on the job every hour 
day in and day out.” 
The secret of Red-Top’s 
ability to stand more 
hard knocks than other 
tires is found in its extra 
ply and its extra heavy 
tough red tread. This 
heavier and stronger 
construction adds thou¬ 
sands of miles to its life. 
-the 
store 
keeper 
Time to Re-tire 
Get a Fisk 
Trade Mark Reg. U. S. 
Pat. Off. 
The water in our water heater, at¬ 
tached to a stove, is rusty since we at¬ 
tached a new stove. What can be done? 
We use rainwater. c. F. H. 
The trouble comes from the water-back 
in the new stove, and is likely to continue 
as long as you have that casting there. 
Very similar trouble in hot-water house 
heating systems is often cured by putting 
a little water glass (sodium silicate, the 
same thing used for preserving eggs) in 
the system, but of course the water so 
treated stays there. If I had that trouble 
I should try emptying the whole thing, 
and then putting in just enough water to 
insure filling the water-back in the stove, 
having added to that water a pint or so of 
water glass solution, and letting this stay 
in several hours, then drawing it off and 
rinsing well. There is a chance it would 
help. 
As you are using distilled water (the 
sun does the distilling, to be sure, but 
that is a mere detail), your only impuri¬ 
ties are oxygen and carbon dioxide, but 
this solution of these gases in pure water 
is a first-rate ruster for cast-iron. Some 
day in the Fall when you also have water 
extract of leaves, from the leaves in the 
gutters, you may be surprised by a run 
of purple or black water, due to the tan¬ 
nin present. If you could get a piece of 
zinc hung in the water by an iron wire 
connected to the iron pipe, but clear from 
all else, it might reverse the polarity of 
the cast-iron water-back, and then you 
would probably have no more trouble. 
That works well in steam boilers in some 
cases. The amount of zinc which would 
dissolve would be insignificant. 
Vaporizer for Gasoline 
Are the various types of “vaporizers” 
advertised as being able to increase the 
mileage of a gallon of gasoline to about 
40-50 miles reasonable? F. R. 
There are many of these vaporizers on 
the market, and doubtless some of them 
will increase the mileage obtainable from 
a gallon of gasoline somewhat, as the 
more finely divided the fluid gasoline is 
when it reaches the combustion chamber 
the better the result secured from it will 
be, as it will be more completely burned. 
The average mileage obtainable with a 
Ford is probably around 18 miles per 
gallon, and any claim to increase this to 
40 or 50 is extravagant. Most of these 
devices are sold at an enormous profit, 
and the same amount of money used in 
keeping the ignition and fuel line checked 
up will usually bring greater results. 
• OkO 
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