Ibe RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1243 
The Home Dressmaker 
Fall Clothes. —Fall is the season 
for a decided change in clothes, and it 
is interesting to note some of the ten¬ 
dencies now appearing. The chief 
changes are the suggestion of a natural 
waist line, the disappearance of belts 
from tunics and skirts, the greater flare 
at the hem, and the shorter skirt. The 
newest styles have long sleeves, however, 
which is welcome; we are all tired of 
the sleeveless, low-necked dresses that 
have been so prevalent all Summer, and, 
in many cases, both unbecoming and un¬ 
suitable for street wear. Brilliant col¬ 
ors seem likely to be in favor, and em¬ 
broidered trimmings remain popular. The 
coat dress seems to lead in tailored street 
models, for early Fall wear in ottoman, 
faille, bengaline, satin or crepe, while 
woolen reps, twill or jersey will be favor¬ 
ed for cooler days. While blue and black 
are always in style, first choice this Fall 
is brown in a rather warm shade. 
Simplicity in Plaid. —In the illustra¬ 
tion the figure at the left shows a new 
Fall street dress in wool plaid, which 
would be very suitable for a high school 
or college girl, or for her elder sister. It 
is a perfectly plain one-piece beltless 
frock, but does not hang, shapelessly; 
there is a very slight flare at the bottom, 
and a little curve in at the waist. The 
long sleeves are gathered in at the wrist. 
Silk or satin hats are still much worn, 
but there is an increasing interest in felt 
and velvet, and it seems likely that more 
of the Winter hats will be of these ma¬ 
terials. 
A Mourning Dress. —The figure wear¬ 
ing the scarf shows a mourning dress of 
black dull-finished crepe. The skirt of 
this was seamed on the waist, which was 
long and slightly fitting. The skirt had 
horizontal lines of spaced pin tucks and 
was trimmed at the side with four flat 
bows of the material. The gauntlet 
cuffs were rather unusual, being made 
in rolls, apparently over a stiffened lin¬ 
ing. This was in accordance with the 
stricter ideas of deep mourning, which 
admit rolls, bows and tucks, but not 
firills, pleatings or lace. The scarf was 
the same material as the dress, with a 
deep fringe of dull silk. The hat was of 
crape, with a glycerined pompon at the 
side ; the high square crown is charac¬ 
teristic of this season’s newer modes. 
The scarf is a very important part of 
the costume this Fall, very often match¬ 
ing the dress This mourning hat had a 
small white cording around the edge of 
the brim, but would be still more becom¬ 
ing if faced with white georgette. 
An Old Fashion Revived. —The dress 
at the extreme right shows a revival of 
an old fashion in its row of prim little 
A Group Shotting Favored Styles in Fall Gowns 
There was a slash pocket at one side, 
and a short rolled collar. The only trim¬ 
ming was the long cravat of black satin, 
tied like a four-in-hand, and reaching al¬ 
most to the knee. This was a very smart 
frock, and certainly sensible. The ma¬ 
terial was one of the typical Scotch tar¬ 
tans, with a good deal of red combined 
with dark green. The hat worn, a dark 
green felt with a narrow band and droop¬ 
ing cockade of black grosgrain, shows 
the new high square crown seen in the 
Autumn modes. 
Horizontal Stripes. — The dress 
shown next to it is equally plain—an¬ 
other development of the beltless model. 
This was made of one of the new wool¬ 
ens with horizontal stripes, a handsome 
mingling of brown and coppery red. This 
dress was also entirely plain and with¬ 
out a belt. It had an opening at one 
side of the round neck, fastened with 
round bronze buttons and cord loops; 
there was a similar row of buttons near 
the hem on the left side, and finishing 
the sleeves. These sleeves flared slightly, 
so as to show a lining of copper-colored 
silk. The high-crowned hat was of cop¬ 
per felt trimmed with bronze ribbon. 
Both these dresses are simple, dignified 
and sensible, and they reflect the best of 
the Autumn modes. 
Tunics Again. —The figure in the cen¬ 
ter shows another of the very popular 
tunics. This was a plain beltless tunic 
of heavy brown crepe, the lower part 
deeply slashed. The slashes were edged 
with fancy silk braid, with a row of flat 
satin buttons down one side. The long 
tight sleeves, wrinkling a little at the 
wrist, were merely trimmed with buttons; 
the neck was finished with a roll collar 
of ecru crepe de chine. The skirt worn 
with this was figured crepe in shades of 
bronze, blue and fawn. Sometimes we 
see these tunics with a long sloping 
panel of contrasting color which appears 
in the skirt, or of satin-backed crepe, 
with a skirt of the same material made 
up with the satin side out. One-piece 
dresses are made in the same way, the 
dress itself being of the crepe, while 
panel or other trimmings show the satin 
back of the material. The tunic is really 
a wonderful help to a modest wardrobe; 
with one bodice-top skirt, and tunics or 
overblouses that go with it, the effect is 
as varied as with several dresses. It is 
quite true lhat one may paj as much xor 
a tunic as for a complete dress, but the 
home dressmaker may produce a good 
effect at much lower cost. The hat shown 
was one of the larger shapes now com¬ 
ing in, of brown satin, trimmed with 
folds and flowers of the same material. 
bows all down the front. If we look 
back _ to some old fashion plate of the 
crinoline period we find the same &tyle 
of trimming, with the same dainty muslin 
collar and cuffs. This dress was one of 
the new soft shades of brown, the ma¬ 
terial being bengaline. The bows were 
leatherized ribbon, rather stiff and quite 
flat and formal. The notched coat col¬ 
lar is a new feature, and is seen on many 
such gowns. Pockets inset with a strap 
across the top, were placed at each side. 
The collar and jabot attached to the 
vestee were of fine embroidered batiste. 
This style is seen in cloth, with the 
notched collar and a row of buttons all 
down the front, and is often called a 
frock-coat dress. Some attractive ex¬ 
amples seen were made of English block 
tweed. The hat shown was a plain felt. 
Notes and Novelties. —We have seen 
some charming new challies which will 
make attractive Fall dresses; they are 
almost as fine as crepe de chine, printed 
in patterns like foulard. Various shades 
of blue, violet and gray, printed in black, 
were especially pretty. 
New dress hats are large and pictur¬ 
esque, going back to the old-time picture 
hats. We are told that all Paris is 
wearing them, but they certainly will not 
harmonize with bobbed hair. Some of 
the noticeably new ones are made of 
pleated taffeta. 
Smart new kid gloves, in a variety of 
light colors and white, have fancy cuffs 
in embroidery and cut work. They are 
very fashionable, but a girl who must 
wear her things a long time, and con¬ 
sider economy, should avoid fancy gloves. 
A plain style with strap or Biarritz 
wrist, in washable suede or white pique 
kid or lambskin, wears long, cleans well, 
and always looks ladylike. We do not 
advise light gray or mode, for accord¬ 
ing to our experience they do not always 
clean well. 
Foreign authorities say that muffs are 
to be fashionable again. One hardly 
ever saw them during the past two Win¬ 
ters. yet they are a wonderful comfort 
to the chilly. Bronze is the newest color 
in furs, and it is seen in American 
broadtail (dyed lamb) ermine and cara¬ 
cul. New fur coats show puffed melon 
sleeves, peasant sleeves, flaring cuffs, and 
other marked differences from last Win¬ 
ter. The new fur-trimmed coats show 
bands of fur all the way down the front, 
sometimes merely edging it, and some¬ 
times forming a panel widening at the 
bottom. Among the fashionable furs 
used to trim the coats are dyed, natural 
and Viatka squirrel, civet cat, black or 
platinum wolf, beaver, muskrat. 
Quality Kitchen Ranges 
Country Housewives Now 
Enjoy City Conveniences 
with the Alcazar Kerosene Gas Cook Stove 
Cooks even better, operates as easily, is controlled as perfectly 
as the city gas range—burns a large proportion of air with 
the kerosene oil, making real fuel economy. 
Since this efficient model has been produced, every country 
housewife can enjoy at much lower cost the same cooking con¬ 
veniences as city women. 
f here.is an Alcazar range for every kitchen—for every cook¬ 
ing need from the big Duplex-Alcazar, burning wood or 
coal and kerosene oil, singly or together, to the latest types of 
coal and wood ranges. 
See the Alcazar dealer in your town before you buy your 
range—or write direct to us. 
Alcazar Range & Heater Co. 
429 Cleveland Ave., Milwaukee, Wis. 
The 
HOOD 
Furnace 
Has The 
Straight- 
Sided 
FIRE POT 
Always Clean 
Always Hot 
The Common Sloping-Sided 
Pot—lined with ashes. 
The Hood Straight-Sided 
Fire Pot. Always clean— 
Always Hot. 
HOOD FURNACES 
Burn a lot less coal for the same 
heating effect. They require less furnace 
tending. 
There’s a Hood Furnace for your 
home, whether it is large or small, 
whether you must burn gas, hard coal, 
or soft coal. 
All. 
lift Wool 
be without them. 
Now you can buy young¬ 
sters play-hose with fancy 
turnover tops. English- * 
ribbed legs and reinforced 
heels ana toes, made ex¬ 
actly like men's golf 
stockings. They come in 
rich brown heather colors, bo popular now 
amongNewYork'swell dressed outdoor men. 
Just the thing to wear this Kali and Winter, 
with knickers for scout work, bicycling, bik¬ 
ing, baseball, skating or in the gymnasium. 
Warm and wooly, yet b"ilt strong to with¬ 
stand hard wear. No well-dressed boy will 
_ Fine for sister's outfit, too. Neatly packed. 
three of one size to the box. When ordering, check correct size. 
LITTLE BOYS* IN-BETWEEN BOYS* BIG BOYS* 
8 als e 94 io 104 
SEND NO MONEY 
Simply deposit amount with postman when 
you receive the package, plus a few cents for 
postage. Satisfaction guaranteed or money 
cheerfully refunded. 
Special dineounfit for quantities to 
Boy Scout Troops 
A. & P. T. COMPANY, Dept. C 
FELIX PETIGNV 
2405 Broadway Now York, N. Y. 
Ask us the name of the 
Hood dealer near you 
Hood Furnace and 
Supply Co. 
Dept. E, 
Corning, N. Y, 
TAXIDERMIST 
ALL KINDS OF GAME AND DEER HEADS MOUNTED 
BY EXPERTS AT REASONABLE CHARGES 
Established tsoe. 
GEORGE H. LESSER 
Johnstown - New York 
FREE—INSIDE FACTS About WELLS 
and the BES'i WAY for CleaningThem 
THE BESTWAY MFG CO. Aberdeen, Maryland 
Barrels of Slightly Damaged Crockery c ci"k 
ingwai e, Glassware, etc., shipped direct from factory to 
consumer. Write usfor panic. E.SW«EY t CO . Parliand,Maine 
WATERPROOF! ONI 
GUAr’anVIS 1 tterjiu* 4 
absolutely warm anti dry. T 
Goat is made of genuine U.a. 
Gas Mask cloth, has rubber backii 
Is double stitched, all seams ra 
fully sewed and cemented. STYLI 
aa well as WATERPROOF. Has 
around belt, two roomy slash po< 
eta, adjustable tabs to tighi 
Cut extra full. Siz« 
to 48. Average length 45 inch 
A bargain at $4.49. Order St; 
No. 118. 
Style No. 120. Goodyear Guari 
teed Waterproof top coat. Doub 
breasted, 4-button model. 81a 
convertible pockets. Color, M< 
Brown. Extra good value at S8.9 
Sizes; 34 to 48; length 46 inches. 
SEND NO MONEY. We ship C.O. 
postage prepaid. Money back 
once if not satisfied. Order todi 
International Commercial Houie, li 
433 Breadway. OcpL B326, N. Y. C 
