I29 j 
<Iht RURAL NEW-YORKER 
Farm Mechanics 
Conducted by Robert H. Smith, of the Canton Agricultural School 
Canton, New York 
Water Power Question 
About 500 feet from my house there 
is a brook that comes from a large lake 
about one and one-half miles across which 
is fed from a larger lake. This brook is 
used by a large concern to drive a num¬ 
ber of mills 13 miles away. I would like 
to know whether this brook would give 
enough power to drive a generator of size 
to give me lights for my house and other 
buildings, about 35 lights. This brook 
is kept steadily flowing since the water 
is needed at the other end. I have no 
desirable place to make a dam. Would 
it be possible to use some kind of an 
undershot wheel to give sufficient power 
to meet my requirements? This brook is 
fully 12 or 15 feet wide and 2 y% to 3 
feet deep. Water flows with considerable 
velocity. Sometimes when the dry sea¬ 
son comes on in August, the brook is shut 
down over Saturday and Sunday. If I 
did find a place to make a dam two feet 
higher, that is keep back four feet of 
water for about 200 feet, the width of 
the brook, would this last me for the two 
days? Would the brook when normal 
give the required power? Are storage 
batteries necessary where steady power 
is available? s. k. 
Connecticut. 
If you have any means of getting a 
fall of a few feet in a stream the size 
that you mention, you have ample water 
power for practically any farm purpose. 
With a velocity of 100 feet per minute a 
stream of this size would develop approxi¬ 
mately 28 horse power if a five-foot fall 
could be obtained. 
Storage batteries are not necessary 
where the power is continuous and suffi¬ 
ciently great to furnish current for the 
lights. As to being able to store suffi¬ 
cient water to tide over two days, I am 
unable to say because so much depends 
upon the character of the stream banks. 
I am inclined to think however, that it 
would be a doubtful venture. Possibly 
if the water rights of the company now 
using the stream were looked into it 
would be found that they had no right to 
shut the water off in this way. r. h. s. 
A Pumping Problem 
I anticipate drawing water from a 
spring to a wash-house through a 1-in. 
pipe, distance about 12 rods, and the 
rise necessary in this distance will not 
exceed 10 ft., it not being convenient to 
place equipment at spring. Will it be 
possible to use hand pump, or what will 
be the least horsepower necessary to 
draw full capacity through pipe? Will 
the fact that the pipe being laid in the 
ground will follow several sharp angles 
have any noticeable effect as to needs of 
additional ipower in comparison to a 
pipe laid in a direct line? w. J. m. 
Chester, N. Y. 
If the horizontal and vertical dis¬ 
tances are as you say, you will be able 
to pump water with a suction pump lo¬ 
cated at the upper end of the line. You 
neglect to say, however, how much wa¬ 
ter is needed, and I am unable to say 
whether you should use a hand or pow¬ 
er pump. If much water is needed the 
pump should be power driven. A l 1 /^- 
horsepower engine should handle the 
pump easily. 
The bends that you speak of do in¬ 
crease pipe friction, the amount depending 
upon the abruptness of the bends and 
the velocity of the water flowing 
through the pipe. If the 12 rods that 
you mention as length is the straight 
distance, angles would also increase the 
length of the line. Where the velocity 
is low, bends do not seriously increase 
the resistance to flow. 
I would suggest that 1*4-in. pipe be 
used in place of the 1-in. that you men¬ 
tion. It has about 1% times the carry¬ 
ing capacity of 1-in. If the 1-in. pipe 
is used, select a pump with a small cyl¬ 
inder and couple in between the pump 
and the spring a vacuum chamber made 
from a 2 to 2%-ft. length of 2-in. to 
3-in. pipe fitted with a cap at the top 
end. This equalize** the flow in the suc¬ 
tion pipe, and tends to relieve the “rub¬ 
bery” action of the pump caused by the 
restricted flow in the suction pipe line. 
Spring in Cistern 
What can be done with a cistern 
which has a spring in the bottom of it? 
The water comes in eo fast that it cannot 
be cemented. The bottom is all cemented 
solid except a hole about three inches in 
diameter. I tried to cement a pipe in the 
hole to carry the spring water out of the 
cistern, but the water bubbled up around 
the pipe with such force it washed the 
cement away as fast as I could put it 
there. Is there any way of fixing it so I 
can have soft water instead of hard wa¬ 
ter? It is a large cistern and could be 
fixed in any way, if we knew what to do, 
and still be large enough. It is fine to 
have the water in case of a dry time, but 
do not care to build another cistern in 
order to leave this one as it is. w. d. 
From your description it seems that 
you have a very valuable source of water, 
one perhaps worth more than the cistern, 
and one that should be preserved and 
utilized if possible. Gases of this kind 
are difficult to handle because of the 
water pressure carrying away the con¬ 
crete before it has had an opportunity to 
harden. Concrete will set in water if de¬ 
posited carefully and left undisturbed to 
avoid washing the cement out of the mix¬ 
ture. With this in mind, I would sug¬ 
gest a modification of the plan that you 
have already tried. 
Secure a short length of 2-in. pipe, or 
a size large enough to carry the water 
easily. This should be only long enough 
to reach just above the surface of the 
floor when placed in the hole. Fit one 
end with a floor flange and the other with 
a coupling, either 2-in. or reduced to a 
size sufficient to carry the water. Place 
this in the hole with the flange down and 
quickly place around it a rich mixture of 
cement mortar. Protect this to prevent 
its being washed away by the water bub¬ 
bling from the end of the pipe, and let it 
thoroughly harden. Letting the water 
escape in this way will prevent the pres¬ 
sure that forced the mortar out. After 
it has hardened a length of pipe can be 
screwed into the coupling from above and 
the water conducted out of the cistern if 
the spring has pressure enough. 
Another method that suggests itself is 
to drill four holes in the bottom of the 
cistern surrounding the opening through 
which the spring bubbles. Lead bolts into 
these holes and clamp a piece of oak 
plank down upon a gasket by means of 
the bolts. A hole of the proper size bored 
through the plank will permit the at¬ 
tachment of a pipe for carrying the water 
away. 
Circular Saw With Electric 
Power 
I desire information relative to a cut¬ 
off circular saw. I have a 32-volt *4 h.p. 
motor, 1,750 r.p.m. Will you advise how 
large a saw this motor will run? I wish 
to use it on small stuff about the farm. 
In giving size of saw will you state size 
of pulleys needed on motor and saw? 
Caldwell, N. J. s. s. K. 
The actual «ize of the saw to be run 
by a light power does not matter so much 
as the condition of the saw and bearings, 
the gauge or thickness of the saw, and 
the rate at which the material is fed 
against it. A light power of this kind re¬ 
quires a thin saw and one kept in the 
best of condition. Under average condi¬ 
tions a 6-in. t'o 8-in. circular could be 
driven. The rim speed of a circular 
should be approximately 10,000 ft. per 
minute. To secure this speed at the cut¬ 
ting edge an 8-in. saw would have to 
make about 5,102 revolutions per minute, 
and as the motor rums at 1,750 r.p.m,, the 
speed ratio would have to be about 3 to 
1, requiring a 2-in. pulley on the saw 
mandrel and a 6-in. pulley on the motor 
or pulleys, with diameters in this ratio. 
Such a saw could be used in cutting off 
boards or ripping lumber, but would not 
be very useful in cutting up poles for 
wood, and I judge from your letter that 
this is the use that you wish to put it to. 
For such work a larger saw and heavier 
power is needed. I also gather from your 
letter that you are planning to use cur¬ 
rent from a storage battery to drive this 
saw outfit. Storage battery current will 
make a very expensive power for wood 
sawing, and I would 'suggest that the 
saw be belted to the lighting engine di¬ 
rect (if no other engine is available), 
rather than use the current from the bat¬ 
tery. 
Tiling in Spring 
I have a mountain well or spring, and 
was thinking of putting a clay sewer 
pipe into it, 3 ft. in diameber by 3 ft. 
high, to protect the sides of it and-con¬ 
verge the water in the well in one basin 
or well, or put in a large oak cask or 
liquor puncheon. Would the first or last 
contaminate the water? Also, would the 
casks decay, or what would I use, not 
cement or plaster? j. m. 
The suggestion that you make of using 
clay tile as a curbing for your spring is 
an excellent one. It makes a very satis¬ 
factory lining. It should be fitted with 
a screened overflow and cover so that 
there is no possible chance for insects, 
frogs or mice getting into the water, and 
a few inches of gravel or coarse sand 
makes a good bottom. Many springs are 
lined with a cask in the way that you 
mention. There is little trouble from the 
wood rotting, as it is saturated with wa¬ 
ter. Wood in this condition will last in¬ 
definitely, but is not so easily kept clean 
as the tile lining would be. 
Keep Temper 
and Fuel Ditl Down / 
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A Wise Old Trapper 
In the state of Ohio there lived a bunch of 
boys who had this trapping business down to 
a science. They each sent for separate price 
lists every year and then sent all their furs 
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125 West 27th Street New York 
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