The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
1357 
The Home Dressmaker 
The Changing Season.— Long sleeves 
are quite an innovation, after the bare 
arms of the past season; we never re 
alized before how many huge and deeply 
pitted vaccination marks are worn. 
Many of the long sleeves are very close 
fitting, but they are also seen slightly 
flared, with fancy cuffs, gathered into 
close bands, or with a balloon extension 
below the elbow. This last is a very 
convenient style for one who must make 
a new dress out of an old one. for a 
plain dark dress may be trimmed w r ith 
plaid silk in harmonizing color, and thus 
brought up to date. A plain one-piece 
dress of dark cloth may have a narrow 
panel of plaid silk, cut on the bias, all 
the way down the front, and full sleeve 
extensions of the plaid starting just be¬ 
low the elbow, and gathered at the wrist 
in a narrow band. Such a dress is more 
often made as straight as a cassock, and 
without a belt. It would be high in the 
neck, with a round collar of the plaid, 
though to most wearers a white collar 
is more becoming. Looking at the dresses 
in the New York shops, we note, under 
all sorts of modifications, two leading 
styles. One is the straight plain un¬ 
belted frock, usually with a panel or row 
of buttons all the way down the front; 
the other is a dress equally straight and 
narrow, but with some sort of side trim- 
when needed, as the dress is complete 
without it. The hat worn is an odd little 
French beret of black velvet. 
Blue Velveteen. —The next figure is 
a child wearing one of the plain velveteen 
dresses now shown in a great variety of 
colors. This was a rich sapphire blue, 
and was trimmed with a panel and bind¬ 
ings of figured silk, blue, brown and gold. 
The two scallops at the top were fast¬ 
ened with round gold and bronze buttons. 
The arrangement of the panel front gives 
a dressy look' to a very plain frock. This 
same style would be very attractive for 
a woolen dress of solid color, with panel 
and bindings of plaid, and it is also a 
good suggestion for plain and figured 
cotton goods. The child holds a plaid 
scarf, which one must have nowadays; 
a scarf of Scotch vicuna, in a plaid or 
stripe, is the finishing touch to the Fall 
costume. 
The Popular Buttoned Dress.— 
Some of the very popular new dresses, 
like Old Grimes’s coat, are “all buttoned 
down before,” and the dress figured at the 
extreme right is brick red charineen, with 
trimmings of dark green kid. This dress 
is like a long straight frock coat or cas¬ 
sock, with a row of ball buttons of the 
same color all the way down to the hem. 
The mannish notched collar has a nar¬ 
A Group of Smart hut Simple Autumn Fashions 
ming or tunic effect that gives a flare at 
the knees. Something of this sort was 
in vogue a few years ago under the name 
of minaret tunic, but the new flar- does 
not start at the waist; indeed the waist 
line is still quite variable and uncertain. 
A Tunic Dress. —In the picture, the 
dress at the left shows the new unbelted 
tunic, with an unusual collar. This was 
fawn-colored cloth with a woven check ; 
the plain straight tunic came just below 
the knees, over a very narrow short 
skirt. The long tight sleeves were set in 
at the shoulder raglan style, and were fin¬ 
ished with a narrow, slightly flared cuff 
of black satin, set in under the edge. A 
narrow band of the black satin finished 
the edge of the tunic, and the tops of the 
two small pockets. At the neck was a 
high folded cravat of black satin, fin¬ 
ished with a tie, which concealed the 
small opening with its invisible fasten¬ 
ings. The small high-crowned hat of 
fawn satin had a black and fawn fancy 
feather at one side. This dress was cer¬ 
tainly simple but extremely stylish. 
Roman Stripes. —The girl next in line 
wears a dress of Roman-striped flannel. 
The ground color was fawn, with broad 
mingled stripes of green, red and yellow. 
The stripes were quite wide apart, and 
this was utilized to give a very attractive 
effect in the making. In both front and 
back a center panel was formed by fold¬ 
ing under the stripe on each side of it 
in a pleat which, in the skirt, flared open 
and showed the colored stripe; another 
stripe showed on the plain nart of the 
dress on either side. The flaring collar, 
which stood up at the back, was edged 
with the stripe. The short opening in 
front was fastened with red ball buttons 
and loops, and a broad crush belt of red 
kid finished the dress. The hat was dark 
red velours with a narrow fawn-colored 
brim and two red pompons at the edge. 
We should prefer this dress with long 
sleeves for Winter wear, but it is very 
pretty and practical, as the flannel can 
be washed. 
A Sleeveless Coat. —The little girl in 
the center shows a sleeveless coat, which 
is removable, worn with a skirt to match. 
This was green and fawn wool plaid 
with a kilted skirt. The waist was a 
plain blouse of fawn-colored ohaillie, 
the neck square in front, with rolled 
standing collar which showed above 
the coat, and cuffs of the plaid. These 
sleeves would be desirable made full 
length, and gathered into a plaid cuff. 
The sleeveless coat was perfectly plain 
and open in front. This would be" a very 
useful little school dress; the coat could 
be removed in a warm place, and added 
row band of the green kid, and there is 
similar trimming put on like a pointed 
cuff, and on the pockets at either side. 
The greatest innovation shown in this 
dress was the broad buckled belt of soft 
dark green kid at the natural waist line. 
We see these belts quite frequently worn 
now, and extremists draw them in tightly, 
rather high, or at about the waist line 
existing before the “straight front” came 
in vogue. It now looks odd to us, but 
is undoubtedly the coming line. We see 
some wearers with these belts drawn very 
light, giving a pinched-in waist that has 
not been seen for a number of years. Of 
course the present style of girdle corset 
does not lend itself well to the tight belt. 
Notes and Novelties. —There is a 
decided change in women’s sweaters. 
Some heavy ones have returned to the 
masculine turtle neck, while others have 
the “T” neck line, which may be likened 
to the old-style woolen underwear with a 
round neck and straight opening a little 
to the side of the front, which only ex¬ 
tends for a short space, and is fastened 
with buttons. The sweater is straight 
and plain, the sleeves purled at the wrist. 
Some of these sweaters, priced $10, are 
offered as Australian wool, and are ac¬ 
companied by mufflers of Scotch vicuna. 
It is not merely the idea that these 
Scotch scarfs are imported that gives 
them interest; apparently our manufac¬ 
turers are not making just the same 
thing. 
One of the new gowns with buttons all 
down the front was seen in violet faille, 
trimmed with gilt buttons, gilt kid bands, 
and a wide suede belt stitched in gilt. 
Violet and purple, in a variety of shades 
and materials, are figured extensively this 
Fall. 
The little pockets shown in waist or 
skirt of so many new dresses call for a 
fancy handkerchief which, tucked in the 
pocket, forms a part of the trimming. 
These handkerchiefs are of crepe Georg¬ 
ette, black or colored, printed in some 
contrasting design. 
A large artificial carnation, pinned on 
the shoulder, is the finishing touch to the 
Fall dress. Either black or shaded col¬ 
ors are the smartest. Some we noted in 
a famous Fifth Avenue shop were $1.75 
and $2.75 each. 
One of the newest purses is envelope 
shape, soft morocco lined with bright- 
colored leather. It is expensive, but very 
smart. 
The dark green known as Cossack is 
very popular this Fall, and is seen in 
many materials. It seems likely to be 
used as much as the ever-popular blue. 
Lei 
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From The RURAL NEW-YORKER 
333 W. 30th St., N. Y. 
