Sftw RURAL NEW.YORKER 
1433 
Keeping Geraniums in 
Cellar 
I keep my geraniums over Winter by 
hanging them in the cellar. Lift them 
from the ground carefully, hang to a 
nail in a beam overhead, and that’s all 
there is to it. I put a dozen or so on 
one string. My cellar is not heated, and 
is not particularly dry, but they keep all 
right. They hang near a window', and in 
the Spring leaves begin to come out quite 
early. When set out they soon bloom, 
and keep it up till put in the cellar again. 
Woonsocket, R. I. mbs. h. m. 
Culture of Rosemary 
We wish very much to grow some rose¬ 
mary. Can you tell us anything about 
the plant, and how it is grown? a. b. c. 
Pawding, N. Y. 
Rosemary, botanically Rosmarinus offi¬ 
cinalis, is a half-hardy evergreen, grow¬ 
ing 2 ft. or more tall. It bears pale blue 
flowers, in leafy clusters, and small 
leaves, whitish underneath. All parts of 
the plant are pleasantly fragrant. It is 
easily grown from seed, and does its best 
in rather poor light soil, preferably limy. 
It is also increaeed by division of the 
plant. It is not perfectly hardy in our 
latitude, and needs protection in Winter, 
but in a sheltered place, with a good 
mulch, it will survive and do well. 
Care of Tulips 
Are tulip bulbs left in the ground after 
they have bloomed? If not how are they 
cared for? mrs. j. w. a. 
Tulip bulbs may be dug after flower¬ 
ing, or they may be left in the ground 
for about three seasons without lifting, 
according to convenience. They are 
usually dug after the foliage has ripened 
so that the ground may be used for 
Summer bedding plants, but in herb¬ 
aceous borders where other plants come 
into flower later, it is usually custom¬ 
ary to leave them in the ground. When 
it is intended to dig them, they should 
be allowed to remain until the foliage 
has yellowed and withered so as to ripen 
the bulbs, which are then dried in the 
shade, and stored in a cool dry place un¬ 
til planting time. The bulbs ;should 
not be dug while the leaves are still 
green, and if it is necessary, for conven¬ 
ience in planting, to lift them earlier, 
they should be carefully dug, _ and then 
reset in some odd corner, until the fol¬ 
iage has ripened. When they are left 
in one place without taking up each sea¬ 
son, it is well to lift them every third 
season, after the foliage is ripe, storing 
for the Summer, and dividing and reset¬ 
ting in the Fall like new bulbs. 
Keeping Elephant’s Ears 
and Canna Roots 
What is the best method of storing ele¬ 
phant’s ear tubers and Canna roots 
through the Winter? I have an excep¬ 
tionally nice bunch of Cannas this Sum¬ 
mer and would like to save these for an¬ 
other year. We had three bunches last 
year and we cut the tops off just before 
danger of frost and put them in tubs in 
good dirt and kept them in the sitting 
room all Winter. These Cannas came up 
in the tubs along about the holidays and 
were a nice size to set out when time to 
set out this Spring. This was a very good 
method where one has just a few, but it 
would be out of the question to keep the 
larger number as we did the others last 
Winter. Why is it that there is no seed 
on these Cannas? There was none on 
them last season, and from indications 
there will be none again this year. The 
seed pod is there, but for some reason the 
seed fails to mature. Why is it I have 
flowers of a distinctly different color from 
the parent plants of last year? We have 
' some flowers of a real bright yellow, 
while we had nothing of this kind last 
season, and they are all from the same 
roots. C. V. B. 
McArthur, O. 
The tubers of the plant commonly 
called elephant’s ear or Caladium (Colo- 
casia of botanists), should be kept in a 
dry place, free from frost. Florists often 
. store th • under a greenhouse bench. 
The same conditions are desirable for 
Cannas. Both may be stored on shelves, 
in a cellar where potatoes will keep. It 
is desirable to throw a thin covering of 
dry soil over the Canna roots while in 
storage. The choice modern varieties are 
not as easily kept over Winter as the old- 
fashioned sorts ,but well-cured roots from 
strong plants are usually kept without 
difficulty. 
Lack of pollen may prevent formation 
of Canna seed. It is wise to pick the 
flowers as soon as they wilt, and thus 
prevent the formation of seed pods; this 
will induce more flowers, and will also 
give a tidier appearance to the plant. 
We cann t give an opinion as to the 
reason for another variety to show, but 
it may be that a small weak tuber of 
this other sort was included in the 
clump, and did not reach flowering 
strength the previous season. Many fine 
modern Cannas are largely derived from 
C. flaceida. a clear yellow variety, and 
there is also even a possibility of the 
color reappearing in a type that was not 
fixed, but there is more likelihood that 
this was a distinct tuber, accidentally 
included, that did not flower last year. 
Carboleine 
A miscible oil—has 
been in use longer 
than any oil spray on 
the market, except 
Scalecide, and kills 
scale as well as Scale¬ 
cide even at a weaker 
dilution-and known 
to be safe. While it 
will not do all that 
Scalecide will do, 
neither will any 
other dormantspray. 
Price: $20 per 50- 
gallon barrel includ¬ 
ing container, f.o.b. 
Hackensack, N. J. 
Oil Emulsions 
While oil emulsions 
have not yet proven 
their value and safe¬ 
ty, and we do not 
recommend them, 
we will supply them 
to you of a quality 
and stability not ob¬ 
tainable elsewhere. 
If you insist on using 
oil emulsions, let us 
quote you prices 
$ 1 L 50 for Average Orchard 
$11.50 worth of Scalecide will 
spray an average orchard of 75 
to 100 twenty-year old apple 
trees until they drip—or as 
many trees as one 50-gallon 
barrel of lime-sulfur applied 
with equal thoroughness. Lime- 
sulfur is considered cheap—but 
it is now recognized that it does 
not do the work. Scalecide costs 
the same or even less—and not 
only does the work but is guar¬ 
anteed to make a better orchard, 
Scalecide is not an oil emulsion 
but a miscible oil that mixes 
instantly with cold water and 
stays mixed without agitation. 
Its continuous use for the past 
twenty years throughout the 
Send today for new booklet, * 
B. G. PRATT CO. Department 16 
fruit-growing world has proven 
that it will not do injury such 
as has been so often attributed 
to oil emulsions and improper¬ 
ly made miscible oils. 
On every tree, shrub and vine 
that sheds its leaves in winter— 
use Scalecide as your dormant 
spray. Then you will know 
that you have done all that 
can be done at that particular 
time by any dormant spray or 
combination of sprays. If your 
dealer doesn’t carry Scalecide, 
show him this advertisement 
—or order direct from us. 
Send $11.50 plus $2. for each 
15-gallon drum. The $2 will be 
refunded upon return of drum. 
Economy of Scalecide ” — it*s free. 
50 Church St. NEW YORK, N. Y. 
$11.50 Delivered East of the Mississippi River—Drum $2 Extra Returnable . 
Fall spraying with Scalecide controls 
psylla and peach leaf curl. Spring ap¬ 
plication controls aphis, pear thrips, 
leaf miner, case bearer and leaf rol¬ 
ler. Either fall or spring spraying with 
Scalecide controls scale, bud moth, 
European red mite, fungus or blight 
cankers from which are spread fire 
blight, collar rot and root rot. And 
in addition, year after year use of 
Scalecide invigorates the trees. 
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B.G. PRATT/ 
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