1452 
The RURAL. NEW-YORKER 
November 22, 192* 
You get so much 
and pay so little! 
You’re happy in Hanes, because it’s so downright com¬ 
fortable all over, and in every single part. You can 
walk and reach and stoop and stretch, and Hanes will 
follow every little movement, without a bind or a bunch t 
Hanes shuts out icy blasts and blocks the sharp- 
fanged cold that would like to reach in and bite. Three 
weights meet the winter requirements of every climate. 
We especially recommend the Hanes Heavy Weight 
for all practical purposes. 
In no other underwear can you get so much and pay 
so little. Millions of men and boys who are happy in 
Hanes will tell you it’s the best winter underwear in 
the world for the money—and that’s that I 
Hanes Underwear is guaranteed absolutely—every 
thread, stitch and button, or your money back. Go to 
the nearest Hanes dealer and compare this big-value 
underwear detail by detail with the 5 Famous Points. 
That’s the answer! Union suits, also shirts-and-drawers. 
Boys prefer Hanes, too, because it’s made of the 
same materials and with the same care. Union suits 
only. Two weights—heavy and extra heavy. Sizes 2 
to 16 years. 2 to 4 year sizes with drop seats. Also 
knee length and short sleeves. 
P. H. HANES KNITTING GO. 
Winston-Salem, N. C. 
MiP AmvmO s wmo flam , fa M- car a&Miv Ihum/ Iultb < 
1 HaNES Collar¬ 
ettes are cut to 
size. A 40 suit has 
a 40 collarette. 
Won’t roll or 
pucker. Protect the 
chest front cold 
draughts, and let 
the top-shirt lie 
smooth. 
2 Hanes Cuffs 
won’t pull off. 
They snug the 
wrist. Reinforced 
on the end to pre¬ 
vent raveling and 
gaping. Sleeves are 
exact length—not 
uneven. 
3 Hanes Elastic 
Shoulders give 
with every move¬ 
ment, because 
they’re made with 
a service-doubling 
lap seam. Comfort¬ 
able. Strong. 
4 Hanes Closed 
Crotch really 
stays closed. 
Double gusset in 
thigh another com¬ 
fort feature. Crotch 
can’t bind, for 
Hanes is fitted 
by trunk measure. 
5 Hanes Elastic 
Ankles never 
bunch over the 
shoe-tops. No 
ugly pucker show¬ 
ing under the socks. 
One leg is exactly 
the same length as 
the other. They’re 
matesI 
Farm Mechanics 
Conducted by Robert H. Smith, of the Canton Agricultural School 
Canton, New York 
Water System From Well 
What is the best method of getting run¬ 
ning water into the kitchen and for bath 
from a dug well 47 ft. deep, 25 ft. 6 in. 
to top of water? Well is 10 ft. from 
house cellar, which is 6 ft. 6 in. deep. 
There is a 2 in. pipe on existing pump 
and a 15-in. tile casing well. A. A. c. 
The best method of getting water into 
your house depends upon so many factors, 
and is so largely a matter of individual 
preference, that I am unable to give you 
any definite answer. The best that I 
can do is to tell you briefly of the meth¬ 
ods at your disposal, letting you choose 
for yourself. 
I am assuming that water is wanted 
for household purposes only, and that 
you wish the plant located in your cellar 
or basement. If this is the case you 
have at least two general methods of 
obtaining water. An electric, motor or 
engine can be used in connection with a 
small air compressor and air storage 
tank, the compressed air operating a 
pump in the well whenever a faucet is 
opened. This method stores air only, 
fresh water coming directly from the 
well as soon as the faucet has run suffi¬ 
ciently long to empty the service pipe. 
Where electric current is available this 
system may be made completely automa¬ 
tic by having the air compressor run by 
a small motor which is started and 
stopped by a pressure operated switch 
as the air pressure is raised and lowered 
in the air tank. 
Another automatic system has a small 
storage tank into which the water is 
pumped, compressing the air above it. 
The pressure so formed forces water to 
the faucets and controls the switch, start¬ 
ing and stopping the operating motor. 
The system just briefly described would 
use a shallow well pump placed in the 
cellar. This would operate successfully 
in your well if the pipe leading to the 
well were run through at the level of the 
cellar bottom, and the water level in the 
well is comparatively constant so that 
it does not pump down too much in use. 
A higher water level would do no harm, 
but one much below this would be too 
low for a suction pump. 
Siphon From Well 
I have a drilled well 75 ft. deep, 
situated on a sloping hill. The water 
rises within 19 ft. from the top at the 
rate of six gallons per minute. Within 
a distance of 100 ft. from the well the 
land slopes gradually. Beyond that dis¬ 
tance there is a sharp slope at great 
length. Could I siphon water at a fall 
of 40 ft.? IIow could this be done? 
IIow long would the pipes have to be to 
accomplish the purpose? m. a. 
If your measurements are as indicated 
it will be possible for you to use a siphon 
to secure water at a point down the 
slope from the well. Lay your pipe with 
carefully-made joints, preventing air 
leaks, and with a long easy bend at the 
top, lessening the chance of an air bub¬ 
ble forming at this point. Attach a suc¬ 
tion pump to the lower end and draw 
the pipe full of water. It should then 
flow itself without further pumping. 
It is a good plan to attach the pump 
to the lower end of the line by means of 
a short tee, placing a valve between the 
pump and the siphon. All water holds 
a certain amount of air in solution. At 
the top curve of a siphon the pressure is 
light, and this air is slowly given off, 
gradually forming a bubble at this point, 
which checks the flow of the siphon. If 
the pump is left attached, the valve sep¬ 
arating it from the siphon can be opened 
and the handle given a few quick strokes, 
which will start the siphon operating 
again when it is seen that the flow is 
gradually lessening. 
The operation of the siphon is due 
to a condition of unbalance created by 
two columns of water of unequal length. 
The water in the leg of the siphon hav¬ 
ing the greater vertical length has the 
greater weight or pressure and conse¬ 
quently the greater tendency to flow. A 
siphon will operate whenever one end is 
lower than the other and the top of the 
siphon is not farther than suction dis¬ 
tance, (in practice 20 to 25 ft.) above 
the surface of the water on the intake 
side. In your case it will only be neces¬ 
sary to carry the pipe down the slope 
sufficiently far to insure that the dis¬ 
charge end is somewhat below the intake 
end, insuring a good flow of water. 
Stone or Cement Wall for 
Barn 
Which would be the better wall to build 
for a barn, one of stone or concrete? 
Would have to buy stone and draw three 
miles; also buy and draw gravel about 
same distance. How many cords of stone 
would it take, wall to be 56 ft. long, 32 
ft. wide, 4 ft. high on one side, 2 ft. on 
the other? The ends on an average 3 ft. 
high. How many loads of gravel and how 
much cement would it take? Which 
would be the cheapest and better? e. b. 
Concrete is quite generally used for this 
purpose at the present time. It makes a 
very satisfactory foundataion wall, and 
does not require the high-priced skilled 
labor necessary for a masonry wall. 
The wall as planned by you will con¬ 
tain about 516 cu. ft. if built 1 ft. thick 
of a 1:2*4‘5 mixture; approximately 474 
cu. ft. (about 12 loads) of gravel from 
which the sand has been removed by run¬ 
ning it over a *4-in. mesh screen, and 
about six loads of clean sand, ranging 
from *4 in. in size of particles down. 
This can be obtained by screening the 
gravel. Gravel should always be screened 
and re-combined in the proper propor¬ 
tions, as bank-run gravel ordinarily car¬ 
ries too much sand and is not uniform in 
pebble content. 
You seem to be planning a wall resting 
on top of the ground. Better construc¬ 
tion is possible if the foundation is placed 
in a trench extending below the frost line. 
The portion below ground can be made 
largely of field stone, enough mortar being 
used to fill the spaces between. If the 
wall must be made 4 ft. high above 
ground on one side it seems that it 
would be better to make it enough higher 
to permit utilization of the space beneath 
to advantage. 
Preventing Oil Leakage 
I am told that there is a way of drill¬ 
ing holes at a certain angle in the piston 
rings of a tractor so as to prevent oil 
leaking and reaching the spark plugs. 
Can you give me information about the 
process? Is there a farm bulletin pub¬ 
lished on tractor repairs? c. w. P. 
Oil pumping is generally the result of 
wear, and usually the best remedy is 
secured by having the block rebored and 
oversize piston and rings fitted. Some¬ 
times, however, a series of small holes 
are drilled at an angle of about 45 de¬ 
grees through the lower side of the bot¬ 
tom ring groove. On the upstroke the 
oil that is wiped off by the lower ring is 
supposed to escape to the crank case 
through these holes instead of being car¬ 
ried to the combustion chamber where it 
may cause fouling of the spark plugs. 
Holes drilled through the rings them¬ 
selves, would weaken or break them, and 
allow the compression to escape by them. 
There are several farmers’ bulletins 
on the farm tractor and gas engine cov¬ 
ering cost of operation, hitches and care. 
Bulletin 78 of the Department of Agri¬ 
culture of the Province of Quebec, Can., 
is an excellent bulletin on the “Farm 
Gas Engine” and can be obtained from 
McDonald College, Quenec. In addition 
the various tractor companies put out 
some very instructive trade literature. 
Oil-burning Engine With¬ 
out Electrical Ignition 
Can you give me any information about 
a kerosene or oil-fuel stationary engine 
which has no carburetor, magneto or elec¬ 
trical ignition, fuel being fired by heat of 
compression? Has this type of engine 
proved practical and will it stand up as 
well as the usual type of kerosene en¬ 
gine using electrical ignition? I. f. S. 
This engine, as you say fires the oil 
used as fuel by the heat of compression 
alone, compression being carried to a 
high point. The Diesel engine used so 
successfully in marine practice ignites 
its fuel in the same way. Several years 
ago out- of these engines was loaned us 
for trial and in the few tests that were 
made on it ran very well developing 
rated hcise power and at a fairly low 
rate of fuel consumption. At the same 
time the engine was with us I sent out 
a questionnaire to a number of men using 
them, and on the whole they 'seemed to 
be giving satisfaction, one man, how¬ 
ever, saying that they were built too 
light. It is probable that they would re¬ 
quire a little more attention in service 
to keep the valves and rings in condition 
to insure perfect compression necessary 
for ignition. If care is given to this, 
however, I can see no reason why the 
engine should not do good work. 
Concrete Floor in Cellar 
I am planning to put a concrete floor 
in the cellar of my house. I planned to 
dig out about 6 in. of dirt and replace 
with 3 in. of cinders and 3 in. of con¬ 
crete. A neighbor advises me not to put 
any cinders in, as the cellar will not be 
as cool as it would be if I lay the cement 
directly upon the earth. It is not a wet 
cellar, though during the Spring, or long 
rainy period, it is rather soft in certain 
parts of the floor. There is a good 
chance for drainage. The soil is clay 
loam. R. A. K. 
If the floor is well drained, either nat¬ 
urally or artificially, the concrete may be 
laid directly upon the earth, but I should 
much prefer a layer of field stones or 
cinders beneath the concrete to aid in 
carrying off water that might otherwise 
seep through. I do not see how a layer 
of cinders could materially affect the tem¬ 
perature of the cellar, m. b. d. 
