26 
To Solo Paulo de Loanda. 
bought: there is only one good well sunk in the 
upper town, about 1840, when the Conde de 
Bomfim was Minister of Marine and the Colonies, 
—it is a preserve for government officials. Living 
in the native style is cheap; but cooks are hardly 
procurable, and a decent table is more expensive 
than in an English country town. A single store 
(M. Schutz) supplies “ Europe ” articles, of course 
at fancy prices, and here a travelling outfit may be 
bought. It has been remarked that Loanda has 
no shop that sells “ food for the mind ; ” this is ap¬ 
plicable, not only to all East and West Africa, but 
to places far more progressive. A kind of cafe- 
billard supplies a lounge and tepid beer. The at¬ 
tendants in Portuguese houses are slaves ; the few 
English prefer Cabindas, a rude form of the rude 
Kru-boy, and the lowest pay of the lowest labourer 
is 5 d. per diem. 
The “ Canada Nova,” a fine old paved “ ramp”— 
to speak Gibraltar-English—connects Basse Ville 
and Hauteville. The latter was once a scatter of 
huge if not magnificent buildings, now in ruins; 
we shall pass through it en route to Calumbo. 
Here are the remains of the three chief convents, 
the Jesuit, the Carmelite, and the Third Order of 
St. Francis. The citadel de Sao Miguel, lately 
blown up, has been restored ; the extensive works 
of dressed freestone, carefully whitewashed, stand 
out conspicuously from the dark bush dotting the 
