34 
A Trip to Calumbo. 
to join his party, which started early on August 
19. All rode the tipoia, a mere maca or ham¬ 
mock sadly heating to the back, but handier than 
the manchila: the bearers wore loose waistbelts, 
with a dozen small sheep’s bells on the crupper, in¬ 
tended to proclaim our importance, and supposed 
to frighten away wild beasts. These gentry often 
require the stimulus of “ ndokwe ” (go on), but 
seldom the sedative of “ malemba ” (gently) or 
“ quinga ” (stop). The “ boi-cavallo,” the riding 
bull (not ox) of the interior, which costs about 
is never used in these fashionable localities. I 
failed to remark the line of trenches supposed to 
defend the land-side, but I did remark the “ mai- 
angas,” said to be indigo vats made by the Jesuits. 
After a hot depression we ascended a rough zigzag, 
and halting we enjoyed a charming view of St. 
Paul. The domed Morro concealing the squalid 
lower town was crowned with once lordly build¬ 
ings—cathedral, palace, treasury, and fort; the 
colours of the ground-swell were red and white, 
with here and there a dot of green ; and the blue 
sea rose in its loveliness beyond the hill horizon. 
For a whole league we were in the region of 
“ arimos,” or outside farms, where villages, villas, 
and plantations, threaded by hot and sandy lanes 
with hedges of green euphorbia, showed the former 
prosperity of the country. Beyond it the land 
forms, as in Yoruba, lines of crescents bulging west 
