January i, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
279 
between night and day temperatures. With the 
cessation of syringing overhead there will be the 
more need to attend closely to the damping down of 
the paths and plant shelves, especially with increased 
fire heat. There will be very little need to open the 
top lights for a while yet, as the sun has very little 
power even when the day is bright, but the bottom 
ventilators should be opened on all possible occa¬ 
sions. Fresh air will thus t e admitted without a 
cold draught, since the air entering through the 
bottom ventilators becomes warmed in its passage 
over the pipes. 
Advantage should be taken of the present quiet 
season to give the house a thorough cleaning out 
with a view to getting rid of insect pests as far as is 
humanly possible. All the'woodwork, wires, and 
glass should be washed, the climbers on the roof 
pruned, cleaned, and returned to their places, and 
the foliage plants sponged carefully to remove both 
dirt and insects. The year will thus be started with 
a clean bill of health, and a moderate amount of 
labour only will be required to keep things straight 
afterwards. 
Bougainvilleas — Throughout the winter 
months the Bougainvilleas, whether grown in pots 
or planted out should be kept quite dry at the 
roots. Plants of B. glabra, which is the favourite 
species in' most gardens, may be pruned forthwith. 
In the case of young plants a few of the strongest 
growths should be selected as a foundation for the 
future tree, and the remainder spurred in closely. 
Weak, or straggling shoots should be cut clean out 
as they will only be in the way presently. In the 
case of the larger plants pruning will simply consist 
in spurring back the last year's growths, just in the 
same way as Vines. As Bougainvilleas are very 
subject to mealy bug, the present opportunity for 
getting rid of the pest should not be lost. The 
rough bark of the stem and larger branches afford a 
convenient harbourage for the bug. It will be 
advisable therefore to give these repeated washings 
with a fairly strong solution of Gishurst Compound. 
After this the branches may be painted over with 
the Glay and Gishurst mixture employed for the 
Vines. 
Planting Bougainvilleas. —Where it is desired 
to plant Bougainvilleas as cover for the roof the 
present is a favourable time. It is a somewhat 
curious fact that pot plants need a warm house to 
enable them to flower properly, whilst those that are 
planted out in borders will bloom freely enough in 
an intermediate house. This should not be lost 
sight of when making arrangements. When pre¬ 
paring a bed or border for Bougainvilleas the princi¬ 
pal point to be borne in mind is that there must be 
an efficient drainage. During the spring, summer, 
and early autumn months plenty of water is re¬ 
quired, and yet the plants detest anything like 
stagnant moisture hanging round their roots. On 
the other hand we have already noted that the 
plants must be kept dry during the winter. The 
bed itself should be of a gross depth of about 2 ft. 
Of this from 6 to 9 ins. at least should be drainage, 
which should communicate directly with the drain. 
Over the drainage place a layer of turves, with the 
grass side downwards. The soil may then follow. 
This should consist in staple of good loam—say 
about three parts of it to one of leaf soil, with plenty 
of coarse river sand. 
Allamandas. —Among the most easily grown and 
most handsome pillar or roof plants for the stove are 
the Allamanadas. They invariably succeed if pro¬ 
perly looked after, whether grown in pots or planted 
out. Perhaps their most noticeable good quality is 
that they are not liable to be attacked by any of the 
insect pests that prey upon our stove plants. Just 
now the plants are in the middle of their resting 
period, although a few leaves may remain upon 
them. No water need therefore be given them yet. 
An early opportunity of pruning them should be 
taken. In the majority of instances the plants are 
kept closely pruned back each year, and the young 
growths as far as possible strictly trained to wires. 
Under such circumstances the plants, with their 
naturally stiff growth, do not appear to the best 
advantage. A little more freedom may well be 
allowed, a fine effect being produced by permitting 
some of the branches to droop at their full length 
over the plants at the lower levels. The flowers, 
which are produced at the tips of the growths, are 
then brought more conspicuously in evidence instead 
of being crushed up against the glass, as they too 
often are. In pruning, after leaving some of the 
shoots at about two-thirds their length to extend the 
spread of the plant, cut the other growths hard back 
into the old wood. 
Top Dressing the Borders. — Owing to the 
naturally vigorous growth of Allamandas the size 
and depth of the borders have to be limited, other¬ 
wise the plants would grow too strongly and flower 
but shyly. 
A top dressing of good loam, with which may be 
mixed a few nodules of charcoal, may be given just 
before it is desired to start the plants into growth, 
but no manure of any kind should be given, for the 
reason stated above. 
Pot Allamandas. —Trained plants in pots are 
highly thought of in some establishments, and they 
are effective enough when well-grown and bloomed. 
Like the plants in beds these will have been kept 
nearly dry at the root for some weeks past. Some 
time before the middle of the month the plants may 
be pruned and potted. Use a compost of thiee 
parts of fibrous loam to one part of cow manure 
Mix with this a few pieces of charcoal, and plenty of 
coarse river sand. This is a fairly rich soil, but in 
the comparatively restricted root run in the pots the 
plants do not get a chance to grow too freely. In 
potting the soil must be made quite firm by means 
of the rammer. 
Cuttings of Allamandas will root very freely 
if given a brisk bottom heat of 70° or 8o° Fahr. 
Select from the prunings the tops of the shoots re¬ 
taining two or three nodes to each. Put these singly 
in small pots filled with peat and sand, press the 
soil very firmly round the base of the cutting, and 
plunge in a propagating frame, having a bottom 
heat, such as that mentioned above. The cuttiDgs 
will have made roots in from three to four weeks 
time, and will also have pushed out leaves at the 
apex. In another three or six weeks from the 
insertion of the cutting, if all has gone well, the 
small pots will be filled with roots, and a shift 
onwards will be necessary. 
Tree Ferns. —Although in their native habitats 
the Tree Ferns have a certain resting period, the 
conditions of life are so altered under glass that it 
would not be wise to follow nature too slavishly. 
The plants may require less water at the root than 
in the summer, but they must not be allowed to get 
dry. The roots, which are emitted from the stems, 
must likewise not be starved, otherwise they will 
perish, and a corresponding check will be sustained 
by the plant. A certain amount of rest, on the other 
hand, may be afforded by withholding all manurial 
stimulants. See that the fire-heat does not render 
that part of the house where the Ferns are situated 
too arid. The stages and walks must be damped 
thoroughly at least three times a day. 
Nymphaeas. —With these life is in the quiescent 
stage, and nothing should be done to excite them 
too soon. The water may now be drawn nearly off, 
and in another week or ten days may be removed 
altogether, so as to give an opportunity for the clean¬ 
ing out of the tank and the repotting of the Lilies. 
An annual clear out is advisable, not only for the 
sake of cleanliness, but in order to give new soil to 
the plants, and to admit of fresh arrangements being 
made. 
Pits and Frames. 
Chrysanthemums.— One of the most absorbing 
operations just now is the getting up of stock of 
Chrysanthemums for the next season. Upon the 
proper performance of this duty depends in a great 
measure the amount of success which is to be 
obtained presently. 
With the annual multiplication of varieties, 
between some of which, it is to be feared, there is 
very little differenc-, the task of selection and rejec¬ 
tion becomes more than ever important. The lists 
of varieties are even now almost interminable, and it 
would indeed be a large establishment that could 
afford the space for half of them The particular 
varieties that are to be grown for another year must 
depend entirely upon the needs of each several 
and individual establishment. The object for which 
the plants are destined is an important factor in the 
decision, and colour, too, has often to be seriously 
considered. Anyway, it is well to remember that a 
bad, or what amounts to the same thing, an unsuit¬ 
able variety takes up just as much space and attention 
as a good or suitable one. 
Selecting Cuttings. —Too much care cannot be 
exercised in this part of the business. The best 
cuttings are furnished from those cuttings thrown up 
directly from the root. These should have a clean 
stem of about 3 ins. in length. The shorter ones, 
which have to be grubbed up from the ground, are 
not so good, although far preferable to stem cuttings. 
Even the latter make good plants occasionally, such 
as in the case of Stanstead White and Mine. C. 
Audiguier, but generally speaking they are to be 
avoided, as they are apt to throw flower buds at an 
early stage of their life. 
Striking the Cuttings. — Experience bas 
proved beyond question that the cuttings struck in a 
cool temperature, that is between 40° and 45 0 Fahr., 
make better and more reliable plants than cuttings 
which are coddled at the outset of their career. The 
cuttings should be inserted singly in long thumb 
pots, which have had one crock placed over the 
bottom hole and have been filled with a compost of 
equal parts of loam, and leaf soil, with sand. A 
capital place for the cuttings may be furnished by 
placing on the stage of a cool greenhouse, and close 
to the glass, a number of handlights. Into these 
should be placed enough fine ashes to enable the 
pots to be plunged to the rims. Shade carefully 
from the sun, and keep the frame close for the 
greater part of the time till the cuttings are rooted, 
Air must be given cautiously at first, and if the 
cuttiDgs show any signs of flagging the lights must 
be replaced at once. Water carefully, and keep a 
close look out for damp. Under such conditions 
almost every cutting may be relied upon to root — 
A. S G. 
- +> -- 
(Slganinga ftnmffjt; JDuritt 
of Science. 
The undermentioned subjects were brought before 
the Scientific Committee of the Royal Horticultural 
Society on December 14th. 
Cypripedium, Monstrous. —With reference to the 
specimen sent to the last meeting by Mr. Veitch, 
Dr. Masters reports that the lip was wanting, but 
the dorsal and ventral sepals as well as the lateral 
petals were normal; both stamens were present, but 
only two carpels, standing in an antero-posterior 
position. 
Tuberous Growths on Vines. —Mr. S. T. 
Wright sent some gall-like structures taken from 
Vines in the large vinery at Chiswick. He observes 
that “ many of the old and young rods are similarly 
malformed at their base. It does not appear to 
affect the health and vigour of the rods. In all the 
malformations grubs or maggots are present; but 
neither moths nor weevils have been seen in the 
house.” Mr. Michael pronounced the grubs to be 
coleopterous, but they were not likely to have been 
the cause. Prof. Church undertook to examine 
them chemically. There was no apparent structure 
in them beyond a mass of cellular tissue with a 
corky exterior surface. 
Hellebores Diseased. —Some badly diseased 
plants were received from Mr. F. W. Burbidge, 
Botanic Gardens, Dublin. They were submitted to 
Kewfor examination. The report was as follows :— 
'• Phonia effusa, Desm., is the name of the fungus 
attacking the Hellebores. The diseased portions 
should be removed and burned, as at this season the 
fungus is producing myriads of spores, which live as 
saprophytes on humus in the soil for some time be¬ 
fore they are capable of acting as parasites. The 
Hellebore shoots of next year will be infected by 
these spores. The above alternation from a parasitic 
to a saprophytic mode of life enables the fungus 
possessing one form of fruit only, as in the present 
instance, to tide over the period during which its 
host plant is not actively growing. Spraying with a 
solution of potassium sulphide (i oz. to 3 gallons of 
water) when the leives first appear next season 
would to some extent prevent the chances of inocu¬ 
lation from floating spores.” 
Holly with Red and Yellow' Berries. —Mr. 
Ch. Turner, Slough, sent some sprays, on which he 
remarks, “ They are cut from a large tree which re¬ 
tains its berries for two years The berries are yel¬ 
low in the first year, but change to red in the second 
year.” As no seasonal break was distinguishable be¬ 
tween the group of yellow and that of the red berries 
below it on the same stem, some doubt was ex¬ 
pressed, and some further information desired. This 
Mr. Turner has kindly promised to furnish. 
