296 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 8 , 1898. 
IflNTS FOR ||mATEURS. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM CUTTINGS. 
The amateur who takes up the culture of the Chrys¬ 
anthemum in order to find something to occupy his 
spare time often discovers that he has got rather 
more to do than he bargained for at the start. 
Right through the year he finds that there is always 
something to do in connection with his favourites, 
and that unceasing care and vigilance must be 
exercised the whole season through. 
At this time of the year all Chrysanthemum 
growers, both big and little, amateur and pro¬ 
fessional, are concentrating all their energies upon 
the getting up of stock. For purposes of general 
culture we treat the Chrysanthemum as an annual, 
that is to say we rear the plants, flower them, and 
throw them away in the one year. It must not be 
supposed from this that the old plants could not be 
successfully grown on for another year, or for a 
number of years for that matter, for the reverse is 
the case, but experience has demonstrated that 
finer flowers are borne by the younger plants, and 
so, despite the increased amount of trouble, we pro¬ 
pagate every year. 
In the case of thoss who grow upon a large scale, 
or who enter extensively into the whirl of competi¬ 
tion at shows, an early start is made with the cut¬ 
tings, for the blooms are scarcely off the plants in 
November before a diligent search is made for the 
cuttings, more especially of varieties that are new, 
of the greatest service, or more than commonly shy 
in throwing up suitable cuttings. From November 
onward to the end of January is the busiest part of 
the year for seeing to the cuttings that are destined 
to produce plants to bear blooms of show size. 
Even after the end of January, and for fully another 
month or even six weeks, cuttings may still-be in¬ 
serted for yielding plants to furnish flowers for de¬ 
corative work. 
Of late years the practice of growing exhibition 
blooms in 6 in. or 7 in. pots has received a good deal 
of attention. It has been demonstrated beyond 
question that it is possible to grow plants in the e 
pots that shall throw first-class blooms. Such 
plants are of the greatest service for the formation 
of groups of Chrysanthemums which are each year 
becoming a more noteworthy feature at the shows. 
The blooms these plants carry are not always large 
enough to take their place upon the show board by 
themselves, but they come in very handy where two 
or three fair-sized blooms are required for complet¬ 
ing a stand. In some cases, on the other hand, the 
flowers are fully able to hold their own with regard 
to size in competition with the others borne by 
plants grown in the larger pots. The month of 
March is the time for inserting cuttings to give this 
kind of material. By that time there will be plenty 
of cuttings, and only the least need be taken. 
It will be seen at once that by this method the 
rooting of cuttings in the worst months of the year, 
viz , November, December, January, and February, 
is obviated, and this is a matter of considerable im¬ 
portance to the amateur who has to feel his way 
along, as it were. 
For ordinary purposes the present is a capital 
time to take the cuttings, for each day now will bring 
a slight increase in the light, whereas in November 
we had to look forward to a daily decrease in that 
valuable commodity. Cuttings inserted now, more¬ 
over, have a fairly long season of growth in front of 
them—quite long enough with skilled treatment to 
produce first-class flowers. 
Striking the Cuttings. — During the last few 
years a great revolution has taken place in the 
actual treatment of the cuttings. Formerly it was 
not an uncommon thing to see them coddled and 
placed in warm houses or hot beds. The result was, 
as might have been expected, drawn, spindly looking 
plants, with thin, yellow, and weakly foliage. But 
this was not the worst, for the check consequent on 
potting, and the shift into cooler quarters was so 
severe that it was a long time before the plants 
pulled themselves together and made real progress. 
All this delay was Daturally a loss of valuable time, 
that brought its own penalty at flowering time. 
Nowadays nobody, unless it be the veriest tyro, 
thinks of subjecting the plants to heat. “ Keep the 
cuttings cool " is the advice that would be given to 
the enquirer by any and every successful grower, 
and sound advice it is, based upon that surest of 
foundations—practical experience. It will thus be 
perceived that no expensive glass structures are 
necessary to root Chrysanthemum cuttings, and, in 
fact, no further convenience than the ordinary 
amateur can well command. There are many 
winters, indeed, in which a cold frame would afford 
all the shelter needed, but we cannot depend upon 
this, and, therefore, some structure is needed from 
which the frost can be excluded at will. The great 
drawback to the welfare of the cuttings when they 
are placed in a cold frame with no other protection 
than mats is not so much the degree of cold but the 
exclusion of of the light, which may result for a week 
two or together when frost holds day and night in 
such a way that it is impossible to remove the cover¬ 
ings from the frame. 
Clear a place on the greenhouse stage where there 
is plenty of light, and stand on it a small hand-light. 
In this put a layer of about 4 in. of clean ashes. 
This will serve to plunge the little pots in. Cocoa- 
nut fibre refuse may be used if desired, but ashes are 
rather cleaner and better. 
Selecting the Cuttings—There is a good deal 
more art in this than many people fancy. There is 
a great tendency to go for fat, succulent shoots, but 
these rarely do so well as the more wiry ones, having, 
among other bad qualities, a greater tendency to 
damp off. First of all do not take the cuttings, un¬ 
less it is absolutely unavoidable, from the plants 
which have been very highly fed. This practice 
carried on over a series of years has a very prejudicial 
effect upon the stamina of the plants. If pos ible a 
few plants should be grown specially each year for 
the production of stock. No stimulants of any kind 
should be given them, and [they will then produce 
quantities of sturdy, wiry shoots. The best cuttings 
are furnished by the suckers thrown up from the roots. 
Some growers are fond of taking these off with a 
hard base and a few roots attached, but although 
these are almost certain to root they do not seem to 
make so much headway as others which have been 
cut off above the surface of the soil. A good cutting 
should be from 2\ in. to 3 in. in length. Steer clear 
of “ stem ” cuttings, i.e , shoots that are thrown 
directly out from the hard stem of the old plant. 
Such rarely do well, and are always liable to prema¬ 
turely throw flower buds. 
Soil and Pots—The compost should consist of 
equal parts of loam and leaf soil, with enough sharp 
sand added to keep the whole open. A capital addi¬ 
tion is a little of the ash obtained from the combus¬ 
tion of the stems and leaves of the old plants. About 
a thirtieth of this in bulk may be added to the heap 
and well mixed up. It is astonishing to note the 
difference that is apparent between young plants 
grown in soil to which the ash has been added, and 
others which have not had this attention paid them 
The pots used should be small, rather long thumbs. 
One crock at the bottom, covered with a little of the 
roughest of the compost, will be sufficient drainage. 
One cutting should be inserted in the middle of each 
pot. Roots are more quickly formed, perhaps, when 
the cuttings are placed close to the edge of the pot, 
but there is then a difficulty in getting the young 
plants into the middle of the larger pots during sub¬ 
sequent shifts. 
Subsequent Treatment —After the first watering 
but very little water will be needed, and that must 
be applied carefully and with discretion. Keep the 
handlights closed for the first week, and shade if 
necessary from sun should the days be bright. After 
the expiration of the week, if the cuttings are looking 
well, a chink of air may be admitted, increasing this 
this as the days go by. Should flagging be observed, 
however, the lights must go on at once. In a few 
week's time the lights may be removed during the 
middle of the day, and finally may be left off alto¬ 
gether. Pay close attention to damping. Any 
leaves that show signs of it should be removed at 
once to prevent the infection spreading. 
Fuchsias.—Both those plants which have been 
grown in pots and those which were planted in the 
flower garden last summer and were lifted from 
thence at the beginning of October may be laid 
closely together on their sides. No water will be 
needed. It will be advisable, however, not to lay 
the plants too close to the pipes. 
Agapanthus umbellatus. — These plants will do with 
a place underneath the stage but it should be as far 
forward as possible close to the border of the path¬ 
way, so that they may get plenty of light. It is a 
common but erroneous practice to keep the plants 
without any water at all from the time they are 
housed in the autumn until they are put out of doors 
again next spring. This treatment is little short of 
barbarous, and it is only by reason of its unfailing 
good nature that the Agapanthus stands it. Give 
the plants a fair amount of water, sufficient to keep 
a healthy green hue upon the foliage instead of the 
sickly yellow that one often sees, but not a drop of 
liquid manure or any stimulant whatever.— Rex. 
-- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Bees.— G. A.\ The super should be taken off the 
hive at once. There will be no bees in it, of course, 
but it would tend to make the hive cold and draughty. 
We think you ought to cover your hives up more 
warmly. 
Rose Marechal Niel.— Enquirer. You may certainly 
grow this Rose in a large pot under glass, but the 
plant will not do so satisfactorily as it would if it 
were planted out. Can you not make up a bed of 
soil beneath the stage to accommodate it ? Use good 
loam, and add to it a sixth part of short, well-rotted 
manure. 
Smilax Going Wrong — A. A. : It is more than 
likely that your plants were injured by frost. The 
fact that they are throwing up fresh growths from 
the bottom would seem to point to this. 
Begonias .—Star : If you have a warm house you 
might sow the Begonia seed about the end of January. 
As the seed is very fine it must only be lightly 
covered with earth. The seedlings will be sure to 
exhibit a good deal of difference in the colour t f 
their flowers. Hence you will not be able to mal e 
use of the plants this year for filling beds where tie 
colours are to be restricted to one or two. For fill¬ 
ing mixed beds, of course, they are suitable enough. 
Freesias Turning Yellow.— Yeo You have sub¬ 
jected your plants to too much fire-heat, and this 
is the cause of the foliage going yellow. You appear 
to have given sufficient water at the root. Try and 
surround your plants with a more kindly atmosphere. 
Pear Louise Bonne of Jersey. -Amator . This 
variety will do remarkably well either as an oblique 
or an upright cordon. 
Red Currant .—Amator ; The Old Dutch Red is a 
variety of long standing, and when well grown is a 
good all-round variety. The fruit is of good flavour 
and colour, and the tree will grow and crop well in 
almost any locality. 
Dahlias. - Is it necessary to divide the roots of 
Dahlias before planting them next year? I have 
quite as many plants as my garden will contain, and 
therefore I do not wish to propagate,— Dahlia. 
You may if you choose cut away some of the 
smaller tubers before you plant the rootstocks, but 
this is not at all necessary. The safer plan will be 
to plant them just as they are and thin out the 
growths presently if the plants threaten to become 
too big. You will then be able to go to work warily. 
Clubbing in Cabbage .—Greengrocer : This is caused 
by a slime fungus which infects the roots of the 
plants. In pricking out the plants from the seedbed 
into their permanent quarters it is always well to be 
on the lookout for the first evidencs of the disease 
and to reject such plants as show the protuberances, 
even if the latter are but small. A good dressing of 
gas lime should be applied to the ground while it is 
vacant previous to the Cabbages being planted. 
Two bushels of gas lime will form an effective dress¬ 
ing for three rods of ground in bad cases. The gas 
lime should be obtained fresh from the works if 
possible. 
Sparrows and Carnations. — I notice during the 
