414 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 26, 1898. 
CELERIAC. 
Celeriac or Turnip-rooted Celery is a vegetable 
that is comparatively rarely grown to any extent in 
English gardens, although upon the Continent— 
notably in Germany—it is in high favour. 
In the ordinary Celery the stem, or at least the 
edible part of it, is very small, and only serves 
to bear the leaves,of which the stalks when blanched 
are eaten, but even this small piece of stem is the 
sweetest and most toothsome morsel of the whole 
stick. In Celeriac we have the stem or axis of the 
plant developed to a considerable extent, and form¬ 
ing a swollen basal protuberance in shape not unlike 
a Turnip, although here the resemblance ceases. 
The great advantage attaching to Celeriac is th’t 
it withstands the frost much better than the more 
succulent Celery, and this is no doubt the reason 
why it is so much grown in Germany, where the 
frosts are much more severe and of longer continu¬ 
ance than they are in this country. 
Celery cooked and served in the same way as 
Seakale is by no means a strange dish at English 
tables, and vast quantities are each year consumed 
in this fashion. Celeriac may be cooked in the same 
way as Beet and is fully as delicious as, and even 
more so in some people's estimation than Celery, 
for the flavour is more delicate. A good plan is to drop 
the swollen stems, from which the leaves have been 
roughly cut, into boiling water which should contain 
no salt or any flavouring which would spoil the 
fineness of the vegetable. Keep them boiling for an 
hour or two until they are quite tender, then pare 
and slice them up, serving with white sauce. 
To grow Celeriac well a long season of growth 
should be given it. The seed should be sown in a 
gentle heat at the beginning of March, pricking out 
the young plants into pans in the same way as 
Celery and growing them on under glass till the 
weather admits of their being put outside. A light 
rich soil is the most suitable, and the plants should 
be put out on the level ground, and not in trenches 
like Celery. A distance of from fifteen to eighteen 
inches each way will suffice for room. 
-- 
Questions add Ansojens 
Grubs at roots of Primulas and Begonias.— W.E.B.-. 
The grubs you sent are those of an Otiorhynchus, 
most likely the Clay-coloured Weevil (O. picipes). 
There are two others which infest gardens, but the 
grubs are similar and you can determine them only 
in the perfect or weevil stage. All those plants which 
go wrong in the pots should be turned out, and every 
grub killed, which you can find. The weevils can¬ 
not fly, but crawl into cracks, and crevices of the 
walls of the houses, and beneath loose rubbish of 
all kinds. Your best plan then is to cement all 
crevices, and remove everything which would afford 
them shelter, but yet are not needed in the plant 
houses By laying a few loose pieces of board about 
the houses over night, and examining these traps in 
the morning you may be able to catch the old or per¬ 
fect weevils, thereby preventing them from laying 
their eggs in the soil of pots, or even under the pot¬ 
ting benches. By perseverance in these methods 
you should be able to exterminate them and so pre¬ 
vent a recurrence of the evil next year. 
Daisies on the Lawn — X.Y.Z .: The most effect¬ 
ual remedy is to get a spud or two consisting of a 
short wooden handle fitted into a piece of iron forked 
at the end (such an implement is generally easily 
obtainable from a seedsman, sundriesman, or iron¬ 
monger), and set some boys to fork up the Daisies. 
We know that it is a slow process, but none the less 
effectual. The work should be done at once, while 
the ground is soft. An old bread knife or something 
similar that would cut the Daisies just below the 
crown, would probably answer the purpose as well, 
and enable the work to proceed quite as quickly. 
There will be bare spots on the lawn so that you 
ought to top-dress it with rich soil from beneath the 
potting benches.mixedwith some well decayed manure. 
Spread this on the grass and scatter it with a broom 
or rake. Then sow some grass seeds, roll the ground 
at intervals till mowing commences. Possibly a few 
Daisies may come up next summer, but a boy may 
be set to deal with them after rain. The roller will 
then smooth down the lawn. By vigilance and by 
feeding the grass, the latter will grow vigorously, 
covering the ground and leaving no space for the 
Daisies. Lawns usually get impoverished by the cut¬ 
ting and removal of the grass. 
Planting out Young Yines — Omega :—It would 
depend very much upon the state of growth of the 
Vines at the time of planting. If they are in a rest¬ 
ing condition you could plant them in the open 
border about the beginning of April. It would 
occasion the least trouble in establishing the same if 
you keep them cool and resting till that time. Then 
plant them out in the properly prepared soil, and the 
growth they make will harden as it grows. You will 
-also be able to spread out the roots properly before 
covering them with soil. If you start them into 
growth before planting out, you would have to shade 
them from sunshine till partly established, especially 
if you break the ball of soil in order to spread out the 
roots. 
Stopping and timing Chrysanthemums -Dubi- 
tanti: By only stopping your plants once it is diffi¬ 
cult to see how you are to get from twelve to twenty 
shoots, that is, strong and vigorous ones. By stop¬ 
ping the plants once you should get three strong 
leads. Some varieties might give a greater number, 
but others would almost be certain to give fewer. 
Supposing you get three strong shoots which grow 
till a crown bud appears. Several side shoots would 
then break out, and if allowed to grow, they would 
completely stop the further growth of the crown bud. 
Say that each of the three shoots produced three 
others. You would then have nine ; but the buds 
they develop would not be first crown buds. Some 
varieties produce a number of crown buds in succes¬ 
sion. There is another plan which you may not 
have tried, namely, growing on some plants for a 
second year. They will throw up numerous suckers 
from the base, and you can retain the number that 
suits your requirements, cutting the rest away. You 
can stop them once and finally select the number of 
shoots you wish retained. You can then take the 
first or second crown, whichever is most suitable. 
Select plants for this purpose that have not been over¬ 
fed the previous season. Repot and tend them as 
usual. 
Chrysanthemums Diseased—C. C. M.\ The 
cuttings you sent us are badly attacked with the 
Chrysanthemum rust, a species of Puccinia in the 
Uredo stage, and considered to be Uredo Tanaceti, 
allied to the rust of Roses, Carnations, etc., but by 
no means identical, being a different species. There 
is a good deal of it in America, where it is very 
destructive to Chrysanthemums, and from whence it 
has in all probability been introduced unintentionally 
to this country. We have had samples sent us on 
previous occasions from growers in Britain. The 
disease is as incurable as Carnation rust, and the 
only thing you can do is to avoid introducing it to 
your collection, if possible. A damp atmosphere is 
favourable to the spreading of the fungus, but with 
Chrysanthemums it is difficult to avoid moisture, 
especially in autumn and winter. The varieties 
attacked with it should be destroyed if they are as 
bad as the specimens sent. Being a new disease, we 
cannot yet say if it attacks all varieties indiscrim¬ 
inately, as that has to be found out by experience. 
Carnations diseased.— Omega : Your Carnations 
are affected with the Carnation Rust caused by the 
fungus Uromyces caryophyllinus. It is a bad case 
if the leaves are all as bad as those you sent us. The 
disease is incurable, because the fungus lives in the 
interior of the plants. You should burn the worst 
plants ; then pick off and burn all diseased leaves 
on other plants. By way of prevention keep the 
plants practically dust dry at the roots. The atmos¬ 
phere should also be dry, cool and well ventilated. 
Never syringe the plants. Propagate from shoots 
clear of the disease. If you can, get clean and fresh 
stock, the old may be destroyed and the house 
thoroughly cleaned before putting in the new stock. 
Names of Plants.— E. Ballard', i, Pinus Peuce ; 
2, Abies nordmanniana ; 3, Picea Morinda (other¬ 
wise known as Abies smithiana).— W.L.: 1, For- 
sythia viridissima ; 2, Euonymusradicans variegatus ; 
3, EuODymus microphyllus variegatus ; 4, Cornus 
mas.— W. G. B. : Eucalyptus globulus, in the adult 
stage.— C.A.M.: 1, Doodia aspera; 2, Selaginalla 
apus.— H. C.: 1, Lonicera Cavendishii; 2, Pyrus 
japonica ; 3, Crocus biflorus var.; 4, Erica mediter- 
ranea.— P.C .; 1, Odontoglossum Lindleyanum ; 2, 
Cypripedium Godefroyae; 3, Laelia anceps; 4, 
Odontoglossum Hallii; 5, Davallia hirta cristata ; 6, 
Platyloma rotundifolia.— A. J.: 1, Primula denti- 
culata ; 2, Vinca major. 
Communications Received I- Mayne.—J. G. 
P.—John Plummer.—Wm Witard.—W. Atlee 
Burpee & Co.—A Member of the N.C.S.—W. B. G.— 
J. W. Moorman.—A. D.—Leeds Orchid Co.—- 
J. H. W.—H. J. Hobby —E. T. L.—A. O.—S. 
Axton.—Y. Y.—Rob.—Wily. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Toogood & Sons, Southampton . — Toogood’s 
Annual Pasture-seed Report. 
Frank Cant& Co.,Braiswick Nursery, Colchester. 
—Rose Catalogue. 
Little & Ballantyne, The Queen’s Seedsmen, 
Carlisle.—Farm Seeds. 
E. H. Krelage & Son, Royal Bloemhof Nurseries, 
Haarlem, Holland. Catalogue of Novelties, 
Begonias, Cannas, Dahlias, Gladiolus, Gloxinias, &c. 
Dobbie & Co., Seed Growers to Her Majesty, 
Rothesay.—Agricultural Seeds for Spring. 1098. 
J C. Schmidt, Erfurt, Germany.—Catalogue of 
Sundries for Garden and Field, House and Hall 
Consolidated Steel and Wire Company, 
Havemeyer Building. New York City.—Catalogue of 
Consolidated Field Fencing. 
R. H. Bath, Ltd., The Flower Farms, Wisbech.— 
Choice Plants for the Garden. 
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For LAWNS, ditto 
For VINES, ditto 
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WEBB & SONS, 
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Special Offer.-Warranted 1st. Quality. 
QPIRAEA JAPONICA, 2s. 6d. ; do. 
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