488 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 2, 1898J 
MINTS FOR MMATEURS. 
THE ANNUAL POTTING. 
Ferns.—While Palms may be looked upon as beiDg 
the artistocrats amongst the plants which we culti¬ 
vate, there is no doubt that their strongest competi¬ 
tors are Ferns. There is a curious interest attaching 
to this class of plants that is almost impossible to 
analyse as impossib’e to deny. We find amongst 
Ferns such a variety of habit and general appear¬ 
ance, ranging from the stately subject of tree¬ 
like form and dimensions to the lowly plant that 
barely lifts itself above the surface of its mother 
earth, and yet all are pretty and many of them re¬ 
ceive attention at the hands of the cultivator. 
But it is not of the beauty and usefulness of Ferns 
generally that we wish now to deal. Rather let us 
see what attention we can bestow upon the plants 
at the present time in order to fully develop this 
beauty, and thus be in a position to take full advan¬ 
tage of the capabilities of the plants for usefulness. 
To tell the truth, while almost everybody loves 
Ferns, and the love of many finds a practical outlet 
in an attempt to grow them, many people treat their 
Ferns very badly. To start with there is the mis¬ 
taken idea that is, alas, very general that Ferns do 
not want much light and indeed do not like it, and 
hence the plants are relegated to all sorts of dark 
corners, and are allowed to stay there until they are 
hopelessely crippled. Then again some have got 
hold of the idea that Ferns are not like other plants 
in that they want very little soil with scarcely any 
nutriment in it. The idea of a Fern wanting 
a fat soil, and failing that a little manurial stimulant 
never seems to occur to them, and the consequences 
is that the poor plants are absolutely starved to 
death for want of sufficient food. 
The potting of Ferns generally is an operation 
that requires a great deal of care and careful hand¬ 
ling, and thus it should never be lightly undertaken, 
but this does not mean that it is never to be under¬ 
taken. It is true that we often see specimens of 
such plants as Asplenium bulbiferum, A. flaccidum, 
and A obtusatum lucidum, very much pot-bound, 
and yet in the best of health, when a little judicious 
feeding has been practised. On the other hand this 
system of keeping the plants in the same pots year 
after year must not be carried to the extreme, for 
there comes a time when a shift into roomier 
quarters is absolutely necessary if the plants are to 
be kept in health. 
Adiantums.—The Maiden-hair Ferns have always 
had a particular fascination for the amateur, and 
often enough do we see a desperate struggle made to 
keep it alive in windows of dwelling rooms in cottages 
and villas. It is to be feared that only a very limi¬ 
ted amount of success attends these efforts. The 
plants may do fairly well during the summer months, 
but as autumn wears on they begin to get shabby, 
and the fronds go off one by one. The amateur cul¬ 
tivator fondly hopes to resuscitate his plant by giv¬ 
ing it copious supplies of water, and the poor plant is 
practically drowned. As the period of natural rest 
approaches less water should be given (instead of 
more), and nothing should be done to disturb this 
rest through the winter months. The temperatures 
of winter will then have comparatively little effect, 
and the plant will start away strongly in the spring. 
Now that the delicate growths which are to make 
fronds presently have begun to push up, it will be 
safe to infer that there is a corresponding activity 
in the roots. If the plants are knocked out of their 
pots there will be found live tips of lately formed 
roots on the outside of the ball. If potting is to be 
done, therefore, this is just the time to catch the 
plants. As much of the old drainage should be 
removed as possible, and by means of a thin pointed 
stick the roots all round the outside of the ball 
should be loosened. This part of the programme 
will require the greatest care, for the young tips are 
very delicate and easily injured. If the roots at the 
bottom of the ball are dead, as can easily be ascer¬ 
tained by inspection, they may be pulled away 
entirely, and the ball may then be much reduced, so 
as to enable it to go into a smaller pot than the one 
it is now in. This reduction of the ball should 
not be attempted, however, if there are living roots 
at the bottom. The soil should consist of equal 
parts of peat and loam with plenty of sharp sand, 
and a little charcoal. Do not attemp to mix arti¬ 
ficial manures of any description or soot with the 
potting soil. Good leaf soil may be substituted for 
peat if desired. In this case it should be freed from 
all sticks and stones, and should be broken up finely 
by passing it through a sieve. Pot with moderate 
firmness only. The use of the lath or a thin 
potting stick that we have previously referred to will 
be necessary in many cases to work the new soil all 
round the sides of the ball, but it should not be 
employed with too much vigour. 
For Adiantum farleyense, A. cuneatum and its 
varieties, A. hispidulum, A. scutum, and other 
forms of similar growth, the ordinary shape of pots 
will be found the best, but for A. Capillus-Veneris 
and its varieties, pans which give a larger surface 
area in proportion to the depth and quantity of soil 
than the pots will be found the proper thing. 
In cases where it is desired to split up large 
plants into a number of smaller pieces, the present is 
the most favourable time of the whole year to do so. 
Propagation by division has the advantage that it 
enables the grower to quickly obtain as many plants 
as he may want of a useful size without waiting for 
them to be raised from spores which is, of necessity, 
a comparatively lengthy process. Apart from this, 
however, the sowing of spores and the raising of 
young plants by that means is preferable. Of 
course, with A. farleyense division is the only 
method of propagation open to us, as the plants do 
not spore. We may mention in passing that this 
handscme Fern will need exceedingly careful treat¬ 
ment subsequent to division. Amongst other things 
a rather high temperature is necessary, and the 
watering can must be in the hands of one who knows 
how to use it properly. 
Aspleniums.—In this great genus are grouped a 
number of some of the handsomest of Ferns. Plants 
like A. bulbiferum, and its various varieties, and A. 
flaccidum are very popular plants, inasmuch as they 
are handsome and easily grown. They are, more¬ 
over, vigorous rooting subjects, and an endeavour 
should be made to keep them within bounds, other¬ 
wise their pots will soon be of enormous size. In 
potting rather more loam should be used in the soil 
than was advised for the Adiantums. 
Pterises.—The varieties of P. cretica, and P. 
serrulata are well nigh innumerable, and many of 
them are highly popular. This is not wonderful 
when we consider the beauty and elegance of some 
of the crested and tasselled forms. P. tremula and 
P. argyraea are among the most effective of the 
taller growing species, and besides doing well 
when grown in pots they succeed well when planted 
out in the under-glass fernery. The compost em¬ 
ployed should be strong and rich, and may well con¬ 
sist of two-thirds of loam to one of leaf soil or peat 
with sand. 
Nephrodiums.—Amongst cool house Nephrodiums 
N. molle is undoubtedly the favourite. Its long 
feathery looking fronds are totally distinct from any¬ 
thing else, and the shade of green they exhibit is 
likewise distinct. The crested form N. m. corymbi- 
ferum is met with occasionally in collections, and is 
a handsome Fern, although its beauty is of a some¬ 
what heavy style. The amateur should be on his 
guard against overpotting both N. molle and its 
crested variety. This is very easily done and the 
great quantity of cold wet soil lying about the roots 
in winter time is almost sure to cause many of the 
roots to rot. Any old plants that are in big pots 
should therefore be closely examined, and if it be 
found that too much room has been given, the dead 
roots should be cut away and a smaller pot given. 
Gymnogramme. — That the Gold and Silver 
Ferns are beautiful there is no denying, but there is 
also no denying that they are somewhat ticklish sub¬ 
jects to grow. Young plants or sporelings grow 
away strongly enough, but as they get older if they 
once get a check all is generally over with them. In 
potting the plants too much care cannot be given, 
for if the roots are pulled about too much the plants 
are almost sure to go home. Give a compost of 
equal parts of loam and peat with plenty of sharp 
sand, and a few lumps of charcoal worked in. After 
potting shade the plants closely, for the sun's rays 
are bright now and would much distress the plants 
if allowed to fall directly upon them.— Rex. 
-- 
A Ground Beetle known as Harpalus ruficornis 
proved troublesome to Strawberry fruit in various 
districts during 1897. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening mil be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“ Amateurs' Page ” on the top oj their letters. 
Tomatos under Glass.— A. C. L. : It will be best 
for you to draw back the shingle from the stage for 
say 15 or 18 ins. nearest the sides of the house. You 
may then put up a ridge of soil about a foot in depth 
along the whole length of the house, and plant the 
Tomatos in this. The soil should consist iu bulk of 
good loam enriched by having added to it one-fourth 
of its volume of well decayed stable manure, or cow 
manure if that can be obtained. The plants should 
then be procured and planted at once. For a con¬ 
siderable time you will still be able to use the house 
for plants, and if you only plant along one side its 
value for plants will not be greatly diminished. If 
you plant along both sides the plants will not get so 
much light and will of course not do so well. 
Asplenium longissimum — M. N.: You will find 
this Asplenium a real beauty for growing in a basket, 
but it requires a warm house. The temperature you 
speak of—45 0 Fahr by night would be much too 
cold for it. A compost of two-thirds loam, with one- 
third peat and plenty of sand will suit it well. The 
wire basket will suit it well enough. You may if you 
choose line it with moss, but we should prefer to 
use very fibrous loam for this purpose. Try and 
obtain some very fibrous turves from the loam heap, 
and shake the greater part of the loose soil out 
of them. You will find these answer for lining 
much better than the moss. 
Nerines.— Aloe: If the foliage is showing signs of 
going off you may curtail the water supply gradually. 
Give the plants the benefit of all the sun possible. 
No more manures should be applied to them now— 
the season for that is past. 
A Good Cineraria.— In a batch of Cinerarias 
which were raised from seed sown last June, I 
have a very fiae deep blue form which I should like 
to save. Will it come true from seed ?— Rob. 
Seedlings naturally vary a great deal, and you 
would probably find a grand mixture of varieties 
spring from the one seed parent. Your best plan 
will be to cut the plant down after flowering has 
fioishe I. It will then throw up a number of suckeis 
from the roots, round the base of the old stem. 
These may be taken off, potted up, and there are 
your plants. This system of cultivation is exten¬ 
sively followed in cases of specially good varieties. 
Adiantum Fronds Going Off — Rob : From what 
you say we have little doubt that the tips of the ten¬ 
der fronds have been scorched by the sun. You 
must shade them more closely ; also stop sprinkling 
them overhead, for this is assisting the evil. Either 
slugs or cockroaches have been responsible for the 
young fronds that have been bitten through. 
If you cannot catch the slugs and kill all the cock¬ 
roaches by poison, stand the plant on a saucer or pot 
inserted in a vessel of some kind containing water. 
The cockroaches will not pass the water. 
Cutback Chrysanthemums.— Ito : Those plants 
that you wish to develop into bush specimens should 
be pinched or cut back to within three or four leaves 
of the base of the stem. When the side-breaks 
begin to make their appearance the plants will be 
ready for potting. 
Primula Seed.— Enquirer : In order to “ set ’’ the 
flowers, as gardeners phrase it, you must employ a 
small, soft, camel's hair brush. The stamens and 
the pistils are of different lengths, and the anthers 
and the stigma consequently at different levels. 
Push the brush gently down the tube, twist it round 
and withdraw it; some of the pollen will be sure to 
have been deposited on the stigma by this means. 
Anemone Pulsatilla.— E. Ewart : This Anemone 
is propagated by seed. Sow the latter as soon as it 
is ripe in pans or boxes, and cover with a handlight 
or place them in a frame. This will be all the 
shelter required. 
Young Raspberries. — E. Ewart : You should have 
cut the young canes down to within a few inches of 
the bottom, and if you have not done it you had 
