492 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 2, 1898. 
@lt atiings fit. urn ffjc H>ucU> 
of Srienrq. 
The undermentioned subjects were brought before 
the Scientific Committee of the Royal Horticultural 
Society, on March 8th. 
Phytoptus ribis.—An interesting letter was 
received from Miss Ormerod giving an account of 
what is being done experimentally at the Duke of 
Bedford’s fruit farm at Woburn, under the direction 
of Mr. Spencer PicKering, F.R.S. As to the possi¬ 
bility of obtaining "mite-proof" Black Currants, 
the only result has been some plants received from 
Budapest, which she has distributed to the Tod- 
dington fruit grounds, to Mr. Speir Newton s farm, 
Glasgow, and to Woburn. Miss Ormerod has given 
as exhaustive an account as she could form of the 
disease in a special appendix to her twenty-first 
annual report, from the period of its first appearance 
until the present time. A series of experiments are 
now being set on foot at Woburn directed to every 
point which is open for serviceable action, including 
chemical applications. These will be followed by 
expert examinations of the contents of the galled 
buds treated ; and with coincident examination of 
galled buds under precisely similar circumstances, 
but not treated chemically. These experiments will 
be found detailed in the appendix, pp. 141-158. A 
conclusion anticipated is that there should be " a 
difference in broadscale method of growing." 
Scotch Fir, Malformation.—Mr. Veitch sent 
a curious mass of stunted boughs, the whole 
resembling a hedgehog, and probably caused origin¬ 
ally by a Phytoptus or fungus. Dr. Masters 
observed that short boughs struck from such 
specimens were used as miniature trees, for rock- 
work, ete. 
Sprouting Broccoli.—A remarkable specimen 
was received from Mr. W. P. Wright, Wille;borough, 
Ashford, Kent, from the central and much enlarged 
stem of which a large number of good sized lateral 
shoots had appeared. It was suggested that if it be 
capable of being “ fixed" it would probably prove 
a valuable acquisition. 
Phytoptus on Hazel.—Mr. G. Gordon sent 
specimens of this well-known complaint, allied to the 
Currant mite. The samples were received from 
Kent, where the Black Currant is badly infested. It 
was first observed at the locality on the Hazel last 
year. 
Orchid Roots with Fungus.—With reference 
lo the specimen brought to the last meeting, Mr. 
Murray, of the Gardens, Oakwood, Wylam on-Tyne, 
writes to say that he is " convinced that it is from no 
other cause than from the want of air, or, rather, 
circulation of air, among the plants.” In a previous 
communication to Mr. Douglas he expressed agree¬ 
ment with Mr. Veitch's interpretation, but not quite 
in the manner he explained, for he observes, “ I 
ventilate the houses day and night with the venti¬ 
lators, . . . but the air upon the stages, or, 
rather, above the stages, when the plants are stand¬ 
ing close together, travels very slowly, even with 
ventilators open, in comparison with that around the 
centre staging, as plants thereon seldom show signs 
of fungus ” 
Two and Three-Spathed Arums.— Mrs. 
Richards of Westridge, near Ryde, forwarded two 
flowers, one with two spathes, the other with three, 
both from the same plant. They were very fine 
instances, and it was reasonable to expect such 
might prove constant. If so, a permanent form with 
two or more spathes would be very desirable. 
Azaleodendron.—A hybrid between an Azalea 
mollis or sinensis and a Rhododendron, received from 
Sir Trevor Lawrence, was unanimously awarded a 
Botanical Certificate. It was raised by M. Le Prof. 
Fynaert, of Ghent. 
Lange Ivy Stem.— Prof. Henslow exhibited a 
section of Ivy, some 10 in. by 8 in. across. It grew 
round a tall Holly, about 50 ft. in height, at Zeals 
Rectory, Wilts. 
Twin Apple.—A remarkable monstrosity was 
sent from Mr. Bar-at-Gin, 3, Praed Street. Instead 
of being the result of the fusion of two flowers, as 
occurs in Tomatos, &c.—i.e., a " synanthic " con¬ 
dition, a vertical section revealed the fact that they 
were the result of a bifurcation of the axis below, 
the under side of the Apple giving no signs of its 
being a twin, 
Cypress Diseased.—A specimen received from 
Dr. Church, having the bark split and detached and 
infested with fungi, was forwarded to Kew for further 
examination. The following report was received : — 
" Cupressus dolabrata.—This is a typical example of 
bark-scorching, the cortex being first killed by ex¬ 
posure to the sun's rays, afterwards splits and forms 
sun cracks, and finally separates from the wood. 
The fungus present—Corticium lacteum, Fries —is 
simply saprophytic on the dead parts." 
-- 
Kitcfyen Garden Calendar. 
The peculiar and ungenial weather of late has 
somewhat retarded out-door operations, as snow 
lay on the ground in many places to the depth 
of several inches, which has lowered the tempera¬ 
ture of the soil to such an extent as to check 
the growth of plants. We may now hope for 
better weather so that planting and sowing may be 
proceeded with. Advantage should be taken of the 
first genial weather to plant Onions that have been 
raised under glass. These should not be put too 
deeply in the ground or the plants instead of forming 
bulbs will be thick-necked. Cauliflower that was 
raised under glass may also be transferred to the 
open quarters, and the same may be said of Leeks, 
Lettuce, Cabbage and Parsley. 
Potatos.— Towards the end of the second week 
the planting of these may be general. Those who 
have to grow a goodly portion of their supply in the 
kitchen garden, would do well to be careful in their 
selection of varieties, choosing those that are of 
medium growth. Potatos are an important crop in 
some gardens, while in others only a few for early 
use are planted, those for the main supply being 
grown on the farm. For earlies the Ashleaf and 
Sharp’s Victor are good, while for a winter supply 
Windsor Castle is one of the best. Brussels Sprouts, 
Borecole, and early Broccoli seed may now be sown. 
The seeds must be well protected from birds, which 
are very partial to them. Snails are also troublesome, 
therefore, these must be kept in check. 
Celery for a late supply should be sown on a 
warm border; the soil for this cannot well be too 
rich, for the quicker the plants are grown the better 
the result. Choose a sheltered spot where the 
ground is level so that watering may be done more 
evenly than where it is on the slope. Should the 
weather be dry the ground must be kept moist by 
frequeot though slight waterings. Plants that are 
getting forward in boxes or on hot beds should be 
transplanted into the trenches as soon as the 
weather is favourable, as there is nothing gained by 
keeping them until they have attained a large size 
before putting them out. Celery is quite hardy until 
blanching takes place, which alters its character 
entirely. 
Leeks that were raised under glass may now be 
transplanted in the open ground. Where space is 
limited trenches may be taken out as for Celery, but 
this is not necessary as blanching can easily be 
effected by means of drain pipes. We have no 
preference for the long slender stems. Bulk in 
these as in Onions is more to be desired ; therefore 
as this can be produced in thickness instead of 
in length there is a point gained by aiming at the 
latter, as less trouble is required to effect the end. 
Peas must on no account be neglected now. 
As soon as those sown in the last month appear 
through the soil make another sowing of such 
varieties as Model Telephone, Model Telegraph, 
Exhibition, Veitch's Main Crop, Danby Stratagem, 
Invincible, and the like. The boughs should be 
put to the others as soon as they are a couple of 
inches high, taking care to use plenty of spray to 
keep the young plants upright until tendrils are 
formed, and they can support themselves 
Salsafy is rather a troublesome vegetable to 
grow well, but if properly treated there is no reason 
why every garden should not be able to give a supply 
of this delicately flavoured winter root. Where the 
soil is poor and light, holes should be made with a 
dibber about a foot deep and nine inches apart in 
the row ; these should be filled with light rich soil 
that has been passed through a half-inch sieve. 
Three or four seeds should be put in each station, and 
when the young plants have made the second rough 
leaf they should be thinned out to one at each 
place. Scorzonera may be treated in the same way. 
or where the ground is suitable may be sown in 
drills fifteen inches apart. 
Vegetable Marrows may now be planted on 
slight hot-beds where they can be protected until 
all danger of frost is over. Another sowing may 
also be made for a later supply. Herbs of various 
kinds may now be sown, such for example as 
Thyme, Chervil, Marjoram and Savory. Make a 
successional sowing of Spinach. The Carter is one 
of the best for summer use. Small sowings of 
Turnips must also be made. It is not advisable to 
sow more at one time than for an immediate supply, 
as they so soon run to seed during dry weather.— 
Snowball, Early Milan, and Mouse-tail, are amongst 
the best. Lettuce should now be sown of the 
summer Cos varieties, and those already large 
enough for transplanting should be put out a foot 
apart each way, or they may be grown between the 
rows of Peas. Small sowings of Radishes of the 
early Olive or French Breakfast type should be 
sown on a warm border. Attend to stopping and 
regulating the growths of Cucumbers. Those on 
hot-beds where the heat is on the decline should have 
a lining put round the frames .—Kitchen Gardener. 
• I - 
Trie Orclilfl Grower’s calendar. 
Warm Division. —At the approach of spring every¬ 
thing begins to burst into new life,so to speak. The 
Vandas, Angraecums.Aerides and all the distichous¬ 
leaved plants have become active. It is easy to see 
when growth commences in earnest. The new foli¬ 
age pushing from the centre or head of the plants is 
of a pale green colour, and the points of the roots 
assume a delicate pink and pea-green colour. When 
this takes place it is a good plan to go over the plants, 
resurfacing them with some live sphagnum moss, 
previously made warm by placing it in the same 
house some hours before it is required for use. 
In some structures the moss will grow like mad, 
whilst in others it has to be coaxed considerably, 
even to placing the growing points uppermost. 
When the top-dressing is done water sparingly for a 
time, but keep the moss alive by gently sprinkling 
with a fine rose can or the syringe, and keep rather 
shady until a fresh start is made. 
Dendrobiums. —The heat necessary to properly 
bring the flowers to perfection after the long resting 
season naturally causes the plants to start into growth 
also, and by the time the flowers are either cut or 
fade will be some inches high. It is a good plan 
therefore when this stage is reached to afford them 
some fresh material, for unless other people’s plants 
are different from ours, the moss will have lost all 
its vitality. The peat should be used in as lumpy a 
state as possible and without having any of the 
fine particles shaken out as is usual. The very best 
results that have come under my notice, have been 
obtained when very ordinary peat has been used, 
with a liberal amount of silver sand added thereto, 
or pieces of charcoal. The system of beating and 
sifting out all the fine particles is a mistake in most 
cases, for you get rid of what little nourishment there 
ever was in the material ; and it has to be made up 
some other way. Do not press the material in too 
•closely, as such a proceeding prevents the air getting 
at the roots and the water from passing quickly away. 
The drainage, too, must be ample for a like reason. 
Keep the plants in position by neat stakes, so that 
they do not topple over. All the Dendrobiums re¬ 
quire strong heat in the growing season, such as is 
given to East Indian subjects. And where a stove 
exists for growing Crotons, &c., no one need fear to 
take on the culture of this most useful family. The 
exception is D. jamesianum which does best under 
cooler treatment. 
Seedlings. —Most establishments where Orchids 
are grown can boast of a batch or batches of seed¬ 
lings of their own raising, in various stages, and to 
be up-to-date it is imperative that I should devote a 
small space to their particular requirements. I will 
say at once that of Cypripedium hybrids we have 
none ; but of Cattleyas, Laelias, and Odontoglossums 
we have about a hundred potted off singly into pots 
of various sizes from ij in. to 5 in. We find it 
necessary to keep them steadily going at all times, 
because being small they cannot be allowed much of 
a resting period. As they are now commencing to 
grow we shall (when this vile weather is gone) give 
them a bit of new stuff to grow in. In doing this 
