536 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 23, 1898. 
INTS FOR WMATEURS. 
Nepeta Glechoma yariegata. — Everyone who 
knows anything about British wild flowers must 
know the Ground Ivy, Nepeta Glechoma, or 
Glechoma hederacea, as it used to be called, for 
there is no plant more widely distributed. In 
partially shaded or damp spots it grows with the 
greatest luxuriance, and its ivy-like leaves, whence 
the popular name " Ground Ivy," and the old 
specific name “ hederacea," form a rich green carpet 
upon many a hedge bank, and by many a lane side, 
the blue flowers Deeping from amongst the foliage in 
countless numbers. Variegated, or improved forms 
of a few British wildings are cultivated to some 
extent in gardens, and the Ground Ivy is one of the 
cases in point. Some of the so-called improved 
forms of wildings are very little, if any, superior 
to the wild forms, but in the variegated Nepeta 
Glechoma we have a plant of uncommon merit and 
great beauty. It is totally distinct in appearance 
from anything else, and is as easy to grow as it is 
distinct. We have none too many plants that are 
suitable for the filling of baskets for the greenhouse 
and cool conservatory—at least, such plants as the 
ordinary amateur cau take up with confidence— 
hence it is all the more important that it should not 
be lost sight of. The variegated form has leaves of 
the same shape and size as the type, and the creep¬ 
ing habit is the same. It will grow vigorously in 
almost any soil, but likes a light rich one for prefer¬ 
ence. The best method of showing it to advantage 
is to grow it in baskets, for the long trails soon cover 
the outside of the baskets and hang down a consider¬ 
able length below them. One of the most note¬ 
worthy exhibits at the last meeting of the Royal 
Horticultural Society was composed of three plants 
grown and shown in this way by Mr. Charles 
Turner, of Slough, and a very pretty effect these 
three plants gave. 
Campanula isophylla alba —The present is a 
good time to see about repotting the old plants. 
Some of these have been rather badly treated during 
the winter, and are only just beginning to break into 
growth. Shake them out of the old soil, and pot 
them up, using a compost of two-thirds of loam and 
one of leaf soil with sand. All the dead snags should 
be cut off neatly with a pair of sharp scissors or a 
knife. By coddling these old plants up for a few 
weeks they may be turned into good specimens that 
will flower freely before the summer is very far ad¬ 
vanced. An occasional sprinkling with the syringe 
will not do them any harm. As basket plants, both 
Campanula isophylla and its charming white variety 
are everything that could be desired, and the plants 
never show up to such advantage as they do when 
thus suspended. In order to fill a good-sized basket 
several plants will be required. These may either be 
put into the baskets at once or grown on for a while 
in pots—say until the middle of May. The old 
plants of which we have been speaking will come in 
finely for this kind of work, as they will naturally 
throw more shoots, and will clothe the sides of the 
baskets more quickly than the young plants obtained 
from autumn or early spring-struck cuttiDgs. 
Not infrequently do we see various devices resorted 
to by amateurs to suspend pots from the roof of the 
greenhouse or the top of the window, in order to 
show a particular plant off without having recourse 
to growing it in special baskets. We may take the 
present opportunity of again calling the attention of 
those amateurs who may be handicapped by the lack 
of suitable baskets, to Lawton’s Patent Pot Suspen¬ 
der, a capital contrivance which was figured in The 
Gardening World in the issue for February 5th 
last. By the use of this clip, and a little wire or string 
threaded through the eyes, any pot may be safely 
and easily suspended in any position that may be 
desired. The cost is comparatively trifling, and will 
be saved many times over. 
Achimenes.—The earliest plants have now 
attained a height of 2 in. or 3 in., and staking should 
be proceeded with as soon as possible. If left too 
long the young plants, being very weak in the stem, 
soon commence to lop over the sides of the pots, 
and, if the mischief is allowed to proceed, they even¬ 
tually become twisted and gnarled looking things 
that are anything but an object of beauty. The 
best method of staking is to insert five or six light 
stakes all round, near the edge of the pot, and pass 
a strand of raffia loosely round them, giving it a 
double turn round each of the stakes to keep it in 
position. The stakes should be at least 10 in. long 
above the soil, and no attempt should be made to 
cut off the ends of the stakes until the plants have 
nearly attained their full growth. These early 
Achimenes may be kept growing on in heat, so as to 
get them into bloom betimes, but the later batches 
that are to afford a succession to them should not 
be hurried too much. The latest batch of all will 
need nothing more than a cool frame, in which they 
may be grown from start to finish. The summer 
proper will be gone before these commence to bloom, 
but there will be the corresponding advantages of 
larger, finer blooms, and sturdier, shorter-jointed 
growth. Achimenes grow away freely enough when 
placed in heat, but they then attain a much greater 
height than they do when the cool treatment is 
practised. 
Freesias —As the later batches of Freesias go out 
of bloom and begin to show signs that their approach¬ 
ing rest is at hand, the water supply should be gradu¬ 
ally lessened and all manurial stimulants must be 
stopped entirely. Give the plants plenty of light 
and air, so as to facilitate the ripening process. The 
plants that flowered earlier in the year are quite at 
rest now, and nothing should be allowed tojiisturb 
or stimulate them into premature growth. A cold 
frame facing to the north is a good place to put rest¬ 
ing plants such as these. 
Tulipa Grelgi. —This handsome and robust grow¬ 
ing species takes as kindly to cultivation under glass 
as it does in the open, and, when we take into con¬ 
sideration the huge size and brilliant flame-scarlet of 
its flowers, it is evident that it is well deserving of 
extensive cultivation as a pot plant. Some of the 
early Tulips are largely grown in this way, yet none 
of them is more handsome in every way than T. 
Greigi. At the last show of the Royal Horticultural 
Society it was very conspicuous in at least two ex¬ 
hibits, and in both cases the pots it was grown in 
were very small in comparison to the size of the 
plant and the mammoth proportions of the flowers. 
Those who make a speciality of bulbs for conserva¬ 
tory decoration will do well not to lose sight of it for 
another year, if they have not already proved its 
merits. The great thing is not to force too heavily, 
but to allow the plants to come on gradually, and to 
bloom just a little before their relatives in the open 
ground. T. Greigi is a native of Turkestan, and 
was introduced from thence no farther back than the 
year 1873, so that it is yet a comparative stranger. 
Coleuses. —The present is a good time to take a 
few of the largest of the plants obtained from early 
spring struck cuttings in hand, and pot them up to 
form fairly large specimens. As it is obvious that it 
takes some time to obtain these, even although the 
Coleus is a very quick growing subject, it is advis¬ 
able to select these specimens during the present 
month. They will then have all the best part of the 
year in front of them, and by the month of June or 
July will be in good condition for transference to the 
conservatory. This will be quite warm enough for 
them then, and up to—say the end of September— 
but after that time the leaves will begin to fall, owing 
to the lowering of the temperature all round. 
Good specimens can be obtained in 8-in. pots, but 
10-in. or 12-in. will not be too large for very strong¬ 
growing plants. Coleuses are rich feeding and 
thirsty plants, and, therefore, the soil should be rich 
and retentive. Two-thirds of good loam, and one of 
spent Mushroom bed manure, rubbed through a 
sieve, with a good sprinkling of sharp river sand 
will form a good compost. Drain the pots fairly well 
and pot rather firmly. In order to obtain symmetri¬ 
cal plants pinching must be resorted to occasionally ; 
all flowers in particular must be kept pinched out. 
The syringe should be plied freely amongst the 
plants morning and afternoon, and the temperature 
should not be allowed to fall below 6o° Fahr. 
Generous treatment such as this will be sure to pro¬ 
duce good plants in a month or two. 
Coleus Cuttings should still be put in as they can 
be obtained from the old stock plants. Although 
every amateur may not have room for big specimen 
plants neat little samples in 48 and 32 pots are 
always of service both for the greenhouse and con¬ 
servatory as well as for the windows of the dwelling 
house. In the latter position they are always much 
admired by the ladies of the house, and when 
properly looked after they do exceedingly well 
through the summer months.— Rex. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“ Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Woodlice —A warm pit which I used for propagat¬ 
ing tender plants is infested with woodlice. I have 
trapped many of the pests in pieces of Potato, 
hollowed out and laid about different parts of the 
pit, but the numbers of the pests show no appreci¬ 
able signs of diminution. Please give me a hint as 
to how to get rid of them a little quicker.— C. C. L. 
The best plan we know off is to pour boiling water 
in any corners where the woodlice are observed to 
be. If you clear the plants out of the pit you might 
easily do this. See that the water used is quite 
boiling and do not be afraid to use plenty of it. A 
kettleful or so will be of little use, so you should fill 
the kitchen copper and heat that, when you will have 
a plentiful supply. 
IncurYed Chrysanthemums.— Rob : You will find 
the following varieties to be as good a dozen as you 
can have:—Mrs. R. C. Kingston, C. H. Curtis, 
Lady Isabel, Mme. Ferlat, John Lambert, Lord 
Wolseley, Robert Petfield, Brookleigh Gem, D. B. 
Crane, J. Agate, Bonnie Dundee, and Baron 
Hirsch. 
Chrysanthemum C. H. Curtis.— Rob : First crown 
buds of this popular variety produce good blooms, 
and it also does well when it is stopped at the begin¬ 
ning of March, and the second crown buds are 
taken. 
Chrysanthemum N. C. S. Jubilee— S. Bencraft: 
This handsome variety received an Award of Merit 
from the Royal Horticultural Society on October 
26th of last year, as an incurved Japanese variety, 
and not as a true incurved. You would scarcely get 
judges to pass it as an incurved on the show board, 
but if you choose to run the risk of disqualification 
there is nothing to prevent you from so doing. 
Potting Camellias. — A. Denison-, You must wait 
until the flowers are all off the plants, and the young 
shoots have begun to make their appearance—that 
will be the best time to pot. Avoid as far as possible 
giving too big shifts. 
Newly Planted Peach Trees— P.: We think you 
may proceed to tie your trees now. As a couple of 
months have elapsed since planting, there is little 
danger of much more subsidence of the soil. You 
may, however, make the ties rather looser than is 
usual, as you say the ground was disturbed to a con¬ 
siderable depth all round. In training the tree you 
must be careful to bring the lower branches down as 
near to the ground as you can without straining 
them. You will then have the base of the tree 
well furnished, which is a matter of some impor¬ 
tance. If the branches of youDg trees are Dot 
thus brought down early in their career they soon 
become so stiff that is impossible to do anything with 
them, and, as a consequence, the base of the tree is 
bare for the whole of its existence. 
Syringing Yines.— R. Jones : It is usual to stop 
syringing the Vines as soon as they have got into the 
stage that is technically known as "rough leaf." 
The syringing then becomes unnecessary, although 
it is not harmful. You may syringe the Vines when 
in full leaf if you so desire, but in such a case you 
must be careful with the ventilation, so as to pre¬ 
vent burning. 
DaYallia canariensis.— A. E. B .: The healthy 
rhizomes of Davallia canariensis may be divided 
to form small plants, if desired. In dividing, take 
care to preserve intact as many as possible of the 
roots attached to the rhizomes. In potting these 
divisions up, it will probably be necessary to give sup¬ 
port to the heavier fronds. A higher temperature than 
the old plant was growing in should be given at 
first, so as to give the small plants a good start. 
Potting Japanese Maples.— W. Baston : Your 
plants do not need potting yet, for these pretty 
Maples will remain a loDg time in the same pots and 
