622 
r HE GARDENING WORLD. 
May 28, 1898. 
Qae$€iOQ& ADD AQ3>U>e{<$. 
Betiding Arrangement— Bedding : We consider that 
Peiargomum Robert Fish should be placed lu the 
centre as it grows taller, as a rule, than Begonia 
Vernon compacia By planting the latter in the 
patches No. 2, it would throw the darker colours as 
well as the dwar:er plants towards the outside where 
they would be best seen,and would certainlylook better 
a short way off. Moreover, the darker colours should 
always be kept towards the outside of a bed, or of a 
design. Santolina incana will answer very well for 
the dividing lines between the above two. Top the 
plants by pinching them when on a level with the 
dowering subjects. Echeveria secunda glauca will 
make a very good edging to the whole. 
Double Polyanthus and Green Primrose —IF. 
Angus : The duuble crimson form is a variety of the 
garden Polyanthus; but though the crimson petals 
are very numerous, they are very small, and we do 
not think it has ever been named. Numerous forms 
have been raised at one time or another from partly 
double dowers ; but yours were so completely double 
that the ovary has been developed into petals, partly 
green and partly coloured, so that you cannot raise 
seedlings from it. The other is a green variety of 
the Primrose (Primula vulgaris), but we do not find 
that it has been named in an old list of Primroses 
and Polyanthus before us. For the sake of dis¬ 
tinction you may call it the Green Primrose or Pri¬ 
mula vulgaris virididora. It seems to exist in several 
gardens, for we had it from another correspondent 
recently. 
Fimbriated Polyanthus— David May: The 
dowers you send were pretty and deliciously fragrant. 
The principal distinction about them is the fimbriated 
character of the segments, which have been increased 
in number from five to six. They are also very 
much widened, so that there is no room for them to 
lie fiat, the result being that they have become 
plaited and more or less deeply divided at the outer 
edges. This latter character is what you should 
develop. Do not be content with the present form, 
but fertilise the flowers with their own pollen, and 
raise seedlings. If you get a number of plants with 
fimbriated flowers, intercross them and always select 
the most deeply fringed varieties. You might 
ultimately raise something very pretty for border 
work—a new race in fact. 
Worm in Raspberry Buds and Canes. — D Stuart: 
Your Raspberries are very badly infested with the 
larvae or grubs of a tiny moth known as the Red 
Bud Caterpillar (Lampronia Rubiella). being named 
red from the colour of the larvae. You have done 
right in cutting off all the buds and destroying them ; 
but you might do this at the first indication of the 
injury. They should really be burned to prevent 
any of the grubs iiora going into the pupae state and 
from thence to the perfect stage to repeat the injury 
to your plants another year. We recommend you 
to have all rubbish cleared away about the plants 
and burned. The old stems, which have fruited, 
should also be cut away after the fruit has been 
gathered and burnt. If there are plantations of 
wild Raspberries in the neighbourhood of your 
garden, we would recommend you to destroy them 
completely, by cutting them down, old and young, 
so as to destroy any larvae that may be in them, and 
to prevent their breeding there. Unless this is done 
your cultivated specimens will be liable to infesta¬ 
tion from thence every year. It will require con¬ 
siderable perseverance to get rid of the pest. You 
might even make a fresh plantation with young 
canes obtained from another source where the 
canes are clean, planting them in a different part of 
the garden. This latter plan is of course an extreme 
measure. 
Lily of the Yalley.— Omega : This will grow in 
almost any situation and aspect, but it succeeds 
best where it can get shade and plenty of moisture, 
not, however, a saturated soil, but such as might 
be found in some woods under the slight shade of 
trees. Therefore, if you can find a spot in your 
garden that is slightly shaded and moist, that is 
what you should select. Avoid a south aspect 
near houses or walls. An open situation would be 
better than that. If the soil is heavy use plenty 
| of leaf soil or old forcing bed manure. Planting 
should be done about the end of March, before 
growth commences. 
Yines. — Omega : The present is a very good time 
to plant Vines in an outside border. We take it 
for granted that the plants are now growing in 
pots, and that the rods will be inside the vinery. 
If you perform the operation properly, this is the 
best time for outdoor planting. Keep the atmosphere 
of the house moist till the Vine roots have taken 
fresh hold. 
Pear Leaves Blistered. — M. M'Laren: All the 
leaves you sent were affected with the Gall Mites of 
the Pear (Phytoptus Pyri). None of the mites ever 
have wings at any stage of their existence, but when 
once they attack a tree it is most difficult to get rid 
of them. Sometimes a tree may continue in fairly 
good health for many years, when the mite does not 
make rapid headway ; at other times it succumbs 
rapidly, when there is no hope of saving it. There 
was no evidence of the blister caused by the Pear 
Leaf Blister Moth (Tinea Clerckella), the blisters in 
that case being large and different in appearance. 
On one leaf we found a lew scales of the Ptar Oyster 
Scale (Diaspis ostreaeformis). If they are only in 
limited numbers you could easily sponge them off 
the young trees. The Phytoptus is more difficult to 
deal with. The only time you can make sure of 
getting at the mites is when the leaves newly expand. 
Some time after that they come out of the leaves by 
a little hole on the under side, and find their way 
into the young buds, where they take up their 
quarters, and penetrate the leaves before they ex¬ 
pand Entomologists have not yet been able to tell 
us when they quit the old leaves; probably they do 
it at various times, so that any application of in¬ 
secticide would have to be applied frequently, and 
then might fail to have any effect upon the mite. 
You will have to exercise patience, and not destroy 
valuable trees, but that is ultimately all that the 
authorities recommend. The mites must breed in 
spring, for the eggs are laid inside the blister. 
Polyanthus Refusing to Bloom.— M. M'Laren : 
The cause of seedlings refusing to bloom for six or 
seven years is very interesting. We have noted 
s imething similar amoDgst other plants, including 
Violas, and conclude that there is constitutional 
weakness or a tendency to malformation, as in the 
case of your plants, which prevents them from 
flowering. Such plants can never be serviceable in 
a garden. 
Names of Plants.— W. J. G : i. Laelia pur- 
purata var., in poor condition ; 2, Fabiana imbricata. 
It is hardy in the more favoured parts of the country, 
particularly near the sea coasts, but gets killed in 
severe winters.— Jas. Sivewright: Epidendrum atro- 
purpureum roseum ; 2, Aspasia sp. (see next 
week).— E. Ballard: i, Orchis Morio; 2. Cedrus 
Deodara ; 3, Buddleia globosa.— W. P.: 1. Staphylea 
pinnata; 2, Acer circinatum var.; 3, Thermopsis 
montana ; 4, Erigeron philadelphicus ; 5, Anchusa 
sempervirens ; 6, Geranium sylvaticum.— William 
Mclver: 1, Cypripedium hirsutissimum ; 2, A hybrid 
Rhododendron which we may be able to name later 
on when in bloom here ; yours evidently has been 
grown under glass.— J. B. : 1, Brassia verrucosa ; 2, 
Oncidium flexuosum; 3, Maxillaria tenuifolia.— 
A.T. : 1, Primula involucrata ; 2, Paeonia tenuifolia ; 
3, Aesculus rubicunda.— Omega : The Germander 
Speedwell (Veronica Chamaedrys). 
Communications Received.— John Jackson.—A.P. 
—W. B. G — C. B G.—W. H. Y —S. G.-G. W. C. 
—J. M.—T. S. Dymond.—Tomatos.—P. Weathers. 
—Sutton & Sons.—Toogood & Sons.—J. L.—A. C. 
—T. W.—M. Temple.—R. H. 
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