June 25, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
683 
Hydrangeas, Myrtles, bulbs and tubers, Primulas, 
Honeysuckles, Auriculas, Cypripediums, &c. Various 
illustrations are scattered through the book, and the 
type is clear and easy to read. 
Toogood’s Calendar of Sowings and Plantings in 
the Flower and Vegetable Gardens. By E. 
Kemp Toogood, F.R.H.S. Toogood & Sons, 
Southampton, and William Holmes, Ulverston, 
1898. Price 6d. 
The Calendar is in paper covers, and runs to 104 
pages. It is in two parts, the first being devoted en¬ 
tirely to the vegetable garden, and the second to the 
flower garden. Some general information is given 
at the beginning of each month, below which are 
tabulated lists of the things to be sown or planted 
during the respective periods. The months during 
which each subject should be fit for use, in the case 
of vegetables, are named in the same lines as the 
plants to which they refer, and on the right hand 
side of the page. Sowings and plantings of 
vegetables are given for every month of the year, but 
this includes forcing, and everything, or nearly so, 
for October, November, and December has to be 
sown or planted in heat or under the protection of 
frames. A few things, however, are recommended 
for planting or sowing on warm, sheltered borders, 
assuming, of course, that the respective periods of 
winter are open, and the ground is in suitable condi¬ 
tion. Seakale seeds sown in April are said to become 
fit for use in the third or fourth year, but surely this 
statement ought to be brought up to date, for we 
hear of gardeners discussing the question of getting 
the crowns fit for forcing in much shorter time, and 
roots in the autumn of the first year. The Calendar 
says the second or third year for plants raised from 
roots. In the case of flowers they are grouped 
according as they are to be sown on hotbeds or in 
flames on the open border, and bulbs, corms, &c. 
for planting. 
The Culture of Vegetables for Prizes, Pleasure, 
and Profit. By E. Kemp Toogood, F.R.H.S. 
Printed in 1898 by Toogood & Sons, Southamp¬ 
ton, and William Holmes, Ulverston, Price 6d. 
This is a second and revised edition of a book of 129 
pages, concerning which we made some remarks last 
year. It deals with the subject in a practical manner, 
and finishes up by giving a calendar of operations for 
every month of the year. The soil is the first subject 
handled, several of the more common kinds being 
taken up, and dealt with concisely as far as space 
will permit. Directions are given for the improve¬ 
ment of sandy, limestone, clay and damp soils 
respectively. A sandy soil is to be ameliorated by 
the addition of stable manure, vegetable refuse, 
powdered clay, mud from ponds, manures from pig- 
styes, cowsheds, &c. The reasons for the application 
of these things are clearly stated. In like manner 
the antidotes for the deficiencies of limestone and 
clay soils are set forth, with the correctives necessary. 
The short chapter on soil-working shows that the 
author realises the value of digging and trenching, 
laying proper stress on the latter as a means of 
increasing not only the staple but the depth of the soil, 
and giving an increased root run, with a correspond¬ 
ingly deep: r area for the collection of plant food by the 
root system. We have seen a comparatively worth¬ 
less kitchen garden, having a subsoil of pure sand 
often within a foot or ten inches of the surface, com¬ 
pletely renovated and rendered highly fertile by 
trenching and the removal of some of the sand, 
while manure and fresh soil were added. Trenching 
every second year, and gradually incorporating the 
upper with the subsoil, and liberal manuring from the 
stables did the rest. The importance of trenching 
gardens, whether by the amateur or professional 
gardener, cannot bo too much emphasised. A plan 
for the amelioration of bad subsoils here given, 
elucidates and simplifies the work. 
This is followed by the theory and practice of 
rotation of crops, a matter which is too frequently 
disregarded, with bad results, as m ; ght be expected. 
Reasons for the practice include not only the 
exhaustion of certain constituents of the soil, by 
particular crops, but also the question of the insect 
enemies and fungoid diseases that attack plants to 
such an ex'ent in old garden soils that are too 
frequently cropped with the same kinds of plants. 
Observation of the rules of rotation of crops should 
go hand in hand with trenching, which does much to 
clear a soil not only of such special enemies as 
clubbing and Gall-root Weevils, but general pests 
like slugs, the chrysalis stage of various moths and 
wireworms which infest kitchen and flower garden 
crops. A chapter is given to garden pests, of which 
the more common are passed under review. 
A valuable addition to the second edition of the 
book is a table showing the comparative value of 
farmyard and artificial manures in general com¬ 
merce. The number of pounds of the principal and 
most valuable elements of plant food in a ton of each 
kind mentioned lays before the reader what he 
applies to the soil by using any given sort. Several 
other kinds are mentioned in the notes that follow 
the table, but we think sawdust as a manure might 
have been omitted. Green-manuring is not so often 
employed by gardeners as it might be. Forcing is 
briefly dealt with, after which all the more important 
vegetables receive special treatment, according to 
their respective requirements. Strawberries and 
Tomatos are associated with the vegetables. 
— 
BUDDLEIA GLOBOSA. 
This handsome Chilian shrub, or tree, is flowering 
freely this year owing, no doubt, to the mildness of 
the past winter. In the southern and western 
counties it is frequently seen in good condition, but 
round about the metropolis, it is somewhat of a rara 
avis, inasmuch as it is only half hardy, and therefore 
liable to be destroyed during severe weather. But 
for this fact it would, doubtless, be more in evidence, 
as, under favourable conditions, its rich, orange- 
yellow, globular flower-heads—which are unique in 
their way—produce a very fine effect. Buddleia 
globosa is often trained to walls, where it possesses 
a stiff and ungraceful habit , but planted out and 
treated as a shrub, in a free and easy manner, with a 
background of other shrubs and trees, it is, in such a 
season as the present, an object of great beauty. Mr. 
D. Cooper, of Hanger Hill House Gardens, Ealing, 
W., has so disposed it, the aspect being due south. 
In fact, he has two quite respectable trees—about 
ten feet high by six feet through—which were in 
their cutting-pots four or five years ago. The pro¬ 
gress they have since made is due, in large measure 
to the mild character of the winters of 1896-7 and 
1897-8. At any rate this subject is worth a trial, if 
only for the sake of its remarkably distinct and 
beautiful flowers.— C. B. G., Acton, W. 
R. H. S. EXAMINATION IN HORTI¬ 
CULTURE. 
{Concluded from p. 668.) 
No. of Marks 
gained 
17. Mr. Robt. Perry, Milburn Gardens, Esher 125 
17. Mr. J. Wilson, Castle Street, Wallingford 125 
20. Mr. J. Hubband, The Gardens, Mount- 
field, Hernhill, near Faversham.. 120 
2C. Mr. G. Linter, 3, East Street, Ventnor, 
Isle of Wight . .. 120 
20. Mr. J. B. Pratt, Technical Laboratories, 
Chelmsfcrd. .. .. 120 
20. Mr. W. G. Taylor, Technical Laboratories, 
Chelmsford .120 
20. Mr. W. H. Wield, Burches Lodge, 
Kingston Hill .120 
20. Mr. S. Wren, Technical Laboratories, 
Chelmsford .. .. .. .. 120 
26. Mr. John Atkins, Rose Cottage, High 
Street, Caterham .. .. .. .. 115 
26. Mr. Samuel E. Brown, Oak Road, Cater¬ 
ham .. .. .. .. .. .. 115 
26. Mr. J. Dent, Howberry Park. Crowmarsh 
Gifford, Wallingford : .. .. 115 
29. Mr. J. Wichelo, St. Mary's Street, 
Wallingford.no 
30. Mr. J. H. Brand, Esseudene Cottages, 
Caterham .. ., ..105 
30. Mr. G. Hunter, Gosford Gardens, Long- 
niddry, N.B. .105 
30. Mr. G. Braddy, Technical Laboratories, 
Chelmsford.. .105 
30. Mr. H. G. Chick, Moray Villa, Elm 
Grove, Caterham.105 
34. Mr. J. Fudge, Horticultural School, 
Holmes Chapel .. .. .. .. 100 
34. Mr. C. Rymes, 28, Cottage Grove, Surbi¬ 
ton .. .. .. .. .. .. 100 
34. Mr. A. Wilkins, Martyr Worthy, near 
Winchester. 100 
QUESTIONS. 
Eight questions only to be answered : four from division A 
and four from Divivion B. 
DIVISION A. 
Elementary Principles. 
1. Describe the methods of propagation of different 
weeds ; explain why Groundsel and Chickweed and 
the large-whiteflowered Convolvulus are particularly 
troublesome. What are the best means of exter¬ 
minating these plants ? 
2. Point out the importance to the plants of a good 
circulation of air in a hot-house, and the conse¬ 
quences of a stagnant condition of the atmosphere 
within it. 
3. Describe the different functions of leaves, and 
the best way to secure their due performance. 
4. What are the component parts of a flower, and 
of what use are they respectively to the plant ? 
5. What external conditions are favourable for 
inducing variations to appear in cultivated plants; 
and how would you proceed in order to fix any varia¬ 
tion ? 
6. What parts of the flower are retained and 
altered iu forming the fruit of the Peach, Melon, 
Mulberry, Fir-cone, and Pineapple ? 
7. To what Natural Orders do the following trees 
belong Tulip tree, Maple, Apricot, Ash, Labur¬ 
num, Guelder-rose, Horse-chestnut, Horn-beam, 
Thuia, and Evergreen Oak ? Which are natives of 
this country ? 
8. Describe the structure of the bulb of the White 
Lily, the corm of Gladiolus, the creeping-stem of 
Couch-grass, the rhizome of the Flag, and the tuber 
of the Potato ; and explain their uses to the plants. 
DIVISION B. 
Practice. 
9. Describe landscape gardening as an art. 
10. Describe the formation of a garden lawn, and 
the details of the work necessary to keep it in condi¬ 
tion during the year. 
11. What are the preliminary operations necessary 
to the laying-out of a garden for fruit and vegetable 
culture ? Describe the arrangement of the fruit 
trees, and the method of planting them. 
12. A garden having four walls facing north, south, 
east, and west, what varieties of fruit trees should 
be planted on each ? Describe their first year's 
pruning and training. 
13. Give full details of the propagation and culture 
of Grape Vines and Fig trees in pots. 
14. Describe the culture of Seakale, Asparagus, 
and French Beans; and the best method of forcing 
them. 
15. What are the best manures for kitchen and 
fruit gardens ? How ought they to be applied, and 
when ? 
T.6. Describe the propagation and culture of Roses 
and Carnations inteaded to be cultivated under 
glass. 
-- 
NOTES ON PARIS GARDENING * 
Street Trees. 
Paris is said to be the gayest city in the world. 
Whether it was designated such from a social or 
floral point of view I do not know, nor care to ask. 
Be that as it may, however, on the occasion of my 
visit, from the wealth of flowers that I saw, both in 
public and private gardens, it struck me as being 
a very gay city in that respect, although I was in¬ 
formed it was not then the gayest season, socially 
speaking. 
Having read and heard so much about the French 
system of tree planting in their boulevards, and this 
being the first object of interest to meet my view, I 
was naturally anxious to gratify my curiosity in a 
somewhat larger sense, and see for myself and com¬ 
pare with street planting that has come under my 
notice at home, so as to form a humble opinion of 
my own. Now the opinion I arrived at is, if 
general appearance is any criterion, that the French 
authorities pay a great deal more attention to these 
mat ters than the English public bodies,or whoever have 
the management of such work, and that the trees are 
planted and pruned on a more practical and scientific 
principle than any I have seen at home, our neigh¬ 
bourhood not excepted. For instance, trees that are 
planted in the public thoroughfares in Paris are not 
covered to within a few inches of the stem with 
* A paper read by Mr. D. Cooper, Hanger Hill House 
Gardens, Ealing, W., before the Ealing Gardeners’ Soolety. 
