August 6, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
775 
bright green leaves of this Bamboo are much the 
broader at the base, and striped with white lines. 
The stems are green on one side and variegated with 
pink, purple and yellow on the other. Award of 
Merit. Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Ltd. 
Phyllostachys fulva. —The leaves of this new 
Bamboo are lanceolate, 3 in. to 6 in. long, dark green 
above, glaucous beneath and bearded at the top of 
the sheaths. The stems are slender, and green, 
giving oft a few spreading branches, at least in the 
earlier stages of growth. Award of Merit. A. B. 
Freeman-Mitford, Esq., C.B. (gardener, Mr. John 
Garrett). 
Arundinaria aristata. —The round stems, carry¬ 
ing the persistent sheaths at the nodes must help 
separate this Bamboo from that previously named. 
The lanceolate, finger-like leaves are 3 in. to 7 in. 
long, bright glaucous green above, and glaucous 
beneath ; their sheaths are slightly bearded. The 
main stems are yellow and bear ascending branches 
that ultimately become very numerous. It is new. 
Award of Merit. A. B. Freeman-Mitford, Esq., 
C.B. 
Arundinaria Veitchi. —The young foliage of this 
Bamboo is very handsome, the species being one of 
the dwarfest of the broad leaved types, and therefore 
admirably adapted for conservatory work. It is also 
hardy, and has oblong, glaucous-green leaves. Award 
of Merit. A. B. Freeman-Mitford, Esq., C.B., and 
Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Limited. 
Arundinaria metallica. —The specimen of this 
Bamboo shown was 2$ ft. high. The leaves are 
oblong, 6 in. to 10 in. long, and ii in. to 2$ in wide, 
deep green, with a pale midrib and prominent longi¬ 
tudinal veins, and glaucous beneath. At present it 
seems allied to B. palmata and B. tessellata, and if 
perfectly hardy will be a fine thing. Award of 
Merit. A. B. Freeman-Mitford, Esq., C.B. 
Nymphaea odorata rosacea. —The flowers of this 
Water Lily are of great size, of a charming rosy- 
pink, darker in the bud stage, and fading from blush 
to white in the centre when open. The petals are 
very numerous, and the anthers golden-yellow. It 
is altogether a finer thing than N. alba rosea, with 
which it may be compared. First-class Certificate. 
Leopold de Rothschild, Esq. (gardener, Mr. J. 
Hudson), Gunnersbury House, Acton. 
Nymphaea gloriosa. —The broad, outer petals of 
this garden hybrid are rosy, while the central petals 
deepen to a carmine-rose. The sepals are variegated 
with rose and green externally. When fully ex¬ 
panded the flowers are massive and handsome. 
First-class Certificate. Leopold de Rothschild, 
Esq. 
Carnation Isinglass. —The flowers of this border 
variety are fiery crimson, with broad petals, slightly 
toothed at the edges, and highly fragrant, so that 
they resemble those of a glorified Uriah Pike. It 
was raised by Mr. C. J. Salter, gardener to T. B. 
Haywood, Esq , Woodhatch Lodge, Reigate. Awsrrd 
of Merit. 
Carnation Lady Sophie. —This perpetual flower¬ 
ing variety has large, rich salmon-rose flowers, with 
broad rounded petals and does not split the calyx. 
Award of Merit. Mr. E. Tapper, The Gardens, 
Sundridge Park, Kent. 
Buddleia variabilis. —The leaves of this hardy 
shrub are lanceolate, deep green above, and silvery 
beneath. The flowers are small and lilac, with an 
oraDge eye and produced in cymose clusters, covering 
12 in. to 16 in. of the apex of the shoots. The shrub 
comes from Thibet. Award of Merit. Messrs. 
William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross. 
Rose Souvenir de Mme Levet.— This is a Tea 
Rose of dwarf habit, bearing corymbose clusters of 
rich apricot flowers. The buds are conical, and 
open in the centre when fully expended. Award of 
Merit. Messrs. Wm. Paul & Son. 
Rose Charlotte Gillemot. —The flowers of this 
hybrid Tea are of large size and pure white, though 
the exterior of the young buds are tinted with red. 
Award of Merit. Messrs Wm. Paul & Son. 
Fruit and Vegetable Committee. 
Raspberry Golden Queen. —The fruits of this 
new variety are of huge size, rich amber-yellow and 
fine flavour. It was raised from the well-known 
Raspberry Superlative crossed with Rubus laciniatus, 
and is as productive as the former. The prolific 
character of the plant, and the fine appearance of 
the fruit will place this in the front rank of yellow 
Raspberries. Award of Merit. Messrs. J. Veitch & 
Sons, Ltd. 
Pea Continuity. —The pods of this variety are 
3 in. to 4 in. long, very broad, flattened, and of a light 
glaucous green. Each pod contains six to eight 
seeds of huge size, and fine flavour. This, as well as 
the five that follow, have been tried at Chiswick. 
Award of Merit. Messrs. Sutton & Sons, Reading. 
Pea Mansfield Show. —The slightly curved pods 
are 3 in. to 5 in long, dark, glaucous green, very full, 
with seeds of a rich green, and well flavoured. Award 
of Merit. Messrs. Wright Brothers. 
Pea Prior. —This is a heavy bearer with straight, 
thick, but well filled pods, 3 in. to 5 in. long, and con¬ 
taining six to seven huge seeds. Award of Merit. 
Mr. Henry Eckford, Wem, Shropshire. 
Pea The Bruce. — The nearly straight, light 
glaucous green pods are very full, and contain seven 
to nine seeds of good flavour. It has been tried for 
some years and is a prolific bearer. Award of Merit. 
Mr. Henry Eckford. 
Pea Saccharine. —The straight, dark green pods 
are 3 in. to 5 in. long, and well filled with eight large 
seeds of fine appearance. Award of Merit. Mr. 
Sim, Fyvie, Aberdeenshire. 
Pea Honeydew. —Here the pods are flattened, 
light glaucous green, and contain eight to nine seeds 
of great size and rich flavour. All of the above were 
selected at Chiswick for free bearing, as well as for 
the fine, well filled pods and flavour of the seeds. 
Award of Merit, Mr. Sim. 
- »!<- - 
Kitcften Garden Calendar. 
The Week’s Work. —In the southern districts 
most of the early Potatos will be sufficiently ripe for 
lifting. Where this is the case no time should be 
lost in getting them taken up. The larger ones 
ought not to be exposed to the sun longer than can be 
avoided, as this would cause the skins to become 
discoloured. Those intended for seed should be 
spread out, either in an open shed or on a hard path, 
until they are quite green. They should then be 
stored thinly in a cool, airy place. Sets so treated 
will not commence to grow so soon another season 
as those put away without hardening. 
Turnips are an important winter crop, small, 
sweet roots of which are far more appreciated than 
those which have become overgrown and tough. A 
goodly patch should therefore be sown; and the 
roots may occupy the ground from which the early 
Potatos were lifted. If the soil is moist the seed 
will readily germinate at this time of the year, but if 
left loose and dry the plants will come up very 
irregularly. For this reason the soil should be made 
as fine as possible, and well watered previous to 
sowing. Sow thinly in drills about 18 in. apart, to 
prevent the foliage from becoming overcrowded, which 
it will do should the autumn be warm and moist; 
when, instead of nice shaped, close grained, sweet 
bulbs there will be a superabundance of foliage with 
coarse, ill-shaped roots, which will not withstand the 
severity of our winter should it prove unusually 
hard. 
Cabbage. —The last sowing of these should now 
be made, selecting some of the larger growing kinds, 
such as Enfield Market. Plants from the former 
sowings will soon be large enough for transplanting. 
They should not be left in the seed bed any longer 
than can possibly be avoided, for the more sturdily 
they are grown the finer the results. Tripoli Onions 
may now be sown. In cold districts choose a shel¬ 
tered position, but as the plants, when properly 
grown, are usually hardy there is no necessity for 
any protection. We prefer getting them large 
enough to transplant in October, as, by so doing, the 
roots will take hold of the soil before frost sets in, 
and thus be the better able to withstand the winter. 
For early use there is no variety equal to the Queen, 
as this turns in so quickly. 
General work. —At this time of the year, when 
there is so much watering, fruit gathering and other 
things requiring attention, many important items 
are apt to get neglected. It is well, therefore, to 
take stock, as it were, and see what will be required 
for winter and early spring before the season gets 
too far advanced; and should there be any doubt as 
to the quantity of any crop not being sufficient, see 
that more is planted. Weeds at this time of the 
year usually grow apace ; the soil being warm, flower 
stems soon appear, and a crop of seed is the result 
before one has time to realise they are there. When 
weeds reach this stage they should be pulled up and 
burnt, to prevent the seed from being scattered over 
other parts of the garden. Where it is possible to 
dig the ground, all such rubbish may be turned 
under out of the way, but it is not always 
possible to do this, therefore burning is the next best 
remedy. Make another sowing of Radishes and 
other small salads, so as to keep up a constant 
supply .—Kitchen Gardener. 
The thunderstorms that have visited us during the 
past week have helped considerably, but they have 
not been nearly sufficient, for the ground had got 
very dry. The watering of such trees and shrubs, 
therefore, as are likely to need water, owing to their 
not having had sufficient time since they were 
planted to strike deep root, must be carried on as 
vigorously as ever. 
The grass has revived wonderfully since the rain, 
and the same maybe said of bedding plants,for they, 
at least, had a good soaking. Growth has been 
rather slow amongst the latter up to the present 
time, and this has given opportunity for keeping 
both beds and borders free from weeds; indeed, the 
season so far has been an exceptionally favourable 
one in this respect. 
Carnations. —Although the flowers are consider¬ 
ably later than usual, owing to the cold spring and 
early part of the summer, it will not do to defer 
layering on that account, for if this work is not com¬ 
pleted by at least the end of the first week in 
August, the layers have a poor chance of becoming 
well rooted by autumn. If the operation of layering 
is entrusted to the younger hands it will be necessary 
to see that their knives are sharp and not too thick 
in the blades; also that the point of the layer is 
inserted in the ground in such a way that there is no 
possibility of the tongue closing, when a union will 
be formed with the other part of the stem, and the 
required roots will not be emitted. It is to these 
two causes, ragged cutting and closing of the tongue, 
that a very large percentage of the losses of layers 
are due. Pegs in sufficient quantity should have 
been got ready last winter during wet weather, and 
thus no time need now be lost in making them. 
After the layers are all neatly pegged down round 
the central stem of the parent plants give a gcod 
watering with clear water, and follow this up by 
subsequent waterings should occasion demand it. 
Cut Carnations. —Where large quantities of 
Carnations are grown for cut flowers they are usually 
of the older varieties, many of which are addicted 
more or less to “ pod bursting.” Before using these 
in decorations, therefore, it will be advisable to keep 
the petals of the flowers together by slipping a small 
elastic ring over the calyx. These elastic rings can 
be purchased in quantities very cheaply at the 
sundriesman’s. The practice of putting the bands 
upon the buds as they open upon the plants should 
not be indiscriminately indulged in, for many mal¬ 
formed flowers are the result of undue compression 
of the half-grown petals. 
Budding of Briers. —Proceed with the budding 
of Briers as quickly as possible, so as to get the 
whole lot out of hand at an early date. If the bark 
will not lift readily do not attempt to force it, tor to 
do so is only to court failure, but give the Briers a 
good soaking of water overnight. If this does not 
cause the bark to lift easier follow it up with another 
watering the next evening, and then every¬ 
thing will almost surely be well. In selecting the 
buds take plump dormant buds, borne by firm shoots, 
those that have borne flowers being preferable. A 
great deal depends upon this selection of buds, and 
they should never be taken from rank sappy wood. 
Hollyhocks. —The present occasion is favourable 
for the propagation, by eyes, of desirable varieties. 
The smaller side shoots just where they are getting 
firm should be cut up, a small heel of the wood, 
together with a leaf stalk being left attached to each 
eye. 
The stalk is not only convenient for handling but 
is also the natural guardian of the bud in its axil. 
Insert these eyes in a bed of sandy soil in a cold 
frame. Keep the latter close, and shaded during the 
day, and sprinkle occasionally by means of a rose 
can or a fine spray from a syringe.— A. S. G. 
