September 24, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
65 
impressed with their beauty and effectiveness. 
Passing from Hyde Park Corner northwards we find 
one pretty, oblong bed is filled with the crimson F. 
Marinka, the plants being over 4 ft. in height, inter¬ 
spersed with F. gracilis variegata, the small white 
and green leaves of which form a cbarmiDg contrast. 
The space beneath these is filled with Montbretias 
and Coreopses, the edging being of Saxifraga Stans- 
fieldii and Tagetes pumila. 
Next to this Hydrangea paniculata grandifiora, 
mixed with standard scarlet Fuchsias, has been 
giviDg a capital account of itself. An edging is fur¬ 
nished by alternative bands of Alternanthera aurea 
and A. amoena, the yellow and crimson forming a 
broad enclosing band. A good instance of how 
several subjects are brought into association with 
each other so as to render the total effect more com¬ 
plete, as well as more lasting, is furnished by a bed, 
1 which has for groundwork the dwarf, free-flowering 
Koniga maritima. Dotted about amongst this are 
tuberous Begonias, and these in their turn are over¬ 
topped by the elegant Nierembergia gracilis, with its 
relatively large, French white flowers. The edging 
is formed of the lavender-blue Viola Bessie Clark. 
Erythrina crista-galli is well deserving of special 
mention, for we have never seen such dwarf plants 
(they are not more than 2 ft. high), flower so freely. 
The secret, if secret there be, of getting them to 
bloom thus iu the dwarf state would be well worth 
knowing. With the Erythrinas is mixed Salpiglossis 
sinuata in a variety of colours, and Viola Bluebell is 
utilised as an edging. 
Another very pretty combination is formed by a 
groundwork of Alternanthera major, dotted with 
tuberous Begonias and Coreopsis atrosanguinea, and 
edged with the lavender-hued Viola Bessie Clark. 
Lilium speciosum and crimson and yellow Ceiosias, 
with an edging of Alternanthera magnifica, in which 
is dotted at intervals plants of the handsome and 
distinct Solanum pyracanthum about a foot high, 
form another very rich and effective combination. 
The rather uncommon Araucaria Bidwillii shows up 
to great advantage in round beds with an edging of 
Fuchsia Meteor pegged closely down to the ground. 
Close by here are to baseen a number of standard, 
scented Pelargoniums, their bases, where they are 
destitute of foliage, being enlivened with the pretty 
Thunbergia alata. 
After the Stanhope Gate is passed, we find the 
flower garden broadens out, a series of beds still 
continuing on the Park Lane side right of the walk, 
whilst on the other side of this walk is a large rail 
enclosed area, in which the largest beds are to be 
found. In this latter space the beds are arranged 
in duplicate, one row facing the east, and the other 
the west. 
The ' mixed ' beds most took our fancy in this 
section. The idea, in planning these, has evidently 
been to give as much of variety in as little space as 
possible, and the results are certainly good. We 
find, therefore, Fuchsias, zonal and Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums, Amaranthus melancholicus ruber, peren¬ 
nial Asters, Cannas, Bougainvillea glabra, Violas, 
early-flowering Chrysanthemums, Calceolarias, and 
a host of other subjects mingling their charms in 
most attractive fashion. There is a number of these 
beds in different parts of the park, and in every case 
they are showy and well furnished. 
Iresine Lindeni and I. brilliantissima are 
commonly met with in gardens, but not as they are 
grown in Hyde Park, for they have been induced to 
form tall graceful cones of rich purple foliage that 
take the eye immensely. 
Lobelia cardinalis rising out of a groundwork of 
the white Viola Shylock gives another very happy 
colour contrast. 
Carpet bedding is not rigidly upheld here in its 
old, familiar style, but instead a sort of compromise 
has been effected, whereby the plants, although still 
planted, and kept within well defined areas, are 
allowed to display more of their individuality than 
was possible under the old system. One bed of this 
kind is filled with Alternantheras of various colours, 
planted so as to form mounds of different heights. 
Carexbrunnea is tastefully employed as a " dot ” sub¬ 
ject, and the edging is of Antennaria tomentosa and 
Sempervivum tabulaeforme. Both Chamaepuce dia- 
cantha, and the old favourite, Cineraria maritima, are 
also much employed for "dot” work in various 
places. 
The irregularly outlined border which occupies 
the crest of the slope in the Bayswater sweep, facing 
south, has been planted with a mixture of subjects. 
Amongst other things blue Ageratums are excep¬ 
tionally bright, whilst we get a corresponding degree 
of stateliness in some giant Castor-oil plants. Pent- 
stemons, Antirrhinums, and Chrysanthemums are 
some of the showiest of the floral element here. 
Cannas have not been utilised to such an extent as 
we should have expected. The greatest number is 
to be seen in the sunk, sub-tropical garden on the 
western side of the carriage drive, and about half 
way between the Marble Arch and Hyde Park Corner. 
Here they have been associated with Dahlias with 
very happy results. 
- < 1 -- 
Tlie Orchid B rowe r’s calendar. 
General Work in the Houses. —With the 
approach of autumn tints on outside things we are 
forcibly reminded that the dull weather is fast 
coming on us. It therefore behoves us to give all the 
plants under our charge every opportunity to ripen 
up their new growth, so as to enable them to pass 
through the winter months without much harm. 
With that end in view we have been going over the 
stock of Cattleya Trianaei, and T. Mendelii, putting a 
neat stake where required, and catching the new 
growths up to it with a bit of raffia, and giving them 
a clean-up. The plants are then staged to face the 
light and sufficiently elevated so that air can play 
about them to harden the tissues and prepare them 
for the work in store for them in carrying a crop of 
flowers later on. It is really surprising what shifting 
about and a little touching up will do for them. The 
moss, too, in some cases, may have gone a bit wrong. 
This can be easily renewed without seriously inter¬ 
fering with the roots—it gives a better appearance 
besides inducing root action. 
Laelia anceps. —The spikes of this free-flowering 
species are getting a good length and will be all the 
better for having a neat stake put to them. One of 
the best stakes for this purpose is the long Apple 
shoots which are cut off at the summer pruning, 
and being pliable and of nearly the same colour as 
the scapes they are not so unsightly. 
Cattleya dowiana. —The season has been particu¬ 
larly favourable to the requirements of this gorgeous 
Cattleya, as far as making fine growths is concerned, 
but judging by our own they are not going to flower 
as well as expected. They have “ sheathed " and 
are " sheathing ” up well, but are slow to push their 
spikes. The free flowering variety C. d. aurea is cer¬ 
tainly a little more considerate, but not what one 
might expect. We shall encourage ours by placing 
them where they can get as much light and heat as 
possible, without unduly forcing them by fire-heat. 
The Weather. —On Saturday, everyone you met 
was complaining of the heat; on Sunday it was 
cooler, and lo ! this morning (Monday) a white frost. 
It is such changes as these that makes one look out. 
Up till the present time our Odontoglossums have, 
of course, been without fire-heat; but this morning, 
on going into the house, it struck cold and the 
atmosphere appeared overcharged with moisture; 
so much so, that the fire was immediately lighted to 
dispel it. Odontoglossums enjoy moisture, but it 
must not be of the cold and clammy nature, this 
being, we believe, the chief cause of the tips of the 
foliage going off. When this occurs the plants are 
most likely kept too wet at the roots, or the ventila¬ 
tion is bad. O. Rossii is very susceptible to this 
disease, especially where the houses are badly 
ventilated. 
We like to see the moisture on the foliage in the 
morning, but if the structure is so placed that they 
do not dry up quickly in the morning, some means as 
suggested above should be adopted to secure this.— 
C. 
Vineries from which all the fruit has been 
gathered should be thrown as widely open as possi¬ 
ble so as to give every facility for the ripening of the 
wood. If the border has been allowed to become 
dry during the time that the Grapes were hanging 
see that it is reduced to a proper state of moisture as 
soon as may be. It is a great mistake, however, to 
allow borders of this kind to become dust dry, for not 
only do many of the roots perish as an immediate 
consequence, but it becomes a matter of considerable 
difficulty to get the soil properly moist again. Ripen¬ 
ing of the wood is one thing, and drying it up is 
another. The latter is too frequently done under the 
mistaken idea that the former consideration is being 
carried into effect. 
It is important that the leaves should be got off the 
Vines at as early a date as is possible without un¬ 
duly forcing them, tor it is to the vineries that we 
look for protection for the hordes of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums now in the open. 
Pot Vines for Forcing. —Those canes which are 
intended for forcing next year should be exposed to 
all the sunshine that comes, and this exposure is 
best effected by training the canes upon a wooden or 
wire trellis, the former preferably. Be careful not to 
excite them with manure water, or harm will be 
done to the now dormant buds, which must be kept 
dormant until the plants are safely ensconced in the 
forcing pit. 
Ripening Grapes. —Where black Alicante, Mus¬ 
cat of Alexandria, Lady Downe's Seedling and other 
varieties are finishing off a sharp look-out must be 
kept upon the attacks of wasps, small birds, and flies, 
all of which are very destructive where ripe or ripen¬ 
ing fruit is concerned. Specially good bunches that 
are intended for exhibition or other particular use it 
will be well to enclose in light muslin bags for the 
sake of safety. Mealy bug, too, must be carefully 
watched, and not allowed to gain a footing in the 
bunches. Knock off all liquid manure as soon as the 
berries are approaching ripeness, but keep up the 
supplies of clear water. When watering has to be 
done let it be done in the morning, and see that 
plenty of ventilation is given to dry up the super¬ 
fluous moisture before nightfall. Where the berries 
of certain varieties are given to cracking, allow a 
moderate extension of the laterals as a sort of safety 
valve to take off some of the flow of sap. 
Peaches. — Houses from which the fruit has been 
gathered should begone over,and the shoots that have 
borne the fruit and are not wanted to carry the 
succession shoots or extend the spread of the tree, 
cut clean out. This not only husbands the energies 
of the trees but gives the succession shoots a greater 
supply of light and air, both of which are important 
factors in the procuring of sound, well-ripened wood. 
See that the borders are properly soaked—clear 
water will be all that is required now. Let the 
syringe be started vigorously to work morning and 
afternoon, in order to induce the foliage to perform 
its office thoroughly. If red spider has gained a foot¬ 
ing, as it may well have done in spite of precautions, 
it will be a good plan to get the garden engine in the 
houses and give the trees a good washing. 
Peaches in Pots that have not been potted for 
some years past and are no n in need of fresh soil, 
should be put in hand at once ; otherwise they will 
not have a chance to make new roots before the 
winter sets in. The soil should consist of good 
mellow loam, to which may be added a sprinkling of 
i in. crushed bones, and a liberal addition of old 
mortar rubbish, which should be broken up rather 
finely so as to produce the same mechanical effect as 
sand. Use only stout, sound pots. To employ 
cracked ones is only to court disaster, and perhaps 
at a critical time. If cracked pots have to be used 
they must be strengthened by wire rings. Pot 
pretty firmly and see that the soil is pushed well 
down round the sides. 
Melons. —The warm weather is distinctly in the 
favour of the later crops of Melons, which must be 
pushed on as fast as can be, in order that they may 
be ripened off before the sunlight has gone. Shut 
the pits up not later than 2.30 each afternoon so as 
to imprison plenty of sun heat, giving the plants a 
good syringiog at the same time. The temperature 
of the houses will probably rise to over go° Fahr., 
but this will not matter if the plants are fairly 
vigorous. The ripening of fruits that are just on the 
point of finishing may be expedited by cutting most 
of the haulm away, and allowing the soil to become 
quite dry. 
Cucumbers for Winter. — The plants that are 
intended for winter fruiting are just catching a good 
hold of the trellis, and will' thus have a good start. 
All male blooms should be picked off, as winter 
Cucumbers do not as a rule grow any too strongly. 
Where the plants are in pots, instead of being planted 
out, they should be plunged for about half their 
depth in a bed of soil,— A. S. G. 
