October 1, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
?1 
Cactus Dahlia Lucius. —For description see p. 
22. Award of Merit. Messrs. J. Burrell & Co., 
Howe House Nurseries, Cambridge. 
Cactus Dahlia Antelope.— For description see 
p. 22. Award of Merit. Messrs. Keynes, Williams 
& Co. 
Pompon Dahlia Iris. —The flowers in this case 
are very neat and of good form. The colour is rosy- 
salmon flushed with migenta. Award of Merit. 
Mr. Charles Turner, Slo iib. 
Pompon Dahlia Claribel.— For description see 
p. 23. Award of Merit. Mr. C. Turner. 
Pompon Dahlia Snowflake. —For description 
see p. 23. Award of Merit. Mr. M. V. Seale, The 
Vine Nursery, Sevenoaks, Kent. 
Pompon Dahlia Demon. —For description see p. 
39. Award of Merit, Mr. M. V. Seale. 
Pompon Dahlia Distinction. —For description 
see p. 39. Award of Merit. Mr. M. V. Seale. 
Single Dahlia Leslie Seale, —For description 
see p. 23. Award of Merit. Mr. M. V. Seale. 
Cactus Dahlia Ranji. —For description see p. 39. 
Award of Merit. Mr. G. Humphries, Kington 
Langley, Chippenham. 
Show Dahlia David Johnson. —For description 
see p. 22. Award of Merit. Mr. G. Humphries. 
Gynerium argenteum aureo-lineatis. —This is 
a very handsome, robust-growing, green and golden 
form of the Pampas Grass. The leaves are broad 
and of great substance, in this respect presenting 
some difference to those of the type. It is an ex¬ 
ceedingly showy plant for the garden, and as such 
cannot fail to become popular. Award of Merit. 
Messrs. Jas. Veitch & Sons, Ltd. 
Fruit Committee. 
Strawberry St. Joseph. —This is a perpetual 
fruiting Strawberry of great value. The fruits are 
large for this class of Strawberry, and possess an 
agreeable and brisk acidity. In shape they are 
conical, but broad in proportion to their length, thus 
presenting a great difference to the Alpine forms. 
The colour is dull scarlet. First-class Certificate to 
Mr. Jas. Hudson, gardener to Leopold de Roth¬ 
schild, Esq., Gunnersbury House, Acton ; Messrs. 
Geo. Bunyard & Co., Maidstone, Kent; and Messrs. 
H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, Kent, by all of whom 
it was exhibited. 
Kitcfyen Garden calendar. 
With the shortening of days we may soon expect a 
change in the weather, therefore, preparations should 
be made for covering tender vegetables in case of 
frost. On account of the long spell of dry weather 
the soil has become very parched, therefore, growth 
is more hardy and not so liable to be injured as when 
showery weather has prevailed for a considerable 
time, but a sudden change in the temperature may 
come at any time and find one unprepared. 
Peas that were sown in frames or on borders with 
a view of having lights placed over them, should not 
be left longer unprotected at night, though air should 
be freely admitted or mildew will soon make its 
appearance. Both soil and foliage should be 
moistened that a healthy growth may be promoted. 
Peas, as all gardeners should know, will not stand a 
close, damp atmosphere, but they delight in plenty of 
moisture, provided there is a free circulation of air. 
French Beans that were sown in frames ought 
also to be well looked after, for if we should have 
favourable weather during October fair crops may be 
gathered without the aid of fire-heat. A sowing 
should now be made in a pit where heat can be 
applied to succeed those grown in cold frames. By 
the time such sowings are in bloom the days will be 
short, therefore, do not overcrowd the plants at the 
commencement, and admit all the air possible in 
favourable weather. 
The lifting and storing of the root crop such as 
Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, etc. will soon need attention, 
though the longer these can remain in the open 
ground the better. When lifting choose a fine day 
that the soil may not cling to the roots. Carrots are 
best stored away in a cool shed, the cooler the better 
so long as severe frost is excluded, the object being 
to have the roots under cover when wanted, and to 
prevent them from making growth as long as 
possible. Beet may be stored in the same way. 
Parsnips are much sweeter when left in the ground 
till wanted for use, Put a stock should always be had 
in readiness in case of severe weather. Salsify and 
Scozonera may be stored in the same way as recom¬ 
mended for Carrots. 
Where not already done prepare the ground for 
transplanting spring Cabbage, as the sooner this is 
done the better. It may be necessary to water until 
the roots have taken hold of the soil, but this should 
be discontinued when rain falls. Where ground is 
limited a row of Lettuce may be sown or planted 
between the Cabbage, as the former will in no way 
interfere with the other till growth commences in 
spring. 
The earthing-up of early Celery will now need 
attention. In doiDg this care must be taken to pre¬ 
vent any of the soil from getting into the hearts of 
the plants. Where the soil is stiff and retentive a 
little sand placed in immediate contact with the leaf 
stalks is very beneficial. Do not use soil for earth¬ 
ing that contains a quantity of half-decayed manure, 
as this is a harbour for worms and slugs. A dusting 
of soot round the plants will usually keep these at 
bay. The late lots should not be earthed-up until there 
is danger of severe frost, for the longer the soil can 
be kept from the stems the more hardy will they be, 
and therefore better able to resist the frost should it 
be very severe later on .— Kitchen Gardener. 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove. 
At the time of writing the bright weather shows no 
signs of breaking up. The great heat is gone, and 
we have now to face cool nights, even although the 
days are still warm. The heat of the sun, even 
when it is husbanded as far as possible by shutting 
the house up early in the afternoon, will have to be 
supplemented by a fair amount of fire-heat. In this 
direction, however, a good deal of discretion is 
necessary, for to drive the fires hard when there is 
no necessity for it is worse than waste. 
Air should be given with freedom during the 
mornings, and even though the top ventilators are 
closed about 2 p.m., or 2.30 p.m., the bottom ones 
should remain open. The tissues of the plants are 
fairly hard now, and can stand with impunity a little 
exposure. As a rule, there is no need for the blinds 
after the commencement of October, except in the 
case ot Ferns which, if the bright weather lasts, 
must be shaded for another couple of weeks yet. 
Ordinary foliage and flowering plants are, however, 
well able to bear the sun now, and no fear of burn¬ 
ing need be entertained. The blinds should, there¬ 
fore, be taken down, dried, labelled, and put away 
for another year, except in cases where it is usual to 
employ them for protecting the house during frosty 
weather. Corners and angles of the house which 
have been painted over with Summer Cloud, 
whitening, or other shading preparation should be 
washed clean without delay. This is not a difficult 
matter if the syringe, or better still the garden- 
engine, and a good mop on a long, stout handle are 
requisitioned. 
Bougainvilleas. —The blooming season is now 
over, and the plants are maturing their growths. 
This may be hastened in some respects by cutting 
out a few of the shoots so that the light and air may 
get free play. Too much cutting, however, is to be 
avoided. Give no manurial stimulants, but only 
clear water, and even the supply of this may be cur¬ 
tailed to some extent. Flants in pots may be treated 
in the same way, but owing to their root-room being 
very limited they do not make such luxurious 
growth as the plants growing in borders, and hence 
there is no need for thinning of the growths now. 
Allamandas also should have all manures with¬ 
held from them. They are still producing a few 
flowers at the tips of the youngest shoots, and these 
must not be despised. Although Allamandas are 
slow in ripening up, it is not wise to cut off their 
water supply prematurely, or they suffer. 
Caladiums. —With very few exceptions these have 
all reached the limit of growth for the season. 
Once they pass this they become rather unsightly 
looking objects, and thus it will be well to take them 
all out of the stove, and put them in a warm pit by 
themselves, where they will be able to finish off 
gradually, and look as forlorn as they like. Keep 
the syringe well at work among them twice a day as 
long as there are any leaves to syringe. Caladiums 
do not like the severe drjing-off that is often given to 
them, and thus it should not be attempted. Cala¬ 
diums require to be kept in a fairly high temperature 
for the winter, and if a place can be found for them 
in the intermediate stove it will he found to suit them 
well. 
Greenhouse and Conservatory. 
Most of the summer occupants of the conservatory 
have reached the end of their tether for this season. 
Fuchsias that have gone out of flower may be at once 
removed to a corner ofthe frameyard, where they may 
stay until severe frost renders their removal to 
winter quarters necessary. Coleuses that have now 
put on a very leggy appearance may be thrown away 
after the cuttings have been taken off them. Celo- 
sias, although the plumes may continue bright and 
clear for some time yet, are damping off a good deal, 
and thus they have to go. Tuberous Begonias are, 
with very few exceptions, entirely past their best. 
They may be taken out, therefore, and consigned to 
a vacant cold frame to finish. If necessary, the 
stakes may be taken out of them, for as they will be 
stood nearly pot thick the growths will support each 
other. They will want very little water, but should 
be given plenty of air during fine weather. 
After this clearance a good deal of room will be 
available in the conservatory, but although it may 
not be possible to fill up with stuff that is in 
flower at present the earlier Chrysanthemums which 
have the buds well developed will come in well for 
places where fairly tall plants are required. Lilium 
speciosum album and L. s. rubrum which have been 
retarded by keeping them in a shady corner out-of- 
doors, come in admirably at this juncture, and the 
earliest Chrysanthemums such as Madame Des- 
granges, Geo. Wermig, Harvest Home, Flora, Mdlle. 
Marie Masse, and M. Gustave Grunerwald are also 
in full beauty. 
Clerodendron fallax. —There is no more con¬ 
spicuous subject in the conservatory at the present 
time than this Clerodendron. Its foliage in itself is 
handsome, and when surmounted by the large erect 
panicle of coral-red flowers, we have a plant that 
has few equals for decorative purposes. Seedlings 
always make the best plants, for they grow away 
more vigorously, and flower more freely than cut¬ 
tings. Specimens, formed of two or three-year-old 
plants, with a number of heads are only qualified 
successes, and the young, year-old seedlings have 
it every way. 
Hard-wooded Plants . — Ericas, Epacrises, 
Boronias, Azaleas, and other hard-wooded plants 
that have been out-of-doors for the last couple of 
months should now be taken in-doors without delay. 
Give the Ericas a light corner of the house where 
they will be sheltered from draughts, since it is only 
in such a position that they can hope to escape the 
scourge mildew. Azaleas will need to be well 
cleansed before they are taken into the house. 
Thrips have increased with wonderful rapidity 
during the dry weather, and they are very partial to 
Azaleas. The plants should be laid on their sides 
and syringed with a fairly strong solution of Nicotine 
Soap, washing this off subsequently with clear water 
vigorously applied. Growth is sound and well 
matured this year, and the plants are well set with 
buds so that we may look for a good crop of flowers 
both on those plants which are forced early, and on 
those that are allowed to come along a little later. 
Tree Carnations. —In order to do these properly 
a light and airy house is required. If it is furnished 
with a tiered stage, so much the better, for the 
plants are tten lifted near to the light, and the 
growth is shorter, jointed and sturdier. Clean the 
plants over carefully prior to bringing them in, re¬ 
moving all yellow leaves and moss from the surface 
soil, and washing the pots. Tie all the growths in 
neatly, for they are brittle and may easily be broken 
out in tbe shifting, unless they are previously 
secured. 
Zonal I elargoniums, that have been flowering 
all the summer under glass, may be cut back now 
and placed in cold frames to break into growth at 
their leisure. Plants which have been grown on 
expressly for winter flowering are now sturdy speci¬ 
mens, with very hard, short-jointed wood. A batch 
of plants may now be allowed to develop their flower 
buds so that they may be in bloom by the end of 
October. The rest of the plants may have their 
buds picked off for a few weeks longer, but they 
should be brought indoors within the course of the 
next week.— A. S. G. 
