104 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 15, 1898/ 
INTS FOR WMATEURS. 
The bulb season is now in full swing, and wherever 
one turns advertisements and announcements of 
bulbs for sale meet the eye. This peaceable inva¬ 
sion of the Dutchman is one of our most remarkable 
horticultural developments, and since the means of 
communication have been cheapened and improved, 
we find that each autumn tons of all sorts of bulbs 
are poured into our markets, and yet they are, or 
nearly all, disposed of. We might be inclined to 
wonder where all these bulbs go to did we not con¬ 
sider how indispensable they are for the decoration 
of our gardens in spring and of our conservatories 
and dwelling-rooms through the winter and spring. 
That everybody who can do so grows bulbs to some 
extent may be taken for granted. True, the 
stock may be an exceedingly modest one, and may 
range from the single pot of Hyacinths, Tulips and 
Crocuses right up to the store of the large private 
garden, where thousands are to found, or to the 
hundreds of thousands of the florist who grows 
them to supply him with cut flower. 
There are so many firms dealing in bulbs, and 
each of them issues a catalogue, so that the amateur 
is, as a rule, in a quandary to choose his merchant. 
Then again, the varieties offered are legion and the 
difficulty of choosing becomes even more pronounced. 
The amateur wades through the well-nigh intermin¬ 
able list of names of varieties, and generally succeeds 
in puzzling himself as to which are the best for him 
to have. 
The selections given under may be of some ser¬ 
vice to those who do not know what to buy. Those 
who have had a little experience have probably made 
up their own minds as to what they will have, and, 
after all, there is nothing like experience, for some 
varieties do better in some localities than in others, 
although, generally speaking, the sorts may be equal, 
both with regard to quality and price. Then again, 
colour is often a predominating factor in the choice. 
Some people like blues, others reds, or shades of 
rose, whilst others have a predilection for white 
flowers, and cannot get too many of thepi. These 
individual tastes have, therefore, to be taken into 
account, for to a man or a woman who likes a blue 
Hyacinth the flower is of more value than that of a 
red variety, even although the latter may be a hightr 
priced sort in the catalogue. 
HYACINTHS. 
Selecting the Bulbs.—Where the order is given 
to a local tradesman, and there is thus an opportu¬ 
nity of personally selecting the bulbs, should the 
purchaser so desire there are one or two facts that, 
as a rule, prove reliable guides to the selection of 
material. The most important point is soundness of 
the bulb combined with weight. Size is of second¬ 
ary importance. Ad things being equal, of course, 
the large bulb will throw a larger flower than the 
smaller bulb of the same variety ; but usually all 
things are not equal, for the large bulb is not infre¬ 
quently light in proportion to its size as compared 
with the smaller one, owing to growth having been 
more rapid, and the scales being correspondingly 
soft and succulent Choose a medium-sized bulb, 
therefore. Shape again is not a reliable index to the 
quality of a bulb. In this respect gardeners often 
make a mistake, for they display a tendency to 
choose the pretty shaped bulb in preference to the 
rougher looking one. One of our largest and most 
reliable importers in this country makes it a point 
to select the rougher lcok ng bulbs for his own grow¬ 
ing, and he has never had any reaion to doubt the 
wisdom of this proceeding. Again, some of the 
most reliable varieties, such, for instance, as the 
single red Lord Macaulay, one of the very best 
sorts in cultivation, and Amy, another single red 
sort, have very often rough looking bulbs, more often, 
indeed, than any other varieties with which we are 
acquainted, and yet they always seem to do well. 
The foregoing goes to prove that good shape in the 
bulb is not necessary to produce good flower, if in¬ 
deed, roughness is not actually associated with ex¬ 
cellence of bloom. Another point that ought not 
to be lost sight of is depth of bulb, i.e., depth from 
crown to base. A good bulb should be deep in pro¬ 
portion to its width, although even this rule has 
some exceptions. The crown, too, of the bulb 
should be firm. This may be tested by means of 
pressure with the fingers on the spot indicated. If 
these hints are borne in mind by my amateur readers 
when they are picking out their bulbs they will not 
go very far wrong. 
Those who feel that they cannot trust themselves 
to do the choosing will do well to send in their order 
to a reliable firm. They will then be not only 
served with promptitude and despatch, which are 
matters of importance,seeing that the season is wear¬ 
ing along, but they may rely upon being served with 
a good article, that is, of course, if they pay a 
respectable price. 
Pot Culture.—All varieties of Hyacinths are 
amenable to cultivation in pots and if we hear of in¬ 
stances where the same variety has failed when 
grown in pots in the usual fashion but has done well 
when grown in glasses, it may be taken for granted 
that something has been wrong in the treatment, for 
Hyacinths, just as other things, have their likes and 
dislikes. 
The use to which it is intended the plants and 
flowers should be put is the next item for considera¬ 
tion. If they are to be for ordinary everyday use, 
such as the decoration of the conservatory, the 
dwelling room, or the flower garden, an ordinary 
article at a fair price will be all that is necessary. If 
on the other hand the amateur is desirous of trying 
his fortune at the local show, a higher rate must be 
paid. If only a few bulbs are bought those few 
should be of the best quality, for it is useless trying 
to win a first prize with second-rate bulbs, that is, if 
the competition be at all keen. 
First of all let us look at what would be a selection 
of cheap, but good, varieties that may be grown 
easily and flower well, but are not usually sufficiently 
large for the exhibition table. Baroness Von Tuyll 
is a capital white; Robert Steiger, crimson-red; 
Amy, deep carmine, with a large truss, occasionally 
to be seen at exhibitions ; Charles Dickens, light 
blue, also having a large truss,and Baron Von Tuyll, 
deep, almost violet-blue. 
Many, perhaps most, of my readers, however, will 
want a little more variety than is given by these five 
varieties. La Pucelle d’Orleans, white ; Gigantea, 
delicate rose, large truss ; Norma, bright rose, with 
exceptionally large individual flowers, but an under¬ 
sized spike ; Marie, dark blue purple with lighter 
stripe ; La Peyrouse, light blue ; General Pelissier, 
deep crimson, and King of the Yellows, fine deep 
yellow. 
Yellow varieties are rather dearer than the other 
sections, but although the varieties Anna Carolina, 
L’ Interessant and Sonora are all cheaper than is 
King of the Yellows, yet the extra money that will 
have to be paid for the last-named variety will be 
fully repaid by its much greater excellence. 
Blue varieties used to be the cheapest and white 
the dearest, red occupying a medium position with 
regard to price. Now, however, the yellows are the 
dearest section, and they are also the most backward, 
for we have not long had, comparatively speaking, a 
really good yellow sort. 
S me of the varieties we have mentioned may be 
used for exhibition, but only in cases where extra 
gocd bulbs are obtained and high class culture is 
given. The following will be found a good selection 
for exhibition purposes:—• 
La Grandesse.—This is probably the best white 
variety obtainable, both bells and spike being very 
large. Mont Blanc is also a good white, but the 
bulbs are often of rather poor quality. L’Innocence, a 
grand pure white form,is second only in point of merit 
to La Grandesse. Paix de l'Europe and Madame 
Van Der Hoop are other good white sorts, so that it 
will be seen there are a good many sorts from which 
to pick and choose. The pink form of Charles 
Dickens, of which we have already noted a blue form, 
is also good. Lord Macaulay is an old favourite, but 
although it often turns out a rather coarse-looking 
bulb it is a capital doer. The colours are carmine 
and rcse, and the flower is a very attractive one. 
Roi des Beiges is deep scarlet, and one of the finest 
of its colour. It throws a huge spike. Vuurbaak is 
one of the very best of the dark reds, being distinct 
on account of its handsomely shaped spike. Amongst 
light blue varieties Lord Derby is a great exhibition 
favourite, andean be singled out any where by reason 
of the flatness of the top of the spike. Czar Peter is 
light porcelain blue, a very charming shade of colour. 
For a medium blue there is nothing to beat King of 
the Blues, which really deserves its kingly name. 
Leonidas is another medium blue of great merit. 
Amongst dark, black-blues one cannot do better than 
try The Sultan, which also displays the tendency to 
produce flat-topped spikes that we have commented 
upon in the case of Lord Derby. King of the Blacks, 
another very dark variety is a great favourite with 
many people. In the yellow flowered section there 
is not so much variety as in the blues, and reds and 
whites. In addition to King of the Yellows both Ida 
and Obelisque are well worth a trial. They are both 
comparatively new. 
All the foregoing are single-flowered sorts, which 
are much better than doubles for ordinary purposes, 
as well as exhibition, as they not only open their 
blooms better, and do not damp off so quickly, but 
they are less heavy and more elegant in appearance. 
Thus the flowers are of greater value for cutting. It 
is not surprising, therefore, to find that the single 
ones are in much greater demand than the doubles 
and semi doubles; and probably for every double 
that is sold, seventy or eighty singles are disposed of. 
A few good doubles are Noble par Merite, deep 
rose; Prince Albert, dark purple-blue; La Tour 
d’Auvergne or Florence Nightingale, as it is called In 
some catalogues ; Duke of Wellington, pink ; Bloks- 
berg, light blue; and Victory, dark purple. A few 
bulbs of these will make a little change from the 
singles, and at least they are imposing, if somewhat 
heavy dowers.— Rex. 
-+- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answets 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desite 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“ Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Seeds of Frenoh Marigolds.— L. M. : The best 
way to proceed in saving seeds of French Marigolds 
is to mark the best plants and the best blooms, 
allowing the latter to remain on the plant for a week 
or two after they have been in full bloom. To make 
sure there is anything formed in the seeds, pick one 
or two open with a pin or knife to determine whether 
Cr not there is an embryo or kernel inside the black 
skin. If the embryo is formed gather the heads with 
stalks attached. With a scissors or sharp knife re¬ 
move all the showy part of the flower. This is 
merely to prevent damping. Then tie the heads 
together in bunches, and hang them up, head down¬ 
wards, in a dry vinery, where they will gradually dry. 
They may hang till spring, or be rubbed out and 
put in paper bags as soon as they are perfectly dry, 
;i and put away in a dry place till sowing time. 
Nectarine Victoria splitting.— W.P.: The variety 
Victoria is very liable to split its fruit, and we have 
seen a number of instances this season where this 
splitting has had disastrous results upon the crop. 
It is usually caused by neglecting to give a sufficient 
supply of water. If once the soil in pot or border is 
allowed to become dry, particularly at any time 
during the second swelling, the fruit is almost sure 
to split when water is given again. Probably this 
has been the immediate cause in your case, and you 
should keep a more careful watch upon the trees in 
future. 
Old Lapageria— Geo. Trehearne: We question very 
much whether it is any good trying to do anytffrng 
with the old Lapageria of which you speak. From 
your description the plant must be a veritable 
patriarch, and must, moreover, have been sadly 
neglected. Thrips and mealy bug are very fond of 
the Lapageria, and it is, no doubt, owing in a great 
measure to their agency that there are so few leaves 
upon the stems. The only possible thing that you 
can do is to turn the plant out of the sour, sodden 
soil in which it now is (you will probably find no 
healthy roots at all) and put it into a clean pot and 
fresh soil. For the latter, peat with silver sand and 
a sprinkling of charcoal will do. It is not a good 
time now to make the shift, and it will be well to let 
the job stand over until the spring, when, if the plant 
is alive, you may see to it. Meanwhile do not give 
much water and see that the drainage is clear. You 
would most likely fiud it a more satisfactory plan to 
throw the old plant away and buy a new one. 
Potting Carnation Layers.— C. C .: Some time 
about the middle of the month will be the best to pot 
up the layers, which should be well rooted by then. 
Even if they have not actual roots, however, they 
