218 
DecemberJS, 1898. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM HON. W. F. D. 
SMITH. 
Many grand additions to the crimson Japanese 
Chrysanthemums have been made from year to year, 
and during the past month or six weeks more than 
one magnificent variety of this colour have turned up, 
beating all previous records for size, intensity of 
colour, build of bloom, and handsome appearance 
generally. In this position we place the magnificent 
crimson Japanese variety Hon. W. F. D. Smith, 
which was raised by Mr. H. Perkins, gardener to the 
Hon. W. F. D. Smith, M.P., Greenlands, Henley-on- 
Thames, and after whom it has been named. The 
bloom is of large size, as the accompanying illustra¬ 
tion (p. 217) will show, and which was photographed 
before it was fully developed, because it was required 
for the N.C.S. show, which opened on November 8th. 
The outer florets are much the longest, and assume 
a gracefully recurved direction, thus adding greatly 
to the depth of the flower ; the inner ones are much 
shorter, and so disposed, when the bloom is at its 
best, as to show the velvety crimson upper surface 
to the best advantage. The reverse of the florets is 
pale fawn, lightly washed or tinted with crimson. 
The illustration shows the character of a bloom from 
the first crown bud ; but the flowers from the second 
crown are much more refined, being devoid of the 
quilled florets which appear in the flower of the first 
crown, and consequently of a richer colour. The 
terminal bud gives rise to flowers that should be of 
great decorative value for many purposes in the cut 
state, as specimens before us show. We believe 
there is a great future before the variety, and next 
year should well test its capabilities. Those who 
are best acquainted with it believe it to be the finest 
crimson yet raised. It appeared to great advantage 
in one of the winning stands at the November show 
of the N.C.S. for twenty-four Japanese blooms, the 
exhibit being third amongst sixteen competitors. 
The stock of this variety has been secured, and will 
be put into commerce, by Mr. W. Wells, Earlswood 
Nurseries, Earlswood, Redhill, Surrey. 
ORCHARD HOUSE TREES.* 
Very few subjects in a large or small garden are of 
more interest than fruit culture ; and it is marvellous 
how successful many men are who have had practi¬ 
cally no training, but have taken the cultivation of 
fruit up as a hobby or form of amusement. Now, 
while this is true in hundreds or possibly thousands 
of instances with hardy fruit, and even in the 
growth of Peaches, Nectarines or Vines, there are 
some remarkable cases of men who have not been 
trained as professional gardeners who have produced 
crops equal to those of the best growers, by means of 
dogged energy, attention, and a determined study of 
the trees' requirements. If we turn to fruit culture 
in orchard houses, however, it is very difficult indeed 
to find an amateur who really is capable of growing 
good fruit either on pot trees or trees planted out. 
In the first place, to grow trees and fruit well in 
such structures the house must be properly adapted 
for the purpose, viz., light, air-tight as far as 
possible, in a glass structure, and yet with plenty of 
ventilation when requisite. Many a gardener has 
very great difficulties to contend with in the matter 
of hothouses, and it speaks volumes for his skill that 
he is able to accomplish so much in many cases 
with the wretched accommodation at his command. 
Some of the finest houses for pot fruit trees that I 
have ever seen are close to us here, i.e., at Gnnners- 
bury House. The houses mentioned, as some of you 
know, are large, light, well heated, and admirably 
fitted up for ventilation. Again, at Messrs. Rivers 
& Sons’, at Sawbridgeworth, are some well appointed 
structures, and there may be seen Peach and 
Nectarine trees that are models of what they should 
be. At both the establishments named not only are 
stone fruits of nearly all kinds and in many varieties 
magnificently grown, but Pears, Apples, Figs, etc., 
receive attention, as frequently shown at the R.H S. 
shows and meetings, particulars of which I will 
mention later. 
Turning to Peaches and Nectarines first, as grown 
in the orchard house, we may divide them into two 
sections—those in pots and those planted out. 
Dealing with the pot trees first, it is of much impor- 
* A paper read before the members of the Chiswick Gar¬ 
deners’ Mutual Improvement Association, on October 27th, by 
Mr. S. T. Wright, Royal Horticultural Society’s Gardens, 
Chiswick. 
tance that a good start should be made by procuring 
well-grown trees from a well-known and reliable 
source, that are true to name. I recollect once pur¬ 
chasing about a score trees offered at a rather low 
price. The trees should have been Early Alexander 
and Waterloo Peaches, but unfortunately there was 
not one tree true to name, and several proved to be 
Nectarines. 
So much for cheap trees. Mistakes will occur, 
even with the greatest care, but it is very awkward, 
and sometime unpleasant, for a gardener to grow for 
a year or two Peaches for early forcing, and then to 
find they are not what he wanted at all, and totally 
unsuited for the purpose for which they were in¬ 
tended. Really good trees, true to name, are the 
cheapest in the long run, and always give the most 
satisfaction, even when a rather higher price is paid 
for them. 
In potting Peaches and Nectarines, or any 
stone fruit, I like to get the operation performed in 
the autumn, just before the leaves have all fallen, or 
as soon after as circumstances will permit. I admit 
that excellent results are obtained by potting at 
different periods while the trees are at rest, including 
some just before the trees break into growth ; but I 
think by potting in the autumn, as suggested, the 
trees become semi-established in the new compost,and 
when forcing commences they start more vigorously 
into growth, with a smaller percentage of bud-casting 
than if potted later. I would here remark that I am 
no believer in very large pots ; those of 10 in. to 12 
in. in diameter at the top, are plenty large enough 
for ordinary pot trees ; in fact, I think I could not do 
better to emphasise this than to call your attention to 
the magnificent trees and fruit exhibited at the 
Temple Show annually. In no instance have I seen 
a pot exceeding 12 in. in diameter, and if I am not 
mistaken, Mr. Camp, of Messrs. Rivers’ firm, in¬ 
formed me that some of the trees were twenty years 
old. 
Good drainage is, of course, very important, and 
for this purpose nothing will surpass inverted oyster 
shells. The roots of the trees appear to enjoy this 
drainage more than anything else, if one may judge 
by the mass of roots formed about the shells. The 
compost should be good, fibrous loam, neither too 
heavy nor too light, and with a fair proportion of the 
loose or non fibrous soil rejected. A little well de¬ 
cayed cow manure, and a 6-in. potful of fine bone 
meal to each barrow-load of compost is advisable. 
The soil should be made thoroughly firm about the 
roots when potting, as a loose soil may induce greater 
growth, but which is seldom fruitful. What should 
be aimed at is short-jointed, sturdy wood, well 
studded with fruit buds, and this is obtained by 
filling the pots with plenty of fibrous roots. 
The question of bud-casting is one of much inter¬ 
est, and is brought about by a great variety of causes, 
as, for instance, the plants being too dry or too wet 
at the roots, unsuitable soil, bad drainage, checks in 
some form, and in the case of orchard trees forced 
early, whether in pots or planted out, a too sudden 
excitement when started, i.e., giving too much heat 
at first. Some varieties are notorious in this last 
respect, but even those that are not prone to this 
defect will cast their buds if huriied in their early 
stages. It is much safer and better to go slowly un¬ 
til the fruit is set; then more heat may with safety 
be applied. There are other causes of bud-dropping, 
such as under- and prematurely-ripened wood, and I 
am beginning to think that the London fogs have 
something to do with trees casting their buds, as 
some of the trees planted outside here cast their 
buds to some extent last spring. A great deal more 
might be said on this vexed subject, but time will 
not permit more now, and, therefore, I must go on to 
the management of the trees when they have com¬ 
menced to grow. 
Immediately the fruit is well set, the thinning of 
it should take place, just removing all those fruits 
that are badly placed for sunlight and swelling, and 
afterwards thinning out those that are favourably 
situated on the trees. A crop of two to three dozen 
fruits on a tree, in the size of pots I have mentioned, 
will be ample. If more are left it will be at the ex¬ 
pense of size, quality and future welfare of the tree. 
It may, perhaps, be admitted that a heavier crop 
can be carried by high feeding, but we must remem¬ 
ber that plants can only take up a limited amount of 
food, and anything over and above that limit is 
either wasted or injurious. It is just the same as in 
animal life; if we made gluttons of ourselves in 
trying to eat or drink more than is good for us we 
should have to pay the penalty sooner or later. 
Personally, I believe in giving a little weak liquid 
manure just before the buds commence to expand, 
as the flowering period is a very exhausting one to 
the trees, and following this up every week until the 
the fruit is beginning to swell freely, when a little 
more manure in a liquid or solid form may be 
applied with advantage. The feeding material 
should be varied as much as possible by giving liquid 
manure from the cattle in a diluted form one week, 
and some of the many chemical manures on the 
market another week. The plants have thus a change 
of diet, which they fully appreciate. 
Disbudding I will only briefly allude to by saying 
that this should be done gradually, removing the 
worst placed surplus buds first, such as those point¬ 
ing inwards, and so arranging that those buds left 
will furnish the tree with a good supply of young 
wood, evenly distributed over the whole area, and 
with a due regard to the shape of the tree. 
When the shoots have made about 6 in. or so of 
growth, the points may be pinched out with the 
finger and thumb; this will check the strong ones, 
and throw vigour into the weak ones, making the 
growth more uniform. A secondary growth will be 
made if the plants are in good health, but, as a rule, 
this will not require stopping again if the trees are 
bearing a good crop. Possibly one or two shoots 
may rush into strong growth. If so, these ought to 
be checked by pinching again. In most gardens the 
plants are placed outside after fruiting, to make 
room for other crops, such as Tomatos and Melons, 
but if the room is not absolutely required for other 
things, it is better not to turn out the trees, as the 
wood ripens better, and the buds become more fully 
matured than when the trees are out in the open. 
Again, it is quite possible that a rainy season may 
occur, and the roots thus become sodden, or through 
extraordinarily drying influences they are liable to 
get dry and suffer in that respect; but when under 
glass these influences are minimised. 
Thorough syringing daily will keep red spider 
down and the foliage quite clean and healthy, thus 
ensuring stout, vigorous buds for the following 
season. Sometimes Black Aphis is a scourge, but 
by means of the vapourising insecticides now pro¬ 
curable this enemy may easily be ousted. 
Turning to varieties for forcing we have had some 
grand acquisitions introduced of late years that have 
proved of immense service for early forcing in pots 
or planted out. One of the best Peaches for this 
purpose is Amsden June. The fruit is of moderate 
size, nice colour, and very fair flavour for an 
American variety, and I like it much better than 
Alexander, which is a little longer and of finer appear¬ 
ance. Again, Alexander is so uncertain, as it is one 
of the worst to cast its buds. Waterloo is a rather 
better one in that respect, and of fair flavour. An 
excellent variety, not very much known, is Dagmar. 
This has small flowers that always set well, and re¬ 
quire liberal thinning. The fruit is of good size, 
splendid colour, and rich flavour. Other sterling 
varieties for early forcing are Rivers’ Early York, 
Hale’s Early, Dr. Hogg, Dymond, Acton Scott 
(rather small, but excellent), and a little latter Crim¬ 
son Galande, and the popular Royal George. If 
very late Peaches are wanted we have Late Devonian, 
a new and excellent late variety that received an 
A.M. from the R.H.S., at the end of September 
some years ago ; also Bellegarde, Barrington, DesSe 
Tardive (a fine variety), Gladstone, Salway, Late 
Admirable, and the Nectarine Peach. 
Amongst Nectarines we have in Cardinal and 
Early River's, two of the most valuable early varie¬ 
ties, and almost indispensable where early fruit is re¬ 
quired. The former is only suitable for inside cul¬ 
ture. Following these are Lord Napier, Darwin, 
Advance, Rivers’ Early Orange, and Elruge. Later 
varieties are Dryden, Byron, Humboldt, Spenser, 
and Pine Apple. 
Not only are all the varieties named, both Peaches 
and Nectarines, adapted for pot culture, but they 
are equally suited for planting out in the orchard 
house, and it is astonishing the quantity of good 
fruit that can be grown in a light but cheap struc¬ 
ture for a comparatively small outlay. In the case 
of trees planted out I do not believe in a great root 
run, as they have a habit of making too much 
wood. At Eastnor Castle, a place famous for its 
Peaches and Nectarines, I saw some years ago that 
the trees were planted in mounds of soil, so that if 
